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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-13-2014 11:53 AM
spieg I polished up all of the Antirock arms with some Mothers Billet Polish today. Definitely glad I went with the aluminum arms. Theyre just so purdy.
04-03-2014 06:02 PM
spieg
Quote:
Originally Posted by PTFBrian View Post
Man that looks great
Thanks PTFBrian!
04-02-2014 08:58 PM
PTFBrian Man that looks great
04-02-2014 04:18 PM
spieg
Quote:
Originally Posted by n3tfury View Post
Great build, sir.
Thanks n3tfury!
04-02-2014 07:45 AM
n3tfury Great build, sir.
03-31-2014 09:47 PM
spieg The 4.88's have dropped my mileage a tad. Im averaging about 15.5 on the 4.88's vs about 17 on the 4.10's. That said, the 4.88's seem way more driveable. Im turning around 2700 on the highway at 70 and it can hold OD without any issues unless there is a decent hill or strong head wind. With the 4.10's it didnt take much of a breeze at all to kick it out of OD. Around town the 4.88's seem much happier, too. In spite of the drop in mileage, this was a great upgrade.

As for the metalcloak springs, the initial feel on them was that they were very stiff, even a little harsh. Im happy to say that after a couple of days, theyve mellowed out. It feels to me like they ride a tad higher than the AEV's. They are definitely a more sporty feel on the road, but also are softer on the small bumps. All around they feel more stable and the sportier feel is welcome to me. The AEV's feel more plush and floaty but small bumps like highway expansion joints, speed bumps, end of the driveway, etc were harsher with the AEV's as well. Im really liking the metalcloaks more and more each day.

The rear antirock isnt as pronounced as the front and at this point im happy with how the front and rear antirocks feel together. I dont think ill have to worry about sway on or off road again unless I end up with a CRC link in the rear and that changes something dramatically.

The hydro assist has taken a little getting used to. Its a little more sensitive on the highway than before and there is a bit of lag off idle. The install ended up using a few short 90's to get the hose routed properly and I think I may end up swapping them for some full flow 90s to see if that helps. Im hoping to improve the low rpm perfomance a bit. Im also making contact with the tie rod at full passenger lock, so there may need to be some adjustments made.

Either the springs, the antirocks, the hydro assist, or the combination of all have resulted in a dramatic improvement in handling in high winds on the highway. In the past a strong side wind would cause some body roll and push my jk pretty good. Today we had some pretty high winds and while I could feel the wind, the jeep barely budged. Its the most stable its ever felt in that scenario. Much better than stock even.
03-30-2014 08:02 PM
spieg Finally made some significant progress!

Over the last week or so the following has been completed:
  • AEV springs swapped out for the Metalcloaks
  • Front antirock bar swapped out from .800 to .850
  • Rear antirock installed
  • 4.88's installed
  • RCV's installed
  • Reid knuckles installed
  • Rear 1350 driveshaft installed
  • Hydro assist installed
The snorkel had to be temporarily disconnected until a replacement airbox can be rigged up. The stock airbox had to go to make room for the PSC reservoir. The guys at America's Most Wanted 4x4 hooked me up with a sweet bracket to keep it in place. More pics and impressions to come.
03-17-2014 09:15 PM
spieg Feel free to PM about the snorkel or just post here in the thread so everyone can learn from it. The park with the tires is Rocks and Valleys. Its in Harrison and well worth the trip. Rocks and Valleys - Welcome
03-17-2014 04:51 PM
gobluewayoflife where is the offraod park with the tires in the ground? i am in Lewiston up north half the year and would love to check that place out. \\thanks
03-17-2014 04:48 PM
gobluewayoflife
RR snorkel

Quote:
Originally Posted by spieg View Post
A couple of changes to the build have come up. Based on the 12 week lead time for Shrock Works sliders, I think im going to go with the White Knuckle sliders instead. They look pretty similar and only have a 3 week lead time. Ive also settled on just doing the rockhard engine and tranny skid for now instead of a full system. I dont think ill really need that much added protection on the bottom for the type of wheeling ive got planned. Hoping my Zeon 10-s comes in before the jeeps shake down run at Silver Lake next weekend!

Got the River Raider expedition snorkel all mounted up. I still have to connect everything under the hood for it before its functional. Im still waiting for some silicone to cure on the airbox before its ready to be finished off. I opted not to use the battery relocation kit for now and the hose still seems to fit and make its bends ok.

I am looking at the same snorkel .. I may PM you for some words of wisdom when it comes install time.

nice looking build
03-17-2014 05:44 AM
spieg
Quote:
Originally Posted by raythom3 View Post
I have been thinking about the Ace Pro Series Rear Bumper as well. In order to get the LED's installed will the bumper have to come off to get them in when you decide to install them.
Yea, the bumper will have to come back off. The led's mount inside the bumper and with the mounts they are too wide and tall to fit in through the holes. I dont have any major complaints with the bumper other than its weight. If I were in the market right now, id probably go with JCR. Similar design, almost half the weight since they use 3/16 instead of 1/4.
03-16-2014 09:51 PM
raythom3 I have been thinking about the Ace Pro Series Rear Bumper as well. In order to get the LED's installed will the bumper have to come off to get them in when you decide to install them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by spieg View Post
Got the 37's mounted today, they fill the wheel wells a little better than the 35's did. Im thinking maybe I shouldve gone 38's though... I had to toss the stock bumper on for now until the stubby gets back from powder coat. I ended up putting wheel spacers on but im not sure I really needed to. Once I have a chance to get to a ramp or fork lift and stretch it out, ill see how it looks flexed out.

The other day I popped the top off my intake box to look at my air filter and under the air filter was about 2" of water. In the stock setup that wouldnt be such a concern because the engine would still have to draw it up through the filter. With the river raider setup, the engine side intake gets relocated to the bottom of the airbox and I have to imagine ive fed the engine some amount of water. All I can figure is that the snorkel has been sucking in snow throughout the winter, the snow settles on the air filter, melts and drips through filling up the airbox that I sealed. Needless to say, im working on a new intake box design to solve this issue as well as make room for the PSC steering install.
03-16-2014 08:21 PM
spieg Im sure it still makes contact at full stuff. I havent really changed anything related to that yet. This coming weekend there should be a lot of progress including the Metalcloak springs. Im going to try to push the front axle back a little bit if possible and hopefully that combination will resolve it. If not, I may just ditch the sector shaft brace since the hydro assist should negate the need for it for the most part anyway. Im a lot more concerned about the tires contacting things at this point.
03-16-2014 08:08 PM
Seeuoffroad Did you get the spring to stop rubbing the sector shaft brace? If so what did you do?
03-16-2014 06:12 PM
spieg I think im officially over winter. Id really like some nicer weather to work on my jeep. Despite the frigid weather, I sold my midwidth and installed my shorty bumper this weekend. My brother in law did a great job filling the seam on the bumper and blending it in. This is how the LOD's should come if they arent going to leave the gap open in my opinion.
03-10-2014 10:17 PM
spieg Yea, those are the 37's. Thanks! The front is sitting a little high right now since there isnt any weight on it. Once I toss the stubby and winch on, thatll add 150lbs or so and should lower the front a tad. I need to remember to take some measurements before swapping out the AEV springs for the Metalcloaks, too, to see if there is much difference in lift height between the two.
03-10-2014 09:07 PM
Seeuoffroad If this pic is of the 37's I think it looks GREAT! Perfect! It looks like you got more than 3 1/2 inches of lift out of your 3 1/2 inch lift.
03-09-2014 02:00 PM
spieg Got the 37's mounted today, they fill the wheel wells a little better than the 35's did. Im thinking maybe I shouldve gone 38's though... I had to toss the stock bumper on for now until the stubby gets back from powder coat. I ended up putting wheel spacers on but im not sure I really needed to. Once I have a chance to get to a ramp or fork lift and stretch it out, ill see how it looks flexed out.

The other day I popped the top off my intake box to look at my air filter and under the air filter was about 2" of water. In the stock setup that wouldnt be such a concern because the engine would still have to draw it up through the filter. With the river raider setup, the engine side intake gets relocated to the bottom of the airbox and I have to imagine ive fed the engine some amount of water. All I can figure is that the snorkel has been sucking in snow throughout the winter, the snow settles on the air filter, melts and drips through filling up the airbox that I sealed. Needless to say, im working on a new intake box design to solve this issue as well as make room for the PSC steering install.
03-02-2014 12:44 PM
lampatmyfeet So glad to hear about the service you are getting with AEV. I have their 2.5" lift on my JK and settled on that product after much research. You are confirming what I previously read and further validating my decision. By the way, love your build and thanks for all the detail.
03-02-2014 11:35 AM
spieg I finally got my LOD shorty after a bit of a shipping fiasco (it went from Indiana, to Illinois, to Texas, to Ohio, back to Texas, back to Ohio, to Michigan). Im not sure if all of the shorty's are coming this way or not, but the top seam above the fairlead now has three gobs of weld. Ive looked at dozens of pics of this bumper and never seen this on any of them, so im not sure what the deal is. Im having my brother in law fill in the seam with weld and grind it down to try to clean it up a little bit.
03-02-2014 11:34 AM
spieg Put in a little work on the jeep this weekend. Shortly after putting on the AEV lift a year ago, I noticed one of the dust caps had come loose on the rear passenger side shock. For a few weeks I would just stuff the dust cap back into the shock body and it would stay there for a day or two. I reached out to AEV at the time, and they said if it got to be an annoyance they would take care of it. It didnt really bother me so I didnt really worry too much about it. A few weeks ago that shock started squeaking really bad. I hate squeaks. I got back in touch with AEV and after exchanging a couple of emails they said they would send me a new shock to replace it with. Since I have about 20,000 miles on the other shocks, I asked if I could buy another rear shock so that I could just replace both rears at the same time. To my surprise, they offered to just ship me two shocks and asked I ship mine back to them. When I removed the rear passenger side upper shock bolts, the whole body instantly fell down the shaft in a heap. So basically, for the last however long, ive only had one rear shock. If anything like this happens again, ill be switching shocks sooner rather than later (probably to Kings since Metalcloak blew me off on the 6paks). Other than some extra body roll and choppiness in curves, which I had mainly attributed to swapping out the stock swaybar with antirock, I hadnt even noticed it while driving. Needless to say, the jeep handles a lot better with four shocks than with three. And the body roll has been greatly improved. I may still swap out the antirock to the stiffer bar, I havent decided for sure yet.
02-18-2014 06:33 PM
BB1857 Yeah my 37s rub the control arms so I went with wheel spacers as well.
02-18-2014 06:15 PM
Seeuoffroad An inch could make all the difference. Also unless your set on a certain tire some 12.50 run a little wider than others. I really like Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ's but if you put a tape measure on them and include the heavy side lugs they are fairly wide and can rub.
02-18-2014 05:27 PM
spieg Thanks for the feedback! Maybe I wont rub the control arms with the 37's after all...
02-18-2014 02:22 PM
Seeuoffroad Yes I went from 35" to 37" a few months ago. I did the tires first knowing I would not be wheeling anytime soon and have another full time vehicle. I guess you could say I started in reverse 37" first to see what I thought I would need. My 37" don't rub for every day street driving but if I disconnected and was wheeling I would have issues. The reason I went 4" lift is I wanted to make sure I hit the 3 1/2 mark or higher because I'm setting everything for high steer. I've heard the handling can be just as bad if you set up for high steer but only get 2 1/2 to 3 inches of lift so I wanted to hit or break the 3 1/2 inch lift mark. I definitely will not have a stuffed tire look if I get 4" of actual lift or more but that's ok I like the look of extra clearance. I also have extra weight Rockhard 4x4 front and rear bumpers all of his skid plates warn VR10,000S winch and a 37" spare. I think i hit 3 3/4" of actual lift or a little more. I'm hopping no wheel spacers but won't know for sure until done and disconnected.
02-18-2014 02:07 PM
Seeuoffroad Yes I went from 35" to 37" a couple months ago
02-18-2014 10:47 AM
spieg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeuoffroad View Post
Thanks. The Reason I ask is our builds will be almost identical. 2012 JKU Right now I am running a 3" lift only getting 2" of lift with a beefed up D30. My Prorock 44 will ship on the 20th. Once I get that here is where I'll be.
2012 JKU 4" Teraflex lift all 8 CA's, Front ProRock 44 ultimate extreme with 35/32 RCV shafts, 4.88 R&P, ARB locker, synergy TB, flipped drag link, tie rod, TB frame brace, sector brace, hi mount steering stabilizer, Reid racing knuckles. Front and rear 1310 JE Reel drive shafts, Rear G2 gold chromoly shafts, 4.88 R&P, ARB locker, Teraflex rear TB and bracket.
Buschwaker flat flares, 37" GY MTR's there's more but that's the major components. The reason I ask is I'm trying to head off the unforeseeable. Not sure that's possible.
Sounds like a nice build you have going! Are you already running the 37's? If so, do you rub on your front lower control arms at full lock?

The pintlers aren't all that great in that regard. They work fine for a 35x12.50 but a 35x13.50 and I'm guessing a 37x12.50 will be tight. Eventually I'll probably swap to beadlocks with a better offset and eliminate the spacers.
02-18-2014 08:16 AM
Seeuoffroad Thanks. The Reason I ask is our builds will be almost identical. 2012 JKU Right now I am running a 3" lift only getting 2" of lift with a beefed up D30. My Prorock 44 will ship on the 20th. Once I get that here is where I'll be.
2012 JKU 4" Teraflex lift all 8 CA's, Front ProRock 44 ultimate extreme with 35/32 RCV shafts, 4.88 R&P, ARB locker, synergy TB, flipped drag link, tie rod, TB frame brace, sector brace, hi mount steering stabilizer, Reid racing knuckles. Front and rear 1310 JE Reel drive shafts, Rear G2 gold chromoly shafts, 4.88 R&P, ARB locker, Teraflex rear TB and bracket.
Buschwaker flat flares, 37" GY MTR's there's more but that's the major components. The reason I ask is I'm trying to head off the unforeseeable. Not sure that's possible.
02-18-2014 07:04 AM
spieg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeuoffroad View Post
If I can ask. Why the spacers?
I'm not sure the 37's will clear the control arms in the front. My 35's already rub (although they are 13.5 wide vs 12.5 on the 37's). If the 37's don't rub I won't run spacers. I'm just assuming that they will rub.
02-17-2014 09:23 PM
Seeuoffroad
Quote:
Originally Posted by spieg View Post
After driving on the antirock for a few days and bouncing a couple of questions off Currie, ive decided to go from the .750 thick bar to the .850. I like the handling characteristics for the most part, but initial turn in and any kind of aggressive/emergency maneuvers are a little dicey. Not so bad that I feel like im going to crash or anything, just a little looser than I would prefer. I think the .850 will be a better fit for my pig of JK and desired handling. I forgot to include adding the synergy rear 3" bump stops in my last update. Surprisingly enough, they actually have less clearance on the sway bar links than the AEV bumps stops that I had shaved down a bit do. I think they sit further back on the pads or something. If I was going to continue running the rear sway bar and not switch to the antirock, they wouldnt work for me. Installed the putco dome lights a few days ago. Not a massive difference, but its noticeable and not too bad. Prep'ing for the next big phase in about a month. Working with a shop to knock out everything at once if possible:[*]Swap out the AEV springs for the Metalcloaks[*]Swap the front antirock bar[*]Rear antirock[*]Yukon 4.88's[*]Front RCV's[*]Reid Knuckles[*]Tom woods rear shaft (1350)[*]PSC hydro assist[*]LOD signature stubby front[*]JW Speaker 8145 fogs[*]Spidertrax 1.5" spacers[*]37x12.50 MTR/K's
If I can ask. Why the spacers?
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