|Today 04:11 PM|
|Today 03:38 PM|
Plasti Dip, Plasti Dip, Plasti Dip. Did I mention Plasti Dip?
|Today 11:24 AM|
|Today 10:07 AM|
|Yesterday 10:44 PM|
|Yesterday 07:15 PM|
|Yesterday 05:33 PM|
OH ITS A HAND THROTTLE!
got it now. Nice job!
|Yesterday 05:12 PM|
|Gord P||What was your motivation for this?|
|Yesterday 04:02 PM|
|Yesterday 04:01 PM|
|Bent jeep||^ wtf am i looking at?|
|Yesterday 03:01 PM|
A blood sacrifice and less than $50 if all parts are purchased new. Took me a couple days to figure out how I wanted to try this and the results have been better than I expected...
Most bike derailleur controls use a screw pin to adjust the cable tension. I chose to remove the pin and replace it with a knob screw for easy one hand tightening control.
I drilled a 1/4" hole in the accelerator arm for a 2 1/2" 1/4" bolt. I started with a fender washer, nylon washer, fender washer, then a nut. This created a non binding attachment for the cable to the pedal. Then another washer that goes against the brake pedal side of the accelerator arm, then a fender washer on the passenger side of the accelerator arm, a lock washer, and a nut to tighten the whole bolt assembly to the pedal.
The can opener was originally to be used as a cable housing retainer, but it broke when I tried to put a 90 degree bend in it. I ended up using part of it for a shim behind the pulley. I fabbed an "L" bracket out of scrap I had in the shop for the cable retainer seen in the middle left of the photo...
Finally how it looks with the carpet installed...
While stopped at idle, the throttle is extremely touchy. Moving the lever very slowly gets nothing...nothing... then 2200RPM. A little playing with the lever and I can control RPM effectively from around 1200 RPM and above. Driving is a different story as the drive by wire accelerator works well with the hand throttle. It's easy to move along at extremely slow speeds using the HT with the ability to increase and decrease speed.
|07-07-2014 11:56 PM|
They are strictly for wheeling.
|07-07-2014 09:21 PM|
|07-07-2014 08:21 PM|
|Espo78||I imagine with the doors on they won't work so well? I don't think you will be able to see the passenger mirror at all.|
|07-07-2014 08:09 PM|
Put together some "quicky" side mirrors that actually work so well I'm going to plastidip them and keep using.
Went by NAPA auto parts and saw these. They were only about 12 bucks each so I got two. Went home cut out some gaskets from an old rubber inner tube (so as not to damage paint). Removed top windshield bolt and installed mirror on both sides. They don't stick out so far that they will catch on trees and limbs so should be good for the long run. Wheeled and used mirrors in traffic, got used to them very quickly and I use side mirrors allot. Very happy with them.
By the way they have stainless hardware attached at the back for the swivel and socket.
P.S. pardon all the dust on the inside of the jeep it was the middle of the weekend after all.
|07-07-2014 01:52 PM|
Won't hurt then to paint them.
Paint em green.
|07-07-2014 01:51 PM|
EDIT, nevermind...I didn't read fully. I don't mind the shocks at all.
|07-07-2014 01:39 PM|
Your muffler looks great!
|07-07-2014 01:30 PM|
Did another one today:
Went to lowes and bought
2' of 1/2" sch 40 PVC
5/8x8" galvanized carriage bolt
Eyebolt (can't recall the size)
And a wing nut
1: Measure the PVC just slightly smaller than the cairrage bolt and cut it. (Enough room to thread the nut at the end)
2: thread the cairrage bolt through the eyebolt
3: put your washer on the other side of the eyebolt.
4: the 1/2" PVC should thread nicely onto the 5/8 bolt, in essence, tapping the PVC using the bolt. You may have to hold the cairrage bolt with some vice grips on the other end.
5: secure the nut to the end
6: put the eyebolt down in the hinge.
7: secure with wing nut and hex nut.
8 dollar foot peg. Finish to your preference. Spray paint, bedliner etc.
My only complaint with this is you have to tighten the guts out of it to keep the weight of your foot from spinning it. Other than that not bad, and you can stretch your leg out and rest it on it.
|07-07-2014 01:25 PM|
Thanks man, I couldn't stand it and soon the Jeep will be higher, so it would be even worse.
Thanks for the idea!
|07-07-2014 01:22 PM|
No I didn't remove the muffler. I just got under it and started spraying.
This should help prevent rust too, so I made sure to really soak the welds.
^that looks 10 times better with that color.
|07-07-2014 01:02 PM|
|ScottyMack||Bent Jeep you inspired me. Did this today, used 4 coats of high temp enamel paint, really easy to do. Just taped some newspaper around the bumper and sprayed. Big improvement!|
|07-07-2014 10:14 AM|
|PrecisionPowder||Took me 2.5 hours to do my muffler which included removing it, sand blasting it, ceramic coating it, an hour in the oven, cool down, and reinstall.|
|07-07-2014 08:59 AM|
|07-07-2014 08:41 AM|
|07-07-2014 07:33 AM|
|Bent jeep||Took all of 5 min.|
|07-07-2014 07:27 AM|
|07-06-2014 10:16 PM|
BBQ paint muffler.
|07-06-2014 09:15 AM|
|07-06-2014 07:55 AM|
I also hope it already looks like a real jeep so I'm not quite sure what you're getting at. If you are merely after 34s and just aesthetics (no performance) you'll need at least a 1" leveling kit, new rims with negative back spacing (or wheel spacers), and trim your fenders (or buy flat flares). I would put money on that you still may need to trim your pinch seems too.
My best recommendation would be to do it the right way the first time and just get a lift kit. Teraflex makes an excellent 2.5" kit. I have heard mostly good things about rough country. Of course there are more good ones out there.
Also, after you do all that, you're mileage and will drop drastically so you may way to regear as well
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