|03-10-2014 10:17 PM|
|spieg||Yea, those are the 37's. Thanks! The front is sitting a little high right now since there isnt any weight on it. Once I toss the stubby and winch on, thatll add 150lbs or so and should lower the front a tad. I need to remember to take some measurements before swapping out the AEV springs for the Metalcloaks, too, to see if there is much difference in lift height between the two.|
|03-10-2014 09:07 PM|
|Seeuoffroad||If this pic is of the 37's I think it looks GREAT! Perfect! It looks like you got more than 3 1/2 inches of lift out of your 3 1/2 inch lift.|
|03-09-2014 02:00 PM|
Got the 37's mounted today, they fill the wheel wells a little better than the 35's did. Im thinking maybe I shouldve gone 38's though... I had to toss the stock bumper on for now until the stubby gets back from powder coat. I ended up putting wheel spacers on but im not sure I really needed to. Once I have a chance to get to a ramp or fork lift and stretch it out, ill see how it looks flexed out.
The other day I popped the top off my intake box to look at my air filter and under the air filter was about 2" of water. In the stock setup that wouldnt be such a concern because the engine would still have to draw it up through the filter. With the river raider setup, the engine side intake gets relocated to the bottom of the airbox and I have to imagine ive fed the engine some amount of water. All I can figure is that the snorkel has been sucking in snow throughout the winter, the snow settles on the air filter, melts and drips through filling up the airbox that I sealed. Needless to say, im working on a new intake box design to solve this issue as well as make room for the PSC steering install.
|03-02-2014 12:44 PM|
|lampatmyfeet||So glad to hear about the service you are getting with AEV. I have their 2.5" lift on my JK and settled on that product after much research. You are confirming what I previously read and further validating my decision. By the way, love your build and thanks for all the detail.|
|03-02-2014 11:35 AM|
|spieg||I finally got my LOD shorty after a bit of a shipping fiasco (it went from Indiana, to Illinois, to Texas, to Ohio, back to Texas, back to Ohio, to Michigan). Im not sure if all of the shorty's are coming this way or not, but the top seam above the fairlead now has three gobs of weld. Ive looked at dozens of pics of this bumper and never seen this on any of them, so im not sure what the deal is. Im having my brother in law fill in the seam with weld and grind it down to try to clean it up a little bit.|
|03-02-2014 11:34 AM|
|spieg||Put in a little work on the jeep this weekend. Shortly after putting on the AEV lift a year ago, I noticed one of the dust caps had come loose on the rear passenger side shock. For a few weeks I would just stuff the dust cap back into the shock body and it would stay there for a day or two. I reached out to AEV at the time, and they said if it got to be an annoyance they would take care of it. It didnt really bother me so I didnt really worry too much about it. A few weeks ago that shock started squeaking really bad. I hate squeaks. I got back in touch with AEV and after exchanging a couple of emails they said they would send me a new shock to replace it with. Since I have about 20,000 miles on the other shocks, I asked if I could buy another rear shock so that I could just replace both rears at the same time. To my surprise, they offered to just ship me two shocks and asked I ship mine back to them. When I removed the rear passenger side upper shock bolts, the whole body instantly fell down the shaft in a heap. So basically, for the last however long, ive only had one rear shock. If anything like this happens again, ill be switching shocks sooner rather than later (probably to Kings since Metalcloak blew me off on the 6paks). Other than some extra body roll and choppiness in curves, which I had mainly attributed to swapping out the stock swaybar with antirock, I hadnt even noticed it while driving. Needless to say, the jeep handles a lot better with four shocks than with three. And the body roll has been greatly improved. I may still swap out the antirock to the stiffer bar, I havent decided for sure yet.|
|02-18-2014 06:33 PM|
|BB1857||Yeah my 37s rub the control arms so I went with wheel spacers as well.|
|02-18-2014 06:15 PM|
|Seeuoffroad||An inch could make all the difference. Also unless your set on a certain tire some 12.50 run a little wider than others. I really like Mickey Thompson Baja MTZ's but if you put a tape measure on them and include the heavy side lugs they are fairly wide and can rub.|
|02-18-2014 05:27 PM|
|spieg||Thanks for the feedback! Maybe I wont rub the control arms with the 37's after all...|
|02-18-2014 02:22 PM|
|Seeuoffroad||Yes I went from 35" to 37" a few months ago. I did the tires first knowing I would not be wheeling anytime soon and have another full time vehicle. I guess you could say I started in reverse 37" first to see what I thought I would need. My 37" don't rub for every day street driving but if I disconnected and was wheeling I would have issues. The reason I went 4" lift is I wanted to make sure I hit the 3 1/2 mark or higher because I'm setting everything for high steer. I've heard the handling can be just as bad if you set up for high steer but only get 2 1/2 to 3 inches of lift so I wanted to hit or break the 3 1/2 inch lift mark. I definitely will not have a stuffed tire look if I get 4" of actual lift or more but that's ok I like the look of extra clearance. I also have extra weight Rockhard 4x4 front and rear bumpers all of his skid plates warn VR10,000S winch and a 37" spare. I think i hit 3 3/4" of actual lift or a little more. I'm hopping no wheel spacers but won't know for sure until done and disconnected.|
|02-18-2014 02:07 PM|
|Seeuoffroad||Yes I went from 35" to 37" a couple months ago|
|02-18-2014 10:47 AM|
The pintlers aren't all that great in that regard. They work fine for a 35x12.50 but a 35x13.50 and I'm guessing a 37x12.50 will be tight. Eventually I'll probably swap to beadlocks with a better offset and eliminate the spacers.
|02-18-2014 08:16 AM|
Thanks. The Reason I ask is our builds will be almost identical. 2012 JKU Right now I am running a 3" lift only getting 2" of lift with a beefed up D30. My Prorock 44 will ship on the 20th. Once I get that here is where I'll be.
2012 JKU 4" Teraflex lift all 8 CA's, Front ProRock 44 ultimate extreme with 35/32 RCV shafts, 4.88 R&P, ARB locker, synergy TB, flipped drag link, tie rod, TB frame brace, sector brace, hi mount steering stabilizer, Reid racing knuckles. Front and rear 1310 JE Reel drive shafts, Rear G2 gold chromoly shafts, 4.88 R&P, ARB locker, Teraflex rear TB and bracket.
Buschwaker flat flares, 37" GY MTR's there's more but that's the major components. The reason I ask is I'm trying to head off the unforeseeable. Not sure that's possible.
|02-18-2014 07:04 AM|
|02-17-2014 09:23 PM|
|02-17-2014 08:28 PM|
|DarkStorm||I wonder if that Ace spare tire carrier would work with a 10A / Rubi X bumper...|
|02-17-2014 06:14 PM|
After driving on the antirock for a few days and bouncing a couple of questions off Currie, ive decided to go from the .750 thick bar to the .850. I like the handling characteristics for the most part, but initial turn in and any kind of aggressive/emergency maneuvers are a little dicey. Not so bad that I feel like im going to crash or anything, just a little looser than I would prefer. I think the .850 will be a better fit for my pig of JK and desired handling.
I forgot to include adding the synergy rear 3" bump stops in my last update. Surprisingly enough, they actually have less clearance on the sway bar links than the AEV bumps stops that I had shaved down a bit do. I think they sit further back on the pads or something. If I was going to continue running the rear sway bar and not switch to the antirock, they wouldnt work for me.
Installed the putco dome lights a few days ago. Not a massive difference, but its noticeable and not too bad.
Prep'ing for the next big phase in about a month. Working with a shop to knock out everything at once if possible:
|01-31-2014 05:16 PM|
|01-31-2014 12:34 PM|
|UgaTyler||This is one mighty fine looking JKUR.|
|01-31-2014 10:55 AM|
|spieg||Its been a little frigid here lately and I havent had as much time to spend working on the jeep as id like. I did finally make a little more progress on it though. With a little help from my friends at America's Most Wanted 4x4 we got my rear control arms on and the front antirock on. The antirock up front changes the handling pretty dramatically. There is a lot more body roll that is a little unnerving at first. With as much snow and ice as we've had lately, its made it a little more difficult to get a good feel for it. My initial impressions are pretty positive though. I think once I get used to it ill really like it. The body roll seems pretty predictable. I just need to get a better feel for it at its limits and I think ill need some better road conditions for that. It also makes a noticeable difference going over bumps and uneven ground. Bumps and elevation changes that are only on one side of the jeep only seem to affect that side of the jeep now whereas before there was more carry over to the entire front end. Even potholes and that sort of thing dont seem to have as much impact on the entire front end. One road in particular that has a steep declining off camber turn used to cause my jeep to almost bounce and feel a bit like a roller coaster. Going over it the other day was completely different, no bounce, more planted, more controlled, no roller coaster feel. At first it was kind of a disappointment (not as fun of a feeling) but its definitely a result of being more controlled in that situation. Overall its more of a floaty type feeling in the front end, but im certain there will be plenty of situations such as the one I just mentioned where it actually improves handling. Im anxious to get the rear antirock on and see how that changes things as well. I still have a little bit of tweaking to do on the endlinks to make sure everything is right where I want it. I ended up putting the links outboard of the end link mount tabs instead of inboard like the directions showed. It just didnt seem to line up right and had pretty extreme angles when they were inboard. With them outboard, everything is almost perfectly straight up and down. Im definitely glad I went with the aluminum arms. Its nice when a functional mod can look good at the same time. Also one of those rare situations where the aftermarket parts end up weighing less than the OEM parts they replace!|
|12-12-2013 04:45 PM|
A few build updates as well, as the result of a few black friday sales ill be adding:
|12-12-2013 04:37 PM|
|spieg||Finally got a couple of pics of the linex job from last week. Not the best pics but it gets dark out early these days and is currently about 10F outside, so I wasnt too worried about it.|
|12-05-2013 08:15 PM|
|spieg||If youre going to do a swap, might as well get the prorock over a built axle. If youre planning a regear anyway, might as well kill two birds with one stone! Just do it!|
|12-05-2013 08:11 PM|
Another option was a take out that's built and already geared but people price them way too high.
I really like the increased caster w/ the PR and TF housings.
|12-05-2013 08:08 PM|
|12-05-2013 08:05 PM|
|12-05-2013 07:45 PM|
And I so want the Prorock
Can't seem to scratch a winning lottery ticket rofl
|12-05-2013 07:42 PM|
Another option, RK's new 3.5 triple rate ?
I talked with Jeramy at RK. He says the new triple rate coils are awesome in testing. Smoother ride and I can imagine the free length at full droop is going to be just as good or better then MC.
Can't wait for the 2.5's to come out.
|11-24-2013 12:22 PM|
|11-24-2013 10:10 AM|
Thanks for the info guys!
Im still on the fence with the metalcloak springs vs the AEV springs. There have been a few situations where the AEV springs were a little unpredictable and hard to keep loaded (and one situation where a rear unloaded rapidly standing me up on my front to wheels). It seems like the metalcloaks would be a little more predictable near their limits, but I could be wrong. I think the antirocks will help a little in that regard, too.
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