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Topic Review (Newest First)
03-22-2013 10:54 PM
Patrick H
Quote:
Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post
Plus, if you ever do decide to go back to stock, get in touch. I have tapered inserts with a shoulder on them and the correct tooling to install them for welding afterwards. I do NOT sell them to anyone but highly experienced fabricators that can follow simple instructions, so I rarely sell them, but I use a bunch of them myself.
I appreciate it. Like I said, there was so little actually removed when i drilled it, I wouldn't hesitate to install a stock tapered stud back in it, maybe with a GR8 flat washer.
03-22-2013 10:42 PM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post
As I said, it's already installed. And as I said, I had already plated and re-drilled the axle bracket to center the axle. The 5/8" offset was very noticeable.
The 9/16" drill hardly removed any material. There's more than enough depth left in the taper to install a stock track bar back on it if I ever chose to. Even if there wasn't, I could always drill it out and weld a tapered insert in there.
I researched enough to find that the JKS will have more than enough clearance. With the ZJ tie rod, 1.5" bump stops are all that's required, and I need at least 2" to keep the tires out of the fenders anyhow. So, "I already knew".
But thanks.
Plus, if you ever do decide to go back to stock, get in touch. I have tapered inserts with a shoulder on them and the correct tooling to install them for welding afterwards. I do NOT sell them to anyone but highly experienced fabricators that can follow simple instructions, so I rarely sell them, but I use a bunch of them myself.
03-22-2013 08:21 PM
Patrick H
Quote:
Originally Posted by pcwolf View Post
Patrick, evaluate carefully before you make the swap. Drilling out the frame-side tapered balljoint mount is a ONE-WAY mod, no going back.

For mild lift (~2") there is NOTHING that will clear better than the stock trackbar, and the axle offset is small enough you will hardly notice. The difference in the built-in bow to clear diffs is substantial when laying the stock and after-market adjustables side by side. The stocker is also a solid steel bar so strength is not an issue.
RE-1600 will drill out to 5/8"
JKS126 will drill out to 9/16"
Curry will drill out to 5/8"

"The more you know"
As I said, it's already installed. And as I said, I had already plated and re-drilled the axle bracket to center the axle. The 5/8" offset was very noticeable.
The 9/16" drill hardly removed any material. There's more than enough depth left in the taper to install a stock track bar back on it if I ever chose to. Even if there wasn't, I could always drill it out and weld a tapered insert in there.
I researched enough to find that the JKS will have more than enough clearance. With the ZJ tie rod, 1.5" bump stops are all that's required, and I need at least 2" to keep the tires out of the fenders anyhow. So, "I already knew".
But thanks.
03-22-2013 07:48 PM
pcwolf Patrick, evaluate carefully before you make the swap. Drilling out the frame-side tapered balljoint mount is a ONE-WAY mod, no going back.

For mild lift (~2") there is NOTHING that will clear better than the stock trackbar, and the axle offset is small enough you will hardly notice. The difference in the built-in bow to clear diffs is substantial when laying the stock and after-market adjustables side by side. The stocker is also a solid steel bar so strength is not an issue.
RE-1600 will drill out to 5/8"
JKS126 will drill out to 9/16"
Curry will drill out to 5/8"

"The more you know"

Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post
Maybe I should ask this- Am I going to gain anything by going to a non- stock track bar? Mine has some play at the frame side spherical joint. I already welded a reinforcement plate on the axle bracket and drilled a new hole to center my axle. I'm running 2" BDS springs and a 3/4" spacer. I don't intend to go higher because I can clear 33's as is, and I won't go bigger.
Is it a waste of money, for my particular application, since the adjustability isn't really a concern?
03-22-2013 12:04 AM
Patrick H
Quote:
Originally Posted by lynn View Post
So what is the replacement for the heims?
I like my JKS Quickers, but I'd really like an Antirock (not gonna happen this year).
Whoops, sorry Lynn, I didn't see your post.
I put some JKS Quickers' on it. JKS track bar is installed as well and looks good. I haven't pulled the springs to double check clearance at full bump yet, I'll do that when my new shocks get here when I re-set my bump stops.
03-16-2013 03:26 PM
lynn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post
For?
I figured I didn't have a lot to lose trying this box since I can warranty it here in town. I'm willing to spend the 30 minutes it takes to swap it out if it doesn't work out. So far, so good.
Stay tuned while I get rid of the rattling heim joint sway bar links once and for all, and remedy the slightly loose track bar..
So what is the replacement for the heims?
I like my JKS Quickers, but I'd really like an Antirock (not gonna happen this year).
03-15-2013 01:36 PM
TJspeed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Leslee View Post
How do you do book marking?
Not really "book marking" just subscribing to the thread so I can find it later
03-15-2013 12:27 PM
Leslee
marking

How do you do book marking?
03-14-2013 08:14 PM
Patrick H
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJspeed View Post
Yeah... That keeps floating around in my head.
You need to look through the links UnlimitedLJ04 posted. Your current steering will probably determine your bump stops due to interference with the track bar.
Besides the fact that you already have tie rod/ drag link clearance issues as it is.
03-14-2013 07:22 PM
TJspeed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post

This would also be a great time to get rid of that crappy steering linkage you have.
Yeah... That keeps floating around in my head.
03-14-2013 05:02 PM
Patrick H
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJspeed View Post
just book marking this thread so when I get ready to buy my track bars.
This would also be a great time to get rid of that crappy steering linkage you have.
03-14-2013 04:56 PM
TJspeed
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post
For?
just book marking this thread so when I get ready to buy my track bars.
03-14-2013 04:54 PM
Patrick H So much for buying shocks this month..
03-14-2013 04:53 PM
Patrick H
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJspeed View Post
Sub'd
For?
I figured I didn't have a lot to lose trying this box since I can warranty it here in town. I'm willing to spend the 30 minutes it takes to swap it out if it doesn't work out. So far, so good.
Stay tuned while I get rid of the rattling heim joint sway bar links once and for all, and remedy the slightly loose track bar..
03-14-2013 02:55 PM
TJspeed Sub'd
03-14-2013 02:47 PM
Patrick H Gonna give the Atsco a try.

Attachment 222599
03-14-2013 10:06 AM
Patrick H I know, we're skipping around here......
Should I- run down the street and purchase the Atsco from Autozone and install it right now, order the Lares 4 bolt unit, or order the standard Lares box....?
03-14-2013 10:00 AM
Patrick H
Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
Just to clarify, Savvy doesn't make a track bar. That's a Currie bar. I run it on a very low setup and it works very nicely.
Yes, my mistake. I would have purchased it through Savvy. Does that count?
03-14-2013 09:58 AM
Imped Just to clarify, Savvy doesn't make a track bar. That's a Currie bar. I run it on a very low setup and it works very nicely.
03-14-2013 09:52 AM
Patrick H So, would I be correct in assuming that this "rock crawler" unit from Lares would be pretty close to the equivalent of the Durango box? Both the larger bore I assume, but I don't know about ratios.
03-14-2013 09:46 AM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post
Since a larger shank fits/ fills the track bar bushing sleave a little tighter, I'd guess a lot of folks think that will make the track bar nore secure. The reality is, though, that if the bolt is properly torqued, be it the stock bolt or otherwise, that bolt will never see shear. In this application, it's strictly in tension.
That is correct. Unfortunately the vast majority of folks can't quite wrap their heads around that concept and it seems totally unfathomable if you own anything with JK in the name.
03-14-2013 09:43 AM
Black Magic Brakes
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post
That "rock crawler" box from Lares is a 4 bolt box. IIRC, 4 bolt boxes do fit in a 3 bolt application, just one bolt (obviously) isn't used. Is that correct?
Yes, it's very common to swap a 4 bolt into the TJ which only uses 3 of them. I also do it with the 03-06 ZF box by moving the forward hole in the frame slightly to let them bolt up directly.
03-14-2013 09:33 AM
Patrick H I'd bet that it's merely the larger bore box.
03-14-2013 09:15 AM
lynn Give 'em a call to confirm fit. See if they can tell you more about the rock crawler box. I recall that it had upgraded internals.
03-14-2013 09:04 AM
Patrick H Looks like I can get the Lares "rock crawler" box for ~$160 shipped, without core return. $30 more than the (Atsco) Duralast.
It is listed to fit, but it's a 4 bolt box...
03-14-2013 09:02 AM
Patrick H
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
Patrick-
here's a rundown on JKS vs Currie TJS/TJJ clearance w/ low lift.
Stock cover, Currie TJS/TJJ, stock tie-rod, w/ 2" bumpstop extension.
Stock cover, Currie TJS/TJJ, V8 ZJ tie-rod, w/ 1" bumpstop extension.
Stock cover, JKS, V8 ZJ tie-rod, w/ 1" bumpstop extension.
Stock cover, JKS, V8 ZJ tie-rod, w. ~1.5" bumpstop extension

Do you have a BL? If not, you'll be hard pressed to get much lower than 2" bumpstop extensions w/ 33s, depending on backspacing & tire width. With 10.50 or 9.5" wide tires on stock-ish BS, you could probably get the tires to tuck inside the fenderwell a little easier than 12.50 wide.
I looked at most or all of those pics yesterday, one of the reasons I felt warm and fuzzy enough about the JKS to order it.
I do have a 1.25" body lift. and right now, still @ 32" tires. Shock length is the only thing keeping me at 2 1/2" bump stops. (I went and re-visited them) .I could stand to loose 1/2" or 3/4" of shock length and 1/2" of bump stop. That would leave me with enough fender clearance for 33's.
03-14-2013 08:54 AM
UnlimitedLJ04 Patrick-
here's a rundown on JKS vs Currie TJS/TJJ clearance w/ low lift.
Stock cover, Currie TJS/TJJ, stock tie-rod, w/ 2" bumpstop extension.
Stock cover, Currie TJS/TJJ, V8 ZJ tie-rod, w/ 1" bumpstop extension.
Stock cover, JKS, V8 ZJ tie-rod, w/ 1" bumpstop extension.
Stock cover, JKS, V8 ZJ tie-rod, w. ~1.5" bumpstop extension

Do you have a BL? If not, you'll be hard pressed to get much lower than 2" bumpstop extensions w/ 33s, depending on backspacing & tire width. With 10.50 or 9.5" wide tires on stock-ish BS, you could probably get the tires to tuck inside the fenderwell a little easier than 12.50 wide.
03-14-2013 08:53 AM
lynn
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post
That "rock crawler" box from Lares is a 4 bolt box. IIRC, 4 bolt boxes do fit in a 3 bolt application, just one bolt (obviously) isn't used. Is that correct?
That is one of those facts I never bothered to mentally file...
03-14-2013 08:52 AM
lynn When I got my Lares through AZ there was no shipping charge, and core return was simply to AZ. May have been a slightly higher base price than RockAuto.
03-14-2013 08:51 AM
Patrick H That "rock crawler" box from Lares is a 4 bolt box. IIRC, 4 bolt boxes do fit in a 3 bolt application, just one bolt (obviously) isn't used. Is that correct?
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