|12-05-2013 09:15 PM|
|spieg||If youre going to do a swap, might as well get the prorock over a built axle. If youre planning a regear anyway, might as well kill two birds with one stone! Just do it!|
|12-05-2013 09:11 PM|
Another option was a take out that's built and already geared but people price them way too high.
I really like the increased caster w/ the PR and TF housings.
|12-05-2013 09:08 PM|
|12-05-2013 09:05 PM|
|12-05-2013 08:45 PM|
And I so want the Prorock
Can't seem to scratch a winning lottery ticket rofl
|12-05-2013 08:42 PM|
Another option, RK's new 3.5 triple rate ?
I talked with Jeramy at RK. He says the new triple rate coils are awesome in testing. Smoother ride and I can imagine the free length at full droop is going to be just as good or better then MC.
Can't wait for the 2.5's to come out.
|11-24-2013 01:22 PM|
|11-24-2013 11:10 AM|
Thanks for the info guys!
Im still on the fence with the metalcloak springs vs the AEV springs. There have been a few situations where the AEV springs were a little unpredictable and hard to keep loaded (and one situation where a rear unloaded rapidly standing me up on my front to wheels). It seems like the metalcloaks would be a little more predictable near their limits, but I could be wrong. I think the antirocks will help a little in that regard, too.
|11-24-2013 09:59 AM|
A Highsteer will work with any lift that's 3.5+ in height. It's not that it won't work with MC's lift, they just don't offer a Highsteer kit. AEV/RK/EVo and TF (different setup) all do. Not sure what MC's reasons are.
Edit: read Ken rofl
Up travel, makes sense I guess. 3" bumpstop is required to run a flip kit which will limit up travel.
|11-24-2013 07:23 AM|
|11-23-2013 02:06 PM|
Thanks for the heads up BB1857! Did they provide any more detail than that? I already have a flipped drag link highsteer setup and im guessing that is what they are cautioning about? The reid's shouldnt change much with my setup other than raising my tie rod 1.5" and being a little stronger than the stock knuckles. Is there anything else im overlooking?
Added the PSC hydro assist kit and curries antirock front and rear to my black friday shopping list!
|11-23-2013 08:09 AM|
|11-16-2013 04:14 PM|
Finally got around to ordering up the synergy bump stops, went with the 3" and figured if I cant stuff the 37"s I can just add something to the top of them when needed. I also ordered up the metalcloak rear sway bar end links since one of my AEV ones is bent from not clearancing the AEV bump stops quite enough and because they were pretty cheap as far as end links go. Plus im turning into a bit of a metalcloak zealot.
Also working on the black friday shopping list:
RCV front shafts
Metalcloak upper and lower rear control arms
Extended brake lines
Maybe some JW Speaker head lights and fog lights if theres a screamin' deal on them.
I think I might switch out to the LOD signature stubby as well.
Lastly, dropping the jeep of December 2nd to get the inside line-x'd!
|10-28-2013 08:02 AM|
|10-14-2013 10:12 PM|
|spieg||Here are the cell phone pics on the ramp. It still had a little ways to go but didnt want to freak out the passengers too bad.|
|10-14-2013 10:03 PM|
Ah yea, for some reason I was thinking the synergy bump stops were offset rearward which would make things worse. I didnt even think about it. Being offset forward makes more sense and would definitely help my issue on the sway bar link.
The issue with the rubbing was only an issue with the rear axle off the ground. As the axle droops it shifts toward the passenger side a bit. When I had it on a lift, the driver side end link was up against the inside of my tire. It would only be an issue when both rear wheels came off the ground, but at the dunes that happens more often than youd think, so it was enough to concern me. On a 12.5 inch width tire, I think youd be ok.
I took a few pics wheeling this weekend and was excited to check things out only to find that my camera lost its mind and deleted the pics. All I ended up with were a couple of crappy cell phone pics on an RTI ramp. The new flares really open things up though. Lots of room now. I may still need to go 4" bump in the rear to keep 37's out of the flares. At full stuff in the front, I was rubbing on my shock reservoirs and sway bar end links (I just use the electric disco). Need to tweak things a little...
|10-11-2013 08:48 AM|
I run my links on the outside so they're nowhere near the bump stops. The Synergy ones though have a forward offset so wouldn't that give you more clearance?
I don't run spacers and I've never made contact with my 35s. I'll have to confirm the 37s don't rub though. When I checked for tire clearance I pulled the rear springs so I could flex it easily in my garage. To pull the springs I disconnected my links and left them undone until I was finished. The 37s are the same width so I should be okay but now you've got me wondering, I'll have to check it out.
I'm pretty sure mine looks like this pic though and the link stays inside the wheel. I'm not sure how it could contact the tire?
|10-10-2013 11:23 PM|
automaticSuperstatic: I was finishing up my fender flare install tonight and got to wondering...
Do you run your rear sway bar end links on the inside or outside of the swaybar? I noticed one of my end links is still making minor contact with my bump stops even after I shaved them. But I also noticed that if I switched to the synergy bump stops, it looks like theyll be making contact with my end links like crazy. Im guessing you are running yours outside of the swaybar. If thats the case, do you have any issues with the top of the end links contacting the inside of your tire at full droop? Maybe its just because my tires are kind of on the wide side, but I would think youd rub on the tire there. Are you running any wheel spacers or anything? I guess if I end up switching to the hutchinsons it wont be as much of an issue but just curious about your setup.
Ill toss some pics up of the new fender flares in a few days.
|10-08-2013 10:56 PM|
The point on the synergy bracket that comes into contact with the spring is right on a bolt head. Ive seen a few other people with the same problem and synergy's response has been that their coils dont rub. Some people just live with the annoying sound, which I imagine gets somewhat less pronounced in time as it self machines the coil. Some people have chopped a chunk off the bracket. For now im just living with it. But the MC coils might be in order. I just need to verify they are in fact a smaller diameter than the AEV's.
Looking at your stuff pic, if I had to guess, id say your going to "adjust" your fender flare if you are offroad and disco'd and try to turn at all while flexed out like that.
Got the crusher flares back from powdercoat today and they look great. Figured id toss the fronts on tonight real quick. What a pain in the ass. Even after preinstalling them theyre a pain in the ass. Got the driver side front on, but it still needs some adjusting. Not happy with the fit as it stands. So sick of turning a stupid allen key. Tomorrow I get to drive around with one stock flare and one psc flare.
|10-08-2013 08:21 AM|
Those are the bump stops. You definitely could trim the AEV stop though since it doesn't hit by much. I was considering it but I really needed to get some an inch taller anyways.
I have AEV brackets up front. Could you just trim yours a bit to make the spring clear?
I haven't noticed any rubbing up front yet. I got the tire stuffed and it all looked good but I couldn't hold the steering wheel at full lock and get out at the same time. It would always return back just a little. I just got the tires and haven't been off road with them yet so who knows what may show up that I didn't account for. I also don't have the front MC arms on yet. I run out of weekend doing the rears. Measuring axle bolt to frame bolt though looks like the length of the MC arms will put my axle in the exact same spot as the AEV drop brackets with stock arms.
|10-07-2013 09:11 PM|
Thanks a lot for posting back with your experiences, I really appreciate it.
Are these the bump stops you went with? Is there any chance you could just clearance the AEV bump stops with an angle grinder or something? I already had to chop into them a bit to clear the sway bar end links after I swapped them around inboard instead of outboard. Not too big of a deal since the synergy's are pretty cheap but I think ive settled on the long term plan of air bumps all around to soften things up on the sand dunes. That plan is a ways down the road but I still hate spending money twice.
Ive actually been thinking about swapping to the metalcloak springs when I toss the rear control arms in. Im hoping they are a slightly smaller coil diameter and will clear the synergy track bar bracket in the front. The AEV coils just barely catch on it and make an awful noise every time I stretch the front out at all. I think im going to add the tom woods in the rear at the same time as well to buy me a little peace of mind on the driveline angles.
Your jeep looks great with the 37's! I think ive talked myself into waiting until spring before I make the swap. The duratracs will be better through the winter and im hoping to still get a few bucks out of them in the spring. Im half thinking about switching to hutchinson rock monsters at the same time, but im having a hard time stomaching the cost.
One last thing, how do things fit up front? Any rubbing on lower control arms at full lock or anywhere else? I just heard from my powder coater tonight, my psc flares are ready to be picked up so hopefully I can get those on this week one night!
|10-07-2013 08:35 PM|
I got the rear Metalcoak arms on, there's just a couple things to watch for.
On the RH side the AEV bump stop will hit the track bar bolt head with the axle moved back. It didn't really line up with the upper stop anyway so I bought some offset bump stops from Synergy. I got some 4" stops but you should be able to get away with 3" if you're getting flares. With the stock fenders I had to do a little trimming of course in the rear for the 37s but it wasn't bad.
The spring didn't contact the track bar but I did use some spring wedges so maybe that helped. I didn't try it without the wedges.
I used Metalcloak's control arm lengths but the pinion angle seemed too steep. Maybe the lengths are better suited for a two door? I shorted the uppers 3 turns and it looks better, I probably could have even gone a little more.
The 37s fit pretty good. They stuff just inside the fender. I can see how your tires could make contact since they're wide even though they're 35s.
Here's my AEV 3.5 with 37s to encourage you. This pic is actually pre Metalcloak.
|08-31-2013 08:10 AM|
|08-30-2013 11:54 PM|
|Gunner||I'd say your building a pretty nice jeep but your already there. Your gonna have an awesome jeep when your done. Congrat's.|
|08-30-2013 11:23 PM|
|Olsen185||Thanks a lot, they look great. I've just been concerned with the center grey section and how it will hold up to dirt and stains. My wife's wet okole covers look like crap after 6 months.|
|08-30-2013 11:12 PM|
|spieg||Sure thing Erik. Just sent it your way!|
|08-30-2013 08:03 PM|
Do you have a higher resolution of the picture from post #40you could send me (doors off, side shot). I've been thinking about the same trek armors.
|08-30-2013 06:54 PM|
|08-30-2013 02:30 PM|
|ronhawg||Great Build thread!!!!!|
|08-30-2013 02:05 PM|
|automaticSuperstatic||Is your rear track bar setup AEV or Synergy? I have an AEV setup now and ordered a full set of MC arms about 4 weeks ago. When they finally come in I'll try to let you know if I run into any incompatibility like the track bar hitting the spring or something. I've done some measuring though and think it'll be fine.|
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