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Topic Review (Newest First)
01-23-2014 01:32 PM
tkfx
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post
Probably going with 35" at the maximum.
Does it come with the factory locker pumps? The factory tj rubicon lockers can only take a maximum of like 6 psi before they blow the internal bladder. And its really hard finding any like new replacment pumps for them since most aftermarket pumps nowadays are way higher then 6 psi. Not to mention it will be difficult to maintain 5 psi with an aftermarket pump.
01-23-2014 11:04 AM
Jeffreybomb Probably going with 35" at the maximum.
01-21-2014 06:06 PM
jeepwayoflife
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post
I'm resurrecting this thread again. I've found a few used Dana 44 axle sets (front and rear) for sale. Should I consider a stock set with disc brakes, 4.10 gears, and factory lockers, or am I better off putting money into an aftermarket set?

There's a substantial cost difference. Again (and as I've mentioned before), I want to do this correctly rather than waste time and money.

Thanks!
How big of a tire will You run
01-21-2014 05:47 PM
Jeffreybomb I'm resurrecting this thread again. I've found a few used Dana 44 axle sets (front and rear) for sale. Should I consider a stock set with disc brakes, 4.10 gears, and factory lockers, or am I better off putting money into an aftermarket set?

There's a substantial cost difference. Again (and as I've mentioned before), I want to do this correctly rather than waste time and money.

Thanks!
10-25-2013 05:37 PM
harryhood FWIW,

I was looking at either a OX, ARB or Eaton e-locker for the HP dana 30 I'm building for my jeep.

I decided against the Eaton because to many bad reviews.

I didn't see any bad reviews really for either the OX or ARB.

I decided against the ARB due to the extra cost over the OX. I also like the simplicity of the manual cable engagement on the OX.
10-25-2013 03:41 PM
Jeffreybomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by IslandTJ View Post
Out of the list you provided, the Detroit TrueTrac is NOT a locker, it a a gear driven limited slip and will lose traction once a tire is lifted or if you rock crawl.
Good to know. I'm going to edit the list down, because I definitely want lockers.

ARB Air Locker
Detroit Locker
Ox Locker
Eaton E-Locker
Auburn Ected
Dana Trac Lok

(BTW: I listed what options popped up on 4wd.com when I did a search for rear axles.)
10-25-2013 03:39 PM
IslandTJ Out of the list you provided, the Detroit TrueTrac is NOT a locker, it a a gear driven limited slip and will lose traction once a tire is lifted or if you rock crawl.

The Detroit Locker and Dana Trac Lok are automatic lockers which unlock when the hardware experiences a difference in speed between the inner and outer wheel. No activation required by the driver. The Detroit is a full carrier replacement, hence is a stronger unit but more costly compared to the Trac Lok (commonly referred as a lunchbox locker).

The ARB Air Locker, Ox Locker, and Eaton E-Locker are selectable lockers and require a switch mechanism to activate from an open differential to a spool. Selectivity makes this an ideal choice option for traction but more components are required for the units to operate.

The Auburn Ected is also a selectable locker but when inactive - operates as a clutch type limited slip vs. open. When activated, the unit is advertised as being "locked".
10-25-2013 03:05 PM
Jeffreybomb Back again after wandering around and looking through numerous axle set-ups (and hoping something would pop up on a few parts sites).

Would someone mind explaining the difference between these axle types? Benefits? Drawbacks? I know there's a number of them listed, so let me thank whoever tackles the list in advance for your time.

ARB Air Locker
Detroit Locker
Detroit True Trac
Ox Locker
Eaton E-Locker
Auburn Ected
Dana Trac Lok

I'm still considering 35" for now, but I'd like to also keep in mind that I'd like to prepare to go bigger if the components allow.
04-30-2013 02:30 PM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwayoflife View Post
Wow, so sad to hear. For a company that invented the "super kits" they didn't last too long.
Supposedly they started back in 1934 (or at least the beginnings of what would become Superior):

Superior Axle & Gear

I wouldn't be surprised if they make a come back under new owners or something similar. It is indeed a shame.
04-30-2013 02:28 PM
jeepwayoflife Wow, so sad to hear. For a company that invented the "super kits" they didn't last too long. Had a great reputation as well. I guess it isn't all just about product quality... I'm glad I found a Dana 44 to replace my Dana 35 and didn't order a super 35. Thanks for the Info
04-30-2013 02:12 PM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepwayoflife View Post
Going out of business!?
Yep:

Is Superior history? - JeepForum.com
Superior Axleshaft Delays & Dissapointments - JeepForum.com
04-30-2013 02:10 PM
jeepwayoflife
Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post

Yes, but sadly they seem to be going out of business.
Going out of business!?
04-30-2013 08:48 AM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post
Is it possible to use the stock lighting on the speedometer panel for the front and rear lockers? I noticed them today in the upper right-hand part of the panel.
Some have done it:

Using The Rubi Locker Dash Lights w/o Rubi Lockers - JeepForum.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by ob269 View Post
Superior axles is the brand of axle shafts isn't it?
Yes, but sadly they seem to be going out of business.
04-29-2013 06:26 PM
Jeffreybomb Is it possible to use the stock lighting on the speedometer panel for the front and rear lockers? I noticed them today in the upper right-hand part of the panel.
03-22-2013 03:32 PM
Motowithy If it is out of a rubicon you will need the air pumps, and switches. Also will need to shorten the driveshaft and get a u joint adapter.
03-22-2013 02:18 PM
jeepwayoflife
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolandj View Post
I'm looking into swapping my axles. I found dana 44 with 410s and disc brakes. does it matter what year they are out of and what also what else do i need to change to make the disc brakes work.
You will need the ebrake cable (not sure how it works) and be able to bleed the brake lines. As long as the axle is out of a Tj (97-06) it should fit fine.
03-22-2013 01:53 PM
rolandj I'm looking into swapping my axles. I found dana 44 with 410s and disc brakes. does it matter what year they are out of and what also what else do i need to change to make the disc brakes work.
03-20-2013 08:04 PM
Jeffreybomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdftw View Post
See what we said about 35s opening up a huge can of worms?
Pretty sure that already happened when I bought a Jeep to begin with.
03-20-2013 07:48 PM
5spdftw
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post
I've got 33s with 3.73 right now on my stock D35. I really like the 33s, but like I mentioned above, I'm considering switching to 35s when it's time to get new tires. That's a long ways off yet, so I want to plan as I go.
If you think you will go to 35s then I would just save all of your "gradual" mod money until you need new tires and then do tires, rear axle, regear, steering, brakes, etc. If you decide you want lockers, its a perfect time to get them when you are regearing. However, if you decide to lock the front you will likely need chromoly axle shafts as the stock ones will be on borrowed time. And depending on how many miles you have on the front axle you can switch to better u-joints (Spicer 5-760x) at the same time. You will also need to make sure you have the necessary lift components to clear 35s (at least a 4" lift with a 1.25" body lift unless you run flat fenders and do a heavy amount of trimming like me). Also, with that much lift you will need a Slip yoke eliminator (SYE) for your transfer case, probably new driveshafts, and adjustable control arms. See what we said about 35s opening up a huge can of worms?
03-20-2013 07:12 PM
Jeffreybomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by doclouie View Post
33s and the auto tranny are ideal at 4.10 gearing although 3.73 is not too bad either.
I've got 33s with 3.73 right now on my stock D35. I really like the 33s, but like I mentioned above, I'm considering switching to 35s when it's time to get new tires. That's a long ways off yet, so I want to plan as I go.
03-20-2013 06:44 PM
doclouie Figure out what size tire you want to run long term. I prefer 33s and that is what I run with the 3 speed tranny and 4.10 gearing, but mine is a daily driver. You only want to regear once so make sure you have the axle you want. A Dana 44 out of a TJ or LJ is a direct swap and will work fine or you can go the Superior Super 35 route. Figure that out and then regear as needed. 33s and the auto tranny are ideal at 4.10 gearing although 3.73 is not too bad either.
03-20-2013 05:35 PM
Jeffreybomb I found a graph (and of course I'm having a hard time trying to find it again) that compares gear ratio to tire size and shows their RPMs. The graph was color-coded to show optimal gear and tire configurations.

That said, if I find a used axle that's "bolt in," does that essentially mean I can run it without having to make further modifications to CVs or transfer cases, et al? As always, I want to make sure I'm doing this right, but it would really help me in the wallet if I can do the build gradually versus dumping everything in at once.
03-20-2013 05:00 PM
5spdftw Regearing is tough when you are not sure what size you will run. I think 4.10 is right for the 3 speed auto on 33s. Don't take my word for it though, I have 35s, a 5 speed manual, and 4.88s. I've also never been on 33s so everything I can say about them is speculation and stuff I've heard or read.
03-20-2013 03:04 PM
Jeffreybomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdftw View Post
A D44 out of the back of any TJ or LJ is a direct bolt in replacement. Mine came out of a Sahara that had a wrecked front half of the frame.
Good call. Sounds like I'll have to keep my eyes open on a wide range of sites.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 5spdftw View Post
Of course, before anyone gives you any more advice, what is your intended use? Daily driver, weekend toy, etc? What kind of wheeling do you like? Rock crawling, hill climbs, fire roads, mudding, etc? These will determine how built up your axles, brakes, steering, etc need to be. Also, auto or manual?
When the weather gets warm, it's easier to take mass transit here in Chicago, so the TJ moves away from being a DD. I think I'm about middle of the road between DD and "weekend toy."

I'm still trying all kinds of different wheeling. I think rock crawling and hill climbs are some of my faves. Don't really know what fire roads are.

I have an automatic transmission.
03-20-2013 12:46 PM
5spdftw
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post
The D44s I've seen are pretty expensive brand-new. Would I be better off finding a used axle and piecing together parts for it, such as the gears and lockers?

Saving money is nice, but I want to make sure I'm not going to shoot myself in the foot doing it.
A D44 out of the back of any TJ or LJ is a direct bolt in replacement. Mine came out of a Sahara that had a wrecked front half of the frame. Of course, before anyone gives you any more advice, what is your intended use? Daily driver, weekend toy, etc? What kind of wheeling do you like? Rock crawling, hill climbs, fire roads, mudding, etc? These will determine how built up your axles, brakes, steering, etc need to be. Also, auto or manual?
03-20-2013 11:18 AM
Jeffreybomb The D44s I've seen are pretty expensive brand-new. Would I be better off finding a used axle and piecing together parts for it, such as the gears and lockers?

Saving money is nice, but I want to make sure I'm not going to shoot myself in the foot doing it.
03-19-2013 10:05 PM
hosejockey61 Do your research before throwing money at it. Here is a GREAT thread for beginners that help you understand a lot about your TJ:

TJ Tech BOOT CAMP: A must-read for new TJ owners/forum members - JeepForum.com
03-19-2013 09:47 PM
freeskier
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeffreybomb View Post
Being that I just got my 33" tires last year, I still have some time to do upgrades and not have to rush it.
This right here is very smart and not something a lot of people understand. It is oh so tempting to just throw in a Super 35 kit and throw on some 35s. Take your time, start looking for a new axle now. A Super 35 and 35s is still very close to the limits of that axle. Find a d44 or an 8.8 and you'll have a very comfortable margin for error. Throw in some chromo shafts and you've got a very bullet proof axle.
03-19-2013 09:31 PM
Jeffreybomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrussblues View Post
If you plan on running 35's a 44 rear should be in your plans as well as a regear, upgraded shafts for the front 30, upgraded steering and a loss in mpg.
Yeah, I was just doing some reading on gearing and splines. There's a lot to it, but that's why I started the thread.

Do I have to worry much about the front axle when I upgrade the rear, aside from gearing it the same? From the reading I've been doing, I don't get the feeling that the front is a huge priority.
03-19-2013 08:35 PM
jeepwayoflife A Dana 35 with superior super 35 kit will run ARB fully locked 35" tires without a problem. Just an option.
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