|03-25-2013 10:32 PM|
As a communication technician, I can tell you any exposed wiring in the antenna will act as an antenna. Terms we use are ingress ( signal getting into your frequency) and egress ( signal your transmitting into someone else's frequency).
Example driving down the road and radio gets static under power lines (ingress).
A sealed circuit is best with no noise, running it direct to the battery is your best/ cleanest source of power.
|03-25-2013 04:48 PM|
Could have been Stu-offroad where I got the idea, but I used a length of RG8 shielded cable for power supply direct from the battery. Stripped about six inches back, used the central solid lead for POS+ and twisted the outer braid for NEG-
Still being told my transmissions are stepped on when engine on in motion, so my next fix is going to be taking a braided grounding cable from my behind taillight antenna mount direct to the frame.
Also, if you are looking for an RFI filter, tell the clueless Radio Shack guy you are looking for a "choke." It's in the parts bins.
|03-25-2013 01:39 PM|
|03-25-2013 12:54 PM|
|03-25-2013 12:52 PM|
If all you can find are 10-30 amp fuses, by all means go with a 10 amp which will protect the CB & its wiring far better than a 30 amp fuse will. But I've yet to see a source of blade or cartridge fuses that didn't also carry 5 amp fuses. And yes, using a 30 amp fuse could indeed cause a CB or its wiring to "fry". That size fuse is WAY over the size it should be to protect the CB and its wiring.
Good electrical engineering practice says to use the smallest fuse possible that will protect the circuit while providing a margin for a slight amount of extra current drawn when first powering up the device when it's "cold". Normal practice is to use a fuse rated double the circuit's anticipated current draw. Nearest to that for a CB would be a 5 amp fuse.
Do I have a video of proof that the battery is a cleaner source of power? No, that fact is just very basic knowledge among those who have a good sound electrical/electronic and/or 2-way radio education. A battery provides pure DC power & also acts as a filter so it is by far the cleanest (most noise-free) source of power.
|03-25-2013 12:44 PM|
|03-25-2013 12:33 PM|
For the fuse size, a CB draws less than 2 amps even when transmitting so a 30 amp fuse would be way excessive & wouldn't protect it or its smaller gauge wiring. At the most, a 5 amp fuse is appropriate. My Uniden Pro520xl is protected by a 5 amp fuse
|03-25-2013 11:12 AM|
BTW the space for the radio is at least large enough to mount any of the full sized units on the market.......any suggestions on the full sized units? Do I need SSB for wheeling vs just the standard 40 CB channels??
|03-24-2013 04:03 PM|
|03-24-2013 10:57 AM|
What about this one??
So here is what I'm thinking about doing...........While it's kind of hard to see in the picture there is an overhead bar already installed for a previously installed radio. there is no wiring in place but I have since added a factory mirror with Compass/OAT and dome lights.
I'm thinking that I could just pull power from the mirror wioring harness that has both switched and unswitched power/ground already at the location.....any ideas on using this power with a small inline fuse or do I even need a fuse as the curcuit is already fused??
|03-24-2013 08:12 AM|
|03Ruth||As stated above a 30 amp fuse is way to big. I would use between a 2 & 5 amp fuse. I run a 3 amp. If you have a short with that 30 amp fuse it will fry your radio before that fuse blows.|
|03-24-2013 03:45 AM|
I mounted mine on the windshield right above the mirror and hardwired it to the battery with a 30A inline fuse. I dont like tapping other wiring and cutting into harnesses because you can very easily start to have issues with over loading the small wire gauge factories use.
|03-23-2013 10:17 PM|
|Hums99||I have mine wired into a Spare wire already behind the glove box. factory wire I believe it was blue/on with ignition, there was also another wire that was constant power.|
|03-23-2013 07:03 PM|
|03-23-2013 06:57 PM|
|Water Dog||A lot depends on where you want to mount it. CB radios take very little power, so most circuits that are already in the Jeep will handle the additional load. I mounted mine overhead so I wired it through the inline fuse and to the hot side of the dome light and grounded it to the metal inside the sound bar. If you mount it under the dash, in the dash, or on the console you could use the lighter circuit (but on mine that one's only hot when the ignition is), or go directly to the fuse box behind the glove compartment, or the battery if you're so inclined. My Uniden PRO510XL came with, I believe, a 3 amp fuse...if that. A 30 is way to big for a cb radio.|
|03-23-2013 06:45 PM|
|CountryBoyJeep||Normally you can just run cb's through your lighter outlet. Just google inline mini blade fuse, but heres a link to what to get http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pc...FQjf4AodajgA-A a 30=amp mini blade fuse will do fine. The fuse makes sure your equipment doesn't short circuit in the case of a power surge.|
|03-23-2013 06:45 PM|
|thedaringmove||Midland 1001 lwx is what I run. I highly recommend it with a firestik. Has PA and Weather function|
|03-23-2013 06:44 PM|
|03-23-2013 06:39 PM|
I'm looking at buying a cb radio for my jeep tj. I was thinking about the Uniden® PRO510XL Professional Mobile CB Radio. I understand how to mount the radio and the antenna, the thing I don't get is how to wire the radio to the battery.
I am thinking about an inline fuse? What is it and what does it do? And what size fuse do I use?
Any information or input will be appreciated