|11-25-2013 06:24 AM|
|SwampfoxSC||Chrysler quality at its finest|
|10-28-2013 07:17 AM|
That's great news. Glad that you finally got it fixed.
|10-26-2013 10:56 AM|
Ok all; I think we have found the issue!! After several more times to the shop and replacing all the electrical components (TIPM, PCM, etc.) we thought it was fixed!?! But after leaving the shop I drove to Little Rock and was entering the freeway and like a slap in the face it went "CRAZY" the lights, codes, radio everything went nuts! I drove straight back to the dealer and this time I went in the shop with them. As the tech plugged in his equipment and booted his computer all the codes were active and no reason as to why. Then he climbed into the driver’s seat reached for the tilt lever and raised the steering wheel up and everything CLEARED! We both looked at each other and said really!?! He then took the steering column apart and found a wiring harness with a quick connect plug that one of the pins wasn't snapped into place! After checking all the pins to ensure proper connection he put it back together and secured it with a zip tie for extra safety. This one little plug pin was causing just the right code to make the PCM and TIPM think there was multiple issues. I haven't had another problem since!
Thank you all for your help and I hope this information may help you as well...
|10-25-2013 07:44 AM|
As a few people have mentioned, grounds are as important as power feeds. So they need to be looked at closely to make sure that all points are connected as well as tight.
I'd be curious about what the battery voltage is when this happens. I would (this is just me because it's the way I'm wired) take my volt meter on the battery terminals and watch it as I'm attempting to start the vehicle. If the voltage drops below 10 volts, I'd then put a charger on for a while to get the vehicle started. Once it's started look at the meter and see if the running voltage is 14 (+). If not then I'd go to the alternator output and remeasure the voltage. Is it higher or the same as the battery reading? If it's higher at the alternator, then I'd be looking at the cable run from the alt to the battery, with the battery disconnected now measure the continuity of that cable, is it high resistance or low? Low is good (like 1 ohm and lower, really like .3 - .5 is where it should be).
If the alt output is the same as when measured at the battery, then I'd be considering having the dealer change out the alt. Now in a past vehicle that I had, the PCM regulated the alt output so this can also be a consideration.
These steps would be my starting points to diagnose the issue. I fully understand that the vehicle is new and is under warranty. My personal problem would come (and quite possibly knowing me before I went to the dealer) after the dealer attempted to diagnose and repair the vehicle, they couldn't and tried feeding me some BS. Now on the dealers behalf, I will say that intermittent electrical issues can be a total b***ch to chase down but as I have told customers when I was a tech "I'm not 100% sure that the issue is fixed, I did find this...... and made a repair which may have taken care of the issue, if not then please bring it back to further diagnose the issue". People understood and appreciated that type of response instead of "yeah we fixed it, because we can't get the issue to repeat itself". Yet a couple days later the issue is back.
Also when I'm going thru my process, I write down each result because this will help you to remember what you have tested and keep you from getting brain numbness from trying to remember what you've done but it will also help the tech if (when) you have to take it in.
|10-24-2013 05:39 PM|
|10-24-2013 02:45 PM|
|jasmyers1||Have the negative voltage checked. I had all sorts of error codes, starting issues and about 3 months of issues. Finally the dealer found a TSB about adding a secondary ground strap. Issue was resolved.|
|10-24-2013 01:41 PM|
I wonder how many members fell asleep and were late to go somewhere.
|10-24-2013 08:34 AM|
|autodigit||Wow, thats a great read, and excellent investigative work on your part. Good job!|
|10-24-2013 07:48 AM|
I will apologize in advance for the length of this posting but there was a lot involved with the issues that I was having and how I came fixing the problem:
We had a 2008 Chrysler mini van that seemed to be haunted, there were times that I'd be driving and the horn would start blaring, the wipers started stroking in fast mode and spraying. People would look at me like "what's your problem" (but only using a different choice of words). There were times when the AC would just cut out and then come on randomly, The engine would just die while driving. Other times, when I went to unlock the doors, the wipers would stoke and spray. Sometimes the vehicle would be parked in the driveway and the horn would just start blaring. (neighbors loved that). There were other things like sometimes when I unlocked the doors, the wipers would just move slightly.
I took it to the dealer a couple times with no conclusion of what the cause was because the vehicle worked fine for them.
After this happened a few more times, I went out and cleaned all the engine ground connections that I could fine as well as the battery connections. Drove it for about a month with no issues, thought I had it beat. Well one day driving on the freeway getting ready to go onto an off ramp, the vehicle died. I pulled over to the shoulder, turned the key off and then as many people do, got out, popped open the hood and jiggled a few things. Got back in and it started. Then the ghost reappeared from time, took it to the dealer again with them being no help at all again.
One hot day, I had the engine running but the AC fan motor wasn't blowing so I popped the hood and with the motor running, started looking for lose connections. I had bumped the main power lead post on the TPIM with my elbow and the motor stalled. Hmm, interesting. I started the motor again but this time the AC was working. Interesting, so I went back out an jiggled the battery feed main connection post, the cable connection was tight but the engine died when I wiggled it and then the horn started blaring away and the wipers started as I was also soaked by the sprayer.
Now feeling that I was onto something, I tried tightening the 12 mil nut that held the battery feed in place. It was tight, so I removed it, cleaned it and remounted it. Then while the motor was running and the AC on, I wiggled the connection again, Great, nothing shut off or started weirding out. (yeah, I know "weirding" isn't a real word), once again I felt good about possibly having fixed the problem. I would like to say that it was now cured but a few weeks later the demon reappeared.
This time I knew I had it narrowed down though. It appeared that there was a problem with the TPIM. Called the dealer to see what the cost would be to replace it, "oh about $700 and we'd have to order the part".
Ok, so I'm confident that the TPIM was the cause of the problem and it was already in need of replacement, I decided that I couldn't do any more damage to it. So I removed it and tore it apart looking at the 4 layers of circuit boards and post connections, thinking that I'd fine some arc marks from the connection breaking and then reconnecting. Everything looked good, now I concentrated on the cable stud connection to the circuit board. What I noticed was that the casing of the TPIM where the stud came up thru the circuit boards and stood there for the battery lead to connect to was keeping the battery lead from setting firmly down onto the circuit board. Even though the battery cable nut was tight, the small gap kind of caused the connection to be, well I say somewhat floating. You see the stud has to come thru each the circuit boards which had a small steel plate to touch the next board. With the cable eye not setting down firmly the top circuit board wasn't forced with downward pressure to the next board.
Well, now I decided to break out the dremel tool and grind the casing down so the eyelet would set firmly in place. I also decided that because the top 2 circuit boards really didn't set with great confidence, meaning that the steel piece on the back of the 1st board that was supposed to make contact to the 2nd board just looked light to me, there was enough room there for me to slide a thin washer between the 2 boards. I then reassembled the TPIM (along with a few choice words here and there, because each board had several alignment pins that had to slide into place on the next board).
Watching as each piece went together and feeling good about finding this defect and that I may have just saved myself $700.
Got it all back together, mounted and connected. I'm glad to say that having had driven the van for another 2 1/2 years before we sold it, there was never another issue with powered items.
I apologize again for the length of this post and for anyone that feel asleep while reading it. I not saying that anyone should tare into the TPIM, but it may be a good starting place for the "tech?" to check out.
|10-24-2013 06:57 AM|
What the hell could they have even been thinking? Hey, The jeep won't start so lets replace the hands free module" yeah that sounds good. Freeking idiots. Also, if there was a broken post, they could have wiggled it and caused problems to prove it out or not.
When it doesn't start, does anything else power up or is the vehicle completely dead?
|10-23-2013 06:34 PM|
|Maxcow||Bought Jeep Wrangler Unlimited (2013) in May. Several times, always when I don't start it for a day, it will not start. Acts like a dead battery & when I jump it, it starts. Had it to dealer 3 times. They replaced the entire UConnect System but that hasn't taken care of the problem. Had them to replace the battery 2 days ago thinking it could be a broken battery post. Has anyone else had this problem?|
|10-16-2013 09:54 AM|
|Lusus_Naturae||^ Give the battery a check on that one. The A/C is probably not related, more likely the known issue. The headlight flicker could be a weak battery, loose wire, etc. You aren't running aftermarket head lights right?|
|10-15-2013 11:31 AM|
I have only had the A/C blower issue and I notice that my headlights waver slightly.
Firehawk do you think this could be related to the same issue? I have a 2013 JK too.
|10-07-2013 10:55 PM|
|sem7||Had a similar problem on my 2012 JK. Engine sputter, loss power, lights on dash flashing. Was a loose ground wire to the ABS system. 2 months now and no problems.|
|10-07-2013 09:01 PM|
|Rockriver6||I am having issues with my new Rubicon as well. 2013 model 1300 miles about 40 days old. First dome light did not work with the door open, then horn not working, then front turn signals, then check engine light came on, parked it at the dealership. Not a happy camper. First payment due soon.|
|07-20-2013 05:21 PM|
loose ground strap
hi, sounds like a loose ground strap, you may wish to take your Jeep
to another dealer or get the zone service manager involved..the loose ground will not throw a error code, to the OBDII port that is why your shop
is having a problem with the fix! you need to find a old tech that has worked on jeeps for 20++ years.. all the best I know what it's like to have
inter-mittent issues..I had a Ford some years ago and it took 3 dealer shops to get it solved..good luck with it...
|07-20-2013 04:52 AM|
|Lusus_Naturae||The a/c stopping few a few seconds and then coming on again is a known issue with no known fix yet. Mine was doing when I started running the A/C this spring, I had it do it about 2-4 times, I can't remember now. Strangely enough, it hasn't done it recently, but I'm sure it will now that I said that. My dealer took a report, but I didn't let him keep it for extended testing. He said he hasn't seen it before - that's not saying much considering how many people either ignore it or didn't notice it.|
|07-20-2013 12:06 AM|
|ffbubba252||Wellll I would love to tell you they fixed it but they didn't officially. They also never replaced anything. Since they couldnt find anything they couldnt "fix" anything. All they really did was check the wiring to see if anything was loose. I think they thought I was crazy. lol it has happened 5 times, only once with the fan blowing hard. All other times with lights flashing. It only happens after a cold start. When I go to get in, no lights come on. I try to start it and nothing. Also, after is has sat for a bit it will start. It did happen once at one of the dealerships so they know there is definitely an issue. It has happened 5 times: 1st time blowing hard, lights flashing, then started when the tow truck got there. 2nd-it happened again at the dealership when it got towed. The 3rd time it wouldnt start - and after opening and closing the door hoping I would shake whatever wire or ?? was loose (if thats the case) it started about 10 minutes later. The 4th time which was the next morning, it didnt start no matter how many times I jiggled things. Called the wrecker. It started by the time they got there. They didnt find anything after a week. The last time it happened, it started after about 5 minutes of jiggling. didnt even call it in...DISGUSTED!! Does yours when blowing a/c all of a sudden stop and then start again - the a/c blower fan I mean? I've noticed mine has done that several times. You can call Greenville TX Chrysler 903-454-0283 ask for Gary, and tell him the girl with the white jeep ya'll had for two weeks. He'll know who it is. lol The check engine light would come on but they would say it didnt pull up any codes...which was weird to me. I would ask your guy to call them and see if there are any codes matching. It had to show something i would think....|
|07-13-2013 08:34 PM|
I just saw your post, and can't believe you got yours back!! I have had the same issue and it's still in the shop! I have a 2012 Sport and I picked it up after an oil change and the same thing happened, fan took off and all the lights and codes! Well after three times to the shop, they have replaced the TIPM, PCM and the control module! I thought it was fixed until Thursday and it wouldn't start again so another wrecker ride to the dealer! If I may ask did they give you any explanation or what did they replace? Also can you tell me the dealer that fixed yours, I would like to have my dealer contact them so maybe they can fix mine! I have a jeep vacation ride to Florida planned and really want to take my JEEP!
Thanks for any help...
|04-05-2013 12:23 AM|
Update to Electrical Issues
I got my Jeep back on Tuesday -15 days after it went in. The diagnosis? "We don't really know what it was, something in the electrical but we think we have it fixed". lol, well they said it wasn't doing it anymore and I don't know how many times it actually did it besides the once for me and one time that I know of at the dealer. They are mailing me all of the paperwork. If it has anything in it of interest, I will post here. For now, I am going to enjoy having it back and hope it was just something that just didnt get plugged in all the way or tightened up or whatever.
|03-28-2013 11:17 PM|
|ffbubba252||Will do.....I am getting a bit nervous as I drove through the parking lot of the dealership today and noticed there were several Wranglers with the Recovered Vehicle Lemon Law sticker on them - EEK!!! As soon as I hear something, I will post. It didn't look like it had been moved in the last two days - I drive by and can see it from the road to and from work everyday. :-(|
|03-28-2013 12:31 AM|
|Lusus_Naturae||Give us a follow up too, always good to have the reason known.|
|03-27-2013 06:12 PM|
|ffbubba252||Thanks, I'll check those, it wasnt the horn blowing but the fan that sounded really loud...but you never know what might be related!! Thanks again!!|
|03-26-2013 02:33 AM|
There are various threads regarding odd honking. You may want to do a search on horn honking and take a look. It could be a bad TPIM. You can also search tpim. Could also be the clock spring, but this is off the top of my head.
|03-26-2013 01:59 AM|
2013 JKU electrical issues?
Last Monday, 8 days ago, I went to start my jeep to go to work. It ran between 5-10 seconds and a fan started blowing really hard and loud. I looked down at my dash and it was flashing like a disco. I immediately killed it. My husband checked under the hood. Didnt see anything unusual and told me to try to start it. I did and it only had the lights on when you first start it. Not all of the regular lights that normally flash upon starting and it would not start. No clicking or anything. Got roadside assistance to come pick it up. The wrecker guy couldnt load it due to it's location so my husband tried to start it. It did but the check engine light was on. They loaded it on the tow truck and took it to the dealership (not where I bought it since it was too far away.) They checked the code and said it didnt lead to anything. Fortunately, when they went to move it to check on another vehicle, it did the same thing to them. They since have not found anything and have (they said) had various mechanics check it out. Anyone else have this or heard of it? Its a 2013 Sport U with less than 2500 miles on it. Nothing added to it. (YET!) I havent even made the first payment on it! Fortunately I argued them into a free rental as I commute 100 miles per day. Please help! I want my Jeep back!