|03-29-2013 09:49 AM|
Just seal up the connect and guy some solid shafts from a non disco 44 from pirate or something. There are write ups online for how to take care of the disco.
|03-29-2013 12:24 AM|
|bigtoysforbigboys||Lol...I've been looking for a solid axel ....but hey I got the Jeep for an absolute steal and it'll work for now|
|03-29-2013 12:22 AM|
|AZ WRANGLER||I'm not saying thats a bad axle, just better without the 2 pc shaft and vacuum connect. It is certainly better than having the D30 axle!|
|03-28-2013 11:55 PM|
|bigtoysforbigboys||Why you ask....because I bought my Jeep and it already had d44 front vacuum setup on it|
|03-28-2013 11:45 PM|
|AZ WRANGLER||You could put a cable on it, but like Golden said, why bother when you can get them without that vacuum POS. Its basically connecting the 2 piece shaft inside. Mine are MUCH stronger and reliable now without all that.|
|03-28-2013 11:39 PM|
|bigtoysforbigboys||So why not just do away with the vacuum setup and install the manual cable lock or the electronic locker?|
|03-28-2013 11:28 PM|
Can be weaker and are a 2 piece shaft inside the tube I believe. I don't know about these specific 44s, but I know on a yj d30 w/ a disconnect you can just remove/weld over the disconnect portion and seal it, and replace the shafts w/ tj shafts. Same with the xj hp shafts pre 96. I assume you could do the same thing with non disco waggy 44 shafts etc but why go to all that trouble if you can just get a non disco first?
|03-28-2013 11:23 PM|
|bigtoysforbigboys||What's wrong with d44 with the vacuum setup?|
|03-28-2013 11:02 PM|
|YJ325i||I appreciate this thread, I had not considered axles from a grand waggie. I assumed only d44's from an XJ or TJ would fit.|
|03-27-2013 04:20 PM|
I paid $500 for mine. Sounds like a good deal to me!
Make sure that vacuum disconnect is NOT on it. You might double check the width of axles. They should be within an inch or so of what your stock ones are.
|03-27-2013 03:26 PM|
|03-27-2013 03:21 PM|
They look fine to me, I don't see a vacuum disconnect on the front axle? The ones to stay away from have the vacuum disconnect on the front axle, just like your stock Front axle has. Double check them before buying
|03-27-2013 02:23 PM|
I'm following your build...I would like to do the same thing to my Jeep and get rid of the stock axles. I found these on CL..Haven't talked to the guy yet, but by the pic can you tell if these are the ones to stay away from?
Dana 44s Jeep
|03-27-2013 10:11 AM|
To be honest that looks awesome thanks for sharing the install and the information I will be doing something very similar once I get my Rodeo Rear Axle installed.
|03-27-2013 12:34 AM|
Compressor hook up
I got the new ARB dual compressor. It supposed to be able to run air tools. Its big and presented a problem on were to mount it. I considered putting it under the passenger seat, but its pretty loud and I wasn't sure how long it ran for during a cycle. Turns out it only runs for a few seconds and should only cycle about every 10-15 minutes. Oh well, I already mounted it under the hood...
Since the stock jack was gone off the inside fender, I decided to put it there. Wiring was a snap since its right next to the battery. I built a little platform for it, including a heat sheild. Turned out nice. Running the air lines was pretty easy. So was the wiring. Compliments to ARB for making it easy!
|03-26-2013 11:56 PM|
Here are some more pics along with the important details...
Part of the front axle housing will have to sit on the drivers side spring. You will have to drill a hole in the bottom of the tube sleeve to allow the spring bolt to fit in. I didn't get a picture of this prior to install, but you can see in the pics where the housing rests on the spring.
You will also have to grind away the top part of the support ridge to allow the u-bolt to sit flush. Its smart to leave just a little ridge on the outside of the u-bolt to keep it from sliding off. This u-bolt is 3 5/8 in width to fit around the housing. See pic.
You have to get all new 3" u-bolts to fit over the axle tubes. Now is a good time to upgrade them to 5/8". Also, the u-bolt that fits over the housing is 3 5/8". You need new spring plates too. I managed to find some at the axle shop to fit 3 of corners. But the one for under the housing on the front spring had to be custom made. Measure twice, cut once!
|03-26-2013 10:13 AM|
Waggy Dana 44 install
Why not go to junk yard and pull it yourself?
|03-26-2013 12:49 AM|
|1BadAssJeep||That's awesome man. That's exactly what I want to do with my 88. I've been looking on Craigslist forever trying to find those axles with no luck.|
|03-26-2013 12:21 AM|
Waggy Dana 44 install, ARB locked and loaded!
So, I finally got the $$$ and the time to do my axle swap! I have had a set of axles off a Grand Wagoneer sitting in my garage for 2 years. I picked them up off craigs list for $500.
I did an engine swap last spring and have managed not to break the stock D30/35 axles. It was tough! All that power and no way to get it to the ground!
Its important to get the correct donor vehicle. Most of the 1980-89 Wagoneer axles are usable, but a couple years had the dreaded "C" clip axle and vacuum disconnect. Stay away from those years , you should be able to tell by looking at the front axle. It will have a similar set up to the YJ front axle. STAY AWAY from that axle!
I had a local shop completely tear them down, new bearings, seals, and of course gears! I put in ARB lockers, both front and back. More on that later...
You do not have to shorten the axels, they are almost the same size as the stock D30/35. The perches have to be cut off and re-welded, and you have to do some custom work on the front pumpkin. More on that later...
I also installed a new 6" Rough Country lift.
I will post some pics and more detail. Let the questions begin!
PS- My engine swap: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f8/95-y...-141156-7.html