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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-04-2013 01:49 AM
RUBI 4 MY MRS It does seem like the cluster could be bad. I have read where the all 8s happens but don’t recall seeing any fixes. You might try searching that. I would check both connectors on the back of the cluster to make sure they are making proper connections.

Then there is what is called an actuator test. It tests the cluster functions including the display. To do the test you hold the odometer reset button down & turn the key on & release the button. It will do a bunch of “teats” & report error messages if any.

If you get the odometer working & still have the dome/courtesy light problem there might be a work around for that.

The CEL flashing is actually not normal. You may have to search that as well.
04-03-2013 08:08 PM
anomaly117
Quote:
Originally Posted by RUBI 4 MY MRS View Post
OK, a couple questions. When you got it the fuse (26) was removed? The odometer worked? Did the odometer start showing all 8s when you put the fuse in? If so if you remove the fuse is the odometer back to working as it should? When you get all 8s, does everything else in the cluster work as it should (gauges, warning lights, etc.)?
When I got it fuse 26 was removed, the odometer was working fine, other than intermittently flashing "noFUSE". I don't remember if fuse 4 was in or out to be honest. It started showing all 8's before i put fuse 26 back in. It stays all 8's, fuse or not, however, the "noFUSE" goes away with the fuse in which makes sense. When I put the fuse in, I have all 8's, but the CEL starts to flash (normally) and I get some dinging noises. Without the fuse, no dinging, no CEL, but I still get the air bag and "check gauges" light. The rest of the gauges work with no problem (speedo, tach, gas, etc.)

A friend of mine said it may sound like a bad cluster, but I want to explore every option and get every opinion I can.
04-03-2013 06:01 PM
RUBI 4 MY MRS OK, a couple questions. When you got it the fuse (26) was removed? The odometer worked? Did the odometer start showing all 8s when you put the fuse in? If so if you remove the fuse is the odometer back to working as it should? When you get all 8s, does everything else in the cluster work as it should (gauges, warning lights, etc.)?
04-03-2013 05:49 PM
anomaly117 Removed fuse four after replacing fuse 26, all lights still on and odometer is still all 8's. Getting pretty flustered.
03-31-2013 01:54 PM
RUBI 4 MY MRS OK so fuse 26 was removed? Fuse 26 powers the interior lighting. The courtesy lights & dome lights are on that circuit (for power) but use a separate ground that works off the door switches. They are staying on because you have the circuit grounded somewhere where it shouldn't be. To keep those lights from staying on when the doors are removed they use fuse 4 in the fuse block in the ground path. Removing that fuse is supposed to open the ground path & keep the lights off. Try removing that fuse & see if the lights go off. That will help determine where that grounding is happening.

Is the odometer still reading all 8s? The dome/courtesy light grounding circuit goes through the cluster for a delay before going off when the doors are closed so there could be some problem there.
03-31-2013 11:38 AM
anomaly117 Ok, replaced fuse 18, cigarette lighter outlet works again. Fuse 4 is fine. Fuse 26 is the one I replaced for the doors, and the lights still will not go off.
03-31-2013 11:13 AM
anomaly117 Thanks, I'll check both fuses for the outlets, didnt know they were seperate circuits.

I'll follow up on the lights too, not sure which fuse was actually pulled, I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks again for the insight.
03-31-2013 02:36 AM
RUBI 4 MY MRS The 2 outlets are on different fuses. The cig lighter socket (on only with key on) is on fuse 18 in the fuse block behind the glove box. The power outlet which has power on all the time is on fuse 17 in the PDC in front of the battery. Both are powered directly from their fuses with nothing else on either circuit. If either pops their fuse with nothing in the socket, the socket itself may be shorted but not likely. Be sure whatever you are plugging into them is not either shorted out or overloading the circuit. When the power outlet fuse popped as soon as you put it in, was anything plugged into that socket?

The fuse for the courtesy lights off when the doors are open or doors removed is fuse 4 in the fuse block. Is that the fuse you put in that is keeping the lights on with the doors closed?
03-30-2013 07:32 PM
anomaly117
A couple electrical issues

Hey guys, I'm still a relatively new Jeep owner and I have a couple issues with my 06 X.

First, I'll start by letting you know, the dome lights have never worked, I figured the fuse was pulled to remove the doors.

So, issue number one, the fuse for my power outlets popped, but the outlets didn't die at the same time. When my live outlet popped, the acc outlet hadnt yet. I unplugged what i had in the acc outlet to check the live outlet, which wasn't working. When I plugged it back into the acc outlet, it had stopped working. I thought the intermittance was pretty strange.

When I got home, I popped the hood. The 20A fuse for the outlets had indeed blown. When I replaced the fuse, it popped again IMMEDIATELY. So question number one, any pattern failures that would cause this circuit to start to randomly short?

Next up, while i was under the hood I figured I'd test my interior lights theory. I put a fuse in the slot for what i guessed was for the lights, they came on, and they stayed on. When the doors were shut, when the hood was shut, with the key in the run position and with the engine running. So any ideas what would cause them to stay on? Is there a manual switch that I just can't seem to find?

Finally, my odometer suddenly started reading 888888 across the board, i'm only at about 59k miles.

Any ideas?? I appreciate any help you guys can give me. Thanks.

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