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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-07-2013 09:23 PM
BLK00TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman View Post
I will check the tires. Could the tires cause vibration that increases with throttle response?
Not normally, but u-joints can cause it.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman View Post
How do you drive with the rear shaft removed? 4x4 hi? Will this hurt anything?
Not at all. I drove back and forth to work 45 miles a day for two weeks waiting to get my spot in the garage to have my rearend rebuilt without a rear driveshaft and it 4h.
04-07-2013 08:29 PM
WVU Mountainman I will check the tires. Could the tires cause vibration that increases with throttle response?

How do you drive with the rear shaft removed? 4x4 hi? Will this hurt anything?
04-07-2013 08:17 PM
GoldenSahara00 try removing each shaft front and rear and driving a short distance?

Tires are definitely worn even, balanced, etc. with equal pressure?
04-07-2013 08:03 PM
WVU Mountainman I'm positive this is a driveline issue. At 10-15 mph i get a wobble / chatter feeling in the seats. My angles are good, u joints replaced in rear driveshaft, new trans mount what am I missing what could cause this. Gets more pronounced under heavy acceleration.
04-03-2013 12:15 PM
WVU Mountainman Throughout the tub. Seats vibrate Non of this happened until I put the new coils on. Only under heavy acceleration or turnin slowly up a hill. It definitely is relate to throttle input
04-03-2013 12:13 PM
GoldenSahara00 Tires balanced and worn evenly? Is the wobble felt more in the steering wheel than the tub or vice versa?

U joints in the DS could just be bad like Ron said.
04-03-2013 12:13 PM
WVU Mountainman
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLK00TJ View Post
What shape are the u-joints in now?
All tight. I just replaced with new spicers less than 100 miles on them
04-03-2013 12:12 PM
WVU Mountainman Yes sir. Replaced before everything else. Nothing wrong with the stock one but replaced anyway
04-03-2013 12:09 PM
Patrick H
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman
TC output 8.5*
DS 13*
Pinion 9*

This is after removing the TC skid drop. I am still getting a wobble under heavy acceleration. What would cause this? What can I do to fix?
Those angles are great. Wobble? Have you checked the trans. Mount?
04-03-2013 12:08 PM
BLK00TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman View Post
TC output 8.5*
DS 13*
Pinion 9*

This is after removing the TC skid drop. I am still getting a wobble under heavy acceleration. What would cause this? What can I do to fix?
What shape are the u-joints in now?
04-03-2013 12:05 PM
WVU Mountainman TC output 8.5*
DS 13*
Pinion 9*

This is after removing the TC skid drop. I am still getting a wobble under heavy acceleration. What would cause this? What can I do to fix?
04-02-2013 11:05 AM
WVU Mountainman I will update everyone after I look over everything tonight.
04-02-2013 11:04 AM
WVU Mountainman Thank you everyone for the help on this issue.
04-02-2013 08:14 AM
GoldenSahara00 So inspecting the control arms may not have been such a bad idea? Hmmmm, if only someone had suggested that!



Good to see your getting this problem solved. Double check that your tcase is bolted to your skid, and address the CA bolts as BLK00TJ detailed to you. Remove the tcase drop as well and see where that puts your angles.
04-01-2013 08:24 PM
WVU Mountainman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post

Not sure really. Some, I reckon, but that looks like a lot. If that is what happened, I have to wonder if the bushings are damaged now.
Could be. Ill check everything out tomorrow
04-01-2013 07:58 PM
Patrick H
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman View Post
If the control arms truly were bound could this have actually kept the springs from bearing the full rear vehicle weight? Then once unbound kind of made everything seat into place?
Not sure really. Some, I reckon, but that looks like a lot. If that is what happened, I have to wonder if the bushings are damaged now.
04-01-2013 07:58 PM
BLK00TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman View Post
If the control arms truly were bound could this have actually kept the springs from bearing the full rear vehicle weight? Then once unbound kind of made everything seat into place?
Yep. That's what we've been trying to say but you just said yourself better.
04-01-2013 07:52 PM
WVU Mountainman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post
It's obvious in the last pic that the transfer case is too low. I wonder what changed..
If the control arms truly were bound could this have actually kept the springs from bearing the full rear vehicle weight? Then once unbound kind of made everything seat into place?
04-01-2013 07:38 PM
Patrick H It's obvious in the last pic that the transfer case is too low. I wonder what changed..
04-01-2013 07:30 PM
WVU Mountainman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post
Looks like the rear control arms are at a much lesser angle after, meaning the rear of the Jeep isn't sitting nearly as high as it was before.
That's exactly what I was thinking. I have no idea what changed. The stance is still the same as before wheeling. I hit some pretty steep hill climbs with rough approaches but nothing extreme. I had my 2 young sons and wife with me. I noticed way more vibes on the way home and investigated today and that is what I found.
04-01-2013 07:23 PM
Patrick H Looks like the rear control arms are at a much lesser angle after, meaning the rear of the Jeep isn't sitting nearly as high as it was before.
04-01-2013 07:22 PM
Patrick H Wow, something drastically changed.
04-01-2013 07:22 PM
BLK00TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post
No need to raise it up. Just loosen all the control arm bolts and re-torque.
That'll work and if it is as I suspect he'll hear the bushing pop as it springs back. But then again, it might have done that while he was wheeling.
04-01-2013 07:18 PM
WVU Mountainman
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patrick H View Post
Where exactly are you measuring? Like I said, my drive shaft is about 16-17 degrees.
TC output u joint
Center of driveshaft
Pinion u joint

Here are pics before and after wheeling. Sorry pics are kinda crummy.
04-01-2013 07:16 PM
Patrick H No need to raise it up. Just loosen all the control arm bolts and re-torque.
04-01-2013 07:15 PM
Patrick H Where exactly are you measuring? Like I said, my drive shaft is about 16-17 degrees.
04-01-2013 07:14 PM
WVU Mountainman
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLK00TJ View Post
They can if they are torqued down the way they should as the axle was hanging. After you remove the TC drop, get the frame up in the air to take a little weight off of the tires. Then loosen the rear control arm bolts and put the weight back on the tires. Then go back and torque all back to spec. Make sure you get all 8 of them. If you want you can do the same with the front.
If I do the same with the front will I mess up the alignment? I had this done as soon as I put the springs on.
04-01-2013 07:13 PM
Patrick H TC output 10*
Driveshaft 8.5*
Pinion 8.0*

According to this, you need to raise the transfer case back up. I don't know how you could get the drive shaft within 1/2 degree of the pinion. That's double cardan acceptable angles. 8 degrees pinion angle is pretty flat for 2" lift.
04-01-2013 07:12 PM
BLK00TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by WVU Mountainman View Post
This is so weird that this could happen. The pinion angle looks so much lower. Could the control arms really hold the stock angle that well if not loosened?
They can if they are torqued down the way they should as the axle was hanging. After you remove the TC drop, get the frame up in the air to take a little weight off of the tires. Then loosen the rear control arm bolts and put the weight back on the tires. Then go back and torque all back to spec. Make sure you get all 8 of them. If you want you can do the same with the front.
04-01-2013 07:08 PM
WVU Mountainman Also should I go around and loosen all the rear CA's then retighten?
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