|04-01-2013 05:17 PM|
|Lt. Ray T.||Yea, I have considered the solid axle swap. Heck my drive shaft spins with the aussie locker now, so I already had it balanced. I Just like the disconect option. Well, I suppose I have some deciding to do, however, either way, I have to change that seal out. And considering it would be best to pull the chunk, I may as well change the driver side while I am in there... Thanks for the help.|
|04-01-2013 04:32 PM|
|OverkillYJ||if you are thinking of durability in the long run then just look up the write ups for solid axle swaps.|
|04-01-2013 01:36 PM|
|Redrider94||Have you tried looking online? You should be able to find instructions with google.|
|04-01-2013 12:47 PM|
You could, but it would be very difficult since you would need to make something to let you press in the seal from the outside of the passenger side. The normal way to press in the seal is actually to put something through that will reach from the driver side and then tap it in. The CAD housing does not have enough room for you to press the seal in from there. So the normal way is to remove both axles, and the carrier in order to pop in the seal. I have seen people though that made a threaded shaft with a fat washer on the ends. They put that in place and then tighten it on the outside of the passenger tube to pull the seal into place. IMO its not worth it. Here is why.
Your seal is bad because crap got into your axle tube and rubbed up on it until it crapped out. Crap got in there because the plastic end from the factory is a POS joke that doesnt protect anything very long at all. You probably have seen the greasable axle tube seals to keep crap out of your tubes, and those are awesome! One big problem though, your passenger side disco axle will not work with them. No company that I found makes on that will. Two reasons, the passenger side is thicker, and it wiggles more which would destroy a seal if they made it. So what I did was a solid axle swap. Works perfect, but does spin the chain in my TC since I have a Spartan up front. So I never have to worry about 4X4 working, it only cost me $20 for the shaft on Craigslist, and I now have greasable seals to stop the inner seals at the differential housing from crapping out again.
If you do this there are a couple things to make sure of first. Make sure your driveshaft U-Joints are good up front. Also make sure your front driveshaft is strait and balanced. Normally it makes no difference, but since it would spin at 50MPH with a solid axle it then does make a difference.
It is as hard to swap in a solid shaft as it is to replace the CAD seal. Only costs about $20 more. At lease near me anyway. I see passenger side shaft on CL regularly for real cheap. Just dont let it sit too long or your brakes will get contaminated with oil when your driving and then your jeep will pull to one side when you hit the brakes.
|04-01-2013 10:57 AM|
|Lt. Ray T.||
Axle Seal question
Have been poking around in here for a few days now, looking for threads on Axle Seal replacement and have not had any luck finding what I am looking for.
I have a 88 YJ with the D30 up front. I have re-geared to 4.56 and have installed an Aussie locker, however, am still running stock axle setup with the disconnect.
My passenger (Disconnect) side axle seal is leaking. Not bad, but enough to drip on the pavement a bit when parked for a day. I hate the drips, and rather fix something than let it go so I am trying to figure out how to change this.
I recently moved and can't find my Haynes which sucks, but I am sure I will run across it soon, but in the mean time any suggestions.
I was told I would have to pull the chunk out of the front end which I understand if it were the driver side, but what I have found suggests the seal is on the wheel side of the disconnect, therefore, could I just pull the wheel bearing, axle, and CAD housing and be able to get to and change that seal, or am I missing something?
Any help here is greatly appreciated.