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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-12-2013 04:47 PM
Parsonsm Success, turns out I did have a loose ground wire under the dash near the steering column. Secured that and everything fell into place. Sounds pretty good too. Thanks for all the help and advice guys I could not have done it without you.
04-11-2013 10:07 PM
cchartrand Ok. Sounds like you're ready to pull your hair out. Don't. I also have an 04' and if my sub never worked again I wouldn't cry. It sucks. If all your other speakers work, and sound good, epic win for you. Now go buy a real sub and small amp, wire it up from scratch, and thank me for it. It wasn't till I got my build sheet that I realized that slight vibration In my right leg WAS a sub. Take that stock sub setup into a field, and stomp it Office Space style! Just a thought.
04-11-2013 08:19 PM
Parsonsm Yes, checked all the fuses and they are fine. On,y looked st the ones behind the glove box, if there are others I should check, please advise. Thanks.
04-11-2013 07:40 PM
Jamey62 I put a new sub in my 04 and got nothing when I turned it on. Took it apart and put it back together twice before it occurred to me it might be a fuse. I think it may have been a 20 amp, but whoever had it before me had removed the fuse completely to disable the sub, so it was just an empty slot. Popped on a fuse and voila, problem solved. All the other speakers don't run through the factory amp, because my system sounded fine without the sub, it's just much better with it!
04-11-2013 07:33 PM
Parsonsm Sorry, meant to say I am replacing the sub which is why I have the whole thing torn apart right now. The old speaker was blown. Hopefully this will work and I can move on to the next thing.
04-11-2013 07:32 PM
Parsonsm Yes, the speakers worked fine even with the sub unplugged. Also, I am replacing the amp speaker itself with a new one. Thanks for the tip on the grounding location, I will look for it tomorrow and check the ground. Would be a blessing if the solution was this simple.
04-11-2013 06:19 PM
BigCrave
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mosesman18 View Post
It sounds like the amp is working if the other speaker s are playing because they all go through factory amp. That's not a guarantee though, have you pulled the sub to look at it?
Easy way to check the sub is to see if it moves freely, most subs when they blow will stop moving freely.
All the speakers do not go "through" the amp. The amp is connected to all four speakers on the input side, but not on the output side.
04-11-2013 06:17 PM
BigCrave Ground wire should be grounded between the 4wd selectorand the shifter on drivers side beneath the console.
04-11-2013 06:08 PM
Mosesman18 It sounds like the amp is working if the other speaker s are playing because they all go through factory amp. That's not a guarantee though, have you pulled the sub to look at it?
Easy way to check the sub is to see if it moves freely, most subs when they blow will stop moving freely.
04-11-2013 06:00 PM
Parsonsm Yea, if this one is not working I will put in an aftermarket. The PO said it stopped working about 3 years back but he put so much aftermarket stuff in I am thinking he clipped or knocked the ground off. The stereo works fine so I know it is grounded OK. Not looking forward to tracing this thing which is why i was asking if anyone knew where the harness was grounded.
04-11-2013 05:35 PM
n00g7 Cool. If you need a factory sub/amp thing I'll send one to you at cost of shipping. Personally though, if my amp were busted, I'd get an aftermarket one.
04-11-2013 05:23 PM
Parsonsm Yes, when they are apart it says 1. This is good because I read on another post where the issue a guy was having with the sub was a bad ground. At least I may be on the right track. Thanks.
04-11-2013 05:21 PM
n00g7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parsonsm View Post
When together it is like .056 or something but when I put the red on the harness ground and the black on the chassis ground i get 1.

If you hold the probes apart and it also says "1" you don't have a ground connection. To fix, trace that wire back to where it came from, e.g., the radio. Put the tester on either end of that wire and make sure you get a reading (e.g., those two points are connected) and then keep tracing back. When you test across two points that ARE NOT connected (e.g., the connection failure point, if that's what it is), you can simply ground those end points individually to the chassis.
04-11-2013 04:49 PM
Parsonsm When together it is like .056 or something but when I put the red on the harness ground and the black on the chassis ground i get 1.
04-11-2013 03:52 PM
n00g7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parsonsm View Post
Ok, tested the way you said and getting a value of 1.

For which setting? If you contact the leads together does it read 1 or does it read 1 if you have them separate?
04-11-2013 03:47 PM
Parsonsm Ok, tested the way you said and getting a value of 1.
04-11-2013 03:19 PM
n00g7
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parsonsm View Post
N00g7,

Ok, this is what I did. Set to continuity with key in the on position. Placed the red on the constant 12 V and switched with black on the chassis got a reading of .87. With the red on either 12V and the black on the negative in the harness got a reading of 1. Am I doing this right?

No.

On continuity setting, the ---|)|--- looking thing:
12pin (ground) on harness goes to red lead
Chassis (ground) goes to black lead -- btw, you have to make sure you find a spot that isn't painted.
It should beep or tell you something IF that pin is coupled to ground, which it should be. You can check what its function would be by just touching the red and black probes together.

Same setup for Ohms, but your reading should be around .0X
04-11-2013 02:57 PM
Parsonsm N00g7,

Ok, this is what I did. Set to continuity with key in the on position. Placed the red on the constant 12 V and switched with black on the chassis got a reading of .87. With the red on either 12V and the black on the negative in the harness got a reading of 1. Am I doing this right?
04-11-2013 02:35 PM
n00g7 Switch your multimeter to the continuity setting (the line with a triangle) turn the key and probe the 12pin and chassis. If it beeps you're good. Alternatively, if you don't have continuity (some POS multimeters don't have), switch to Ohm's in auto, and probe chassis and the 12 pin. It should be non-zero but small, like .01-.05 ohms. If either of those readouts occur, you're properly grounded.
04-11-2013 02:19 PM
Parsonsm I meant ground wire is loose.
04-11-2013 02:17 PM
Parsonsm Ok, may be on to something here. I went back and tested the sub plug (coming from the dash) with a multimeter. This time instead of putting the ground lead on the chassis, I put it on the #12 pin and got no reading. This makes me think the ground to the plug is loose. Before I rip my jeep apart, does anyone know where this is grounded?
04-10-2013 07:46 AM
Parsonsm Ok. Will check that when I get home.
04-10-2013 06:31 AM
Wattapunk
Have you tried testing the blown sub by hooking directly to the JVC? There's a chance the amp is blown.
But if you are getting 12V to pin 5 and 6, you can check the speaker output by take a speaker and tap into pin 1 and 2 wiring which is the rt front output.
04-10-2013 06:17 AM
Parsonsm Are there any other settings on the head unit I should check that could have an impact?
04-10-2013 05:10 AM
Neil F.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnnybonkel View Post
Obvious but stranger things have happened...have you gone through the menu section on the head unit and checked that the sub level is not just turned down or that fade is not adjusted incorrectly...just a thought.

He is using the stock sub which uses speaker level inputs. The head unit output to the sub is not being used therefore the sub volume would not matter.
04-09-2013 10:15 PM
Johnnybonkel
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parsonsm View Post
OK, I tested the sub plug (the one coming out near the shifter). Had solid 12V power to the one hot wire and the remote wire gave me just under 12V with the ignition on and 0V with it off. So, I know power is coming from the remote on to the sub, now how to I confirm if the amp is generating any power to the speaker or if the amp is even on?
Obvious but stranger things have happened...have you gone through the menu section on the head unit and checked that the sub level is not just turned down or that fade is not adjusted incorrectly...just a thought.
04-09-2013 02:01 PM
Parsonsm OK, I tested the sub plug (the one coming out near the shifter). Had solid 12V power to the one hot wire and the remote wire gave me just under 12V with the ignition on and 0V with it off. So, I know power is coming from the remote on to the sub, now how to I confirm if the amp is generating any power to the speaker or if the amp is even on?
04-09-2013 09:16 AM
Parsonsm Ok, will give that a try after lunch and see what I come up with. Thanks and will get back with the results.
04-09-2013 08:31 AM
Wattapunk
Quote:
Originally Posted by Parsonsm View Post
Ok, I have a digital meter, what do I set it to? Also, again, what does the sub harness (the side that feeds up through the dash) connect to?
Set it to DC 20V(or any value above 12V). The harness should connect to the sub and the other speakers. Keep the connector connected at the radio end and unplugged at the sub end when you probe for 12V. Touch the red probe to the terminals and touch the black probe to a any good ground.
04-09-2013 07:03 AM
Parsonsm Ok, I have a digital meter, what do I set it to? Also, again, what does the sub harness (the side that feeds up through the dash) connect to?
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