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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-24-2013 01:03 PM
AngryTJ pic in the daylight

Inner fenders

First pics from the new Canon Rebel t3i! Excuse the lack of hood pins and few other items in these pics









Got a few little things done last night:
Installed the hood pins and front signal lights

Rewired my CB to the battery and installed the PSC fender vents

Also was able to mess with the mounting point of my CB antenna, remount my windshield frame armor, and retighten all the jam nuts on my CAs.
05-24-2013 01:02 PM
AngryTJ The jeep drove home great, very smooth no vibes or anything so thus far Im very happy.
Parts came out AAmazing and I freakin love these PSC fenders.
Took a few pics.


Havent seen this site in over 4 months

I did have a slight issue initially with the gas tank not registering how much gas I had and instead showing completely empty with the light on but by the time I got home it kicked back to normal and the gas gauge works again.


05-24-2013 01:01 PM
AngryTJ
measured and cut shock tower

welded in


Remounted the genright tank


She has a rake since I went with stiffer springs in the rear and the back is empty. But shes finally off jackstands!!


Painted the cage
Installed harness'

Ill eventually need to attach some velco straps to my seat covers to keep the harness' over my shoulders

Mounted Evap
Tightened all my control arms
Switched the front springs to have them on the correct side
Mounted front bump stops
Painted and installed windshield armor

Painted Chromo front shafts
Put the windshield back
adjusted the front trackbar
Took her for a short test drive!
04-22-2013 09:54 AM
AngryTJ



04-22-2013 09:53 AM
AngryTJ Custom highline hood, fenders and corners have been painted













04-17-2013 05:45 PM
AngryTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Deathmask View Post
What did you use to prime and paint your bumpers and all that? How has the paint been holding up to wheeling? Awesome build by the way.
The front bumper I used etching metal primer and then top coated with body match brand graphite grey spray paint and the rear bumper and sliders I used vht epoxy spray paint from advanced auto. The vht is great and very durable but any rock rash I just touch back up. The front has held up great.

Thanks for the compliment
04-16-2013 02:48 PM
Deathmask What did you use to prime and paint your bumpers and all that? How has the paint been holding up to wheeling? Awesome build by the way.
04-14-2013 06:00 PM
AngryTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by KILRIK View Post
Those look sweet!
If you don't mind me asking, how much did they run you? I'm in the market for some new fenders and I'm trying to find some for a good price.
Check out poison spiders site. I think they were around $550 for the fenders alone and then I purchased the inner fender kit as well.
04-14-2013 04:26 PM
KILRIK
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post
Im having a guy on jeepforum make me a custom high line hood and paint my new fenders and corner armor..shots of the new fenders and custom hood:
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Those look sweet!
If you don't mind me asking, how much did they run you? I'm in the market for some new fenders and I'm trying to find some for a good price.
04-14-2013 10:25 AM
AngryTJ Thats his rig he's using to mount my fenders and make the hood on and in the meantime I got the rear frame welded up, coil buckets are set and the control arms are done. Couple slight issues however...first off I made the upper arms too long so Ill have to cut them and either use a slug to attach the arm together again or try cutting off the bung on one end and then shorter then arm and reweld the bung.

Second issue is with shocks. The first pic shows how the shocks currently mount which only allows them to be mounted completely vertical. The problem with that is my genright tank mounts directly in the location the shock would need to be. The plan is to cut the end off my lower shock mount, drill a cross hole through and mount them in the opposite direction so I can freely angle the body of the shock further back on the frame. Hope that makes sense.



Frame welded up



I did get to do some of my first welds which came out pretty well. The majority of the welding my buddy did while I was occupied with other stuff.

Final money shot. Springs arent in and the tire is just mocked in place not actually mounted.
04-14-2013 10:24 AM
AngryTJ Im having a guy on jeepforum make me a custom high line hood and paint my new fenders and corner armor..shots of the new fenders and custom hood:




Stretched steel corners with larger wheel well and welded flares



Love these fenders

04-06-2013 08:34 PM
AngryTJ Finished the passenger side frame cut
04-06-2013 08:12 PM
AngryTJ Sold
04-03-2013 09:33 PM
AngryTJ $1000
04-03-2013 09:16 PM
Badfbody
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post
Selling my 33" Falkens on Moab rims if anyone is interested
how much ?
04-03-2013 08:20 PM
AngryTJ Spent a few hours after work tonight cutting and prepping for welding. Finished the driveside

Notched the rear crossmember enough to fit the stock coil bucket


notched the coil bucket as well


Finished cutting and did a lot of grinding so this side is ready to weld up.
03-26-2013 03:10 PM
AngryTJ Selling my 33" Falkens on Moab rims if anyone is interested
03-18-2013 07:27 PM
AngryTJ Genright EXT tank install Part 2 of 2

Once you jack the tank up secure in the rear 4 bolts

Be careful not to pinch any lines while jacking the tank up. Once in place the skid has 2 ears on the sides that you have to mark a spot on the frame with a marker. Drop the tank again and drill this spot out on the frame all the way through.

inside view

Instructions say to drill a 3/8 hole through the entire frame and then only drill the inner hole to 5/8. The only reason one side has to be drilled larger is to fit the crush sleeve that prevents the frame from well crushing inward while tightening the bolts. I decided there was no reason why I couldn't drill the outside part of the frame to 5/8 since it would be easier then climbing under the jeep and drilling again.
Helpful tips for this step: have good drill bits ( I broke at least 4), have a 5/8 drill bit which I didnt so it took me forever to use a 1/2" bit and make it large enough and start with small pilot holes and slowly increase in size.

Reconnect fuel and electrical line to fuel pump assembly

Having someone to help avoids this :laugh:

FINISHED


Jacked up the rear axle to see how much room I had and it must be the large Riddler cover but I dont have a full 5 inches to go backward which is a bummer.


Mounted the driverside stretch corner


02-26-2013 12:20 PM
AngryTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Badfbody
Nice looking great
Appreciate the compliment
02-24-2013 09:38 AM
Badfbody Nice looking great
02-24-2013 09:02 AM
AngryTJ Next take the Evap line off the stock tank and attach to the new. I used some zip ties to attach it to the new tanks hoses on top to keep it in place. Dont pinch the line making them too tight though.


Next start to jack up the tank into position making sure to be careful with the filler hose.

Thats as far as I got today and Ill finish up next weekend.

Making progress even though it may not look like it
02-24-2013 09:01 AM
AngryTJ New genright tank with simplified lines


remove filler hose from the stock tank and place on the new tank

use the supplied line and do the following


Now its time to take the fuel pump assembly out of the stock tank

Spin the outer metal ring until it comes off and the fuel pump assembly is free (I used a hammer and flathead to get the ring to spin)

then remove the fuel pump assembly VERY CAREFULLY AND SLOW!! you can see in the next pic there is a wire and float that hangs to the side. Place it aside on a clean rag

Next take the oring from the stock tank, apply some grease, and put on the new tank opening which is grooved and will fit directly in.

There will be a small tab at the top of the fuel assembly. Carefully cut the tab off so the assembly will sit in the new tank flush. Install the fuel assembly lining up the arrow on the assembly to the line or arrow on the genright tank


Use the supplied alum ring and and hand tighten making sure the arrow stays in line.

02-24-2013 09:01 AM
AngryTJ Genright EXT tank install Part 1

Well I finally got around to installing my genright tank to allow for a 5 in rear stretch. I was able to handle everything on my own and made it 80% of the way through before having to call it a day.

First things first remove the negative battery terminal

next remove the gas cap to relieve pressure in the lines

unscrew the bolts and remove the gas bezel



then locate the axle vent tube zip tied to the filler hose and cut the zip tie


unclip the following 3 hoses. 1 goes to the fuel pump assembly, 1 goes to the hose that wraps around to the evap and the last is an electrical wire then connects to the fuel pump assembly.

NOTE: for the electrical connector you will likely need to lower the tank some before being able to get your hand in there to unclip it and pull it off.
Before doing so unbolt the front 2 (Savvy GTS) or 3 (stock GTS) bolts.

In my case sawzaw them off

This is the electrical connector that has a slide piece at the top before you can push the top of it and pull it off.

Remove the 4 bolts behind the tank near the bumper, disconnect the EVAP line on the rear passenger side and lower the tank slowly. While lowering check to make sure no other hoses are being held up and also make sure to be careful of the filler hose.


The next pic shows a 2005 gas tank and how all the lines run
02-19-2013 11:33 AM
AngryTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moabrubi

Makes sense. I don't know if those the the rear bars that go across (B-C?) would work the factory bows though. I checked it out because I liked the way you did yours. I don't know much about cages yet except that triangles are good .
A factory top would fit fine right over my cage.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IndustrialRevolution
Absolutely gorgeous build.
I appreciate that, thanks!
02-19-2013 10:42 AM
IndustrialRevolution Absolutely gorgeous build.
02-18-2013 09:21 PM
Moabrubi
Quote:
Originally Posted by AngryTJ View Post
O my bad

Well I went with a custom rear half cage because I run a rampage top. The rampage hugs the stock cage C pillar and the poly rear spreader bar jets outward. Meaning my top would no longer fit so I went with an entire custom rear half so I can make whichever additions I wanted including a straight across C pillar spreader bar.
Makes sense. I don't know if those the the rear bars that go across (B-C?) would work the factory bows though. I checked it out because I liked the way you did yours. I don't know much about cages yet except that triangles are good .
02-18-2013 08:07 PM
AngryTJ Finally got around to working on the jeep.

First thing I wanted to do was swap out my 4" Zone springs for my new OME springs. The main thing I wanted see is if there was going to be any rake I would need to address by frenching the rear upper mount more into the frame lowering the a$$ end instead of using spacers in the front.

Before:

Took a few pre-swap measurements:
From the ground to the rear of the frame 22 1/8"
ground to middle frame in front of rear tire 19 1/2"
ground to middle frame behind front tire 19 1/2"
Ground to steering box skid 20 3/8"
Overall the Jeep stands pretty level

New front spring on the left (went with the OME 930s):


Front done progress shot

Rear springs (Went with OME 949 for the rear)


Finished product:

New measurements post-swap:
From the ground to the rear of the frame was 22 1/8" now 21 1/2"
ground to middle frame in front of rear tire was 19 1/2" now 18 5/8"
ground to middle frame behind front tire was 19 1/2" now 18 3/8"
Ground to steering box skid was 20 3/8" now 18 3/8"

The rear didnt drop much being as though the 949s are a stiff spring but Im sure it will settle in just a bit more. Front dropped 2" and now there is a little of a forward rake so Ill make sure to raise the rear upper mount just a bit when I stretch.

After the springs I decided to tackle the evap

Before:


The hose with the white connector at the end is where it plugs into the hose coming from the gas tank. First thing I did was detach both hoses at the top of the next pic and removed the large charcoal canister completely. Then removed the hose on the upper left that came from the canister back into the evap completely and took the upper right hose end and moved it to the evap so it bypasses it completely.
Hard to describe but easy to figure out.

Canister detached


Then I removed it from the mounting bracket completely to figure out how I wanted to mount it.

Ill make a bracket to mount like so and remove the shelf that held the canister. Started the jeep up and let it run for 10 minutes and no codes so far.

Next project is the Genright tank install
02-14-2013 03:36 PM
AngryTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyJeepMan
How much stretch?
5in rear stretch
02-14-2013 01:19 PM
IndyJeepMan How much stretch?
02-13-2013 02:09 PM
AngryTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Moabrubi

I meant the cage. At least im pretty sure the back section of the cage looks custom?

Good to know on the frame tie in.
O my bad

Well I went with a custom rear half cage because I run a rampage top. The rampage hugs the stock cage C pillar and the poly rear spreader bar jets outward. Meaning my top would no longer fit so I went with an entire custom rear half so I can make whichever additions I wanted including a straight across C pillar spreader bar.
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