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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-30-2013 09:17 AM
TTTE I cant go take pics now, but my profile pic is on level ground. Tires are 33"
04-30-2013 08:58 AM
CMA_Rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by TTTE View Post
Sorry to butt in, but how can i tell how high this lift is on my 2000 TJ i just bought? all i know is it has 33"s and the lift is skyjacker.
Post pics of your jeep on level ground and what tire size
04-30-2013 08:56 AM
TTTE Sorry to butt in, but how can i tell how high this lift is on my 2000 TJ i just bought? all i know is it has 33"s and the lift is skyjacker.
04-30-2013 08:34 AM
CMA_Rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by PStov98TJ View Post
Just wondering, you have any full bump, flex, and droop pics?
I havent had time to go to an RTI since my new lift, but I have some pictures from where I jacked up the jeep on the front LCA mount and unseated both springs on the passenger side.

Attachment 243149



Attachment 243150

Ive been trying to find a place close by to fully flex out, no luck yet
04-30-2013 08:23 AM
PStov98TJ Just wondering, you have any full bump, flex, and droop pics?
04-30-2013 08:17 AM
CMA_Rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by PStov98TJ View Post

Well that's one good thing. Except for the part where their trackbar doesn't clear the diff very well...or so I've heard at least. You still have it on there?
Yeah, mine didnt hit the diff, even at stock bumpstop
04-30-2013 08:10 AM
PStov98TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMA_Rider View Post

Their warranty is great, I broke their trackbar at the TRE and they overnighted me a whole new trackbar.
Well that's one good thing. Except for the part where their trackbar doesn't clear the diff very well...or so I've heard at least. You still have it on there?
04-30-2013 08:08 AM
CMA_Rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by sakicnut View Post

Your correct
They use OEM style rubber bushings
On the axle end they do, on the frame side they use a johhny joint type end, using a rubber cup bushing.
04-30-2013 08:06 AM
CMA_Rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by PStov98TJ View Post

x2
Go watch wayslife's KOH video. That jeep broke down halfway through the race.
And I have yet to hear one good thing about RC anything. Other than that it's cheap. But you'll quickly make up the price difference and then some replacing parts.
Their warranty is great, I broke their trackbar at the TRE and they overnighted me a whole new trackbar.
04-30-2013 07:59 AM
sakicnut
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMA_Rider View Post

Re check your facts. X-Flex CA's do not use poly on either end, and the king of the hammers Jeeps do fall apart, Ive seen it happen.
Your correct
They use OEM style rubber bushings
04-30-2013 07:57 AM
PStov98TJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMA_Rider View Post

Re check your facts. X-Flex CA's do not use poly on either end, and the king of the hammers Jeeps do fall apart, Ive seen it happen.
x2
Go watch wayslife's KOH video. That jeep broke down halfway through the race.
And I have yet to hear one good thing about RC anything. Other than that it's cheap. But you'll quickly make up the price difference and then some replacing parts.
04-30-2013 07:23 AM
CMA_Rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derp View Post

Case and point. Their is no reason as to why a good joint shouldn't be able to hold up to that abuse. Whether it be a massive Heim, a johnny joint or any other shank joint, I've found that I need a joint to rely on and the rough country or any other poly bushing in a control arm isn't that.

Many jeeps wheel harder than I do. Example is king of the hammers, those jeeps don't fall apart and neither do mine. If something is inferior do you blame it on circumstances?

Does the kicker miss the field goal because he can't kick or because he was kicking with a steel toed boot? In this case its the boot.
Re check your facts. X-Flex CA's do not use poly on either end, and the king of the hammers Jeeps do fall apart, Ive seen it happen.
04-30-2013 01:48 AM
Derp
Quote:
Originally Posted by sakicnut View Post

Never said you didn't know anything for one so you don't have to be rude. Yes you do harder wheeling then I do, but I have never once had a problem with my control arms and I've stuffed my 33's on the 4 inch lift. The reason the RC control arms did not hold up for you is because how your blasting through the desert, we don't wheel like that here.
Case and point. Their is no reason as to why a good joint shouldn't be able to hold up to that abuse. Whether it be a massive Heim, a johnny joint or any other shank joint, I've found that I need a joint to rely on and the rough country or any other poly bushing in a control arm isn't that.

Many jeeps wheel harder than I do. Example is king of the hammers, those jeeps don't fall apart and neither do mine. If something is inferior do you blame it on circumstances?

Does the kicker miss the field goal because he can't kick or because he was kicking with a steel toed boot? In this case its the boot.
04-29-2013 11:05 PM
CMA_Rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derp View Post

Do you blast through the deserts? I doubt it. I crawled with them too. They're no where near the quality as my current joints. My current ones have never required a rebuild and not once have they ever caused me any hassle.

Call up RC . They built them not me. I rebuilt them more than once and I can guarantee they were done right. Every single one broke down. It's not rocket science..
Deserts no.... rocky narrow trails yes, at 40mph
04-29-2013 10:59 PM
sakicnut
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derp View Post

Congrats, better buy a bearing press and some snap ring pliers. You'll need them soon.

I'm not talking out my ass. I've had RC arms and Rubicon express. Both sets sucked at the bushings were trashed every five trips. Poly bushings aren't cheap and neither are rebuild kits for any flex joint. I'd rather shell out the cash to make sure my 3 linked jeep stays stable considering I have no rear Trackbar. I can't afford sloppiness back there, that'd be stupid of me to put myself on the highway with bushings known to fail and leave me dead worst case scenario. I also don't like crawling under my jeep anymore than I have to considering its fallen on top of me when my last hydraulic jack broke.

I too have a Dana 35, trussed with 4.56's. Ive also got Fox's on my floor waiting for me to notch the frame.

My suspension geometry leaves me decent, with a reasonably high amounts of separation at the axle for my 3 link yet with 2" of spring list my upper wishbone is parallel to the floor.

After having a case of death wobble going about 50 with rubi express arms in the desert, you might think differently of any arm using a poly bushing on one end. It's an inferior design and their is a clear cut reason why the arms are lower quality and cheaper in price 9/10 times.

My jeep and its requirements and my own standards require a joint on both ends that won't leave me shiny side up on the pavement or when I abuse them.

But hey what do I know?
Never said you didn't know anything for one so you don't have to be rude. Yes you do harder wheeling then I do, but I have never once had a problem with my control arms and I've stuffed my 33's on the 4 inch lift. The reason the RC control arms did not hold up for you is because how your blasting through the desert, we don't wheel like that here.
04-29-2013 10:32 PM
CMA_Rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
There is only one answer. You both send me your arms and ill run then for you.
In your dreams, I love my RC X-Flex arms
04-29-2013 09:30 PM
GoldenSahara00 There is only one answer. You both send me your arms and ill run then for you.
04-29-2013 09:20 PM
Derp
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMA_Rider View Post

Either your lying about the RC joints or you built them wrong when you installed them. Ive had my RC joints on since last October and have put about 8-9k on them and have been offroading almost every weekend, and mine are still tight, I have no complaints.
Do you blast through the deserts? I doubt it. I crawled with them too. They're no where near the quality as my current joints. My current ones have never required a rebuild and not once have they ever caused me any hassle.

Call up RC . They built them not me. I rebuilt them more than once and I can guarantee they were done right. Every single one broke down. It's not rocket science..
04-29-2013 08:42 PM
CMA_Rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derp View Post
Congrats, better buy a bearing press and some snap ring pliers. You'll need them soon.

I'm not talking out my ass. I've had RC arms and Rubicon express. Both sets sucked at the bushings were trashed every five trips. Poly bushings aren't cheap and neither are rebuild kits for any flex joint. I'd rather shell out the cash to make sure my 3 linked jeep stays stable considering I have no rear Trackbar. I can't afford sloppiness back there, that'd be stupid of me to put myself on the highway with bushings known to fail and leave me dead worst case scenario. I also don't like crawling under my jeep anymore than I have to considering its fallen on top of me when my last hydraulic jack broke.

I too have a Dana 35, trussed with 4.56's. Ive also got Fox's on my floor waiting for me to notch the frame.

My suspension geometry leaves me decent, with a reasonably high amounts of separation at the axle for my 3 link yet with 2" of spring list my upper wishbone is parallel to the floor.

After having a case of death wobble going about 50 with rubi express arms in the desert, you might think differently of any arm using a poly bushing on one end. It's an inferior design and their is a clear cut reason why the arms are lower quality and cheaper in price 9/10 times.

My jeep and its requirements and my own standards require a joint on both ends that won't leave me shiny side up on the pavement or when I abuse them.

But hey what do I know?
Either your lying about the RC joints or you built them wrong when you installed them. Ive had my RC joints on since last October and have put about 8-9k on them and have been offroading almost every weekend, and mine are still tight, I have no complaints.
04-29-2013 05:11 PM
Derp
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drakea94 View Post

You have rough country?
Or just know somebody that does ?
Or do you get all your info online?
Next we can all dis non warn winches.
Read my above post. It's all real time info bud. If you ever make it out to cali I'll personally show you those rubi express arms. I'll also be more than happy to show you through our deserts.
04-29-2013 05:10 PM
Derp
Quote:
Originally Posted by sakicnut View Post

That's funny because I wheeled turkey bay with my rough country lift and had problems at all, and those guy had old man emu lifts with currie control arms. So when did you run rough country in your jeep?
But hey what do I know, I have a 4 cylinder with RC lift, dana 35 and harbor freight winch
Congrats, better buy a bearing press and some snap ring pliers. You'll need them soon.

I'm not talking out my ass. I've had RC arms and Rubicon express. Both sets sucked at the bushings were trashed every five trips. Poly bushings aren't cheap and neither are rebuild kits for any flex joint. I'd rather shell out the cash to make sure my 3 linked jeep stays stable considering I have no rear Trackbar. I can't afford sloppiness back there, that'd be stupid of me to put myself on the highway with bushings known to fail and leave me dead worst case scenario. I also don't like crawling under my jeep anymore than I have to considering its fallen on top of me when my last hydraulic jack broke.

I too have a Dana 35, trussed with 4.56's. Ive also got Fox's on my floor waiting for me to notch the frame.

My suspension geometry leaves me decent, with a reasonably high amounts of separation at the axle for my 3 link yet with 2" of spring list my upper wishbone is parallel to the floor.

After having a case of death wobble going about 50 with rubi express arms in the desert, you might think differently of any arm using a poly bushing on one end. It's an inferior design and their is a clear cut reason why the arms are lower quality and cheaper in price 9/10 times.

My jeep and its requirements and my own standards require a joint on both ends that won't leave me shiny side up on the pavement or when I abuse them.

But hey what do I know?
04-29-2013 03:34 PM
Drakea94
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derp

Don't kid yourself. The rough country joints are not a full functional range of 30 degrees. The johnny joint has its same properties until it binds. The rough country joints do not also have a flex joint on both ends. That too is key.

I'm not arguing this any further. Put both the Currie and rough country kit on the same jeep and see which makes it farther through the toughest trails in the u.s. I already know the answer to that.

http://m.youtube.com/index?&desktop_uri=%2F

Still think those c flex joints have better absorption and characteristics than a johnny joint or duroflex joint? I think not.
You have rough country?
Or just know somebody that does ?
Or do you get all your info online?
Next we can all dis non warn winches.
04-29-2013 03:34 PM
sakicnut
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derp View Post

Don't kid yourself. The rough country joints are not a full functional range of 30 degrees. The johnny joint has its same properties until it binds. The rough country joints do not also have a flex joint on both ends. That too is key.

I'm not arguing this any further. Put both the Currie and rough country kit on the same jeep and see which makes it farther through the toughest trails in the u.s. I already know the answer to that.

http://m.youtube.com/index?&desktop_uri=%2F

Still think those c flex joints have better absorption and characteristics than a johnny joint or duroflex joint? I think not.
That's funny because I wheeled turkey bay with my rough country lift and had problems at all, and those guy had old man emu lifts with currie control arms. So when did you run rough country in your jeep?
But hey what do I know, I have a 4 cylinder with RC lift, dana 35 and harbor freight winch
04-29-2013 12:58 PM
GoldenSahara00
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
fwiw, i found this on youtube.

Rough Country Joint - YouTube

post says it's a RC joint, 1 yr old, four trips off road.

a friend of mine runs Rusty's flex joints on his Jeep. he replaces them every couple of months because they get loose like that too. I told him the same thing I'll say here...I've had no problems with my Currie JJ's over several years and tens of thousands of miles....

one thing is for sure - if the product you buy doesn't work, you have to buy something new to replace the bad part and get the rig working again. Personally, since I don't have a lot of money, I'd rather only spend it once on a quality product.


This is a good point. At 2.5" of lift, my rig has about 160-170% anti-squat. It's definitely not ideal. It does work for what I do the vast majority of the time...as it does with a lot of rigs. I'd love to address it someday with a nice custom 4-link mid-arm w/ panhard....but that is a whole bunch of work & time that will need to go to the bottom of the list for now.

But if we're talking about the "best" lift kit, it would need to address suspension geometry...along with a whole host of things most folks around here don't even think about.
Good stuff ^

I think we could say there is a "Best bolt on kit" and then there is the best suspension you can build for you jeep, which required custom work, and lots of it. Obviously anything beyond basic bolt on stuff that has had a little thought put into it will outperform anything you can buy and install in a few hours, both on the trail and on the calculator.
04-29-2013 12:30 PM
UnlimitedLJ04 fwiw, i found this on youtube.

Rough Country Joint - YouTube

post says it's a RC joint, 1 yr old, four trips off road.

a friend of mine runs Rusty's flex joints on his Jeep. he replaces them every couple of months because they get loose like that too. I told him the same thing I'll say here...I've had no problems with my Currie JJ's over several years and tens of thousands of miles....

one thing is for sure - if the product you buy doesn't work, you have to buy something new to replace the bad part and get the rig working again. Personally, since I don't have a lot of money, I'd rather only spend it once on a quality product.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aTX427 View Post
Guys, it's a mathematical equation. There is no "thinking" it's ok or not. Maybe you can live with worse geometry and that is fine for you, but it's not for everyone.
This is a good point. At 2.5" of lift, my rig has about 160-170% anti-squat. It's definitely not ideal. It does work for what I do the vast majority of the time...as it does with a lot of rigs. I'd love to address it someday with a nice custom 4-link mid-arm w/ panhard....but that is a whole bunch of work & time that will need to go to the bottom of the list for now.

But if we're talking about the "best" lift kit, it would need to address suspension geometry...along with a whole host of things most folks around here don't even think about.
04-29-2013 12:00 PM
Derp
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derp View Post

Don't kid yourself. The rough country joints are not a full functional range of 30 degrees. The johnny joint has its same properties until it binds. The rough country joints do not also have a flex joint on both ends. That too is key.

I'm not arguing this any further. Put both the Currie and rough country kit on the same jeep and see which makes it farther through the toughest trails in the u.s. I already know the answer to that.

http://m.youtube.com/index?&desktop_uri=%2F

Still think those c flex joints have better absorption and characteristics than a johnny joint or duroflex joint? I think not.
X** flex

Damn you autocorrect
04-29-2013 02:27 AM
Derp
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMA_Rider View Post

From Curries site - Johnny Joints offers 30* of Movement

From RC - X-Flex Lower joints offer 35* and the uppers offer 20*

Currie Arms - Lower - 1.5" D.O.M. .325"wall, Upper 1.25" D.O.M. .291"wall

RC X-Flex Arms - Lower 1.75" D.O.M. .312"wall, Upper 1.25" Solid round stock
Don't kid yourself. The rough country joints are not a full functional range of 30 degrees. The johnny joint has its same properties until it binds. The rough country joints do not also have a flex joint on both ends. That too is key.

I'm not arguing this any further. Put both the Currie and rough country kit on the same jeep and see which makes it farther through the toughest trails in the u.s. I already know the answer to that.

http://m.youtube.com/index?&desktop_uri=%2F

Still think those c flex joints have better absorption and characteristics than a johnny joint or duroflex joint? I think not.
04-28-2013 02:21 PM
CMA_Rider
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derp View Post
The difference is much greater than that. The johnny joint offers more misalignment and is present on both sides of the arm. They're also thicker walled arms. I'm sorry but RC and savvy / Currie are two different leagues.
From Curries site - Johnny Joints offers 30* of Movement

From RC - X-Flex Lower joints offer 35* and the uppers offer 20*

Currie Arms - Lower - 1.5" D.O.M. .325"wall, Upper 1.25" D.O.M. .291"wall

RC X-Flex Arms - Lower 1.75" D.O.M. .312"wall, Upper 1.25" Solid round stock
04-28-2013 01:29 PM
Derp
Quote:
Originally Posted by CMA_Rider View Post

$1123.06 This is for 8 new adj CA's, 4 - 3" BDS Springs, adj front trackbar, rear trackbar relocation bracket, 4 - 4" Shocks,and 4 Bumpstops

Im using X-Flex adj CA's $700 and have had no problem, I've been running them since October and have put them through just about everything you can think of without any complaints. Everyone says that johnny joints are better... I disagree, They're built the same, and have the same problems when you forget to grease them or build them wrong. The main difference is JJ's are a whole lot pricier than X-flex due to the name of the company your buying from.
The difference is much greater than that. The johnny joint offers more misalignment and is present on both sides of the arm. They're also thicker walled arms. I'm sorry but RC and savvy / Currie are two different leagues.
04-28-2013 01:27 PM
Derp
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
David, not saying this directly at you, but spring rate and unsprung length has a lot to do with whether your coil will unseat or not as well. I know with your small front stretch and stuff it's a little bit more than normal as well, but just putting the info out there. When running longer travel or other modified shocks, often times a spring with a taller unsprung length will be used in order to apply some force down through the suspension travel, and prevent the spring from unseating.

Derp, that really sucks that your shocks are limiting right now. Do you have pics of your 3-link in your build or somewhere? I never did get to check it out.
There's the 3 link

Attachment 242164
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