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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-25-2013 07:20 AM
geiman An angle grinder will work fine; look at where the shock is contacting the bucket and clearance the bucket so it no longer hits. Should be stupidly simple.
04-25-2013 01:00 AM
Derp Sorry about the quality it was dark out.
04-23-2013 04:48 PM
Some Farkin Guy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Derp View Post
I'll put up a pic in a little. I used a seawall but either will work.
I'd appreciate that. I've still got a few days before my driveshaft comes in to get it all prepared correctly.
04-23-2013 03:01 PM
Derp
Quote:
Originally Posted by Some Farkin Guy View Post
Could one of you post a picture of how you notched it? What did you use? I've got an angle grinder if that would work.
I'll put up a pic in a little. I used a seawall but either will work.
04-23-2013 02:35 PM
Some Farkin Guy Could one of you post a picture of how you notched it? What did you use? I've got an angle grinder if that would work.
04-22-2013 11:29 PM
Derp
Quote:
Originally Posted by Some Farkin Guy View Post
It's all installed save for the driveshaft that I'm waiting on. When I adjusted the pinion angle to the correct angle the shocks hit into the rear lower coil mounts. I just adjusted it down until it didn't hit anymore. I hope that works okay, the angles were still pretty close to what they should be. Should I be looking into welding new shock mounts to get the angle better? Or will it be fine as long as nothing hits and I don't get driveline vibrations?
Notch the buckets. The not h required is extremely small and poses no issues.

Drivelineangle is key.
04-22-2013 10:48 PM
IslandTJ I cut a notch out on my lower rear coil perches, to clear the shocks - worked great.
04-22-2013 10:04 PM
Some Farkin Guy It's all installed save for the driveshaft that I'm waiting on. When I adjusted the pinion angle to the correct angle the shocks hit into the rear lower coil mounts. I just adjusted it down until it didn't hit anymore. I hope that works okay, the angles were still pretty close to what they should be. Should I be looking into welding new shock mounts to get the angle better? Or will it be fine as long as nothing hits and I don't get driveline vibrations?
04-20-2013 06:01 AM
All Terrain JK
Quote:
Originally Posted by Some Farkin Guy View Post
A slip yoke eliminator eliminator would put me back to stock.
Yeah, but it sounds much cooler than "stock".
04-20-2013 12:55 AM
Dextreme
Quote:
Originally Posted by Some Farkin Guy View Post
A slip yoke eliminator eliminator would put me back to stock. lol.
I was just about to point that out. LOL
04-19-2013 09:30 PM
Some Farkin Guy I found some longer bolts, but they were still shy of the length I needed. I ended up tightening those bolts with the longer threads far enough to force it loose from the housing. It scarred up the housing a bit, but that was being replaced anyway.

I can tell I was in a rush to type out the thread title. A slip yoke eliminator eliminator would put me back to stock. lol. As for the progress, the transfer case is bolted back to the transmission. Tomorrow the skid plate will be cleaned and painted before installation, then I'm off to try my hand at adjustable rear upper control arms.
04-19-2013 02:47 PM
Goalieme I used a puller for bearings with a really long reach, but I just had the slinger. No harmonic balancer.
04-19-2013 02:42 PM
Some Farkin Guy
SYE eliminator install issues

I've got the tcase out of the Jeep, but can't get the harmonic balancer off of the rear output shaft. I borrowed a harmonic balancer puller, but none of the bolts long enough to reach to the harmonic balancer. How do I pull this thing off? Throwing a lot more money at it is not an option, I've already spent enough to have the wife pissed off. I'm headed out to see if I can find long enough bolts for it, but they're really small bolts that I doubt most places would stock. Any other tips that might help?

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