|05-08-2013 05:50 PM|
|04-24-2013 12:18 PM|
I like the sound quality but it's too light on bass, largely because of the db651s units in the soundbar. I would have used a different speaker set had I found a slim mount with a lower response, but I think that having a slim mount makes it virtually impossible to get to those deeper frequencies. When I get my amp and sub mounted, I'm sure it will be a lot better.
|04-24-2013 12:06 PM|
It just remembered my entire ordeal.
I wanted Polk Audio's all the way around, and I wanted to keep the stock grills and avoid any cutting, drillng or trimming of any kind.
I looked at three sets, and each of them had their own issue.
DB651s's (slim) - They worked front and rear, and you could keep the stock grills, but, they only got down to 55hz.
DB651's (non-slim) - They worked in the rear, but you could not use the factory grill. They did not work in the front because the tweeter would bump up against the front grill according to Crutchfield. I thought someone had managed to get stock grills on the rear speakers, but I could never find that thread.
DB6501's (component) - They worked in the front, but you would have to trim the tweeter pods. They could work in the rear (not sure about the factory grills, I would think so), but you would have to cut new holes in the soundbar for the tweeters. I know some have gone this route as well. I would consider this, but only if I were running an aftermarket amp with full bandwidth to all 4 corners. It would be a waste of money to run components off of the stock amp.
So in the end, I ended up with the Kicker's...probably the 3rd choice on my list (DB651's, DB6051's, Kicker's, DB651s's) because they fit in all 4 corners with the factory grill. Pretty much plug an play.
I think I would have considered the DB651s's more if I would have also upgraded my sub.
|04-23-2013 11:37 PM|
I wanted the Polks over the Kicker's (77Kick10's) but I wanted the 651's, not the 651S's in all 4 spots while still using the stock grills....but in hindsight, it would not have mattered. The rear speakers are crossed over anyway....so it isn't like they are hitting all that hard.
The Kicker's are good speakers, but I really like Polk Audio....and the factory amp still blows.
For those interested, here are the specs on the 77Kick10's from Kicker themselves.
The 77Kick10 is a 4 ohm 6.5 with a rated frequency response of 40 Hz – 21 KHz. They can handle 6-65 watts RMS and have a sensitivity of 90 dB.
The Mopar branded amps are designed to run at 4 ohm on the multi-channel and ˝ ohm or 1 ohm on the sub amps/channels. The 8 channel amp that we use in premium audio Jeep Wranglers is rated at 368 watts.
The DB651 gets down to 35hz, with a sensitivity of 92db...nice.
|04-23-2013 11:18 PM|
|Gowhitesox99||I see enough 411 here to swap all 4 and feel pretty good about it. Ill get some fill from a pillow of from bed bath and beyond|
|04-23-2013 11:09 PM|
|04-23-2013 08:53 PM|
|04-23-2013 08:44 PM|
|04-23-2013 08:44 PM|
|Gowhitesox99||those 2 sets of polks on ebay only about $150, might be worth a shot, that and some poly should get me started anyways. Not a total audio phile but want a bit more out of what I have|
|04-23-2013 08:34 PM|
|04-23-2013 07:41 PM|
I also did a somewhat simple upgrade with keeping the stock head unit. I too used the polyfill in the soundbar. I changed out the speakers in the dash and soundbar to Polk DB651 & DB651S. Then added a JL audio 500/3 amp and a Kicker CVR12 sub. I disconnected the tweeters until I find something else.
I love my upgrade and it didn't cost me thousands of dollars.
Everyone has different expectations of what sounds good.
Good luck with what you decide to do.
|04-23-2013 06:55 PM|
Instead of giving you the cliff notes, here's what worked for me. YMMV!
|04-23-2013 06:37 PM|
You will notice an improvement in sound quality by polyfilling the soundbar and replacing the speakers, but don't expect to to go from CBGBs to Carnegie Hall. If you want audiophile quality, be prepared to spend the money to replace everything.
|04-23-2013 05:33 PM|
It really depends on what you are trying to do.
I added polyfil and new speakers on my premium/Alpine system. I meant to add a new sub and sub amp, but never got around to it. There are a lot of inherent flaws with the factory system...just depends on what you are willing to put up with.
|04-23-2013 05:21 PM|
|Gowhitesox99||Moab can you link me to what speakers you bought? Thanks!!|
|04-23-2013 05:17 PM|
|jsparks515||Great post guys! I too am looking for mods to increase sound. I'm definitely going to go find some poly fill this weekend!|
|04-23-2013 04:00 PM|
There are numerous threads on here about switching different sound system components. Everyone thinks that the way they have done it is the only way to go. Some will tell you that you must install a new head unit...and/or a new amp or amps...and/or new speakers...and/or custom subwoofer enclosures...and/or line out converters, polyfill, dynamat, etc.
I took the minimalist route (for a change) since I wanted to keep the stock head unit and still get better sound. I've been happily surprised at the difference. All I did was switch out the dash/soundbar speakers to Polks (4-ohm and no LOC by the way) and put in a Polk subwoofer with it's own mono amp that gets its signal from the original sub wires. I polyfilled everything and dynamatted the hell out of the stock sub enclosure. The difference in the overall sound is stunning.
The sub took the most time since I had to make an adapter to mount it. The dash and soundbar speakers took all of about 2 hours to switch all four...with most of that time spent accessing the two speakers in the dash. Get wiring adapters at Crutchfield. There's no need to cut wires and do any soldering as someone else mentioned. It's plug and play. I think I spent about 15 minutes each on the soundbar speakers when I installed them yesterday.
Listen to some on here and you will be spending more than a set of high-end 35" tires and wheels on your sound system. Yes, it would be nice to have more control over different frequencies than is possible with the stock head unit. However, I'm not going to be sitting in the Jeep for critical listening sessions like I might with my home system. The factory amp seems to have plenty of power to drive the better 4-ohm speakers to top-down volumes. It does not, however, have enough power to drive a decent sub.
I have the Alpine system...not sure how different it is from the Infinity...but I'd bet not that much.
|04-23-2013 03:54 PM|
2. Yes, just remove the screws and pull the speakers out and stuff the filling in there.
3. Can't answer that, mine are still stock.
|04-23-2013 03:48 PM|
|DFW6ER||get polyfill at walmart in the crafts section....Hobby Lobby has it too or you can sacrifice some old pillows.|
|04-23-2013 03:47 PM|
1. Go find someone else's (not goose down) pillow, and open it up- polyfill (free)
2. Yes. Screw driver. If you wish to swap out speakers, you'll need wire cutters, a soldering gun, and wire wrap.
3. Head to your local stereo store, and start listening. You'll find something. Search "speakers" in WF.
|04-23-2013 03:42 PM|
It really depends on the type of sound you want. Jeep speakers and the entire system suck. Polyfill won't make it sound a whole lot better. If you really want to make your jeep sound better, you need to invest in 4-ohm good speakers (not 2-ohm) and replace all the speakers, put in a good amp (4-chan if not going with a sub-woofer or a 5-chan if you put in a sub in the back) and a LOC which will allow your head unit to play 4-ohm speakers.
|04-23-2013 03:24 PM|
1st speaker mod 2009 4 door/ Infinity System
I read up and will poly fill the soundbar.
2009 4 door sahara with infinity system and nav head unit.
I also read up and peeps say to swap the speakers in the sound bar and that will also help. Ok got it, so I have a couple questions
1. Poly Fill is that available at electronic stores (best buy) or should I order online?
2. Is swapping the speakers and adding the poly fill easy?
3. What kind of speakers should I add in there?
Thanks! Im a rookie