|05-10-2013 04:12 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Wait, so you don't poop out rock jock axles every evening like I do?|
|05-10-2013 04:10 PM|
Well you're both on point. I'm just used to dealing with the locals who thinks thousand dollar parts just materialize. Don't mind me
|05-10-2013 01:20 PM|
|05-10-2013 07:31 AM|
|05-10-2013 06:03 AM|
|05-10-2013 06:01 AM|
|05-08-2013 04:40 PM|
|teamhirev||I would just stick with an 8.8 its a strong and easy to install with the artec truss kit. Thats what I did with mine D44 are way overpriced...|
|05-08-2013 04:14 PM|
I could be wrong, but then that's why I'm paying close attention to this thread: to learn.
|05-08-2013 03:38 PM|
|05-08-2013 03:19 PM|
|05-08-2013 07:28 AM|
And it's still gona be using RE arms I wonder how old the kit/arms are. I think they did get better but I know a lot of guys hate them pretty hard.
Your looking at 1300 again after R/P, Locker, Install, and 500 axle purchase, if not more.
|05-08-2013 06:03 AM|
Lockers like the ARB, Detroit, etc. are called case lockers and they do replace the carrier. But the price of the carrier and what not is obviously built into the cost of the locker, so regardless you'll be spending that money. But if you were going that way anyway you'd have to spend the same amount so it's kind of moot.
So yes, a full case locker and a new ring & pinion should have you up and moving provided it doesn't need anything else.
|05-08-2013 12:57 AM|
Well turns out someone bought the axles a couple weeks ago. So I found another rear D44, everything except ring and pinion gears and carrier. Its been set up for the RE 3 link. The guy said everything for the 3 link goes including control arms. He's gonna send me pictures tomorrow. Priced it to me for $500. So if the pictures look good im gonna go look at it and snatch it up.
Now i havent done much looking as far as lockers go and havent done much research on them . So someone tell me if im wrong, certain lockers takes the place of the carrier and spider gears right? So when setting up this axle since the housing is empty, i wont have to waste the money on spider gears and a carrier right? Sorry for the extremely stupid question lol.
|05-07-2013 06:26 AM|
|geiman||Too rich for my blood. If you can haggle a bit I wouldn't mind paying a little less for the rear axle, but I'd have a hard time paying that for the front when I can get an HP D30 for around $100. The only real benefit the D44 will have over the D30, at least in my opinion, is being able to run lower than 4.88 gearing.|
|05-06-2013 09:50 PM|
|05-06-2013 09:17 PM|
1300 an axle. Yes the rear one is build pretty decent, but both have obviously be wheeled from the sound of things. Also you have work to do on the front axle. The rubi locker has obviously been replaced, which basically takes down the value IMO. That front axle is still only good for 35s with hard wheeling. You could probably do shafts and some things and run 37s on that setup. By average, I meant that it was fair. You factor in gas, time, repairs you have to do, probably some junk you have to fix you won't be expecting, and you'll be at 3k for the set. I just saw a pair on pirate for around the same price today, but both rubi axles/built.
Can't find it now.
Here's a similarly built d44 to your rear ^ for 1k
2001 Jeep Tj Rear Dana 44 with arb - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
You see them pop up from time to time.
|05-06-2013 08:12 PM|
|05-06-2013 07:08 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Sounds about average to me.|
|05-06-2013 06:49 PM|
Ok a small update, I did a little more digging on the 8.8 and realized I would be better off searching my butt off for a D44. With doing that I managed to come across someone with a set of D44s. Here's the info on them.
"Ok I have a front d44 for a tj with disc bolt in with 4.56 gears. Needs pinion bearing replaced otherwise fine. Comes with aftermarket tie rod and warn diff cover and powertrax locker...it is a rubi front!
I also have a rear tj dana44 with 4.56 gears, Detroit locker and chromoly shafts stock disc brakes complete bolt in... NON rubi rear... Original tj dana 44!"
That's the info on them, he's asking $2600 for both. Is all of that worth the asking price? I would go ahead and pull the trigger but I figured I should make sure before spending that much on a pile of crap ya know?
|05-04-2013 08:10 AM|
It's hard to go wrong with disc brakes, and if you have the cash it's the route I'd go.
That being said, I'll once again say, that properly adjusted and maintained drum brakes will perform just as well as disc brakes. If you notice any kind of improvement with disc brakes it's not simply because disc brakes are better.
I will also say that because disc brakes require less maintenance (ie.. the adjustment screw properly set for drum brakes) my rear brakes have certainly been more consistent, but again that's only because of not keeping up with maintenance on the drum brakes.
If you can afford it, disc brakes are very much worth it. One last thing; if you go with disc brakes, checkout these brackets from black magic brakes:
Wizard Brackets - Reverse TJ Style Parking Brake Cables
Using those, you can flip the calipers to the front side of the axle which gives you a bit more clearance and allows for outboarding shocks should you ever go that route. If you don't think you'll ever outboard your shocks they aren't really necessary, but if you do they're very nice. I went ahead and put mine on when I installed the axle just to get it done with.
|05-04-2013 03:35 AM|
|Derp||Rear discs are more for convenience of maint. Not worth the extra price as most braking on a tj is up front. As for travel, I have found that anything under 3-4" uptravel in the rear a bit harsh on bumps and dips or potholes.|
|05-03-2013 09:33 PM|
|05-03-2013 09:26 PM|
|05-03-2013 09:18 PM|
After reading that the rear axle doesn't account for much of the braking power, do disc brake upgrades really matter?
I've been poking around looking at D44 axles online. I noticed some axles offer two options: sticking with factory brakes or adding disc brakes. The difference in price between two sets I looked at was about $500.
Are disc brakes worth that kind of upgrade, or am I better off saving the money and going with the factory brakes instead?
|04-30-2013 09:11 AM|
I am running the stock upper bump stops with (I believe) a 3" lower bump stop pad (I will confirm that tonight). So in the front I have about 3.5" of up travel until I am at full bump.
The rear bumps don't matter as much... I only have them extended by about an inch and its fine.
I will say that I have some rubbing issues only when I'm turned hard driver or hard passenger and I have that corresponding tire stuffed. It is only at full stuff that I rub though. To fix this problem I will be moving to the metal cloak overline fenders.
I did not have to notch my frame due to the fact that I limited my up travel so much.
All in all, I'm really happy with the way it turned out.
Here are a few pics of it in action
|04-30-2013 08:52 AM|
|04-30-2013 07:35 AM|
|04-30-2013 07:33 AM|
|04-30-2013 07:05 AM|
|04-29-2013 09:34 PM|
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