|05-06-2013 06:56 AM|
|indirocz28||Kruger, any chance I could con you out of a pair of those leaf springs?|
|04-30-2013 11:33 AM|
|Dudeadam||Liking this. I have to have ideas for my 4 banger.|
|04-26-2013 03:11 AM|
|indirocz28||Sounds like what I need to do to fix the original builders motor mount screw up in my YJ. But everything is in and together now. Some day after more $ maybe.|
|04-26-2013 01:46 AM|
For some reason, the pics didnt show up in the prev. post. But, here they are. The one above is of the LED tail lights that I installed.
Here you can see where I put the back-up fisheye LED's
CZ28- Thanks for the kind words. When I did this project, I neglected the 5 P"s. Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance. I didnt even think about the front drive shaft when I was puttin in the motor. Just took it for granted. The stock Jeep motor mounts have a high arch in them for just this thing. Never noticed that until it was too late. I have decided take the jeep to a buddy of mine that has all the right tools to fix this. Gonna get him to fab out a motor mount for the drivers side to miss the front drive shaft. I have a lift kit in the garage, a 3.5 incher, that I have decided not to use. I really like this jeep at this height and am going to do everything I can NOT to lift it.
|04-25-2013 03:18 PM|
Looking good Kruger!
I have a 91 yj with A SBC, and the guy who originally put in the 1st SBC "thought" he was a fabricator and really miffed up the motor mount perches. Causing me all kinds of issues when trying to put in the TBI 350.
My build link is in my SIG.
Good work man, keep it coming!
|04-21-2013 03:13 PM|
coupla pics of the finished (for now) jeep.
This is how it looks now and the foreseeable future. I have it just the way that I want it to look.
Here is a shot of the tail lights that I installed. LED and backup lights installed.
And here is where I put the back-up lights. It is the little fisheye LED down at the bottom corner.
Now, I said that it is the way that I want it, but, there is one thing that I am wanting to add, and that is a Vacuum gauge. I havent bought it yet, but I will. It will go in the un-used gauge place in my dash. No big deal installing it, just gotta buy it.
One more thing tho. I did have to buy a new fuel sending unit for the fuel gauge. Never could make the one that I had work consistantly. Works now and am happy with it.
|03-06-2013 02:02 AM|
Wow, been a little busy lately and has been a while since I posted up here, or even been on the forums. SO, I will try to give a little update here.
JDNeal88- Yes, if you were to keep the fuel injection, then you would have to have the computer. It controls the fuel/air mixture, fires the injectors, monitors all the little sensors. I opted not to have the fuel injection, and, to be honest, I am having a blast with the carb. It really doesnt need any more power than it has now. Granted, this is not a daily driver, strictly a fair weather driver, (spring, summer, and early fall) so fuel consumption is not really a big issue for me. Sure, I would love to get 30 mpg, but that never was in any equation when I started this project. And, a properly tuned carb will get good enough mileage for my needs. This Jeep is nearly stripped down, and the the motor is never under any strain, so, there is power a' plenty here.
00tj2, I agree. The 4.3 is underrated, but, I dont think that it is done intentionally. You see, the problem is that there is virtually no cost difference between swapping IN a SBC or a 4.3. SO, the thinking is this: "why have a v6 when you can have a v8"? You use all the same things for either engine, brackets, mounts, radiators, lines, ect. So most people just grab a SBC, and they are everywhere. And, to be honest, it does cost more to make it run, a 4.3, at least, in my case it did. Had to buy an intake, carb, distributor, fuel pump, and all the associated little things just to make it work. And, the intake choices are very limited. I chose a 4.3, well, just because I wanted to. No other reason. Not sorry that I did it at all.
kywatterman- I like the way that the front looks as well. All industrial with the expanded metal. As to your question: Yes and no. Yes, I could have made it work, but it would have looked like "dammit". The stock pulley brackets were huge. Stuck waaay out there. And, the stock brackets were also set up for an AC unit. No ac on this jeep, just 2 x 55, no top or doors. I choose the hyster brackets for several reasons. First and foremost, they were free. And, they did exactly what I wanted them to, run the water pump and the alternator, which is all that I have. They also look way cooler than the stock set up. And, they are made of Cast Iron, weigh a ton, keeps me from pullin wheelies at red lights. And, it really did make the set up very easy to do. I could have spent a lot of money on trying to fit brackets together to accomplish the same thing. And, lastly, it's different, and I like that.
Now, an update, altho a small one.
I did rotate the carb around 180 degrees so the accelerator cable is pulling from the front. It was a tight fit against the distributor, the metering block on the carb, (Holley), added an inch to the length of that side of the carb. NOTE: if you use an Edelbrock, you wont have any space issues, the fuel bowls are on the sides, not the front/back. But it is in and working properly. Had to get a longer accelerator cable, then cut to length. I used the parts from one of those "custom accelerator cable kits" to make it work. And got the Big Al gas pedal installed and adjusted properly. So, it is all smooth now.
Decided to get some LED tail lights. The stock tail lights were just too finicky, just working occasionally. So, I got on a popular auction site, ordered the 6 in oblong taillights, side markers, tag light and fisheye backup lights. Havent installed them yet, but will probably get them in this week if all goes well.
Also, ordered some Stealth Star wheel from US Wheels. Flat Black. Hated/HATE the wheels that are on there now. When I bought the jeep, that was definitely the one thing that was going to get changed, even before I decided to swap out the motor. Got some black lug nuts to go with them as well. Now, just need to decide on tires.......
No pics this time, but soon. I have been Sorry and lazy recently and had too many other things spring up to really commit any quality time with the jeep. And, the weather has not been "Jeep friendly" for the last coupla months, so, it has been pushed back a bit. But, good weather is a' commin. Gotta get busy and get things right.
And, I promise, will post pics.
|02-26-2013 10:55 AM|
|kywaterman||Great thread. Love the gauges and I like the looks of the rad/ oil cooler gaurd behind the grill gives it a good look imo. Would the stock 4.3 belt setup of worked besides you not having ps?|
|02-15-2013 08:13 PM|
|02-15-2013 03:28 PM|
|00tj2||Nice build. The 4.3 is seems to be such an underrated motor and I don't know why. They have good power and when geared correctly will turn in some pretty good MPG. Looking forward to see the rest of your build.|
|02-15-2013 11:16 AM|
|jdneal88||subscribed i am wanting to do this really bad. is fuel injection the only reason i would need the 4.3 computer or did you have to use it also?|
|11-12-2012 08:36 PM|
Update: I purchased a "BIG AL" accelerator peddal. Further research on my sticky cable and I noted that the cable, where it comes out of the firewall, is at more of a downward angle. WIth the stock peddal, there is no way of ligning it up and it be reliable. So, I got on the "bay", found the aftermarket aluminum gas peddal at a good price. Will have to drill a coupla mounting holes to mount it to the firewall. Also, havent decided if I am going to turn the carb around 180 degrees and pull from the front yet or not.
Also, I did decide to add a sound system to my jeep. Not a traditional system, but a Motorcycle 2 channel amp with a remote on/off/volume control. Basically, I hook up my iPhone to it, and I can play from my playlist, or I can use Pandora if in town. All this can be hidden either under the dash with only an extra 3.5mm plug in in the dash. Or, in my locking console with a pigtail hanging out the bottom. Nice and discrete. Oh, and the system comes with some waterproof 3.5 in speakers to boot. Made by shark audio. When I get it installed, will give a full report on this system. Granted, I wont be able to make my ears bleed, but, I will have tunes when I want them. And, I really dont have to worry about anybody stealing the system, not much there to steal. And, it was only 50 bucks.
Also, got the steering wheel on. Bought a basic, three spoke Grant with the hard Foam covering. The stock wheel is 15 in dia. This one, depending on where you read it is from 13.5 to 14 in in diameter. Was a little worried about getting a smaller steering wheel, me not having power steering, but it works great. The smaller wheel allows a little bit more room getting into the seat, dont have to scoot under the steering wheel, and the grippy surface of the Grant makes for easy steering. Pics to come later.
|11-12-2012 08:25 PM|
Hey Yellodude, When I was looking for a tranny, I had decided that I wanted a 3550, and I found one at an extremely nice price, $150, so I jumped on it. But, an AX15 is just as good. Also, if you decide to order your adapter kit thru Novak, be sure to check the Pilot bearing outer diameter with the actual diameter of your crank. Mine was off 30 thousandths and I destroyed it trying to get it in. Mic both, and if you have to, take it to a machine shop and get it turned down. Will save you mucho headaches.
Also, if your jeep is a 4 cyl now, prepare for a bit of engineering for the tranny mounting. There is a mounting plate that the 6 cyl use that is not on the 4 cyl that you have to have. Not expensive, but it is necessary. And, check to make sure that your engine mounts DO clear the front drive shaft, or you will have to lift your jeep if it is not already lifted. Good luck and if you feel the need, you can PM me if you run up against a problem. I probably ran into the same problem.
|11-10-2012 07:51 PM|
|Yellowdude||Nice build. I hope to do a similar swap in my 91 yj. Going to use an ax15 though|
|10-27-2012 04:16 PM|
|kruger||Just a small update on this. Jeep is running fine. There is one issue that I am having with the accelerator cable. I bought one of those universal cables at one of the autoparts stores. Comes with the mounts, and it is cut to fit for length. Well, the problem that I am having is that the cable movement is not smooth. From the firewall to the carb, it makes a sorta "s" bend. It is binding and "juttery" when I press down the on the gas. I was thinking about rotating the carb and pulling from the front. But, the aftermarket acc. bracket that I bought is too long. It will hit the distributor if I dont make any mods to the bracket. The bracket is one of those that looks like a "C" and mounts on the carb bolts. I have bought a 6 ft acc cable and will make it work, just havent got what I want in my head just yet.|
|10-13-2012 07:45 AM|
Thanks for posting those photos. With my build, I used a Painless electrical system. As I mentioned in my thread, the OEM wiring was arcing and the wire insulation was deteriorated in many places. I decided it was simpler to just set aside the money and get a new system. I took me almost half a year to save up, but it was worth it. That should be the last thing I have to do after I finish all of the small things that you mentioned in earlier posts. I have a clip board with three pages on it of all the small things I found that I have to finish on the jeep. It seems as I check one off, I find three more to add to the list. One day, it will be running, or so I tell myself.
But I do have one disappointment though... my son is only 11 years old and he was too young to really work on the jeep with me. I have five teenage daughters who helped when they could, but for the most part, I was hoping he could help me and learn. I believe all men should know how to fix things, work on things and reason them out. I think I will just have to get another project when this one is finished. My dad and I put a 327 in a Chevy Vega station wagon and it screamed!! I learned a lot from him and now that he is gone, I can't tell you how much I missed those moments...
Thanks again for the kind words, the photos and your posts. Those gauges look "first rate".
|10-12-2012 01:25 AM|
One other thing that I meant to post up.
The following pic shows the after market conversion radiator that I used. I is an aluminum cross flow. When I put it in, I was concerned that it was too tall to fit under the hood after the hood was put back on. Well, it fits just fine, just gave me pause when I first put it in.
|10-12-2012 01:20 AM|
And, apparently I cant edit a post. So, the info that I was going to put in post #2 ends up here. I have some more pics, in no particular order. Will try to describe what I am wanting to show in the pics.
This pic is a little better at showing the pulley bracket that I got from a Hyster. Notice there are three in a row with the alternator to the passenger side. This works great, cuz all I needed was the alternator in this build. I still have the power steering unit from the Astro Van donor motor and will use it in the future some time, but not really on the calender just yet. Also, there are two lines just to the right of the crank pulley. These are oil cooling lines.
Another shot of the bracket, passenger side. The front of the little V6 is just about even with the back of the alternator. You can see that there is plenty of room between the front of the motor and the radiator. Lots of room to get creative here. Also, made a shroud for the electric fan, just to help out a bit.
In this pic, there are a coupla things to point out. First, there is an oil cooler in front of the Radiator. The lines were in the first pic in this post. Anyway, after I put in the radiator with the oil cooler, I noticed that there was nothing to stop anything kicked up from the road going straight thru my oil cooler. Not really that big of an issue going into the radiator, a motor can survive over heating, but not the loss of engine oil. So, I cut a piece of expanded metal and made a coupla brackets, and mounted it in front of the radiator, behind the grill. I like the protection it provides and it should let in all the air that is needed.
A shot of the dash. Ditched the stock gauges, all of them. In this jeep, when I got it, they were all erratic. So, found a decent deal on a set of Speed Hut gauges. All are programmable, and made in the USA. These babies are not cheap, even this set from an individual was a bit pricey. And the price that I got this set was still less than I would have paid for a good set of VDO gauges. But, this set came with six units. And, were programmable, which was a big plus for me. On the left is a standard Tach. Nuthin fancy, but, as all Tachs, you can program it for the number of cylinders, pretty much like any other tach. On the right, now, this is a different story. This is a GPS Speedo. Pretty much eliminates the need for a speed pickup, and its associated problems. No wires, wheels, pickups, ect. to deal with. Just give it power and it does it thing. The little display on the bottom does way more than I will ever want it to do.
These next two shots show the other gauges. Left to right are:
Fuel gauge. This is the real reason that I was attracted to this particular set of gauges. When I was doing research on this build, I could not get a definite answer as to what the fuel sending unit was in my jeep, or, any early YJ. My fuel sending unit was not working, and I was going to try to get a 20 gal tank for this jeep eventually, which is another story, and I needed to replace the gauges NOW. This gauge is programmable, you hook up the wires, show it empty, show it full. Done. It works with any sending unit at all.
Next, Oil Pressure gauge.
This comes with its own pressure sending unit and pigtail wire. Attach the sending unit, plug in the wire, done.
Next is the Water Temp. Also comes with its own sending unit and pigtail. Works same as the oil gauge, just plug n play.
Last is the Volt meter. This one you just plug into your switched hot and it shows what you've got. I am a little up in the air on a Voltmeter. Not really sure that they are that necessary. Prefer a current meter, but you rarely see those on a car. Current meter in line with the output of the alternator would be so much more informative.
And, the last spot is empty. Going to buy a Vacuum gauge. Which, to me is the most important. If you know what you are looking at, a Vac gauge will tell you the health of a motor pretty quick.
Also, if it wasnt apparent, the gauge clusters are after market, bought them from Quadratec, both the Tach/SPeedo and the five gauge panel as well. Shot them with flat black, stuck them in.
I dont work for Speed Hut, not paid by them, nor am I affiliated with them at all. But, if you are in the market for new gauges, you might be impressed if you use a little google-fu and check them out. These gauges are really very customizable, not just in what they do, but as they look as well.
And, here is a shot of the Bestop seats that I got at a reasonable price locally. Used, out of a TJ. Took the bottom brackets off, put on the YJ brackets, and voila! New seats. Actually, this is the only thing that I have bought for this jeep that my wife has not "expressed her displeasure" about. Not that the seats that I had were bad, not at all. But, when I put in the truck bed liner, I put the passenger seat at the drivers position so that the seats would last longer. Everybody knows what happens to the drivers seat, gets a tear at the edge from the driver sliding in. She didnt like the tear being on "her" side. So, came across a set of seats, jumped on them and she is happy.
That is a leaf in the passenger seat, not a tear.
Next is a shot of an electrical block that I am using. During the course of this swap, there are a multitude of wires that needed to be deleted. And, just to keep things simple, and it not look like a Chinese string puzzle under the hood, I used this block to route all switched power and grounds back to a central point. In the vastly lacking wiring diagram that I have for this jeep, there are a multitude of switched wires going every where. I found several places in the harness that had the wires soldered in the middle of the wire and then out to "somewhere". I knew that all these points were potential problem areas and that I needed several new switched 12v lines. Routed one from the switch to the top of the block, the yellow one, same as stock, and used the other one for a grounding point. The ground is chassis ground, engine ground and back to the battery negative post. This is a solid ground for anything that I need. Also, the middle terminal is not being used, but I could use it as a battery + if I need to, and may in the future. Still have some wiring that I need to clean up, neaten up, but, that is in the future.
This is a shot of a fuse block that I mounted on the passenger fenderwell. I originally got this so that I could make it easy to route out to the electric cooling fan. But, have tapped into it for a coupla other circuits as well. One being the electric fuel pump. It just gives me some easy expansion room for the future. I may add some off road lights, and this would make it very easy to add them.
Now to the "TO DO" list.
My new lift kit. This is to fix the engineering error of the Motor mount. It is a 3.5 in lift made by Superlift. Came with everything except shocks, just put on a set of Black Diamonds and didnt want to replace them. This is my next project and I am not looking forward to it. As I stated, I did not want to lift this jeep at all, like it where it is. But, if I want 4wd, then it is necessary to do. I got it thru Quadratec, free shipping on this baby. Came in 5 very heavy boxes. I went thru the Quadratec guy here, gave my info, and he took care of everything else. Thanks for providing this service, it really helped out.
Also on the to do list is a new steering wheel. I havent decided which one yet, but it will be a Grant. Nuthin fancy, just a basic steering wheel with a horn button. And, I intend to get a train horn as well. That is the only "frivolous" thing that I will get for this jeep. I also havent decided to put in a stereo. Not leaning towards it at all. For one thing, its just something else for somebody to steal, not a good way to hide the speakers, nor secure them in. The console that I have in it has a place to put a stereo, but, I just dont want to give anybody a reason to screw with my jeep.
Tires and Wheels are in the future. For the rims, going with a black, no chrome at all. Tires will probably be 31's. Not looking for anything bigger than that. Really like the 285's that are on there, but, with the lift, I think they will clash with the lift. But, the wheels that I have now will have to go. Didnt like them when I got the jeep and have always planned to replace them. Will do for now tho.
Thats all for now, will post more as I have time, and something changes on the jeep.
|10-11-2012 11:08 PM|
1SAS. just to be clear, I was not complaining on the length of your posts in your build thread. I actually was glad that you were wordy, and, as you said, covered a lot of ground that is usually left out of these build threads. There is a ton that is left out of these threads, and I know why. There is so much that goes between " Hey, I am thinking about puttin' a chevy engine in my Jeep" to "Well, its finally running", that it is a daunting task to record the process. Why a certain thing was done and not some other way, or, going thru three pilot bearing, which, by-the-way, are NOT something that you can just go and buy, to all the little things that you just didnt think about until they had to be addressed. I applaud your ability to put to words the whole process, not something that I can easily do. I will try to get more pics and post them up, that is why I reserved the second post in this thread, for more pics.
Shootin you a PM with my address.
|10-11-2012 09:19 AM|
They are off... the roll bar covers. All I can say is one slipped off so nice and easy. The other... well, adult language created here, and I am still pissed off at that one bar for "holding onto that cover/sleeve." I actually had to take a fiberglass rod (the kind that comes on those refector posts you buy at Lowe's for your driveway) and I had to work it down and around both ends... only then, did it budge. When I removed the cover/sleeve, the bar was sticky and I have no idea why. Anyway, it was something I would only do for a fellow V6 Jeeper...
Send me your mailing information and I will ship it to you. Send me a money order for $10 when you can.
|10-11-2012 07:05 AM|
Thanks for the words. You are right, my thread does get wordy. I did most of it on purpose because of all the "words" that were left out in other V6 conversions on these forums. When I was deciding on how to do it, there were four threads and most left out a lot of pertinent information. I put that in and the thinking behind it so others could do it or do better than I did. It got wordy, but I think it was worth it.
I am glad your is running. I can't wait until mine is. When I get those roll bar pads/sleeves off, I will contact you. I hope you post some more photos.
|10-11-2012 12:20 AM|
|kruger||Cave Diver, to be honest, it would have probably been cheaper to swap in a 350 of some form. They are plentiful, parts are everywhere for them. Hell, you can sling a dead cat and hit a SBC and not even try to. And, to be honest, with the little bit of driving that I have done since I got the thing running, I really cant see the need for 300 hp in a Jeep. But, that is just me. The thing is thrilling to drive and I have to remind myself that it is only a jeep, not one of those Jap cars that looks like a space shuttle with the resonator can on it. I am having fun with this just the way that it is, and I aint done yet.|
|10-07-2012 08:49 PM|
|cavediverjc||Great build so far! It's nice to see people swapping engines into Jeeps that AREN'T SBCs. Nothing wrong with a SBC, it's just that they're too common. I like swaps that are a little "different", like a V6 or a SBF. Hell, even running a big block would be a cool swap to do! Keep us posted with this build. I admire your capabilities.|
|10-07-2012 08:22 PM|
Scooby, I did buy one of the ones off of the bay. 65k model. It seemed to be a decent deal and it works OK so far. Not finished grooming out the tuning yet, so an absolute "recommended buy" is on hold. But, it runs, and runs good. There is a slight "miss" at idle, but un-noticable under way. I am using regular spark plug wires, had them in my shop, and havent bought a set of the HEI wires yet. May be getting a little cross fire. Planning on getting a HEI set soon and see if that clears up the miss.
1SAS: Thanks for the encouragement. And, just to stroke your Ego a bit, I read every post in your thread prior to this build. Actually was one that I referred to a bit during this build. You get "wordy" in your posts, and, in this incident, that is a very good thing. Thanks for all the info.
Thanks for the offer of the pads, if you get the pads off, then I will take you up on the offer. ATM, I have a bikini top on and it sorta fits a little loose. I think that the pads will get it a little tighter and keep it from loosening up during driving.
Also, for me, there never really was any other choice for a motor for this jeep. The 4.3 just seems to be the perfect choice for a jeep. It is big enough to provide more than enough power and small enough that it wont crowd out the engine compartment. To be honest, it was more expensive to go the carb route, had to buy the distributor, intake, and carb. Also, the mod to the gas tank and buying the fuel pump were added expenses that you would not incur with a fuel injection set up. And, while on the fuel tank, there are a coupla things that I want to share. First, a 97 TJ will not fit in an 89 jeep. Flat out too wide. And, there is a difference between normal fuel hose and fuel hose that is present inside the fuel tank. BIG difference in price, but it is necessary.
As I think about it, the motor mount issue, I think I know where things went south on me. I got an nv3550 out of a 04. And, during the engineering phase, I was counting on the tranny mounting in the same place as the AX5. Didnt happen. Had to mount it back about 2 inches. I modified the Skid plate to mount the tranny bracket on. It put my motor mount back a little further, and with the front axle out, I didnt notice the problem until I put the axle back in. If I had not had to mount it back further, it would have been closer to the front axle and I would have seen the problem sooner. And, forward two inches would have given me more room to tilt the motor up to clear the distributor from the fire wall. As I stated, I did not want to lift this jeep at all. Really like it where it is. But, a 3.5 in lift is on the way, should be here first part of next week.
|10-06-2012 07:47 AM|
Great build!! I put an Astro Van 4.3 V6 in my 1992 YJ and did a "frame up restoration." My goal was to cure all of my jeep "ills" and make it so much simpler to work on. I am not finished yet, but I will be soon. What I have left is to do some body work and put in my electrical system.
If you want those YJ support bars for the windshield, actually the sleeves/covers for them, I will send them to you for $10 for shipping, once I figure how to pull the darn things off. The inside foam is kind of stuck to the bars and I did notice one small tear that is about an inch long. Either way, for $10 their yours since "they are as rare as hen's teeth."
P.S. Check out my build and let me know what you think. I always look for the V6 builds because it just seems to be the perfect swap for a jeep.
|10-05-2012 08:35 PM|
|Scooby88||What HEI did you use? I've been seeing them on ebay....any good?|
|10-03-2012 05:33 PM|
|kruger||reserved for future info|
|10-03-2012 05:33 PM|
89 YJ with 4.3 Vortec
Well, I just could not stand it. The little 4 cly that came in my jeep was on its last leg and needed a rebuild. Checked out the local machine shop and got a little sticker shock on the price for the 2.5 rebuild. It was.......unreasonable. So, I figured that I could add a little money to the rebuild price and get a really decent motor in my jeep. Finally got it running on its own today. For anybody that is interested, here are the specs on this build:
99 4.3 out of an Astro Van
NV3550 out of a 2004 TJ
Novac Motor mts
Novac Transmission adapter
Novac Slave cylinder
AA transfer case linkage adapter
That is the big stuff, lots of little stuff in there as well. And, it seems that the little stuff is what causes all of the Adult language to be created.
Before I started this build, I really did a lot of research on what it would take, things to look out for, and things to avoid. I can tell you that I did not do enough research at all. I am an older guy, know my way around an engine and have been a shade tree mechanic all my life. Do all my own car work, mostly. So this seemed "doable". And, for the most part, it is, if your jeep is not your primary car. Also, the route that I took was a little pricey compared to what others have done. Any way, on to the pics.
I got this jeep for a really good price and I knew that the engine was needing some attention when I got it. It was originally white, several shades of white. Didnt want a white jeep, and I decided on a Green/black color scheme. Rattle can all the way.
This is the way that the jeep looks now, but, because of my inferior engineering skills, I have to lift it. Didnt want to, but, I guess that I can live with it lifted. When I welded in the motor mounts, I failed to notice that the mounts were directly above the front axle U-joint. So, as the jeep moves, it bounces on the front drive axle. Lift kit is on the way and front drive axle is in my garage for the time being.
Here is the engine. I opted to go with a carburetor. I love carbs. Grew up on them and know how to make them work. They are simple to fix and I can get home if I need to if there is a problem. Side note here: I am a trained Electronics tech. Work as an instrument man in a Paper mill. I am not intimidated by the electrical aspects of a fuel injection system. Did a lot of research on the swap. About six wires stabbed into my wiring harness and an ECM reprogram was all that was needed to integrate the stock fuel injection for the 4.3 into this build. BUT, I wanted a carb. So, that is what you see here.
In this pic you will notice that the pulleys are not what you would call stock. I salvaged the pulley brackets and alternator from a Hyster clamp truck. It seems that the Hysters use a 4.3 vortec as a motor. How convenient. The brackets are heavy cast iron and should not ever break or bend. Also, the alternator is a GM 7si. Rated for 70 amps. More than enough for my jeep. Also, I dont have AC or power steering (yet) and neither did the Hyster. All it had was an alternator, and thats all I needed.
Next pic, you will see my shoddy placement of the motor mounts. When I put the engine in, the front drive shaft was not in. So, I sorta ignored it, until it was too late. I could grind out the mount and re-position it about an inch further back, but, even doing that , it may not be enough to miss the drive shaft. And, I really cant mount it any higher, I have an HEI distributor on the back of the motor. Gotta watch the clearance on that.
I wont go into all the little things that I screwed up on the way to this point in my jeeps life. And, there are many of them. Most of you guys have seen this sorta of build before, so I aint breaking any new ground here.