Jeep Wrangler Forum - Reply to Topic
Jeep Wrangler Forum

Go Back   Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Jeep Wrangler Forum > YJ Build Forum > clutch proublem

Join Wrangler Forum Today


Thread: clutch proublem Reply to Thread
Title:
  
Message:
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Jeep Wrangler Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

Topic Review (Newest First)
04-30-2013 01:56 PM
cakes567 I did. There was so much stuff and so many different ways to do it I wasn't sure what the best way to do it is
04-30-2013 11:50 AM
BCDonny before you guys did this work did you ever try to google it first to find out how to do it correctly, there is tons of stuff on this on the net to do it right and what to look for. I always do tons of reading before I start a project. Just my 2 cents
04-30-2013 10:51 AM
cakes567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Carralo1 View Post

The first time you engage the clutch, the hydraulic pressure breaks them free
Oh I just took em off.
04-30-2013 09:59 AM
Carralo1
Quote:
Originally Posted by cakes567 View Post
If you dont remove thoes plastic strips how is the slave cylinder sapost to move? I removed mine. I checked all my connections. And I got my clutch kit from a company called clutch star. Its the same brand as the one that I removed. It was the exact same thing.
The first time you engage the clutch, the hydraulic pressure breaks them free
04-30-2013 09:01 AM
cakes567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mattador1516 View Post
Let me say this. Ive been a hydraulic mechanic for 15 years. Bleeding any hydraulic system should ALWAYS be done multiple times. However, It is in your best interest to inspect EVERY connection for leaks/seepage, or excessive corrosion. Oh, change your fluid on a regular basis.
So its normal to have to bleed it more then once is what your saying? Is this sort of a common problem with these hydro clutches? I've never done one like this before so this is kind of new to me.
04-30-2013 08:59 AM
cakes567 If you dont remove thoes plastic strips how is the slave cylinder sapost to move? I removed mine. I checked all my connections. And I got my clutch kit from a company called clutch star. Its the same brand as the one that I removed. It was the exact same thing.
04-30-2013 08:06 AM
Mattador1516 Let me say this. Ive been a hydraulic mechanic for 15 years. Bleeding any hydraulic system should ALWAYS be done multiple times. However, It is in your best interest to inspect EVERY connection for leaks/seepage, or excessive corrosion. Oh, change your fluid on a regular basis.
04-30-2013 06:54 AM
dan high I got an AutoZone clutch kit an no I did not cut the retainer clip the instructions said not to .... The only thing I was sketchy was the o rings it made it sound like I should put two o rings on each line so I did that but I have never put more than one on any line ever ....
04-29-2013 11:43 PM
Carralo1 One correct bleeding is all you should need, and the pedal shouldn't go soft again. You guys must have some leaks. Just curious, what brands did you all use and did you all disconnect or cut the black plastic strips on the slave cylinder?
04-29-2013 09:26 PM
cakes567
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan high View Post
U did when it was hot ? An u saw more air in the line again ?
Hot meaning my motor being hot? Not really. I let it cool down a little bit before I did anything. And I saw a little more air in the line but wasn't to much
04-29-2013 09:02 PM
dan high U did when it was hot ? An u saw more air in the line again ?
04-29-2013 07:26 PM
cakes567 It got soft again today on my way home. Bled it the same way again and then I drove farther then my normal and it didn't get very soft at all. So its looking good. I may have to bleed it 1 or 2 more times. So im hopeful you can get yours figured out as well.
04-29-2013 07:39 AM
cakes567 Yes I did. I saw big ones at first then I started to see really small ones then none at all. It was really helpful.
04-29-2013 07:36 AM
dan high My question is u did see air bubbles in the line when u used the tubing method ?
04-29-2013 07:31 AM
cakes567 I drove my jeep today and it felt like the clutch got a little soft. Im gonna bleed it again when I get home and I'll probley have to do it a few times. I really hope this works!
04-28-2013 03:07 PM
dan high Well I guess my lines will have air in them to I need to get that small tubing to bleed mine the same way
04-28-2013 03:01 PM
cakes567 I haven't drove it yet to find out. I tore all my carpet out and washed the inside of my jeep
04-28-2013 12:09 PM
dan high So u got no change in ur clutch ? It's raining here today so I'm gona do mine again on a sunny day
04-28-2013 11:53 AM
cakes567 Just bleed mine. I repeated the steps about 5 or 6 times until I have no bubbles in the line
04-28-2013 10:15 AM
cakes567 So let me know how this method works out for you. I'm gonna go try it in a few min when I get the chance
04-28-2013 09:26 AM
dan high Me to
04-28-2013 08:44 AM
cakes567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tattoo Tony View Post
JUst curious how you guys were trying to bleed the system. The procedure described by haven is how you bleed the clutch as well as brakes. You shouldnt have an issue unless, like he said, you have a leak in the system somewhere.
I was blessing mine like how you would bleed breaks. Pump them up hold it to the floor then crack the bleeder screw. Then repeat
04-28-2013 04:46 AM
Tattoo Tony JUst curious how you guys were trying to bleed the system. The procedure described by haven is how you bleed the clutch as well as brakes. You shouldnt have an issue unless, like he said, you have a leak in the system somewhere.
04-27-2013 11:33 PM
cakes567
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan high View Post
Me to so please let me know if this way works an I will do the same
Cool. I think I'm gonna give it a try tomarow if I get the chance
04-27-2013 10:47 PM
dan high Me to so please let me know if this way works an I will do the same
04-27-2013 09:58 PM
cakes567
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wrangler Haven View Post
Get some clear tubing (Aquarium airline tubing works perfect) and an old jar. Hook the tubing to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in the jar in some clutch fluid. Open the bleeder screw and have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal to the floor. Close the bleeder screw then release the pedal. Top off fluid in the reservoir then repeat several more times.
If at any time you see an air bubble come out through the tube then either you didn't get the air out the first time or you've got an air leak.
Possible locations of an air leak is the bleeder screw or line fittings, or bad O-rings on the Slave Cylinder. If the problem is the latter, you may not notice fluid loss for quite some time as it will take awhile for it to drip out of the front of the bell housing (if it's internal).
If you do not see an air bubble come out through the tube then you have a defective or wrong Master Cylinder.
Finally, this may seem like a no brainer, but make sure your clutch pedal return spring hasn't become disconnected.
I'm gonna try how you said to bleed it. Iv been doing it how you would bleed breaks
04-27-2013 07:07 PM
Wrangler Haven Get some clear tubing (Aquarium airline tubing works perfect) and an old jar. Hook the tubing to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in the jar in some clutch fluid. Open the bleeder screw and have a helper depress and hold the clutch pedal to the floor. Close the bleeder screw then release the pedal. Top off fluid in the reservoir then repeat several more times.
If at any time you see an air bubble come out through the tube then either you didn't get the air out the first time or you've got an air leak.
Possible locations of an air leak is the bleeder screw or line fittings, or bad O-rings on the Slave Cylinder. If the problem is the latter, you may not notice fluid loss for quite some time as it will take awhile for it to drip out of the front of the bell housing (if it's internal).
If you do not see an air bubble come out through the tube then you have a defective or wrong Master Cylinder.
Finally, this may seem like a no brainer, but make sure your clutch pedal return spring hasn't become disconnected.
04-27-2013 05:32 PM
dan high Ok u have my attention it's not losing any fluid .... So where should I start ?
04-27-2013 04:58 PM
Wrangler Haven Okay first off, It will always grind going into reverse even with a new clutch because there is no Synchro for the reverse gear. Get in the habit of touching first just before you go into reverse each time and you will never grind.
As far as the clutch pedal, there should be only 1" of free play at the top. If your pedal has more than 1", then you have air in your lines. If you bled the system properly, then you have an air leak somewhere.
04-27-2013 02:11 PM
dan high I'm at the point now that before I come to a complete stop I down shift in to first it just how it is ..... It sux but I have did all I know to do
This thread has more than 30 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 07:49 AM.



Jeep®, Wrangler, Liberty, Wagoneer, Cherokee, and Grand Cherokee are copyrighted and trademarked to Chrysler Motors LLC.
Wranglerforum.com is not in any way associated with the Chrysler Motors LLC