|07-16-2013 11:44 PM|
|wrangler0232||I would soak them for a few days jus to be safe y not it cant hurt|
|07-16-2013 08:37 PM|
|Mom sold the Jeepster||I drilled through the front shock top mounting bolt, PB blaster never helped, the shock tube would spin but that bolt wouldn't budge. Drill took just a minute, but I spent hours on blaster and trying to muscle it off|
|05-10-2013 04:53 PM|
How long would the pb blaster soak need to settle in before the bolts come loose?
I've been trying to remove the front shock upper bolts on and off for HOURS today....no luck!!! I've sprayed the crap out of them with PB....
I want to just rip the shocks out so the bolt just snaps off, as I've read in other posts, but I don't have the clearance I need due to the brake lines getting in the way....
|04-30-2013 04:51 PM|
Surprised people have issues with the top fronts... mine were super easy - though gaining access to them was the tricky part since the holes in the fender metal didn't line up with how I would need to insert a rachet end.
When I did the rears, both bolts broke off on the driver's side even after soaking in penetrating oil. Was a real pain to chisel the welded nuts off the back so I could put in new ones.
I don't know what it is with jeep and rear shock mounts. The bolts for XJ's easily snap as well.
|04-30-2013 04:31 PM|
I have changed the shocks on both my Jeeps, a 98 and a 06 LJ. My biggest problem was the top fronts. The second time, I used a angle grinder and cut the top of the shocks off. That was much faster and easier.
The rear shocks I soaked with PB, and I didn't have any problems. I sprayed them down 2 or 3 times. After I removed the bolts, I used wire brushes on both the nuts and the bolts to clean threads, no problems.
|04-30-2013 03:01 PM|
|jeepinggeorge||I have a 2003 Jeep TJ 4.0L Sport which was purchased new and has been driven year round in Nova Scotia. When I finally decided to tackle the long overdue task of replacing the rear shocks I was a bit disappointed at the design of the top mounts. The bolt heads were very rusted and there was basically no access to the top nuts. It was pretty obvious that trying to remove these bolts was going to snap all four of them off. After thinking about it for a few days I decided to use a grinder to cut an access hatch behind the rear seat above each shock mount. Heated the nuts with a torch and removed bolts breaking only one. Used an air chisel to remove the nut with the broken bolt in it, used a washer and new nut in it's place. I had only cut the access hatches on three sides and folded them up, so when finished I was able to fold them back down and silicone the edges. Once the carpet was re-installed you would never know, and if I ever have to replace the rear shocks again it should be a bit quicker. Oh, and be careful with the torch above the driver's side rear shock, the gas tank is right there.|
|04-13-2013 03:31 PM|
|rgroesbeck1||Forgot one thing -- yes, Patrick, that is a very clean undercarriage. Jealous here in the land of rust. We fight it constantly.|
|04-13-2013 03:29 PM|
I soaked mine and still broke one of the bolts on the upper left rear. Chiseled off the welded nut, put in a new bolt and nut, and hopefully won't have to worry about it for at least ten years. Then maybe I'll be doing work with the tub off anyway, so I'll weld bolts down through the frame, use different mounts, or something. Hate this mounting system. Considered the BPE solution, but you still have to bolt in the shock to the mount on the frame. So I did not do it. I have Bilstein 5100s and absolutely love them, have not noted any clunking after the install.
Absolutely soak the bolts.
|04-13-2013 12:59 PM|
|Hiatus83||i soaked mine with pb, and then had to heat the shiznit out of them, was not able to reuse old bolts, replaced all... and front shocks had to cut top nuts off... bottoms came off fine and upper mounts on rear shocks are a biznitch to get off cause they are at a weird angle...|
|04-13-2013 12:44 PM|
|Ryman12||I busted 3 out of 4 on mine even after soaking them in PB blaster. I just used an air chisel to punch out the welded nut and then I managed to squeeze a new nut and washer up there. Granted I have a 1" BL, but I can still fit a box-end wrench on the nut when I need to take them off.|
|04-13-2013 12:20 PM|
I have a 2001 Wrangler TJ, and yes the rear bolts snapped in a second. The rear bolts will break, drilling is then required. I recommend having a shop remove your rear shocks, drill new holes. Drive the Jeep back to your place, install Bar Pin Eliminators with your new shocks, then you'll never have to worry about those stupid rusted bolts ever again.
BPE are the best choice when replacing factory shocks. Get rid of the whole bar pin, they slide left and right every bump you hit. You can clearly hear a rattle coming from the bar pins. Purchased Bilstein 5100 Series shocks, took out the barpin/bushing. Replaced the bushings with Engery Suspention bushings [Manufacture Part #9.8107R] (Universal Shock Eyes, Standard Hourglass Shaped Style ID 5/8 in. L-1 7/16 in.) fit perfectly. Then installed JKS Front and Rear BPE (Front PN 9603) (Rear PN 9604). The shocks have no room for traveling left to right on the bar pins anymore. The BPE squeeze the bushings to ensure there is no left to right movement. Got rid of the rattling immediately. Any questions on installation feel free to ask.. Time consuming, but a very simple install.
|03-31-2013 11:57 AM|
|03-31-2013 08:36 AM|
|Mom sold the Jeepster||I drilled through the top nut/post with a 3/8 bit on the front shocks after wasting hours on pb blaster and muscles. Took about 0 minutes per side to drill.|
|03-31-2013 07:39 AM|
|kjeeper10||I watched the poor tech at sears break the 2 rear uppers years ago. I let them deal with it being free|
|03-30-2013 10:44 PM|
|03-30-2013 10:40 PM|
|03-30-2013 10:34 PM|
No rust on mine at all. Texas raised though.
Damn Patrick, do you ever take that thing out if the garage?? Haha
|03-30-2013 10:20 PM|
Depends on what kind of climate the Jeep has been in. Mine came from Albuquerque NM, garage kept, and never off road. There's basically no rust underneath, on any bolts, nuts, or otherwise. For example, these are the factory lower shock bolts.
Factory lower rear bolts..
|03-30-2013 10:06 PM|
|BLK00TJ||I didn't have any problems at all taking them off for the first time when my Jeep was 10 years old. However, a year later I busted two of them putting on newer shocks. I should have used anti-seize. You can use a torch to loosen any loc-tite on them and spray them with kroil or PB blaster to improve chances of not busting bolts.|
|03-30-2013 09:59 PM|
Troubles replacing shocks
Does it seem to be absolutely necessary to pre-soak the bolts/nuts with Blaster or such on a Jeep Wranglers (8-12 year olds) in order to get the shocks off, both front and rear?
Has anyone, or very many owners, replaced their shocks without doing any soaking and didn't bust any of the bolts? The news of this happening is a little scary since I'd have no way getting busted bolts out.
Thinking about installing new shocks on my 2001 Sahara 4.0 automatic running 31" tires. Everything else is stock, used mostly as a tow vehicle behind a motor home with a little mountain trail runs while on vacation and some highway travel sight seeing. Thought maybe about trying either Monroe Frequency Damping (think that's what they're called) or Bilstenes.