|05-23-2013 02:24 PM|
2.5" JK Lift Kit w/Adapters - No Shocks (4 dr)
I was thinking of running a set up like this for starters. It's always upgrade-able down the line.
|05-23-2013 11:48 AM|
|dashlast||Putting the AEV 2.5 on a 2013 JKUR on the 3rd. Thanks for the info on the ride to all who posted. Looking forward to my new ride!|
|05-07-2013 01:24 PM|
|05-07-2013 12:58 PM|
|05-06-2013 02:39 PM|
|MichiganJeepster||I am running the AEV 2.5" Dual sport lift with Bilstein 5100's and geometry correction brackets, 315 BFG All Terrains on AEV Pintler wheels with AEV rear tire carrier and love it. Much improved over stock and AEV gets me through anywhere I want to take it. Highway ride is amazing for a lifted Jeep and off road it flexes well and absorbs ruts like a champ. Great company to deal with too. This is the best lift for a daily driver in my opinion although beware of the height you will gain. 4" in the front and 3" in the back with stock bumpers and no winch.|
|05-05-2013 08:53 AM|
Off road is MUCH improved, soaks up smaller bumps, more compliant one the larger ones.
The lift is everything AEV says it will be, I'm really happy with it, my wife tells me she is happy we got it. And that last is the key phrase...
|05-04-2013 11:22 AM|
Suspension for dummies
So, DJ, all really good info and lots of snippets for me to google and learn.
But really what I wanted to illustrate (and maybe a hint to some of the vendors here) is that while disjointed searches and bits of info are great, how awesome would it be to have a few "validated" start to finish "Things to consider before lifting your Jeep" and "Suspension parts, what they do and how they interact" articles or stickies with pictures or videos on this forum? The one posted earlier from Teraflex is an excellent example. And, I'm finding more and more TF videos that show a lot of info!
Here are a few I have found so far, from off the forums. They seem reasonable, but I am not yet smart enough (nor do I expect to become experienced enough) to separate real world performance from marketing hype. Also, many are generic without the level of detail one requires to learn the basics.
I guess the expectation is that if you buy a Jeep, you should already know most of this stuff.
12 Things to Know About "Lifted" Suspension Engineering
Lift Kits, Truck Lift Kits, & Suspension Lift Kits from 4 Wheel Parts
Suspension Lift Kits, Body Lifts, Leveling Kit, 4x4, Jeep, Chevy, Dodge, Ford, Off-road Truck - great Jeep suspension pics on the home page, would be useful if they were explained in detail what each component does!
This may be taking this thread off topic, so maybe I need to move this post and start a new one.
|05-04-2013 10:12 AM|
Well, here a couple things I concluded myself after doing both a little research and my initial lift.
1.) Unless you are getting into custom fabrication, none of the suspension components on the Jeep are particularly hard to work with. My lift was the first I installed and I did it with hand tools in my overly tiny garage with bad light.
1.a.) More people should use high grade flanged nuts/bolts. Replacing a stock flanged bolt/nut with a non-flanged after market model is...frustrating. If it were easy to get a wrench on the darn thing, it wouldn't be flanged in the first place.
1.b.) Measure before hand to generate some reference data. This will make it easier to not just ID how much lift you netted, but also to center your axle with an adjustable track bar, etc.
2.) Linear springs are fine for a lift, but it can be difficult to match linear springs and shocks once you go over about two inches of lift. Take a look at your suspension and you realize that your springs and shocks mount in different locations and have very different extended and compressed length. Adding 2.5-3.5 inches of free length to your coils (as a linear rate, 2.5 or 3.5 inch lift does) will not account for the added droop of long travel shocks in some cases. The other side of the equation is that the shocks sold for 0-2.5 inch lifts are often too short to take advantage of the additional free length of the coil. It's worth some added consideration - do you want more up travel or down travel from your static ride height?
2.a.) Most lifts use a higher spring rate to account for accessories like winches, bumpers and armor that will be added by many off road enthusiasts - which means that your coils will compress less AND they start with a longer free length. That's how folks end up with substantially more than the advertised lift height. The people making the coil don't know your Jeep - they just know they don't want someone buying their 2.5 inch lift and only getting 2 inches. Know the rate AND free length of the springs you want to use before you buy and you can determine how much actual lift you'll realize versus your stock setup. To use myself as an example again, my 3" lift is advertised as a 2" lift. However, I knew this would be the case because the coils I purchased were 2.5 in. longer than stock AND higher rate - the folks at Northridge 4x4 and I discussed the different coil options and specifically selected those coils for that height.
3.) Don't forget the details if you want to really wheel it (and you will at some point!). Sway bar links and/or quick disconnects are something that I see folks ignore with a fair amount of frequency - not a great idea. Also, bear in mind you might need new wheels and/or wheel spacers to address clearance issues after you lift. Depending on how much longer your shock's extended length is, an exhaust spacer or a new drive shaft may be in order. The fine people at TeraFlex measured it out at around 2 1/4 inches of additional down travel before the drive shaft made contact with the exhaust cross over. If you relocate or modify the exhaust cross over, consider how that will affect your skid plate/armor options if you are considering additional protection. Don't forget to either pull your brake lines out of the stock brackets or move the bracket if you stick with the stock lines. On the 2012 a later model JK, the stock brake lines are actually longer than some of the after market "extended" lines sold for 2007-2011 models. No need to go with new lines for many lifts, but you do need to remove or modify the stock bracket to ensure you have the slack/travel where you need it.
|05-03-2013 10:23 PM|
|RKracing||Hey now Big daddy.....I say forget all that stuff! Go Balls To Da Wall! Evo 4" Long arm kit will rock your world. There is NO WAY that you would regret it at all, never even for a second Then you have room for the 37's that you really want. Your the man of your pad, are you not? Get off the porch and run with the Big Dogs.....I'm getting my boots on now to run with them! Party On!|
|05-03-2013 10:04 PM|
Good advice DJ, and I can get on-board with that philosophy. My immediate issue is that while I was eyeball deep in aviation, cars never really interested me before I got the Jeep. So while am somewhat versed in the aerodynamic merits of gap seals and wheel fairings, and very interested in engine management and mixture control in Lycomming IO-540s, I am so uneducated about suspension components and parts that I can't make that informed decision. I have learned the hard way about "throw away" upgrades and in aviation that's about triple the cost of most other endeavors.
I am learning more and more each day as I read the forum, and the contrasting opinions are good for me because I have to go and research to see which ones I think are supportable by data and which ones are just opinions. There are a lot of smart people here, and it's been one of the better internet forums I've come across in a long time.
So a thank you to everyone for sharing experiences. I have no need to be in a hurry to do anything until I become less ignorant, although the itch to mod is maddening.
|05-03-2013 05:38 PM|
I'll throw a vote out there for build your own lift - or rather, select your own components.
As I look around it occurs to me - most lift kits/packages don't save money over the components separately, or not significantly so.
So, I'd tell you to find the components you like and price them out - compare it to what a off the shelf kit would cost and decide for yourself which better suits your needs.
Also, regardless of which parts/kit you go with, buy something you can grow into. By that, I mean don't set yourself up with a bunch of parts that you'll need to swap out for newer/better parts if you upgrade your lift. Let me give you an example:
I've got a set of OME springs - they gave me 3 inches of lift and they work just fine. It accomplished my initial goal of providing my Unlimited Rubicon enough increase in break over angle to not drag my belly all over Uwharrie. I debated between the long travel OME shocks and the standard length shocks. I ended up purchasing the standard length shocks. Here's where it gets interesting...
Does my lift do what I want - well, it does what I WANTED. What I want now, because this is a cycle/process, is longer travel shocks. That means I'll be a good 200 down on top of my initial purchase price IF I get 45-50 a shock on resale - and that's a dubious proposition at best. Or, I could get shock adapters, which I sort of want in the rear anyhow for clearance. But, that's an inelegant solution.
I guess that's a long winded way of saying that if I want to upgrade my current setup I must swap parts - I cannot simply add to it. So, if you're better at learning from folks than I am, do yourself a favor and ID parts that allow you to upgrade your overall performance without changing them out and design the remainder of the lift around them. Think about shock travel, ground clearance, what size tires you want to run, etc.
|05-03-2013 04:21 PM|
|05-03-2013 04:13 PM|
|05-03-2013 11:57 AM|
|05-03-2013 11:11 AM|
Here is a link to a TF video that does a good job explaining the pros and cons of different size and type of lifts. Call one of the forum vendor's (Northridge, Quadratec, Extreme Terrain,....) as well and they can help explain the different option and recommendations.
|05-03-2013 11:03 AM|
Kids are 6 and 9 yr old boys, and are little monkeys. They can climb anything.
Gotta really think this through.
All - thanks for the input, gives me a lot to consider and research.
Does anyone know of a Lift kit 101 article? Or Jeep suspension for dummies?
|05-03-2013 10:32 AM|
In all fairness the reason most people like myself upgrade or add things to our lifts is because we continue to push the limits of our jeeps off road so we learn that we need more flex or more control not because the original lift kit wasn't sufficient or complete.
The realty is there is hardly any difference between the top suspension companies so the best kit is purely subjective and we all think we have the best setup.
|05-03-2013 07:56 AM|
I, like most, drive on road more than off road. I want superior handing on both, I am going with AEV and geometry correction brackets, installing today. Many folks on this forum have that lift and believe that the on road handling is better after the lift! I also noted that those same folks do not seem to be "upgrading" their lifts frequently. Do it right the first time, that leaves you with more time and money to drive it in the dirt.
|05-03-2013 01:06 AM|
Jax, you have 2 little kids, the wife drives the Jeep more than you do, and you want to stay with the stock tires. You will occasionally be pulling a Seadoo to the beach.
Dont waste your money on a lift unless you're just dying to have one. If you wanna do something, get leveling kit pucks to straighten out the rake and pick it up an inch.
Wife will thank you every time she DOESNT have to pick up the kids and crawl up into your Jeep, lol. Then you can spend money on other cool mods!
|05-02-2013 10:09 PM|
I had the 2.5 on my 2011 JKU with 33's and never noticed any issue but now I have the same kit on my 12 JKU with 35's and the handling was terrible until I put the lower control arms on. It might just depend on specific types of configurations.
TF even recommends on their website that you should install front lower control arms and rear uppers with their 3" lifts on a 4 door.
|05-02-2013 10:01 PM|
Within our immediate Jeep group there are 9 Jeeps on the 2.5" TF kits and not one complains of caster issues.
Toe in is critical once lifted. It appears that a Jeep that has excessive toe at factory height will have wandering and bumpsteer issues once lifted. Adding a drop bracket would solve that but that doesn't fix the toe in.
|05-02-2013 04:36 PM|
I drove my 09 without the AEV drop brackets and the TF 2.5 BB for a little while and to agree with what you said...ride was the same.
Driving however was a 2 handed, controllable, but unpleasant event. Installed the drop brackets to fix the castor and life was good again. In my case it was a very big difference.
It now drives one handed with confidence.
|05-02-2013 03:05 PM|
|05-02-2013 02:34 PM|
Wow opinions sure differ here..
Our Jeeps spend 90% of the time on the highway. I ran 2.5" TF lifts on 2 Jeeps with shock extensions and they both handle like stock with NO extra components other then what came in the TF kits. The spring lift is a little stiffer but the budget boost rode exactly like stock. There is No need for adjustable control arms or adjustable front track bar on a 2.5" lift.
The point of the AEV drop brackets is so you don't need adjustable control arms.. The AEV brackets just do the same thing as lengthening the lower control arm, they return the castor to near factory spec..
The bad wrap AEV gets is from the hardcore guys who complaint that the drop brackets really get beat up bad on the trails cause they hang down.
|05-02-2013 02:02 PM|
Jaxpilot you and your A&P buddy will breeze thru a lift install.
I suspect some of the problems that rear their ugly head are due to lazy installers.
It would be real easy to think you could get away with not loosening all upper and lower control arm bolts (before install) or the even bigger one is if an installer is installing the lift, and the jeep is up in the air, tightening bolts (after the lift install) without the jeep being weight on wheels. It certainly would be easier to tighten/torque with the jeep in the air, but this is not the correct way.
Cheapest way to lift IMO is TF budget boost 2.5" + AEV drop brackets should give you same ride as stock. The springs stay the same as do the shocks (if you use the extensions). The AEV drop brackets keep the control arms as if they are at stock angles. This may be the answer to both you and the OP but that depends on what your needs are.
Like I said before not one company mentioned in all the previous posts is going to give you a bad product. It just comes down to what you want/need.
My 09 Rubicon I have this exact set-up plus the TF adjustable front track bar. It does everything I want offroad and drives and rides as good as any stock jeep.
I could say the same about my AEV 2.5"+ AEV drop brackets, lift on my 13 sport.
Youtube has exact install videos for TF budget boost.
Good Luck to both of you.
Last thing...Your wife may not like getting in and out of the jeep after the lift.
|05-02-2013 01:44 PM|
|05-02-2013 01:26 PM|
|Z-TJ||It only let me post one pic. Oh and the ladies love it|
|05-02-2013 01:25 PM|
|Z-TJ||I have the the Rock Krawler Flex 2.5" and could not be happer! It ride just as good as stock if not better. I paired it with some Blistien 5100s. Here are some pics.|
|05-02-2013 01:17 PM|
Yes. Like I said above, the front adjustable trackbar and front adjustable lower control arms will really help with the on road drivablity. Without it, the front axle wont be where it needs to be and the JK will feel flighty and wonder a bit. Some see it more than others though. So, you dont HAVE to hav them but it is a good ideal.
Here is a link to the TF 2.5" with shocks that your looking at with free shipping:
TeraFlex JK 2.5 inch Lift Kit, W/Shocks
Here is a great option for the trackbar and control arms that would be cheaper than going the TF route. Still free shipping as well:
Rock Krawler Bomb Proof Adjustable Front Track Bar
Rock Krawler High Clearance Adjustable Front Lower Control Arms
Then, not sure what year your JK is but if it is a 2012-13, you will need one of these too:
TeraFlex JK Exhaust Spacer Kit for 2012-13 Driver and Passenger
If you have any other questions, please let me know my friend!
|05-02-2013 01:12 PM|
|rhinoxj89||Sounds like the Teraflex 2.5 with shocks will be the way for me to go. Should i look into drop brackets or trackbar for the teraflex?|
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