|05-02-2013 05:37 PM|
|GoldenSahara00||Not really. It would defeat the purpose of the arms, and only switch one fixed length for another. Unless they were EXACTLY the length you needed, it still wouldn't be perfect. I would just get a set of adjustables.|
|05-02-2013 03:44 PM|
|05-02-2013 03:29 PM|
fixed length lowers would be fine...provided you know exactly what length you need, and have no interest in adjusting them later down the road.
problem is you don't know what length you need till you get the arms installed, and adjusted to correct your axle position. so you could conceivably make/buy a set of adjustable arms, figure out what length they need to be, then make/buy a set of fixed arms of that length. but then that seems counter-productive doesn't it?
|05-02-2013 03:19 PM|
Not to threadjack but this is pretty much my same situation. I don't have a SYE yet (currently have a T-Case drop), 4" lift, and stock arms all the way around. As I read UnlimitedLJ04's posts (here and everywhere) I have come to the conclusion that the only set I currently "need" would be the Front Lowers to adjust my caster and regain some of my steering stability. I say "need" because I am not including the joint/arm improvement over stock but rather looking at length and geometry.
That said and if I am correct, would getting a fixed length set be a viable option?
|05-02-2013 09:59 AM|
If you are super concerned about ride and correct geometry and stability, you would gain much more out of redoing all your links AND mount points on frame and axle in order to correct to or improve over stock. More money than just getting adjustable arms, but if you are at your set ride height and plan on sticking with the setup you have, it would definitely be worth it. Takes a lot of know how, or someone competent to help you.
As far as gains with a change in wheelbase, you may be able to squeeze a few inches out in stock form, but I don't believe there will be much of a difference over what you have now, and compare that to the grand or so you have to spend on links, well it's not worth it to do for that sole purpose. Adjusting your caster and pinion angles to be correct, as UnlimitedLJ04 mentioned, is a better reason. The strength of the arm, smooth ride of a well built joint, etc are also good reasons.
|05-02-2013 09:48 AM|
|freeskier||You'd be lucky to push the rear axle back even an inch. Your going to need some kind of aftermarket gas tank skid with more clearance to push the rear axle back. The front has enough issues with the track bar hitting the diff and I would not move it forward at all.|
|05-02-2013 09:11 AM|
what matters is what happens at full bump, with the springs removed.
center the axle AT FULL BUMP....with the necessary caster and pinion angle alignment at ride height. then mount a tire on each axle and check tire clearances at full flex & full bump.
generally that means shortening the rear lowers, extending the rear uppers, lengthening the front lowers, and shortening or keep stock length front uppers.
|05-02-2013 01:34 AM|
Thank you for your responses. I termed this as a correction rather than a stretch because I'm sure the wheelbase gain would be marginal. Perhaps an inch or two at most on either end. Would this correction have any noticeable benefit it stability or performance or would it be so trivial it would not be beneficial in any way?
Or on the flip aide would returning the wheelbase the couple inches I have lost with lift make it a more stable and better riding vehicle?
I'm not about wasting money if it isn't something people here with more experience than I deem unnecessary
|05-02-2013 01:19 AM|
To answer your question: yes.
You have to keep in mind there are implications as freeskier mentioned and you would have to check for clearance issues and adjust accordingly.
|05-02-2013 01:02 AM|
|freeskier||Think about what would happen at full bump if you lengthened your wheelbase. If you moved your rear axle back, at full bump your diff and trackbar are going to all up in the gas tank. If you move the front axle forward your messing with yours steering clearances and diff/track bar clearances. Remember axles do not travel up in down in a straight line but an arc. This is why you are losing wheelbase in the first place.|
|05-02-2013 12:51 AM|
Correcting wheelbase with adjustable control arms 4" lift
I'm currently running a 4" suspension lift, sye cv driveshaft 33's and adjustable rear upper control arms. With the lift it seems the wheelbase was marginally shortened. I'm switching to 35's and was curious if. By running adjustable control arms all the way around if I could push the wheelbase/wheel contact patch back to where it would have been from the factory and if its worth doing or not. I found a decent set used at a good price along with the 35's