|08-22-2013 02:56 PM|
|dcstein||Just realized I never updated this thread after my install. I added an AudioControl LC6i and a JL Audio xd700/5 amp. I have a 2 door 10a Rubi, both are installed in the "trunk well". My jeep was broken into a couple of weeks ago and no equipment was touched, whew. I went for stealth. I replaced the front speakers and tweeters and the soundbar speakers with JL Audio C2650 component speakers. Most people do coax in the soundbar it seems, but there's room to add a tweeter if you want to go component. All grilles were left factory. Again, going for stealth, I added an 8" sub to the factory enclosure. Installer had to add about 1/4 ring onto enclosure for good fit. He polyfilled the enclosure too. All enclosured were dynamat'd. Factory sub grille didn't fit after JL sub went it but JL sells a grill that is nice for about $15. Goes right on. Overall, very satisfied. If you're in the NY area, I used Central Sight and Sound for my install. They were great, highly recommend. Tell em Darren sent ya.|
|08-21-2013 01:43 AM|
|06-11-2013 08:58 PM|
Trunk area and put two 12" jls. Was loud as hell but box was all different shapes and was quite heavy, in the four door there's lots of room but with all the mods I wanna do and camping and such I really need to conserve space till I figure what all I wanna do. Under or behind the rear seat seemed about the only areas for a multiple sub set up unless maybe I could make a
Box similar to the one I ordered for the other side. Then there's amp mounting and that's the hard part keeping it out of the elements anywhere u put it and much like you I use my trunk space all the time
|06-11-2013 08:50 PM|
|06-11-2013 08:34 PM|
|06-11-2013 08:00 PM|
|woansleftpeg||That would make more sense. Without knowing more about the speaker, I think I'd still be inclined to go JL. And ahead of all of that, I'd build my own.|
|06-11-2013 07:56 PM|
|06-11-2013 06:52 PM|
|woansleftpeg||Internet reviews seem to be pretty good, but it looks to me like plastic which is a strange material from which to build a vented box, and it's $600. If you're spending that sort of money then I'd suggest you buy JL.|
|06-11-2013 06:43 PM|
im going this way i think ProBox Custom UTV tops and Vehicle-Specific Subwoofers and Enclosures
lot more power than that base station, probably not quite the stealth box but has a cool storage rack and a tuff looking box
|05-29-2013 12:41 PM|
|MeSteve||Actually they are powered, they are wired into the 'other' harness that has the power and amp input signal and not the main speaker level output harness. So you are correct that there are only 6 channels in that harness.|
|05-29-2013 12:30 PM|
|05-29-2013 12:05 PM|
The larger problem is the sub channel. Many factory systems pull power to the sub at higher volumes to prevent rattles and blowing the cheap equipment. Then, if you are going to do all of that, why not do the whole install correctly rather than hobbled together?
Plus, if you run the lc2 to an amp, what is the low level source for the rear channel? R not gonna amp rear speakers? Or going to use high level inputs on the amp? You will get cleaner signal thru the LCx.
|05-29-2013 11:56 AM|
|05-29-2013 09:57 AM|
|MeSteve||Probably about 22, haven't looked real close yet but that is typical|
|05-29-2013 12:48 AM|
What gauge are the stock speaker wires?
|05-29-2013 12:14 AM|
|MeSteve||There are 8 channels coming out of the amp, 2 each highs and kids for the fronts, full range for the rears and subs for the subs. The highs, mids, and culls need to be combined so an aftermarket sets of components can be used effectively up front and fulls in back.|
|05-24-2013 04:41 PM|
|dcstein||Can someone explain why you would use the LC7 or LC8 as opposed to the LC2?|
|05-23-2013 06:18 PM|
This may not be the "real way" to upgrade, but it works very well. I bought a Kicker 10" base station. It's a powered (100W) low profile sub. It's very musical and sounds great with most kinds of music. I set my factory radio to -4 on the bass and use the remote to control the base. It can't handle some of the really deep base found in about 10% of rap songs. Even without the top this 250$ system rocks
|05-22-2013 03:13 PM|
My plan is to tap into the factory amplifier's output to feed an Audio Control LCQ-1. Seems to be the only way to retain factory HU with all functionality.
Where did you mount your fuse block for the amps? I'm planning on running 0/1ga. from the battery to a fuse block, then 4ga. out to my amps (JL 300/4 & JL 250/1). Looking under the hood, it's pretty tight and not a whole lot of room to mount anything....
|05-20-2013 08:34 PM|
I know I cannot tap in before the amp and keep full functionality, same issue PacAudio has. Let me see if I can describe what I am trying to do a little better...
HU -> factory amp inputs (uses 2 harnesses)
factory amp -> speakers (uses same 2 harnesses as inputs above)
[precludes hacking off the amp output harness that would do nothing but feed speakers...]
DESIRED END RESULT
HU -> MOLEX-type t-harness similar to PacAudio -> factory amp (for both harnesses)
The inputs to the amp would be undisturbed, leaving full volume/EQ/bal/fade funtions. The amp outputs would be cut and diverted into an AudioControl device, amp, etc.
This seems to me like a simple item for a company to make, I just dont know where to look yet. I would make my own if I knew how to source the factory molex connectors. All I would need it a male and female of each of the harness that plug into the amp...
Probably about as clear as mud, but makes perfect sense in my mind
|05-20-2013 08:24 PM|
|JKone3||awesome I need to do this soon!|
|05-20-2013 08:18 PM|
Amazon.com: 3M 3MT-R-100 22-18 Gauge T-Tap: Electronics
I don't know for sure on the second part, but if you *can* tap in before the amp, do it that way.
|05-20-2013 08:01 PM|
Stereo system in mine isn't bad. Also, just cutting everything the same length is really easy to do, so why not do it? Low hanging fruit...
|05-20-2013 07:53 PM|
So I swapped out the factory soundboard speakers with Pioneers top of the line and OMG! No amp, just one for one... (Yes I will amp them eventually, in the middle of a military move at the moment).
I talked the guys over at AudioControl, really nice and knew his gear. It looks like I will be using an LC8i, fronts (highs, mids) on channels 1&2 summed, rears on 3 passed thru, and subs on 4. I have to do this to keep front/rear fade. May be obvious to some, but just sharing...
Question, for those that have done this, did you just cut into the factory harness at the amp or... I have an issue with cutting into othe factory harness a week into ownership of a $40k+ jeep. Does Metra or Scosche make an amp bypass harness?
|05-19-2013 08:47 PM|
|05-19-2013 08:30 PM|
|05-19-2013 08:29 PM|
|05-19-2013 08:25 PM|
|MeSteve||Probably referring to setting up full audiophile systems, you use speaker wire all the same length so there are no timing differences introduced by the delay for the signal to get down a short wire vs a long one.|
|05-19-2013 08:02 PM|
|05-19-2013 07:50 PM|
I got everything installed and configured this weekend. It sounds incredible - 100% worth all the time and money. I never thought a wrangler could sound this good.
Pictures and more info coming.
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