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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-05-2013 04:20 PM
O_M_Jeep Of course the c-clips have nothing to do with the axle assembly being strong or weak, they have absolutely everything to do with a broken axle walking out of the tube. I guess I should have been pain-stakingly clear and explained that I meant the axle not staying in the tube if it breaks is the main problem as far as being in a remote location on the trail and then having to make it out with a big stick or jack leg strapped to your tire so as to hold it in the tube is the main problem.
05-05-2013 03:31 PM
Jerry Bransford Yep the c-clips aren't what make a Dana 35 weak, they have nothing to do with if an axle is strong or weak. The c-clips are positioned inside & behind the splined parts of the carrier so they see little to no stress. When an axle shaft breaks, it breaks outside of the carrier. Its c-clip was not the reason.
05-05-2013 03:25 PM
4Jeepn
Quote:
Originally Posted by O_M_Jeep View Post
I have and run a -35c, I always heard the phrase about 'polishing a turd' and decided I was going to run it just to see if I could make it strong enough to stop being a 'turd'. Doing an 8.8 swap is the most common, and in Denver there is a guy on CL that will sell you, for around $900 an 8.8 that is bolt in ready, but why switch an axle that the main problem is the c-clips (the -35c) for an 8.8 that also has c-clips? I looked at the c-clip eliminator kit for the -35 and it is a very viable option.
C-clips have little to nothing to do with why the dana 35 blows. Its the small shafts period. The 8.8 is a popular swap as its cheap and has bigger shafts, tubes etc.. just beefier.. another option is of course a dana 44 or ford 9".
05-05-2013 11:47 AM
gquad41 Solman was wondering if you are still building ford 8.8 rear ends ?
05-05-2013 11:34 AM
1jeeplvr
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Jeepn View Post
I heard it was mad out of balsa wood and put together with scotch tape.
Bubble gum too lol
05-05-2013 11:34 AM
1jeeplvr
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
It's not until it reaches its limit which installing a locker and/or big tires can help it accomplish.

Few running bigger tires and/or lockers on their Dana 35 axles at http://www.billhughes.com/dana35c/ thought their D35 axles were that fragile either.
I agree with you Jerry but I bet most people who keep a tire to a 33 wont have a issue.I really feel its having some reserve on the skinny pedal that will keep the 35 alive.I did decide on the super 35 kit with my e locker install.I hate the thought of being stranded in the woods 3 hrs from home.4.5 hrs from home last month at Rausch Creek.Good thing I keep a spare tie rod bar with me.Yes I broke my XJ setup,actually only the sleeve.I knew something was wrong when I couldent steer it lol.Sorry to rant.
05-05-2013 11:17 AM
4Jeepn
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1jeeplvr View Post
A D35 is not made of glass like many think.
I heard it was mad out of balsa wood and put together with scotch tape.
05-05-2013 10:59 AM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1jeeplvr View Post
A D35 is not made of glass like many think.
It's not until it reaches its limit which installing a locker and/or big tires can help it accomplish.

Few running bigger tires and/or lockers on their Dana 35 axles at http://www.billhughes.com/dana35c/ thought their D35 axles were that fragile either.
05-05-2013 03:15 AM
jeepwayoflife
Quote:
Originally Posted by R8DRIZD View Post

I will definitely test that theory!
I've been trying to break my Dana 35 now that I have a dana 44 ready in the garage with no luck. More wheel hop it is!
05-04-2013 09:46 PM
R8DRIZD
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1jeeplvr View Post
A D35 is not made of glass like many think.
I will definitely test that theory!
05-04-2013 09:33 PM
1jeeplvr A D35 is not made of glass like many think.
05-04-2013 07:03 AM
O_M_Jeep I have and run a -35c, I always heard the phrase about 'polishing a turd' and decided I was going to run it just to see if I could make it strong enough to stop being a 'turd'. Doing an 8.8 swap is the most common, and in Denver there is a guy on CL that will sell you, for around $900 an 8.8 that is bolt in ready, but why switch an axle that the main problem is the c-clips (the -35c) for an 8.8 that also has c-clips? I looked at the c-clip eliminator kit for the -35 and it is a very viable option.

I went with alloy shafts (27 spline, easy to find a spare if one breaks, a stock shaft will work), I also put on the Superior truss, True-Trac, and 4.88's to help lower the strain turning my 33's. I'm also not throttle heavy but I do a lot of hard wheeling and so far it's held up very well. There are a lot of great options, and no matter what anyone tries to tell you, keeping and building up the -35c is certainly one of them.

Ford 8.8 supplier in Denver

Fully polished -35c
05-04-2013 06:20 AM
98 tj sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by R8DRIZD View Post
What about an 07' JK 2dr? I have only seen for YJ,TJ's....I have dana 35 with 4.10 gear
Thought all jks came with a 44 rearend
05-04-2013 01:45 AM
R8DRIZD What about an 07' JK 2dr? I have only seen for YJ,TJ's....I have dana 35 with 4.10 gear
01-21-2013 09:58 PM
DevilDogDoc I run 33's and when they wear out hope to go to 35's. As far as the axles go I already had Superior Discoveries up front so just the rear shafts were changed. Still run the C-clips in back. So yeah, gears, lockers, rear 30 spline shafts and gear setup.
01-21-2013 09:58 PM
mudmagnet63 I just got my beast back tonight. I went with the super 35 and yukon locker rear and the super 30 yukon locker in front with 4.56 gears. I had 3.07 stock, the differance was amazing. I have not wheeled it yet but I did research and asked many questions from the guru's on here. The shop that did my work welded the tubes to prevent twist.

I am satisfied that I can take my ride anywhere and not worry about my set up. Everything on a jeep has options to make it better so the super 35 was my choice for price and reliability.
I'm running 33" now with 4.0

http://sams4x4store.com/SuperiorDana35AxleKit.htm


Just my .02

Mud
01-21-2013 09:52 PM
98 tj sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilDogDoc View Post
Factory 30/35. I had a friend refer me to his gear guy for the install but I pulled the axles and put them back under the Jeep.
U running 33s or 35s, and so u got reagears f/r, lockers f/r and chromoly axles f/r, for 2200 that's pretty good, is that still with the c clips
01-21-2013 09:40 PM
DevilDogDoc Factory 30/35. I had a friend refer me to his gear guy for the install but I pulled the axles and put them back under the Jeep.
01-21-2013 09:34 PM
98 tj sport
Quote:
Originally Posted by DevilDogDoc View Post
It seems to be an east coast west coast thing. Over there the pos fords rust out and go to the junkyard but here they are far scarcer. Best quote I got from ecgs was 2300 shipped. I got 4:88's F/R along with Ziplockers F/R, 30 spline Ten Factory chromo axles and master install kits for $2200. For me it was a no-brainer especially considering how low the 8.8 hangs when on 33's.
What kinda axles were those and were from. And yes ecgs is kinda expensive in my opinion 2 thats y I plan on getting one out of a junkyard and doing it all myself
01-21-2013 09:28 PM
DevilDogDoc It seems to be an east coast west coast thing. Over there the pos fords rust out and go to the junkyard but here they are far scarcer. Best quote I got from ecgs was 2300 shipped. I got 4:88's F/R along with Ziplockers F/R, 30 spline Ten Factory chromo axles and master install kits for $2200. For me it was a no-brainer especially considering how low the 8.8 hangs when on 33's.
01-21-2013 07:34 PM
Natas667 I've had my jeep with 456 gears. Open. Dana 30 35 combo on 33s for four years . And literally put this thing through hell trying to give myself a excuse to upgrade the axles. I just dont get it when I hear people are blowing these axles up so easily. Even been debating on upgrading to the 35s I want to see if that will put them over the edge. If that finally does it I will have my excuse to upgrade. But ultimately I say if it ain't broke don't fix the damn thing.
01-21-2013 06:39 PM
Travs 94 zj Do u still rebuild 8.8 if yes can I get a quote
11-23-2011 01:35 PM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackedOutYJ View Post
Here's a article from JP magazine on it. Hope this helps you.


You've heard us harp on the subject for years without once changing our tune; running an automatic locker in therear of a short-wheelbase Jeep can make for a miserable on-road driving experience. An automatic locker functions very simply. It's locked when power is applied to the axles and unlocked when no power is applied. That means every time you get on and off the gas, the locker locks and unlocks. The handling drawbacks manifest themselves when this happens in the middle of a turn, changing lanes, or negotiating curvy sections of road. On some Jeeps with supple suspensions, especially link-type suspensions, the locker actuation can cause the Jeep to change lanes or shoot violently to one side or the other. It's something the average enthusiast will become accustomed to rather quickly, but for us the acid test is always, "would I toss the keys to a non-enthusiast, my wife, or a valet?"

We wanted to see if we could take steps to improve these handling drawbacks. Granted, our stock-height, leaf-sprung '89 Wrangler test vehicle is a best case scenario for the auto locker, while the worst-case would be a TJ with a manual transmission, tall short-arm suspension, and larger tires.

Since we can't in good conscience recommend installing a locker of any type in a stock Dana 35 rear axle, we called Superior Axle & Gear for its Super 35 kit. This kit includes an Eaton Detroit Locker, Superior's superb 30-spline, 1.31-inch alloy axleshafts (stock Dana 35 is 27-spline, 1.16-inch), and a full installation kit. This would ensure we don't suffer any breakage during our testing. So after all our efforts are we satisfied? Nope. Although it helped a little, we still wouldn't toss the keys to a novice. It's still better to run a selectable locker or spool if you're concerned with street handling.
I had read that before and my personal experience with the same rear Detrot Locker is FAR different from theirs. With over 120K miles in a TJ with a rear Detroit Locker, I can only say it's a very well behaved locker that only takes a few days to learn to drive it to mostly eliminate its minor quirks. Within those few days, I learned without even realizing it how to drive it so it was mostly totally unnoticeable. Sure every few days it might do a little sideways lurch that was totally minor and a non-issue so I'm thinking that Jp magazine yahoo who wrote that drive it for a mile or two and came back crying that he could "feel it".

A Detroit Locker is, for 99% of any guy, a non-issue for any driving condition except for icy or snow-covered streets. I now have a Rubicon with air lockers but as I've said before, I still miss the Detroit Locker I had in the rear of my previous TJ that was stolen last year.

And actually, I think that Jp writer might have been filled with so much fear about the Detroit Locker from its old repuation that he never gave it a decent chance. Early Detroit Lockers could be a handful on the street but they redesigned it entirely 16-17 years ago which made it much better behaved on the street. They called the new version the Detroit Softlocker in an attempt to distance it from the old Detroit Locker. Today, the Detroit Locker and Detroit Softlocker are one and the same locker... which is, by far, the best behaved automatic locker of any of them.
11-23-2011 01:16 PM
pickncrew subscribed... leaning towards an 8.8
11-23-2011 08:10 AM
erickpl The auto locker unload is specifically why I went with an ARB when I upgraded my D35 to Yukon shafts and 4.88's. I have a lockright in the D30 up front, but would LOVE an ARB up front.

For my wheeling style, the upgraded D35 works great. I have a 2.5L and have always been light on the gas pedal. I don't want to tear up my axle and I don't want to rut out the trail just to make it over an obstacle. I'll try it 3 times, and if I don't make it, I either go around or pull cable to get over.

A lot of making the decision to upgrade will depend on your wheeling style and your engine type. With my light gas foot (at least in the Jeep lol) and the 2.5L engine, I felt comfortable with the upgrade option. If my solution was always to gas through a problem and I had the 4.0L, my logic path would probably be different.
11-23-2011 06:58 AM
BlackedOutYJ Here's a article from JP magazine on it. Hope this helps you.


You've heard us harp on the subject for years without once changing our tune; running an automatic locker in therear of a short-wheelbase Jeep can make for a miserable on-road driving experience. An automatic locker functions very simply. It's locked when power is applied to the axles and unlocked when no power is applied. That means every time you get on and off the gas, the locker locks and unlocks. The handling drawbacks manifest themselves when this happens in the middle of a turn, changing lanes, or negotiating curvy sections of road. On some Jeeps with supple suspensions, especially link-type suspensions, the locker actuation can cause the Jeep to change lanes or shoot violently to one side or the other. It's something the average enthusiast will become accustomed to rather quickly, but for us the acid test is always, "would I toss the keys to a non-enthusiast, my wife, or a valet?"

We wanted to see if we could take steps to improve these handling drawbacks. Granted, our stock-height, leaf-sprung '89 Wrangler test vehicle is a best case scenario for the auto locker, while the worst-case would be a TJ with a manual transmission, tall short-arm suspension, and larger tires.

Since we can't in good conscience recommend installing a locker of any type in a stock Dana 35 rear axle, we called Superior Axle & Gear for its Super 35 kit. This kit includes an Eaton Detroit Locker, Superior's superb 30-spline, 1.31-inch alloy axleshafts (stock Dana 35 is 27-spline, 1.16-inch), and a full installation kit. This would ensure we don't suffer any breakage during our testing. So after all our efforts are we satisfied? Nope. Although it helped a little, we still wouldn't toss the keys to a novice. It's still better to run a selectable locker or spool if you're concerned with street handling.
11-23-2011 06:56 AM
ou812
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471 View Post
I have read and posted in that thread. The problem experienced is the same with all lockers. They will unload. It will make a load pop when you drive. It does not make it harder to shift. a True Trac is NOT a locker.
Ihave pm'ed that guy
He has a detroit auto locker that fully locks,not a tru trac
And he has difficulty shifting the manual transmission as the locker locks and unlocks
No issues before the super 35 kit
11-23-2011 06:44 AM
BlackedOutYJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by twisted_TJI
Haha...lmao
Run the S35 and learn how to drive unless of course you have your own fab shop, lots of tools, tons of time, knowledge of the swap and maybe a friend at the junkyard.
But then if you had all that you probably wouldn't be asking on WF
Haha.. Lmao
Ok put a super 35 and learn how to drive? I hope your saying that because you know how dangerous they are on a dd due to being squirrelly having to get off the pedal in almost every corner you go into, because it will kick your jeep all over the road. And as far as knowing people, you don't have to know anybody to find a good deal, just takes time. The "Tons of time" part took me a few days rebuilding the whole damn thing from bearings, seals, carrier, ring gear ect. Tools if you got a welder your good because if you can afford a welder I'd imagine you got a grinder and some cut off wheels.
11-23-2011 12:23 AM
twisted_TJI
Quote:
Originally Posted by nick50471
if your not running Rockwells you don't have enough axle.
Haha...lmao
Run the S35 and learn how to drive unless of course you have your own fab shop, lots of tools, tons of time, knowledge of the swap and maybe a friend at the junkyard.
But then if you had all that you probably wouldn't be asking on WF
11-22-2011 10:38 PM
nick50471
Quote:
Originally Posted by ou812 View Post
over in this thread a guy talks about shift problems after the detroint install with a manual
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/supe...ds-116191.html
now I havent read anything else but I think im going to go with a selectable anyway.
I have read and posted in that thread. The problem experienced is the same with all lockers. They will unload. It will make a load pop when you drive. It does not make it harder to shift. a True Trac is NOT a locker.
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