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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-02-2014 09:28 PM
Big Sarge Well I have not been on here for a while but I finally got around to swapping my fuel pump this evening. All went well and did the 19 gallon mod and put in the 19 gallon unit.

Much to my surprise when I dropped the tank, at one point in my Jeeps life it must have had nice nesting on top of the tank. They built their best right on top of the FPR which probably led to the pump over heating. I still swapped it and we will see in a few weeks when I take a long trip if it is fixed for good. The filter/screen was also pretty dirty so I put a new one on it. Here is a pic of the best that was on it. No wires had been chewed though.
04-23-2014 08:17 PM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by HALFTRACK99 View Post
If this was my Jeep, and taking heat sink into account. I would replace the coil and the distributor pickup. Heat soaking into these parts can open windings and solder joints. let them cool for a while and viola!! evrything is fine for awhile. Anything over 50K should be suspect. I am not a fan of used parts, but they are good for test purposes somethimes.
that was changed with brand new parts with no change. I have a new fuel pump just have been too busy to swap it out. After driving it with a computer hooked to it and monitoring O2 sensor voltages and fuel trim levels I have came to the conclusion that at the magic hour mark +/- 10 minutes is where voltages drop and trim spikes. This leads me to believe fuel starvation.
04-23-2014 11:12 AM
HALFTRACK99 If this was my Jeep, and taking heat sink into account. I would replace the coil and the distributor pickup. Heat soaking into these parts can open windings and solder joints. let them cool for a while and viola!! evrything is fine for awhile. Anything over 50K should be suspect. I am not a fan of used parts, but they are good for test purposes somethimes.
01-31-2014 04:57 PM
Big Sarge And the saga continues/starts again.
09-27-2013 01:08 PM
Notoriously_rob
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Sarge View Post
Where are you located in VA?
Va beach
09-22-2013 06:15 PM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Notoriously_rob View Post
This is what I'm talking about
Where are you located in VA?
09-21-2013 07:59 AM
Notoriously_rob This is what I'm talking about
09-21-2013 07:57 AM
Notoriously_rob On the fuel rail there is a valve...not sure what its called or even if it can be taken off...
09-21-2013 07:19 AM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Notoriously_rob View Post
Wonderng if this is my issue too...-1999 4.0 here though
Are you talking about for the idle bob issue? Not sure if the 4.0 even had that part?!?
09-21-2013 05:14 AM
Notoriously_rob Wonderng if this is my issue too...-1999 4.0 here though
09-21-2013 05:06 AM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by doclouie View Post
Do you mean the pressure regulator?
That's what he called it but the manual calls it a damper. It's the shiny piece. Lol
09-21-2013 05:06 AM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Caiden07 View Post
Part # 56027023AB Magnetic Pickup/Distributor Ignition Pickup.
Little late to the party but thanks. Lol
09-21-2013 12:11 AM
Caiden07
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Sarge View Post
Mine is a 98 withe the 2.5 4 cylinder and as far as I know they do not have a cam position sensor.
Part # 56027023AB Magnetic Pickup/Distributor Ignition Pickup.
09-20-2013 11:32 PM
doclouie
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Sarge View Post
Well for any that helped and were following it seems that I have finally got it fixed. YAY. Had to replace the fuel damper on the front of the fuel rail to cure a different issue, just drove 4 hours non stop with no issues.
Do you mean the pressure regulator?
09-20-2013 05:24 PM
Big Sarge Well for any that helped and were following it seems that I have finally got it fixed. YAY. Had to replace the fuel damper on the front of the fuel rail to cure a different issue, just drove 4 hours non stop with no issues.
06-30-2013 03:00 PM
Evpjr It sounds similar to a problem I am having. My Jeep will start fine, idle for about four minutes and die, but will restart. While on the road it will run smooth and for no reason loose all power to everything, for a split second, killing the engine, the gauges,and radio except for lights. And it has been taken to an automotive electrical engineer, and Chrysler Jeep, and neither could find the problem
06-30-2013 08:48 AM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by NC Bear View Post
maybe I missed it, but have you replaced your cat? I had a truck do the exact same thing you are describing and it turned out to be the cat.
Yeah I had to replace it because the whole inside of it melted together and broke loose. Went ahead and replaced the entire exhaust system. I think I'm going to drop my tank and look inside there and maybe replace the pump. Want to cut the vent hose anyways to get the extra fuel capacity.
06-30-2013 06:06 AM
NC Bear maybe I missed it, but have you replaced your cat? I had a truck do the exact same thing you are describing and it turned out to be the cat.
06-30-2013 02:18 AM
Full Spool Actron CP7838 Professional Fuel Pressure Tester : Amazon.com : Automotive
06-29-2013 05:58 PM
Full Spool
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Sarge View Post
Dead on 49 psi.
Sure it has 49 psi when its not flowing, but what is it when those injectors are trying to keep the motor at 3,000 rmp under load

Case in point
I was trying to use my diegrinder the other night, with no flow the regulator was showing 80psi.
When I would crank the diegrinde up the pressure would drop to 40 psi and the tool was worthless. I thought the regulator was taking a crap, so I replaced it and the water seperator. Turned out it was a pre screen at the compressor was clogging. Wasted $60.....
06-29-2013 05:40 PM
OldJeepCJ5 You can have full pressure and still not have enough flow at speed. If you have a gauge that you can remote, hook it up and get someone to watch it as you go down the road under load.
06-29-2013 05:39 PM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjdude08 View Post

It should be under the cap. It's a black plate with little metal sensor. Some call it cam some call it plate sensor. I'd put a scanner on it first. It's $66 at napa. So wouldn't want to waste money if its not.
I will check into it but about 99% positive that the 4 cinders don't have one. I have put a scanner on it numerous times and there are no stored codes what so ever. Only twice I had a code for the upstream o2 sensor which has now been changed out.
06-29-2013 05:36 PM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Full Spool View Post
Fuel pressure
Dead on 49 psi.
06-29-2013 05:25 PM
Full Spool Fuel pressure
06-29-2013 05:24 PM
OldJeepCJ5 Try this:
Take it out and let it warm up. After its warmed, drop a gear and start winding it up. Kinda creep up on 3K rpm.
If it just dies, let it coast and see if it refires.

But, I'm hoping that as you approach 3K, it will start sputtering. If so, you have a fuel flow problem.

For a real off the wall suggestion, pop the hood, engine off, take the air breather off, and watch the linkage as someone goes from idle to full throttle slowly.

See if the linkage rubs or brushes against any wires.
06-29-2013 04:45 PM
Tjdude08 Distributor cap that is. Sorry
06-29-2013 04:44 PM
Tjdude08
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Sarge View Post

Mine is a 98 withe the 2.5 4 cylinder and as far as I know they do not have a cam position sensor.
It should be under the cap. It's a black plate with little metal sensor. Some call it cam some call it plate sensor. I'd put a scanner on it first. It's $66 at napa. So wouldn't want to waste money if its not.
06-29-2013 04:17 PM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by flflash View Post

Sorry I didn't do a very good job of explaining. You said " I push in the clutch and turn the ignition off then back on, let the clutch out and it starts back up, every time, and goes on about it's way until it does it again."
After it's died before you touch the key, Is the CEL on or off? It should be on anytime the ECM is powered up and the engine is not running, if it's not on the ECM is either not powered up or has an internal fault.
I've seen many of the TJ's have contact problems inside the electrical part of the ignition switch causing various electrical problems. Sometimes just moving the key will temporarily remake the connection inside the switch till it gets hot again.
Just something to look at I know your getting frustrated I hope you find the issue soon.
This has been the case in the past. However yesterday it just lost engine power, I pushed in the clutch let the clutch out and it was good to go again. Did not have to touch the ignition at all yesterday. Not sure if you saw the later post about it cutting out at anything over 3000 rpms??
06-29-2013 03:05 PM
flflash
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Sarge View Post
Well yesterday when the engine would cut out a few times I did not have to turn the ignition off. Just simply pushed in the clutch and it was good to go again. CEL does come on when I first turn they key on but does not illuminate when it starts having these issues.
Sorry I didn't do a very good job of explaining. You said " I push in the clutch and turn the ignition off then back on, let the clutch out and it starts back up, every time, and goes on about it's way until it does it again."
After it's died before you touch the key, Is the CEL on or off? It should be on anytime the ECM is powered up and the engine is not running, if it's not on the ECM is either not powered up or has an internal fault.
I've seen many of the TJ's have contact problems inside the electrical part of the ignition switch causing various electrical problems. Sometimes just moving the key will temporarily remake the connection inside the switch till it gets hot again.
Just something to look at I know your getting frustrated I hope you find the issue soon.
06-29-2013 03:00 PM
Big Sarge
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tjdude08 View Post
You said one time when it started it wouldn't rev or acted like it wasn't getting any gas. When you changed your distributor cap and rotor did you change your cam position sensor? Mine quit on me for 2 weeks I tried changin everything. Took out the cam sensor cleaned it off and it ran but acted like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced it and she's running fine.
Mine is a 98 withe the 2.5 4 cylinder and as far as I know they do not have a cam position sensor.
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