|09-27-2013 02:08 PM|
|09-22-2013 07:15 PM|
|09-21-2013 08:59 AM|
|Notoriously_rob||This is what I'm talking about|
|09-21-2013 08:57 AM|
|Notoriously_rob||On the fuel rail there is a valve...not sure what its called or even if it can be taken off...|
|09-21-2013 08:19 AM|
|09-21-2013 06:14 AM|
|Notoriously_rob||Wonderng if this is my issue too...-1999 4.0 here though|
|09-21-2013 06:06 AM|
|09-21-2013 06:06 AM|
|09-21-2013 01:11 AM|
|09-21-2013 12:32 AM|
|09-20-2013 06:24 PM|
|Big Sarge||Well for any that helped and were following it seems that I have finally got it fixed. YAY. Had to replace the fuel damper on the front of the fuel rail to cure a different issue, just drove 4 hours non stop with no issues.|
|06-30-2013 04:00 PM|
|Evpjr||It sounds similar to a problem I am having. My Jeep will start fine, idle for about four minutes and die, but will restart. While on the road it will run smooth and for no reason loose all power to everything, for a split second, killing the engine, the gauges,and radio except for lights. And it has been taken to an automotive electrical engineer, and Chrysler Jeep, and neither could find the problem|
|06-30-2013 09:48 AM|
|06-30-2013 07:06 AM|
|NC Bear||maybe I missed it, but have you replaced your cat? I had a truck do the exact same thing you are describing and it turned out to be the cat.|
|06-30-2013 03:18 AM|
|Full Spool||Actron CP7838 Professional Fuel Pressure Tester : Amazon.com : Automotive|
|06-29-2013 06:58 PM|
Case in point
I was trying to use my diegrinder the other night, with no flow the regulator was showing 80psi.
When I would crank the diegrinde up the pressure would drop to 40 psi and the tool was worthless. I thought the regulator was taking a crap, so I replaced it and the water seperator. Turned out it was a pre screen at the compressor was clogging. Wasted $60.....
|06-29-2013 06:40 PM|
|OldJeepCJ5||You can have full pressure and still not have enough flow at speed. If you have a gauge that you can remote, hook it up and get someone to watch it as you go down the road under load.|
|06-29-2013 06:39 PM|
|06-29-2013 06:36 PM|
|06-29-2013 06:25 PM|
|Full Spool||Fuel pressure|
|06-29-2013 06:24 PM|
Take it out and let it warm up. After its warmed, drop a gear and start winding it up. Kinda creep up on 3K rpm.
If it just dies, let it coast and see if it refires.
But, I'm hoping that as you approach 3K, it will start sputtering. If so, you have a fuel flow problem.
For a real off the wall suggestion, pop the hood, engine off, take the air breather off, and watch the linkage as someone goes from idle to full throttle slowly.
See if the linkage rubs or brushes against any wires.
|06-29-2013 05:45 PM|
|Tjdude08||Distributor cap that is. Sorry|
|06-29-2013 05:44 PM|
|06-29-2013 05:17 PM|
|06-29-2013 04:05 PM|
After it's died before you touch the key, Is the CEL on or off? It should be on anytime the ECM is powered up and the engine is not running, if it's not on the ECM is either not powered up or has an internal fault.
I've seen many of the TJ's have contact problems inside the electrical part of the ignition switch causing various electrical problems. Sometimes just moving the key will temporarily remake the connection inside the switch till it gets hot again.
Just something to look at I know your getting frustrated I hope you find the issue soon.
|06-29-2013 04:00 PM|
|06-29-2013 03:53 PM|
|Tjdude08||You said one time when it started it wouldn't rev or acted like it wasn't getting any gas. When you changed your distributor cap and rotor did you change your cam position sensor? Mine quit on me for 2 weeks I tried changin everything. Took out the cam sensor cleaned it off and it ran but acted like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced it and she's running fine.|
|06-29-2013 09:19 AM|
Years ago I had the exact same symptoms on an RX-7. Was 300 miles from home when it happened but luckily was only a couple of blocks from the Mazda dealership. Made it into the dealership, told the service manager what was happening and he fixed it in 10 minutes. Turned out it was the fuel filter. The logic, as I remember him explaining it at the time, was that older cars have more residual "crap" in the tank and the lines, and on long drives the "crap" has more time to be sucked up into the orifices of the filter and eventually clog it up. When it cuts off the "crap" is released and falls back out of the orifices and you can crank the car and drive again. Made sense to me at the time and the fix was only $25 for installation of the new filter. Never had another problem after that.
Not sure if/how this might apply on a jeep but thought I would throw it out there since nothing else seems to be working for you.
|06-29-2013 08:31 AM|
|06-29-2013 08:14 AM|
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