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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-18-2014 08:33 PM
konadog this is good information.
04-12-2014 08:13 AM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
I have another question..

How much can the springs be compressed?

A friend hast 1.5" BS extensions in the rear and 2" springs with 1.5" spacers.
The spring would be fully compressed before the lower spring perch hits the jounce.
depends on the springs: length, coil diameter, number of turns, etc.

but yes, you are correct in that you can run into a circumstance where the spring is fully compressed before the BS even does its job. That's called coil bind and it's bad...hence I don't like big spacers + springs.

Unfortunately its kind of hard to measure coil bind yourself because you need a press to fully compress the spring in order to measure it. Its easiest to relying on the manufacturer of the spring for this specification.
04-12-2014 06:45 AM
nicolas-eric I have another question..

How much can the springs be compressed?

A friend hast 1.5" BS extensions in the rear and 2" springs with 1.5" spacers.
The spring would be fully compressed before the lower spring perch hits the jounce.
04-11-2014 01:29 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by _Jeff_ View Post
Rock stars both of you. Thanks so much.

I am just going to ask this as a hypothetical, but if the OME needs, at minimum 1.25" of BSE in the rear, does moving up to 2" create a negative issue? I know someone mentioned earlier that its better to have too much as opposed not enough, but just wondering if too much becomes a problem.
the negative effect is you lose 0.75" uptravel.

the primary reason you install a lift is to gain suspension travel. Why would you want to install a 2" lift, then install 2" BSE's to put you right back to stock travel?

but keep in mind, that's only considering shocks. you've still got to investigate other interferences issues, like tire size and other suspension components.
04-11-2014 12:39 PM
_Jeff_ Rock stars both of you. Thanks so much.

I am just going to ask this as a hypothetical, but if the OME needs, at minimum 1.25" of BSE in the rear, does moving up to 2" create a negative issue? I know someone mentioned earlier that its better to have too much as opposed not enough, but just wondering if too much becomes a problem.
04-11-2014 10:01 AM
nicolas-eric Thanks!
04-11-2014 09:49 AM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
N66: 13.2" to 22.4"
N67: 13.3"to 22.1"

In the front you donīt need BS extensions.
In the rear you need 1.25" BS extension.

The OME 2.5" lift kits come with 0.8" rear and no front BS extensions.
fixed it for you.

the OME kit includes 20mm (0.8") rear BS extensions...not quite enough when you push things to full bump. not only do you need 1.25" to keep the shocks from bottoming out, but you also need the 1.25" to keep the rear track bar relocation bracket from hitting the underside of the tub.
04-11-2014 09:34 AM
nicolas-eric N66: 13.2" to 22.4"
N67: 13.3"to 22.1"

In the front you donīt need BS extensions.
In the rear you need 1" BS extension.

The OME 2.5" lift kits come with 1" rear and no front BS extensions.
04-11-2014 08:08 AM
_Jeff_ It appears this thread has gone the way of the snakes in Ireland and disappeared.

UnlimitedLJ04, thank you for the silly amount of knowledge you have shared, this has been slightly easier to understand than Mud's giant thread on the other site. That one just gives me a headache.
Also does anyone have the measurements for OME 2.5" lift shocks, N66 & N67? I have looked and either missed it or something.
Thanks.

Jeff
03-17-2014 06:19 PM
PO1CJack nothin wrong with being a jeep nerd lol
03-17-2014 02:55 PM
hosejockey61 ^^^^^ Jeep Nerd

03-17-2014 12:47 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by OhSixTJ View Post
Is the tap size mentioned earlier the same size as the bolts that hold the rear jounce cups on?

Or are they a different size?
different.

rear bumpstops are held to the frame by M10x1.5. front spring perch can be tapped with 1/2-13
03-17-2014 12:41 PM
OhSixTJ Is the tap size mentioned earlier the same size as the bolts that hold the rear jounce cups on?

Or are they a different size?
03-16-2014 10:09 AM
OhSixTJ Thanks! Saved me $20!
03-16-2014 09:36 AM
jjvw 2x3" pucks
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

3x3" pucks
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
03-16-2014 08:38 AM
OhSixTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
Exactly. I'm sure this has been stated many times already in this thread. "Big Blocks" are 3" OD, and work for the front - bolted down to the spring perch. "Mini Blocks" are 2" OD, and work for the rear upper side - bolted to the frame side.
I appreciate the info.

And if I'm splitting the rear between upper and lower spots, I assume "big blocks" for the lower pad?
03-16-2014 07:06 AM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by hosejockey61 View Post
Just buy performance accessories body lift pucks at the right size or buy larger and cut them down with a chop saw. I just bought a few of the 2 and 3 inch pucks and used the 2" on the front and cut the 3" down to whatever it was that I needed.

This is WAYYY cheaper than buying commercial bump stops.
Exactly. I'm sure this has been stated many times already in this thread.

"Big Blocks" are 3" OD, and work for the front - bolted down to the spring perch.
"Mini Blocks" are 2" OD, and work for the rear upper side - bolted to the frame side.
03-16-2014 01:13 AM
OhSixTJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by hosejockey61 View Post
Just buy performance accessories body lift pucks at the right size or buy larger and cut them down with a chop saw. I just bought a few of the 2 and 3 inch pucks and used the 2" on the front and cut the 3" down to whatever it was that I needed. This is WAYYY cheaper than buying commercial bump stops.
Cool, I'll look into them. Thanks.
03-15-2014 10:38 PM
hosejockey61
Quote:
Originally Posted by OhSixTJ View Post
Last dumb question from me: where do I get these bump stops? Does anyone have a specific favorite or will any of the ones I find in a google search work just fine?
Just buy performance accessories body lift pucks at the right size or buy larger and cut them down with a chop saw. I just bought a few of the 2 and 3 inch pucks and used the 2" on the front and cut the 3" down to whatever it was that I needed.

This is WAYYY cheaper than buying commercial bump stops.
03-15-2014 10:31 PM
OhSixTJ Last dumb question from me: where do I get these bump stops? Does anyone have a specific favorite or will any of the ones I find in a google search work just fine?
03-14-2014 07:55 AM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
I want a good on road ride. Is 5" uptravel up to the cup enough for that?
once again, this is subjective. depends what you're looking to do.

but so you stop asking the same stuff, i'll just take a wild guess and say yes it'll be fine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
With bodylift pucks I canīt use countersunk bolts. With normal bolts the jounce would rub at the bolt head. That would damage the jounce over the time IMO.
Or is that wrong?
it's not really a problem that i've seen. but if you're that worried, countersink it yourself, or use button head bolts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
Is the spring perch massive or only thin sheet metal?
it's not massive, but it's thick enough to tap and grab a few threads of a 1/2-13 UNC.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
Will something like a 3/8" (about 10 mm) bolt be enough?
3" OB body lift pucks will be 1/2" ID. you need to be able to grab the shoulders of the pucks to bolt them on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
How long should these bolts be?
BS length + ?" ?
long enough to hold the puck down. use a tape measure.
03-14-2014 05:38 AM
nicolas-eric
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
again...its kinda subjective....depends what travel ratio you're looking for.
I want a good on road ride. Is 5" uptravel up to the cup enough for that?
I do only slow offroading without any fast tracks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
just use body lift pucks....
With bodylift pucks I canīt use countersunk bolts. With normal bolts the jounce would rub at the bolt head. That would damage the jounce over the time IMO.
Or is that wrong?


BTW I just ordered the RS9000XL shocks.
In 1-2 weeks they will be here.
When I install them Iīll also install the aditional BS extensions on the spring perch. For that I have to remove the springs and can measure the needed BS length like you said in this thread.

Is the spring perch massive or only thin sheet metal?
Will something like a 3/8" (about 10 mm) bolt be enough?
How long should these bolts be?
BS length + ?" ?

Thanks for all your answers, that makes these things way easier...
03-13-2014 04:06 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
That means +5" uptravel to the cup (not the jounce) will be ok?
again...its kinda subjective....depends what travel ratio you're looking for.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
Iīm already thinking about cutting the rear spring perches and welding them back on in the right position. But that would be a problem with our German TUV (Association for Technical Inspection). They donīt like welding on suspension parts.
Itīs the same problem with new shock mounts.
if you do it well, they won't even notice you did anything, unless they are experts in TJs. and you build plenty of justification around how it's safer in the correct position vs the poor position with a lift.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
Is it a good way to extend the BS by bolting hockey pucks to the spring perch?
just use body lift pucks....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Digger84 View Post
If I was going to turn a couple custom length bump stop extensions out on the lathe which is better scrap stock to use 2 inch aluminum rod or 2" derlin rod

Would either last as well
both will be just fine for the rear (2"). for the front you want 3" OD. since you have a lathe and bar stock, I'd say push to full bump and measure exactly what you need. round up to the nearest 0.3-0.5" and make custom lengths.
03-13-2014 03:45 PM
Digger84 If I was going to turn a couple custom length bump stop extensions out on the lathe which is better scrap stock to use 2 inch aluminum rod or 2" derlin rod

Would either last as well
03-13-2014 02:57 PM
nicolas-eric Ok thanks!

That means +5" uptravel to the cup (not the jounce) will be ok?
Then I would be fine with the RS9000 shocks.

Iīm already thinking about cutting the rear spring perches and welding them back on in the right position. But that would be a problem with our German TUV (Association for Technical Inspection). They donīt like welding on suspension parts.
Itīs the same problem with new shock mounts.

Is it a good way to extend the BS by bolting hockey pucks to the spring perch?
03-13-2014 02:29 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
The uptravel to the jounce would be 3-3.5" in the front and the rear.
Is that enough?
once again, you need to ignore the jounce. it will fully compress into the cup!!!!!

I've got ~5" up front and rear....on 2.5" of lift. You should have no problem getting 5-6" up on 5" of lift. Be prepared to cut/move/modify shock mounts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
BTW I thought about it.
I have rear lower shock relocation brackets and the rear axle is rotated very much (SYE with my 5-5.5" lift and a 3.5-4" selfmade tummy tuck.
Is that why itīs that different in my rear from what you wrote in your post?
yes, shock relocators have a big effect...

IMHO, at your height you're well into territory that needs spring perch relocation and major rework of the shock mounts.
03-13-2014 01:36 PM
nicolas-eric Perhaps there is a difference during the years? And I have a EU export TJ...

The axle position is ok IMO. In full flex the jounce (thanks for giving me the right word!) is exactly in the center of the spring perch, looking at it from the side.
The jounce contacts the spring perch in full flex and is a bit compressed. But thereīs still some room to the cup while the shocks are fully compressed.

With the RS9000 shocks I want I would need about 3.5-4" BS extensions in the front and about 4-4.5" in the rear.

The uptravel to the jounce would be 3-3.5" in the front and the rear.
Is that enough?

BTW I thought about it.
I have rear lower shock relocation brackets and the rear axle is rotated very much (SYE with my 5-5.5" lift and a 3.5-4" selfmade tummy tuck.
Is that why itīs that different in my rear from what you wrote in your post?
03-13-2014 01:01 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by nicolas-eric View Post
@UnlimitedLJ04:

Are you sure the measurements you posted at the beginning f this thread are right?
Iīve read your posts and thought 2" BS extensions for the rear OME LT shocks would be right.

BTW: Is the stock uptravel of 4" measured up to the rubber BS or to the metal thing with the rubber inside?
Like I've said throughout this entire thread, the measurements are approximate. They're a place to start. You need to push your axle to full bump and determine what the actual measurements are on your rig.

And as has been reinforced several times in this thread, the jounce will fully compress into the cup. All measurements ignore the jounce, because it does not count when talking about bumpstop extensions.

The OME LT 15.5" compressed length shocks should fit with 2" front bumpstop extensions an the OME LT 14.4" compressed length shocks should fit with 2.5" bumpstop extensions, but again, as BTroll found out, this all depends heavily on your axle position.

You can really screw yourself over with bad axle position...not just with poor alignment, caster, etc, but also with poor travel characteristics and major interference issues.

That's why you need to do the work yourself and determine what YOUR requirements are on YOUR rig.
03-13-2014 12:42 PM
nicolas-eric @UnlimitedLJ04:

Are you sure the measurements you posted at the beginning f this thread are right?
Iīve read your posts and thought 2" BS extensions for the rear OME LT shocks would be right.

BTW: Is the stock uptravel of 4" measured up to the rubber BS or to the metal thing with the rubber inside?

Today I measured my old OME shocks and the distance from the spring perch to the BS.

OME shock length rear:
Collapsed: 14.4"
Extended: 24.5"
Installed with wheels on the ground: 19.5"
The shock allows 5.1" uptravel and 5" downtravel

There are already 2" BS extensions installed.
Distance spring perch - rubber BS: 5"
Distance spring perch - metal with the rubber BS inside: 7.1"

The shock can compress 5.1" until itīs collapsed.
But up to the metal thing thereīs still 2.1" room.

For me that means I would need 1" more BS in the rear.


Same in the front.
I thought 2" BS extensions would be enough with the OME LT shocks.

OME shock length rear:
Collapsed: 15.5"
Extended: 26.7"
Installed with wheels on the ground: 21.1"
The shock allows 5.6" uptravel and 5.6" downtravel.

There are already 3" BS extensions installed (because of rubbng tires under the fender / full lock).
I measured only 2" BS extensions because the posts in this thread say that 2" BS extensions would be enough.
Distance spring perch - rubber BS: 5"
Distance spring perch - metal with the rubber BS inside: 7.1"

The shock can compress 5.6" until itīs collapsed.
But up to the metal thing thereīs still 1.5" room.

1.5" more BS extensions are needed in the front IMO.

BTW: Is the stock uptravel of 4" measured up to the rubber BS or to the metal thing with the rubber inside?
03-11-2014 05:25 PM
nicolas-eric My suspension setup works perfect for me. Up/downtravel is about 40/60 in the front and the rear.
I have 5" of lift with currie CAs and trackbars.

That's why I don't understand why rancho offers that long rear shocks for a 5-6" lift.
I would have 2" less uptravel with them and more downtravel with shortarms doesn't make a sense to me.
The rancho shocks for 3.5" lift would work better IMO.

Here you can see how good it flexes with the ome shocks.
http://runicon.de/viewer.php?albid=952&stage=3

With rancho shocks for 5-6" in the front it would be the same.
With 3.5" shocks in the rear it would be about 0.75" less uptravel and 0.2" less downtravel.
For me that sounds way better than 2" less uptravel and 2" more downtravel in the rear with ranchos 5-6" shocks.
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