|05-09-2013 12:29 PM|
|PA Blondie||Thanks for the help! I have a friend up here that said he can take a look and help me out, he might even have an amp an sub that would work for me.|
|05-08-2013 03:50 PM|
You might want to find someone in the area that's good with car audio to help, it is going to be really difficult for us to know what's going on from PO if you don't have any experience with this.
My suggestion is find the wires going to the sound pod -- should be 4, and start fresh from there to make sure everything is done right.
Anyways, here's all you'll need for wiring up those speakers and the fronts off the amp as well. For reference, I mounted this amp to a piece of MDF and that fits in the center console where the factory sub went.
Amazon.com: MRX-F30 - Alpine 4-Channel 600 Watt Max Speaker Amplifier: Automotive
Amazon.com: Scosche Revopak4 4-Gauge Revo Series Single Amp Power and Audio Kit-Silver/Black: Electronics
Amazon.com: speaker wire: Electronics
If you plan on putting a sub in later, this is a good time to run the wires for it:
Amazon.com: Scosche Revopak8 8-Gauge Revo Series Single Amp Power and Audio Kit-Silver/Black: Electronics
Amazon.com: DB Link NANLFB02 0 AWG In/ (2) 4 AWG Out-2 Position ANL Power Distribution Fuse Block with Clear Heat Resistant Plastic Housing: Automotive
If you plan on getting a sub now:
Amazon.com: MRX-M50 - Alpine Monoblock 500 Watt RMS Subwoofer Amplifier: Automotive
Amazon.com: Scosche SE12CC 12-Inch Single Subwoofer Enclosure (Grey/Black): Automotive --- I can double check measurements on that if you want.
Amazon.com: Alpine SWS-12D4 12" Dual-Voice-Coil 4-Ohm Subwoofer SWS12D4: Automotive
Will set you back some dough to do all that but you wouldn't be disappointed...
|05-08-2013 03:05 PM|
OK, the pictures don't help hugely but let's see what we can do.
First, you appear to have six speakers in your sound bar. In order to specify an amp to drive them you need to understand what those speakers are capable of, so take each one out and look for identifying information. (You don't need to take every single one out, they will be matched pairs - take out the three on one side of the light, and the other three can be assumed to match.) The specs won't be listed on them, but if you can find a manufacturer name and model number we can find those specs online. What we need to know is:
- speaker impedance (listed in ohms)
- continuous power rating (known as RMS, and listed in watts)
- peak power rating (also listed in watts)
I'm curious as to what those six speakers are. If they are tweeter / mid / sub then it might make life quite easy, but once we know what they are and how they're rated we can fairly easily match an amp to the specs.
As to the wiring, the picture is a little confusing. Have you been able to identify one as a power cable for the amp? It should be thicker than most of the other cables, and probably red - I see a fat red cable in the middle of that bale, is that power? Is it attached to anything? And is the end covered with something? Because if it is power and it's live and not insulated at the end you could easily get a short (and a shock) if you're not careful, so that's your first priority.
You should also have a ground cable for the amp. That should be the same thickness as the power cable, probably black, and hopefully attached to a clean metal piece of the body.
Next, find a skinny little wire, probably blue, probably with no connector on the end. This is your remote turn on.
Then you'll look for probably five wires for your stereo outputs (front left, front right, rear left, rear right, sub). The outputs should have RCA plugs on them (I see a couple of RCA plugs peeking out of the cable bale), so separate those out and the remaining wires will be speaker wires.
The number of speaker wires will vary depending on what the speakers are and how they're set up. I am guessing that it would be a two way component set and a sub on each side, which means you're either going to have four or six wires from the soundbar. Do you know if you have speakers in the dashboard as well? If so, that's going to be another pair of wires. Hopefully they'll be colour-coded in some way, but we're probably going to have to do it through trial and error which is easy enough.
I think that's plenty to be going on with for now. It should be relatively straightforward if you're willing to spend a little bit of time on it. Good luck.
|05-08-2013 09:09 AM|
The wires come down the bar and under the carpet to the pile you see with the bundle of extra wires I have no idea what they go to.
|05-08-2013 08:31 AM|
|PA Blondie||I'll post a few pictures of the sound bar and the wiring I can see.... Unfortunately I don't understand most of what you are talking about... I can set up a home tv/stereo with surround sound no problem but vehicle stereo's confuse me.|
|05-07-2013 11:32 AM|
I agree with you that while we can advise, installing an amp may require running new power cables etc depending on previous build and therefore putting the Jeep in front of someone who knows what they're looking at might be a slightly safer bet. I'm afraid I'm nowhere near Pennsylvania so I can't really help, but let me know if you want to take your Jeep on a road trip to Canada......
|05-07-2013 11:04 AM|
yeah, makes no sense really... with the price of the cable, no reason to cheap out on the sound bar (unless thats not really the actual sound bar and blondie just posted that link to describe what he/she was talking about).
In reality.... it may even be a better idea to take your jeep to a friend that knows enough about stereos to tell you how its set up and what you could use. With too many variables in this scenario and not enough information... it would be hard to advise in any direction with certainty unless you wanted to start from complete scratch.
|05-07-2013 10:51 AM|
However, I am confused by the idea that someone who would go to the trouble of running amps and Monster cable and then stripping out the stock wire would put in a $200 soundbar with integrated speakers. I think we could probably do with some photos of wiring termination, speakers and the head unit itself so that we can sensibly advise.
|05-07-2013 10:25 AM|
I have a feeling the previous owner stripped out all the stock speaker wiring which is why hooking up to the radio directly wouldnt work. If they had ran wire to all the speaker locations including the soundbar up top, then more than likely they all ended up where they had the amps installed. If thats the case, then yes you would want an amp, or you would have to run that wire then up to the radio head unit and connect it there (which is ill advised).
Give us a better idea of your setup and we can help more.
Do you have amps now?
Know what speakers? How many? Where are they located? Have you traced the wire and know where it ends?
|05-07-2013 08:42 AM|
|woansleftpeg||That's unlikely. I don't think I've ever seen a head unit without speaker level line outs, you should be able to connect the soundbar speakers directly to the head unit. Do you have a factory head unit, or aftermarket? If it's aftermarket, do you know what it is?|
|05-07-2013 06:39 AM|
|PA Blondie||The Jeep already has it, but it is not hooked up... I want to hook it up but don't know how or what amp to use since I was told I would need one to run it.|
|05-06-2013 01:31 PM|
Without knowing the specs on the speakers it's impossible to know, but I'm going to venture to suggest that they're not going to be very good. I'm unconvinced about this whole replacement soundbar business unless your current soundbar is actually broken and in need of replacement; if you want an improved audio set up then buy the components necessary to improve the audio set up. All in one things like this are designed to be easy to buy and easy to sell and easy to install, not to actually be any good. For two hundred bucks you could buy a pair of decent coaxial speakers, a new sub and a mono amp to drive it, and it would almost certainly be vastly superior to this thing.
Monster is a brand of cabling much argued about by audiophiles and stereo enthusiasts. Some swear blind it makes all the difference, others will tell you that it's not worth the cost. I don't have a strong feeling on the topic, but I can promise you that one thing expensive cable can not do is make bad speakers sound good.
|05-06-2013 01:00 PM|
What kind of amp would I need to run this?
Amazon.com: Outland-Sound Bar: 1987-2004 Jeep Wrangler; Overhead Sound for 1987-2005 JEEP WRANGLER ALL: Electronics
My Jeep still has all the wiring from 2 amps and a 10" sub in the back. I was told the cable/wire was "Monster".... I know very little about this. I eventually want to get a new sub set up like the previous owner had.