|03-31-2014 05:46 PM|
Just thinking out loud here. Current setup is the TF 2.5" coil lift with Bilstein 5100's and 315 Duratracs..
Plan is to eventually add bumbers and winch. I know the TF coils are soft enough that I will lose some height. So now the brainstorm starts...
1. Add just enough spacer to get it back to current height(shouldn't need add'l parts)
2. Upgrade to Metal cloak 2.5" springs because the get nearly 3.5" without added weight(may need track bar and control arms here)
3. Go up to 3.5" Metal cloak springs for badassery factor(will definately need the TB's and CA's here with possiblity of high steer kit)
What say the experts???
|03-16-2014 05:03 PM|
|03-16-2014 04:52 PM|
How about RK's new 1.5's?
|03-16-2014 04:20 PM|
Thanks for the response.
The springs I have are 17/58 I believe. I was thinking upgrading to 19/60 and adding Rubicon shocks. When adding bumpers, the added weight will sag some so I didn't want to lose any lift/clearance with the leveling kit. So it's not technically worth upgrading the springs and shocks? Will it help with the added weight?
|03-16-2014 04:09 PM|
|kjeeper10||You have a 4 door and should already have "unlimited" springs. There's no such thing as rubicon springs, I doubt they will do anything for you. As long as you're sticking with 33's you should be ok, flat flares are another option for clearance without sacrificing ride.|
|03-16-2014 03:26 PM|
I'm currently running 33s with a TF Leveling Kit with 3.21 gears. I mainly take it on the beach and some light trails. My next mods will be front and rear bumpers. With the added weight of the bumpers, will I be able to keep the leveling Kit and maybe add Rubicon springs and shocks to help offset any sagging from the added weight? Or is it better to maybe go with a 2.5" lift first and then add the bumpers?
No plans for 35s just yet, it would be awhile before upgrading to them since the 33s are just fine right now. I want to make sure I keep the clearance when the bumpers are added. So, keep the leveling Kit and add Rubicon springs and shocks or replace with a 2.5"-3" lift? Thoughts?
|03-10-2014 06:44 PM|
|pbeachcruzer||you mention the 2" rancho sport as a basic lift, but not the 3" sport. my question is what are your thoughts on the rancho ca upgrade as a second step to the 3" sport lift? mild offroading with nothing larger than a 35 tire. '14 jk willys 4 door. my second choice would be the mc option, but the price is my biggest hangup on that one.|
|03-09-2014 11:09 PM|
|SteedGun||I see the Synergy LCA bolt kit mentioned in this thread a few times. I already have that one installed. What about the Synergy UCA bolt kit?|
|03-09-2014 10:23 PM|
I think I will just reuse my 35" MTRs on this (stock right now) new JKUR. I am thinking of 2" Synergy springs and Bushwacker flatties so I can avoid the need for aftermarket driveshafts (dreading DS vibrations). Otherwise, I'd prefer to use 3" springs and aftermarket driveshafts. Still going back and forth on the driveshafts. 2"= Flat fender while 3"= aftermarket driveshafts. That's my theory anyway.
Should I also get 2" longer stainless brake lines? I think Crown makes those. The usual 5"-6" longer ones are simply too long.
|03-02-2014 06:39 PM|
You don't need that much lift to run 37s.
|03-02-2014 06:20 PM|
I have an idea on a lifting in steps see what you think.
Rough Country 1.75 level kit w/shocks
I have about 80k on my ride now
Get lower control arms
Add 2.5-3.5 coil lift w/ track bars and new shocks
Total lift over 4.25
What are your thoughts.
I want to end up with 37"s
|03-01-2014 01:36 PM|
|10-31-2013 01:16 PM|
|10-31-2013 11:35 AM|
If you want a great Leveling Kit, we do a TON of the TeraFlex ones:
TeraFlex JK Leveling Kit
|10-31-2013 10:03 AM|
|Matador||Yeah man, like Jason just said, you should be fine with 33's you can even take it off road but you just might rub on full articulation. I would hold off on shocks until you get the 2.5" lift. For not a leveling kit will give you more than enough clearance for the 33's and will ride fine around town.|
|10-31-2013 08:46 AM|
Spaste, do you offroad your JK? If not, you will be fine around town with the 33's. Then you can just save and do the lift once and not twice.
|10-30-2013 06:13 PM|
Great thread! So couple questions. I definitely fall into the lifting in steps category. I plan on starting with tires (good idea?) I want to run 33" Duratracs on Mickey Thompson Sidebiter's, which has a 4.5" backspacing. I hear all the time you can run 33" without a lift, but I don't know that I will like the look. So, I'm thinking of getting a 2" BB until I go the extra scratch for a full spring lift (that will be a 2.5". No need to go bigger for me).
So questions. Good tire wheel combo with proper backspacing for now and where I eventually want to get?
If I put the BB in will it negatively affect the stock ride? I have a '13 JKUR. And finally, do I want to add a shock now? Will the shock I add now to a BB still work with a 2.5" lift? Or am I better off using extensions on the factory shocks and getting what I want when I move to a big boy lift?
Thanks in advance.
|10-24-2013 02:11 PM|
|Matador||Agree. There is nothing wrong with starting off gradually, its what this entire thread is about, "Lifting in Steps". I'm big on gradual improvements overtime and carefully planning your course of upgrades based on your personal needs. Its really hard to make overall recommendations to people if you have no idea what they will be doing with their Jeep. The best thing to do is suggest that they hit the trails as-is, whatever you need will quickly become apparent to you.|
|10-24-2013 12:00 PM|
Normally I wouldn't want to clutter up a thread with back and forth personal convo but I'm hoping that the ideals and viewpoints we're sharing about my specific scenario might provoke additional thoughts or provide insight to others that read it.
I have done some minor wheeling and have been in some pretty slick mud a couple of times. I do agree that the capabilities of even a stock Jeep are pretty remarkable.
While I'm most likely going to do 33's, I'd really love to have a set of 35's on there especially for that extra 1.5" rise of the pumpkins. The main reason I don't want to do 35's though, is gearing and axles. I have the 3:21's and a Dana 30 on the front. I've heard mixed things about needing to re-gear or not with 35's when you start off with 3.21's and it's probably mostly a matter of preference - but it's something I don't want to have to do now unless I decide I want to get into some more serious trails and make it more purpose built for off road rather than on. As long as it's my daily driver, I'd like to keep a good blend and not have to change out everything all at once and be able to spread it out over time in a nice progressive step process.
As far as the axles, I'm sure the D30 would be "ok" with the type of off road I will normally find myself in, even if I had heavier 35's on them. Even still it would add more stress and if I did end up in a situation where there high potential for breaking something, I'd like to be in the best boat I can with the D30 front axle and I think with that 33" tires would be a little on the safer side. Agree or disagree?
|10-24-2013 09:59 AM|
Yeah Branden, the most common bit of advice you'll get from everyone is to just go out and hit a trail as is. You'll pick up on what exactly you'll need for your individual use. It makes no sense for you to invest money on a big lift if you could really benefit more on other things for your specific terrain.
Personally, the move to 35" tires for me has been the best mod to date, followed by my rock rails. The leveling kit was just a necessity for the 35's to clear properly.
|10-24-2013 09:12 AM|
Again, very sound advice and you've given me something to think about and maybe even test to see how I like it since leveling kits are so cheap. I'll follow up once I do something with a review on how it all worked out etc. Thanks again!
|10-21-2013 08:21 AM|
|10-20-2013 04:22 PM|
|Tat_up03||Thanks Braindead. All the information is something I can work with.|
|10-17-2013 04:46 PM|
|10-17-2013 04:39 PM|
Eventually I'll do more components and really do it the right way (CA's, TB's etc) and if I ever raise her higher I'll do drive shafts. For now just some more capability out in the wild will be good with what I do.
|10-16-2013 05:00 PM|
|Tat_up03||Also I want to throw it out there I'm not vehicle savvy.|
|10-16-2013 04:58 PM|
|Tat_up03||Hey Gents, I've had a 2007 Unlimited X for almost 2 years and haven't done anything due to being out of the country a lot. I just finished Herculining it and now I want to start a lift but I don't want to go crazy with it. Maybe only 2". If you guys could give me some tips on a budgeted way to do it. Just saying thank you ahead of time.|
|10-16-2013 04:35 PM|
Your chances of more height are with MC not TF.
Most coils AEV/MC/RK will give 1" or so more on a lightweight jeep. TF is a good choice if you want to stay around 2.5"
|10-16-2013 03:35 PM|
Thanks for starting this awesome thread! I have a 2013 JKU Sport S Freedom Edition that is stock. The only added weight is from the Rubi factory rock rails that come on the Freedom package, but they don’t add much. I plan on adding front/rear bumpers, winch and tire carrier but those things won't happen for another 2 years or so. What I DO plan on in the near future is a lift and swapping the 32" tires to a 33" tire mounted on my stock 17" wheels.
Prior to reading this thread today I have been leaning towards the TF 2.5” coil lift paired with Bilstein 5100's. With the knowledge learned in this thread I know that I’ll end up with more than 2.5” and will likely have to get a lot more parts and spend a lot more $$$. If I’m going to spend that money, I’d also think about going with MC’s 2.5” with OME shocks.
But because I’m on a budget, if I spend more now it will further delay bumpers etc so it got me thinking: What if I order the TF 2.5 coil lift for the 2 door to put on my 4 door? Do you that the increased weight of the 4 door on a 2 door system would in essence be like having a loaded 4 door with the 4 door coil kit and yield the proper 2.5” lift?
I realize that when I DO add bumpers etc., that would make that 2 door lift less than 2” but at that point I could buy just the coils made for the 4 door and swap them out, leaving the rest of the components in place and still maintain the 2.5” of lift..I think.. Thoughts?
|09-10-2013 01:43 PM|
Thanks BB1857 and Matador,
First, "HD" is my wording not the sellers and therefore not accurate. I would only do this upgrade if the JDU springs are heavier duty than my current springs. I suspect the shocks/springs are the Sport version but essentially brand new. Still trying to confirm the spring spec's and shock type with the seller.
If the springs are heavier I'm tempted to do what you suggest and put in the springs, shocks and TF leveling kit as a first improvement. It would certainly give me an advantage over what I have for not much money.
I'm also leaning towards doing the work myself (perhaps with help from a more experienced buddy). I have the basic sockets, wrench set, torque wrench, etc but no air tools, jacks or lift. I could use my hand tools and buy or borrow the lifts & jacks.
I've also ordered some TF armored differential covers as the front differential is leaking slightly and need to install those soon. Rear 44 should be easy to access but I could use the lift/jacks to better access the top bolts on the Front 30.
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