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Topic Review (Newest First)
07-06-2014 04:29 PM
Black_and_Tan Read this entire thread over the long weekend. Lots of really good information, and I thank the contributors.

I am seriously thinking about changing tb bolts. I inquired at my dealer, and they refused to install any non-Mopar part.

I am a bit reluctant to tackle this on my own because I am not sure how to remove the stock bolts and then torque the new bolts to spec in the tight confines of the underside of the jeep. Perhaps the jackstand options will allow more leverage, but getting the proper tools into the tight areas looks daunting. Perhaps I am making this harder than it really is considering how many have successfully done this mod.

I think my first step will be to try and torque the stock bolts to spec. I suppose that if I can do that then I can tackle the bolt replacement.
06-27-2014 06:16 AM
TerraSol
Synergy Kit installed

Had the big Synergy Kit installed while doing the lift...

Attachment 1244458

all bolts are in
06-25-2014 07:51 AM
KPM171
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengen1 View Post
Ha...this thread is a sticky
Well color me embarrassed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tink5775 View Post
KPM171 - there has been a change in the Northridge kit since that was posted. They've added 2 14mm bolts and lock nuts to replace the Front Track Bar Frame Side bolt on 11 & 12 JKs.
Thanks for the heads up!
06-24-2014 07:33 AM
Tink5775 KPM171 - there has been a change in the Northridge kit since that was posted. They've added 2 14mm bolts and lock nuts to replace the Front Track Bar Frame Side bolt on 11 & 12 JKs.
06-23-2014 03:52 PM
bengen1
Quote:
Originally Posted by KPM171 View Post
Great write up! This should be a sticky.
Ha...this thread is a sticky
06-23-2014 03:34 PM
KPM171
Quote:
Originally Posted by westgd View Post
Hey all! I just bought my 2012 JKU 2 weeks ago, found this forum, and this was the first thread I read. Initially in this thread there was some confusion as to if the 2012's were affected (I was hoping not) but unfortunately they are. Needless to say it was kind of upsetting that for a first time jeep owner that I had to make a somewhat significant replacement like this. Oh well, as several people have posted, this is a good way to get to learn the underside of your jeep if you've never done something like this before.

Now keep in mind that I'm not much of a wrench turner. I'm more for mods that are easy and normally do not have the ability to really screw things up if I mess up so obviously this was a somewhat daunting task in my mind but I knew was something that I wanted to do. After a long yesterday, I successfully changed out all the bolts with no issues. So I guess what I'm saying is if I can do it then anyone can. Here is some info just to make it easier for anyone planning on doing this as well:

THE PROBLEM:

In a nutshell, the bolts mounting your front and rear track bars are a tiny bit smaller than the track bar holes so with this little movement and over time will basically stretch out the holes in the track bar which could potentially lead to further problems. This issue has been noted for a while and is not a TSB, Recall or a warranty issue with the dealership so this replacement is more of a proactive approach to avoid potential future issues.


BOLTS:

The two available options (That have been posted within this thread) for purchasing the replacement bolts online are:

EADOffroad.com Synergy Suspension Jeep JK F911 Hardware Kit

Included:
(8 each) 9/16-18 UNF x 4.0" long F911 bolts (LCAs)
(4 each) 9/16-18 UNF x 3.0" long F911 bolts (TBs)
(12 each) 9/16-18 UNF G9 Stover top lock nuts
(24 each) 9/16" Extra Thick G9 hardened flat washers

Northridge4x4.com Northridge4x4 Jeep Parts: JK Suspension Components

Included:
Grade 8 Jeep JK Hardware kit
(8 each) 9/16-18 x 4.0" long (LCAs)
(4 each) 9/16-18 x 3.0" long (TBs)
(12 each) 9/16-18 Stover top lock nuts
(24 each) 9/16" Extra Thick hardened flat washers


The difference between the two bolt packages is the EADoffroad package contains a higher grade bolt at a cost of about $20 more but the Northridge kit bolt grade is at recommended spec for this application so really either kit will work (I purchased the EADoffroad kit). You can go the option to purchase these bolts from another online vendor or your local hardware store but just make sure you're getting a minimum of grade 8 bolts. You may notice that you're getting bolts to replace your Lower Control Arms (LCAs) along with your Track bars (TBs), that's because these are actually suspension hardware upgrade kits. If you're really short on dime you could just buy hardware to replace the TB bolts since this is where the problem is but since you're going to be down there, might as well knock them all out. You can also replace your Upper Control Arm (UCA) bolts but I decided to wait on those since they aren't under the same stress as the TBs and LCAs.

Note: The 2012 front TB has a bearing joint on the frame side attachment point (Front Driver Side) that the 9/16-18 bolt, from either kit, will not fit through (I still tried anyway and no luck) so you have three options with this:
1) Buy an aftermarket TB to replace the stock TB which can accommodate the 9/16 bolts at each attachment point.
2) Continue using the stock bolt, just loosen it up and torque it to the proper level.
3) (This is what I did) Go to NAPA or ACE hardware (I found the correct size at both stores) and purchase a 14mm 3.0" Grade 10.9 bolt as a replacement. I purchased the bolt, 2 lock washers, 2 hardened flat washers, and a lock nut which all fit fine. I could have left out the 2 lock washers but figured what the hell.

Note: I don't recommend drilling it out, it kind of defeats the purpose of what you're doing plus it would just be a pain.

TOOLS:

These are the tools I used:

- 1/2" Torque wrench - Able to torque to at least 125 ft-lbs
- 22mm open ended wrench
- 21mm open ended wrench
- 1/2" Breaker Bar
- 21mm Deep socket
- 7/8" socket
- 13/16" socket
- I had a torque wrench but it was too big so I didn't even bother with it.

Some may say that you don't need all of this but I used every piece. When you're lying on your back with crap falling on your face and you don't have anyone helping it's easier to have an abundance of tools. One thing I do recommend is the 1/2" drive size on the torque wrench because with the limited space you have to work with, getting to the proper torque specs is a pain to reach.


INSTALLATION:

I did the bolt install with the Jeep all four wheels on the ground in my garage. Some people have used lifts / ramps but it seems the general consensus is to only replace these bolts with all four tires on the ground so that your vehicle is sitting at the proper ride height.

The first thing I did was remove the plastic covering under the front of the vehicle in order make access to everything underneath easier (Just 6 plastic tabs that you pop out to remove it). After you do this then you can use this photo as a reference for identifying each component: http://project-jk.com/gallery2/main....serialNumber=2

Basically all I did was pop out the old bolt and replaced it with new one; I had no fitting issues, each of the new bolts slid right in. There were a couple instances with the LCAs that I stuck a screwdriver into the mounting hole to align properly for the bolt to go in but that's really it. I installed the new bolts and just tightened them a little (Not all the way) and rocked the Jeep all around (Left-Right / Back- Forward) just to make sure everything settled right then I torqued each bolt to the proper specs:

TBs - 125ft-lbs
LCAs - 125fl-lbs

If you did the UCAs then:

Front UCAs - 75ft-lbs
Rear UCAs - 125ft-lbs

Trust me; doing this on your back with the Jeep on the ground is a pain to get the torque to the proper spec. I had to contort my body into all different positions to get the right leverage on some bolts and now my body is aching so be prepared. Some on this thread have recommended a ratchet strap so this may help you or if you have a buddy who can assist. Again, I did this by myself so it is doable solo.

One issue I did encounter is last night when I took the Jeep out for a test drive, I noticed that my steering wheel was no longer centered. Initial I kind of freaked out and thought that I had bent something while torqueing all the bolts but after some searching found that, short of bending a tie rod, the steering wheel getting knocked out of center is a common thing while messing with suspension components. No worries though, it took me just 5 minutes to fix by following this nice guide: Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Basic Do-it-Yourself Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment

NOTE: Please understand that I'm not a mechanic and I pulled some of info from this thread and throughout other forums so the following may be my or others opinions and please be gentle if I've misspoken. I want to also thank all the people who have contributed to this thread which allowed me to consolidate this info, THANKS!

That's pretty much it. Hope this helps and good luck!
Great write up! This should be a sticky.
06-13-2014 01:24 AM
mooney201
Quote:
Originally Posted by scipio337 View Post
Just wondering, how much did the dealer charge you for the install?
He estimated 1/2 hour, so even though it took them 3.5 hours, he charged me $57.
06-12-2014 05:39 AM
scipio337
Quote:
Originally Posted by mooney201 View Post
Read my post on the Northridge bolt kit.

Today 2480 easy miles on our 2014 JKUR, our dealer installed the Northridge kit.
The bushings were scarred from the all thread stock bolt.
Just wondering, how much did the dealer charge you for the install?
06-11-2014 06:15 PM
mooney201 Read my post on the Northridge bolt kit.

Today 2480 easy miles on our 2014 JKUR, our dealer installed the Northridge kit.
The bushings were scarred from the all thread stock bolt.
06-10-2014 03:46 AM
H3br3whamm3r81 Okay, it seems like only one bolt is undersized...and I don't feel like replacing other bolts that don't need to be replaced.

So, can someone please tell me the dimensions of the bolt that needs to be replaced and the dimensions of the bolt that it should be replaced by?
06-07-2014 03:20 PM
RubiNewb I got this done last night. Raised the Jeep on my brother's lift and used an air ratchet which made things go much easier and faster, although we did end up stripping one of the new track bar bolts, but luckily we had extra because my front track bar used the 14mm bolts. I have 28k miles on mine and have been off-roading about 5 times but nothing too major like serious rock crawling etc. and did not notice any damage to the bushings except on the front track bar where we encountered the longest holdup because the bushing sleeve had a bur in it which made getting the bolt in really fun. All of my bolts were really tight from the factory except the front track bar bolt driver side. I still have no clue why the factory put threaded bolts on the suspension parts. Seems like a simple and cheap thing to do to just put shouldered bolts from the factory.
06-03-2014 05:51 PM
kjeeper10 That works. 8 lower CA bolts (longer) and 4 track bar bolts (shorter) Front upper may need 14mm depending on bushing/year.

Remember to replace the bolts in one arm at a time and leave loose. Replace 4 track bar bolts but leave loose.
If installing a lift also, loosen uppers but don't remove.
After all done. Install tires and lower to ride height. (You can also support at the axles for more room)
Give the jeep a good shake letting the bushings set to their new positions. Torque to spec
Lower CA's all 125
Rear upper CA's 125
Front upper CA's 75
2 track bars 125

I found a long breaker bar like this one from harbor freight helps w/ solo torquing. Anchor against the ground to hold the bolt head from spinning.
06-03-2014 05:35 PM
shimps1 Got it.

So for the greater good of the forum, I made another picture, hopefully I did everything correct. Let me know if I made any errors, but I think this will help everyone visualize the bolts that need changed.

06-03-2014 04:52 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by shimps1 View Post
Just to clarify, the basic kit, for the LCAs and TBs, is replacing the bolts I circles below, correct? And in that pic, where do the smaller bolts go? I bought the Synergy kit last night.
Yes. The smaller bolts are for the track bars.
06-03-2014 04:46 PM
shimps1 Just to clarify, the basic kit, for the LCAs and TBs, is replacing the bolts I circles below, correct?



And in that pic, where do the smaller bolts go? I bought the Synergy kit last night.
06-03-2014 02:19 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiNewb View Post
Ok, I see now, for the 2012s and up, looks like the front track bar only requires a 14mm bolt frameside and in the bushing, thus the reason for the two regular zinc coated bolts...according to the below: Note: The 2012 front TB has a bearing joint on the frame side attachment point (Front Driver Side) that the 9/16-18 bolt, from either kit, will not fit through Just wanted to make sure I DIO & DIR!
Correct, but it does appear. not all 2012 +'s are that way.
06-03-2014 01:28 PM
RubiNewb
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Use the gold 9/16. If one does not work (front upper frame TB, use the 14 mm.
Ok, I see now, for the 2012s and up, looks like the front track bar only requires a 14mm bolt frameside and in the bushing, thus the reason for the two regular zinc coated bolts...according to the below:

Note: The 2012 front TB has a bearing joint on the frame side attachment point (Front Driver Side) that the 9/16-18 bolt, from either kit, will not fit through

Just wanted to make sure I DIO & DIR!
06-03-2014 10:37 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhicanders View Post
I sure hope it's just the front... only 2 and all. According to this just the front, however I believe it was just 2014's: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/th...ml#post2117647
Use the gold 9/16. If one does not work (front upper frame TB, use the 14 mm.
06-03-2014 10:36 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVT_N8 View Post
This looks like a good route for those wanting to just do the minimum... 2007 2014 Jeep JK JKU Wrangler Track Bar Bolt Upgrade Kit Grade 8 Free US | eBay
Nice find
06-03-2014 10:11 AM
mhicanders
Quote:
Originally Posted by shimps1 View Post
Front or rear?
I sure hope it's just the front... only 2 and all.

According to this just the front, however I believe it was just 2014's:

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f274/th...ml#post2117647
06-03-2014 10:04 AM
shimps1
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhicanders View Post
The zink bolts are for 2014 LCA frame side.

Front or rear?
06-03-2014 08:09 AM
mhicanders
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiNewb View Post
Need help, the (8) 4" bolts are for the lower control arms, the (4) 3" bolts are for the front and rear track bar...what are the two zinc bolts for? I have the Northridge kit but newbied out when I laid these bolts out... Thanks!
The zink bolts are for 2014 LCA frame side.
06-03-2014 08:07 AM
RubiNewb Need help, the 8 longer bolts are for the lower control arms, the (4) 3" bolts are for the front and rear track bar...what are the two zinc bolts for? I have the Northridge kit but newbied out when I laid these bolts out... Thanks!
06-03-2014 05:52 AM
SVT_N8 This looks like a good route for those wanting to just do the minimum...
2007 2014 Jeep JK JKU Wrangler Track Bar Bolt Upgrade Kit Grade 8 Free US | eBay
06-03-2014 04:27 AM
kjeeper10 The uppers are overkill IMO .. Hell even CA's for most people. The 2 front track bar bolts are the most important because of death wobble. Grade 9 is overkill .. The tinsel strength between grade 8 and factory 10.9 is the same. Being "stronger" has nothing to do with the thread in general. Slightly bigger and the shoulder help fill the hole and prolong bushing wear.
Like I said already ... I did have a rear CA loosen to where it was clanking around. A friend was hearing some noises and stopped by. Running the geo brackets all but 1 driver side CA bolt was tight. 1 was about to fall out. She did note a tighter steering feel but no big issues.
Now if a front track bar bolt were to loosen, I almost guarantee death wobble.
Crap ... If I were to do it again. I would just source 2 fronts and call it a day.
06-03-2014 12:50 AM
Bonecollector
Quote:
Originally Posted by shimps1 View Post
What is everyone's opinion on the various kits? From what I understand, the Northridge Grade 8 kit is the minimum, does the TB and the LCAs. Is it worth it to spend the extra $40 or so on the Synergy kit, in order to get the harder bolts?

And even above that, is it worth it to replace the UCA bolts, which would require the full Synergy kit? My research has lead me to believe the UCA bolts aren't really an issue.
Based on what several of the folks here have posted and the information I have read in other places you may be right. I bought the entire synergy kit so I've decided to do the whole job. I will record all the findings and then decide if I wasted the energy and money. If I had it to buy over I would have started with just TB and LCAs. If they were real bad. I would then look to get the UCAs. The threads bother me more than the undersize. Just my thoughts on it now.
06-02-2014 10:39 PM
shimps1 What is everyone's opinion on the various kits? From what I understand, the Northridge Grade 8 kit is the minimum, does the TB and the LCAs. Is it worth it to spend the extra $40 or so on the Synergy kit, in order to get the harder bolts?

And even above that, is it worth it to replace the UCA bolts, which would require the full Synergy kit? My research has lead me to believe the UCA bolts aren't really an issue.
05-31-2014 11:02 PM
cmaggi2
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhicanders View Post
I'm sure it's much worse for those who are smaller, I weigh 240# so I've got enough ballast.. I can't imagine how tough is it for slim/short folks!
That's me lol. 5'7" and 160. I have to hang from the wrench for it to click.
05-31-2014 11:00 PM
mhicanders
Quote:
Originally Posted by cmaggi2 View Post
You're right. Torquing to 125 on your back is a beast.
I'm sure it's much worse for those who are smaller, I weigh 240# so I've got enough ballast.. I can't imagine how tough is it for slim/short folks!
05-31-2014 10:57 PM
Bonecollector Two bags of Synergy bolts just setting there looking at me......they say "Well what are you waiting for?" a six pack of Monster Zero.....
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