|Yesterday 08:16 PM|
|Yesterday 06:48 PM|
|Yesterday 06:36 PM|
I loosened all the bolts on the ground and and then put the Jeep frame on jack stands and the axle on smaller ones when we needed to support it or support it on one side or the other to let the other side down to put in springs. With the Jeep and axle on stands, we changed to bolts, one by one. Sometimes it took a little gentle persuasion to get the holes to line up. But if you do one at a time and everything is supported, it's never more than a 1/4 inch or so.
Once you're done and all the nuts are on securely, put the Jeep in the ground and go around tightening and torquing them. It ain't fun but it can be done. Don't tighten the nuts before it's on the ground. The idea of loosening the bolts and all the CA's and TB's is to let those rubber bushings relax. If you snug up the nuts in the air, you could compress the bushing and it will twist when you put the Jeep on the ground.
Now, if you want to cheat, you can leave the axles on jack stands for some of the bolts. Just too hard to get at, the rear mainly. The Jeep was sitting on the springs with just the tires off and the axles supported (one axle at a time, of course). That should sit at ride height if you position the jack stands at about ride height under the axle.
Having the extra stands was handy. If you don't have a smaller 2 ton pair, get some. If you don't have the 6 ton jacks, get those to get the Jeep higher in the air to give your self room to lower the axles.
|Yesterday 06:25 PM|
Got it! That's what I was thinking but for some reason, I was doubting myself. So, for suspenion bolts, I could drive her up the ramps. For springs and shocks, I need to jack up the body so the entire axle/ wheel pair is off the ground.
So, how would you do springs/ shocks/ all suspension bolts altogether? You have to unbolt control arms and track bars while doing the spring/shocks, right?
If what I'm thinking is right, then I should be using jack/ jackstands on the body, then replace the suspension bolts and springs/shocks while Jeep is on jackstands, but don't torque suspension bolts to spec until Jeep is on ground. Is that right? If that's right, it would be a waste to get ramps for this install, right?
|Yesterday 05:30 PM|
|Yesterday 02:25 PM|
Since I happened to see this thread, I thought I'd mention I changed out my bolts, lowers and TB's, when I installed my 2.5 TF lift. 1800 miles and my bushing were already scored. Only a couple of trips off road, maybe 30 miles total out of the 1800 and nothing serious. Just two tracks and dirt roads with a bit of rocks but pretty easy stuff.
Glad I changed them out! It sucked loosening, removing, tightening and re-torquing all those bolts but I had to loosen and re-torque anyway with the lift install. Now, I have some piece of mind that my bushings aren't being torn to shreds.
|Yesterday 02:10 PM|
Cool, thanks guys. I might just go with the Rhino ramps then.
I've never done suspension work on a Jeep. From my understanding, to install springs, you need to lower the axle with a hydraulic jack underneath. I'm not going to have any problem doing that with the Jeep on ramps, right?
|Yesterday 01:22 PM|
|NoGaBiker||rhino ramps are what I've been using since 1995. Good stuff if you don't need a super high lift.|
|Yesterday 11:47 AM|
I have used jack stands for years, but recently bought two sets of RhinoRamps ($45/set) and really love the convenience. They offer about 7" of lift and they're wide enough for stock Rubicon tires.
I use 4-low to make it easy to drive onto the ramps and they never slip on my driveway.
|Yesterday 07:53 AM|
I wouldn't worry about a Jeep falling off the ramps sideways. Next to impossible. Assuming you can get it to climb up on all four ramps at the same time, without skidding some or all of them across your floor, you will be good.
I had so much trouble with ramps skidding that I drilled two holes in my concrete floor, inserted screw-in anchors, and then used a 2x4 that I would lightly bolt into those anchors any time I wanted to use ramps. I'd just nose the ramps up against the 2x4 and they would finally stay put. Otherwise, I've not had good luck. They do work better on coarse-finish driveway concrete than on slicker garage floors.
|Yesterday 12:18 AM|
I was thinking about buying two pairs of ramps for the Jeep. Place each ramp in front of each tire, so each axle (pair of tires/wheels) ends up on top of a ramp once I drive up. That would give me more room to work underneath.
Question is, has anyone done this? I'm wondering if it's safe. I was thinking I can buy some 4x4s and stack them on each side of the ramp, in case a tire falls off the ramp, it won't send the entire Jeep down. Also, I could put chocks behind the tires while they're on the ramp.
I need to swap all four springs, all four shocks, and replace all the suspension bolts in a day or two. Just want to make this as easy as possible for me.
Here's what I was thinking of...supposedly adds 10" of space.
Amazon.com: Race Ramps RR-XT-2 67-Inch XT 2-Piece Race Ramp: Race Ramps: Automotive
|07-20-2014 04:49 PM|
If any of you end up doing the UCAs you might want to PM me as there are a few tricks to getting two of the bolts started. I can save you a lot of time.
|07-20-2014 04:06 PM|
She is done.
Just did this today. I know how to turn wrenches but do not work as a mechanic and I am OLD. Took me 3 hours with basic hand tools and a couple of breaks. All bolts looked good. LCA bushings were scarred from the bolts. 50K on the Jeep and have not had DW. Did not notice any difference after the change.
|07-06-2014 04:29 PM|
Read this entire thread over the long weekend. Lots of really good information, and I thank the contributors.
I am seriously thinking about changing tb bolts. I inquired at my dealer, and they refused to install any non-Mopar part.
I am a bit reluctant to tackle this on my own because I am not sure how to remove the stock bolts and then torque the new bolts to spec in the tight confines of the underside of the jeep. Perhaps the jackstand options will allow more leverage, but getting the proper tools into the tight areas looks daunting. Perhaps I am making this harder than it really is considering how many have successfully done this mod.
I think my first step will be to try and torque the stock bolts to spec. I suppose that if I can do that then I can tackle the bolt replacement.
|06-27-2014 06:16 AM|
Synergy Kit installed
Had the big Synergy Kit installed while doing the lift...
all bolts are in
|06-25-2014 07:51 AM|
|06-24-2014 07:33 AM|
|Tink5775||KPM171 - there has been a change in the Northridge kit since that was posted. They've added 2 14mm bolts and lock nuts to replace the Front Track Bar Frame Side bolt on 11 & 12 JKs.|
|06-23-2014 03:52 PM|
|06-23-2014 03:34 PM|
|06-13-2014 01:24 AM|
|06-12-2014 05:39 AM|
|06-11-2014 06:15 PM|
Read my post on the Northridge bolt kit.
Today 2480 easy miles on our 2014 JKUR, our dealer installed the Northridge kit.
The bushings were scarred from the all thread stock bolt.
|06-10-2014 03:46 AM|
Okay, it seems like only one bolt is undersized...and I don't feel like replacing other bolts that don't need to be replaced.
So, can someone please tell me the dimensions of the bolt that needs to be replaced and the dimensions of the bolt that it should be replaced by?
|06-07-2014 03:20 PM|
|RubiNewb||I got this done last night. Raised the Jeep on my brother's lift and used an air ratchet which made things go much easier and faster, although we did end up stripping one of the new track bar bolts, but luckily we had extra because my front track bar used the 14mm bolts. I have 28k miles on mine and have been off-roading about 5 times but nothing too major like serious rock crawling etc. and did not notice any damage to the bushings except on the front track bar where we encountered the longest holdup because the bushing sleeve had a bur in it which made getting the bolt in really fun. All of my bolts were really tight from the factory except the front track bar bolt driver side. I still have no clue why the factory put threaded bolts on the suspension parts. Seems like a simple and cheap thing to do to just put shouldered bolts from the factory.|
|06-03-2014 05:51 PM|
That works. 8 lower CA bolts (longer) and 4 track bar bolts (shorter) Front upper may need 14mm depending on bushing/year.
Remember to replace the bolts in one arm at a time and leave loose. Replace 4 track bar bolts but leave loose.
If installing a lift also, loosen uppers but don't remove.
After all done. Install tires and lower to ride height. (You can also support at the axles for more room)
Give the jeep a good shake letting the bushings set to their new positions. Torque to spec
Lower CA's all 125
Rear upper CA's 125
Front upper CA's 75
2 track bars 125
I found a long breaker bar like this one from harbor freight helps w/ solo torquing. Anchor against the ground to hold the bolt head from spinning.
|06-03-2014 05:35 PM|
So for the greater good of the forum, I made another picture, hopefully I did everything correct. Let me know if I made any errors, but I think this will help everyone visualize the bolts that need changed.
|06-03-2014 04:52 PM|
|06-03-2014 04:46 PM|
Just to clarify, the basic kit, for the LCAs and TBs, is replacing the bolts I circles below, correct?
And in that pic, where do the smaller bolts go? I bought the Synergy kit last night.
|06-03-2014 02:19 PM|
|06-03-2014 01:28 PM|
Note: The 2012 front TB has a bearing joint on the frame side attachment point (Front Driver Side) that the 9/16-18 bolt, from either kit, will not fit through
Just wanted to make sure I DIO & DIR!
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