|11-23-2010 08:23 PM|
|10-06-2010 08:24 PM|
Update; It still works great.
I don't use it all that much, but when I do it has plenty of power for anything I need to do.
It's been mounted in it's brackets, & I just put the belt on when I'm welding.
|10-18-2009 11:55 PM|
|baja||looks like an alternator off a 231 cat track hoe,maybe a little shorter,but it sure looks like one.I know they will melt a wrench!|
|09-26-2009 02:06 AM|
I didn't seem to mention that the welder output is controlled by how fast you spin the pulley. I have been running it at around 1600 rpm's to do the light gauge stuff, & it goes up from there.
Can't turn it down too low or it bogs down the motor until it can't stabilize an arc. this is why i still want to get a dimmer/rheostat.
I got the hood to close by beating up from the inside with a ball peen hammer, until it didn't hit the welder anymore. This left an unsightly bulge on my hood.
Thankfully I had some vintage cal-custom hood scoops to hide the mess!
|05-21-2009 05:33 AM|
Also look into what side drop the front axle is, that you want to use.
Finding a front D60 with a drivers side drop is not easy. I cant remember whether the Dodge was or not.
I don't believe any stock D-60 will drop right in a YJ. Mods will have to be made, such as spring perches moved & U-joint/driveshaft would have to be addressed.
1/8" rods, & maybe as thin as 1/8" steel.
A headlight dimmer is supposed to allow lower amps than I can't currently turn down to.
It's highly likely, that I'll be looking at some old Mercedes-Benz next trip to the junkyard.
Of course not everyone has such a big alt for a welder.
If you were using a large frame Ford, or a rewired CS144 you would be working with much thinner rods & work-metal.
1/16" to 3/32" rods are what I've been reading about, as far as what other people are using with the junkyard alts.
Hope this helps, & please do yourself a favor & research the hell out of this idea before buying anything. I ended up buying the wrong Ford alt, & still have the 60 amp unit in my shed. I could rig it up in my minivan but it won't burn anything larger than 1/16" rods.
I'll try yo help you, & have some links but knowledge was & is key to this & all the redneck mods I've done. I went to school (Google & 15 different message boards) for every one of them.
I only began each project, after I was 100% sure they would work & I could complete them.
|05-21-2009 12:28 AM|
|YjMopower||question about your modd.Can you adjust the power or voltage amount ?is that the reason for the dimmer?from what thickness does your welder range?|
|05-20-2009 10:47 PM|
|YjMopower||great thanks for the info although i looked through ebay motors and there priced around 2000 for the whole truck .Is there a special place i can go to to find them any cheaper or is that good enough?question what leaf springs will i use with the dana 60 on my yj?|
|05-19-2009 05:47 AM|
You should try to see if you can use a Dodge power wagon's entire drivetrain.
It's all really heavy duty stuff. D-60 front & D-70 rear in 1967.
I think the early 70's had the axle U-joints unlike the older ball & trunnions of the 1960's. Killer tough divorced transfer cases too.
When I moved South two years ago, I had to give away a 1967 P/W setup.
Axles & T-case mentioned above, & a big Granny tranny.
Wish I'd have at least kept the axles. Unless a B&T front D-60 cant be made to have axle U-joints.
|05-19-2009 12:16 AM|
|YjMopower||ive been researching about the swap on The Mopar Small Block V8 Engine - Novak Conversions and they say the 727 would have some clearance issues i dont mind having some mix components just really want to stay within the chrsler corp . do you guys think i could see 20 or more on gas mieagle.another question what transfer case can i use for the np435?|
|05-18-2009 06:16 AM|
Well if your going with an auto tranny, the AMC unit is actually a re-belled Mopar 727.
All the guts are Mopar. The tail housing mount is supposedly Mopar too,
So you could go with a total Mopar drivetrain, or some mix or components.
The 360 Mopar small block is a good choice. The long connecting (piston) rods will have some torque to bring to the table. This is good for wheeling, & drag racing, not so much for high RPM's though. The engine's rotating mass is tougher to balance than say a 318.
I have many years of Mopar muscle car experience, but not much of it is from engine work. I can make a car hook up though! Leaf springs can be made to work, if you don't mind using an adjustable pinion snubber.
|05-18-2009 01:44 AM|
|GrnTJ||Hey, just a heads up but I got a dodge np435 that I dont need. Was gonna use it for my TJ but I changed my plans. Will bolt right to the back of a 360 (actually, thats what it came off from). Let me know if your interested. pm me if you wanna talk motors too. I dont think there is a swap under the sun that I havent read into at least a little bit and I have all kinds of information bookmarked on just about everything.|
|05-17-2009 11:11 PM|
|05-17-2009 10:45 PM|
Here are some pics of the junkyard tube doors;
|05-17-2009 09:03 PM|
You can do one cheap, see post #12 in this thread. Easy as pie!
Don't have to be hard core to have a welder on board.
|05-17-2009 10:01 AM|
|05-17-2009 09:10 AM|
BTW dooder, what part of S.E. Pa. are you in?
I used to live in N.E. Philly until about two years ago. Lived there for 34 years! Glad to finally get the hell out!!!
YJMopower, do you actually have a Mopar V8 in your YJ? Pics???
|05-17-2009 08:42 AM|
Dude, you don't know the half of it!
The welder really is cool, & I'm proud to have it in my possession.
I'm not planning on leaving it permanently mounted though, it's too heavy & might rip the intake manifold off upon any harsh landings.
I have an ammo can (Fat 50) that it just fits inside. I'll make an angle iron mount for it in the bed, for wheeling trips.
I just put another one on my York OBA.
|05-16-2009 11:40 AM|
|YjMopower||hey i just noticed is that a air intake on your pcv?|
|05-16-2009 11:38 AM|
|YjMopower||so did you figure out anything with the hood does it go all the way down now?|
|05-16-2009 07:35 AM|
|dooder||That is cool, your kinda weird but that welder is definitely cool.|
|05-15-2009 11:23 PM|
Went out & got the belt I needed for the bigger pulley. Still need one size tighter. Not much adjustment to be had, but it's workable for now.
I was running some E-7018 1/8" wire tonight @ 1500 rpm's
Welded up one of my junkyard tube doors, before the rain came.
Sorry, no time for pics tonight. I'll get some when I have a chance.
I think I'm gonna forgo the dimmer, as it's working nicely with just an rpm change. Hand throttle is real nice to have!
I put a lot of time, effort, & $$$ into this contraption. Glad to see it paid off.
I'm pretty damned psyched!
The welder runs exceptionally well, the arc is smooth although it seems that you need to keep the arc tight, or it breaks. Scratch start is easier than my AC buzz box.
Beads look like they're supposed to, & penetration is damn good!
Coolest thing is the sound of the arc itself. The arc sounds like the alternator's whistle/whine. Kind of like if you hum while whistling. (This may be due to the alternator's high frequency)
|05-14-2009 11:13 PM|
I thrashed on the heep tonight & yanked the steering pump. Drilled through the dual pulley, & bolted the crankshaft pullet to it. Now the front pulley is bigger than the one that drives the steering pump. This makes for a tricky steering belt removal. Every thing has to be done in a certain order for anything to work out.
At least my RPM problem is solved, & I can get to welding up those junkyard tube doors sooner!
|05-14-2009 12:10 PM|
|05-13-2009 10:02 PM|
You could do this for less than $100.00!!!!!!11
The York A/C compressor is now my on-board air, or will be very soon.
Jeep related bulletin boards such as this one, & Google are your friend when it comes to redneck YJ mods!
Take the time to research each project, until your are 100% confident that you can do it. Then research a little bit more!
|05-13-2009 10:56 AM|
that is really cool. i have been shopping for a gas welder, just for work around the house (fences etc.) but to have it on the trail too would be cool. and for 350 bucks....you couldn't buy 1/3 of a gas welder
what was the york compressor for?
|05-12-2009 10:42 PM|
(An old school large frame Ford (100+ amps) alternator with external regulator, can be found at the nearest junk yard. Just feed the exiter terminal with 12 Volts & the batt. terminal is (+) weld lead, alt case is (-) weld lead, & your in bidness!
Much cheaper than a used $300.00 Leece-Neville!) Don't switch the leads if welding on your own rig. Stinger must be positive! (Reverse polarity)
Warning, Straight polarity (negative stinger) will fry your vehicle' electrics & electronics.( only need to worry about this on the vehicle that runs the welder.
OK, back to the tally. $75.00 for the York compressor, The two pulley steering pump, & all the related brackets & belts + $45.00 to ship that (used)
$30.00 or so for new belts. $10..0 for the new stinger, & $8.00 for ground clamp. Another $20.00 or so for odds & ends, bolts etc.
$338.00 Now I still need to address the small pulley=$o.oo
also the dimmer= who knows might find one at the junkyard for cheap.
So $340 so far @ 220 amps. Should be a better deal than the pre-packaged deals they sell for $1000.00+ which might be 190 amps if that.
|05-12-2009 09:32 AM|
|whitebuffalo||thats awesome. total cost?|
|05-11-2009 11:23 PM|
|05-11-2009 10:30 AM|
|05-11-2009 06:40 AM|
UPDATE; It lives!!!!
WELDZILLA came to life yesterday. Gotta go to work now, but will post pics ASAP.
Needs to be driven by a larger pulley, but I was running 1/8" E-6011 @ 2500 rpm's.
Also need a rheostat, since the A.C. one I got from Lowe's didn't work.
I'm thinking A headlight dimmer might be the ticket.
Also my hood won't close with it mounted up.
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