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Topic Review (Newest First)
Yesterday 11:13 PM
H3br3whamm3r81 If you want to make lemonade from lemons, just think of it as getting acquainted with your Jeep's suspension. Better yet, upgrade your suspension (i.e., install a lift) when you do it, so you knock out two birds with one stone.
Yesterday 11:09 PM
Fr8dawg The vast majority of lightly driven, street only, non modified Wranglers on stock wheels and tires will probably be fine with the threaded bolts... But why risk it? Dealing with death wobble at 30-40,000 miles where the average dealership mechanic will just start replacing things (other than the problematic bolts lol)... Or do it yourself off the bat and prevent future headaches.
Yesterday 11:05 PM
CrossOps $32k brand new for a 2015, and this? I am a little taken back at the moment.
Yesterday 10:59 PM
Fr8dawg
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrossOps View Post
Ok, I will go ahead and state that I am very new to jeeps. But to clarify... are you saying my brand new 2015 Wrangler is going to need to do this? Brand new?
Thats what Im sayin! Its amazing such a huge design flaw like this was never corrected at the factory... Oh well, bolts are relatively cheap and will be going on someday (whenever rock krawler suspension sends my dang coils lol)
Yesterday 10:58 PM
H3br3whamm3r81 There's no way to know. Easy test is, pick a suspension bolt. Remove it. If the bolt is fully threaded up to the head, then in all likelihood all the other suspension bolts on control arms and track bar are also fully threaded.

I really, really doubt the Jeep engineers will change the bolt design for the remainder of the JK's production. One, it will add more expense. Two, it will almost give the owners of the previous years a reason to go to the dealer and demand the dealer replace the "defective" fully threaded bolts. After all, if there isn't a problem with fully threaded bolts, why would (hypothetically) Jeep all of a sudden change the design?
Yesterday 10:56 PM
jason75087
Quote:
Originally Posted by CrossOps View Post
Ok, I will go ahead and state that I am very new to jeeps. But to clarify... are you saying my brand new 2015 Wrangler is going to need to do this? Brand new?
Yep! Unless they change from 14mm, no collar, bolts to 9/16 with a collar (which is what the kits provide).

There are guys on here with bone stock under 10k miles that noticed unusual wear when changing the bolts. Cheap insurance to prevent Death Wobble!
Yesterday 10:49 PM
CrossOps Ok, I will go ahead and state that I am very new to jeeps. But to clarify... are you saying my brand new 2015 Wrangler is going to need to do this? Brand new?
Yesterday 10:16 PM
SteedGun One more thing I did on mine. I put Tri-Flow on all the bushings as I put them back. The bushings will start to squeak once they dry out and it will drive you nuts trying to find the one squeaking. I know I spent almost a month hunting down some serious squeakers on my 2010. So, when I was replacing all the bolts on my 2014 I put Tri-Flow on all the bushings. Mine is quiet as a mouse.
Yesterday 08:56 PM
T3Knical5urg3 How is this not stickied? This is far more important then some of the other stickied topics.
Yesterday 05:43 PM
Tnewcomb
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteedGun View Post
You will be sore for days. I am very glad mine are all done. I actually did the LCAs, TBs, and UCAs. I bought both bolt kits from Synergy. I did them all just to be sure. I am very glad I have a long breaker bar and torque wrench. This is real work for sure but really worth the time and effort.

If any of you end up doing the UCAs you might want to PM me as there are a few tricks to getting two of the bolts started. I can save you a lot of time.
You are not kidding about being sore but still glad I did it myself and I do feel some difference hitting the bumps on the roads going back and forth to work.
07-21-2014 08:16 PM
NoGaBiker
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2013 Moab View Post
I did my spring swap while on ramps, it was very easy actually. Just put a floor jack under the side that you are working and remove that one ramp, now just drop the floor jack down ant you have plenty of travel.
But then you aren't "up on ramps," are you, hence my answer.
07-21-2014 06:48 PM
2013 Moab
Quote:
Originally Posted by NoGaBiker View Post
well, yeah, you sure are. The wheel can't lower if it's on a ramp. For springs you'll need to be on jackstands.
I did my spring swap while on ramps, it was very easy actually. Just put a floor jack under the side that you are working and remove that one ramp, now just drop the floor jack down ant you have plenty of travel.
07-21-2014 06:36 PM
flyfishnevada I loosened all the bolts on the ground and and then put the Jeep frame on jack stands and the axle on smaller ones when we needed to support it or support it on one side or the other to let the other side down to put in springs. With the Jeep and axle on stands, we changed to bolts, one by one. Sometimes it took a little gentle persuasion to get the holes to line up. But if you do one at a time and everything is supported, it's never more than a 1/4 inch or so.

Once you're done and all the nuts are on securely, put the Jeep in the ground and go around tightening and torquing them. It ain't fun but it can be done. Don't tighten the nuts before it's on the ground. The idea of loosening the bolts and all the CA's and TB's is to let those rubber bushings relax. If you snug up the nuts in the air, you could compress the bushing and it will twist when you put the Jeep on the ground.

Now, if you want to cheat, you can leave the axles on jack stands for some of the bolts. Just too hard to get at, the rear mainly. The Jeep was sitting on the springs with just the tires off and the axles supported (one axle at a time, of course). That should sit at ride height if you position the jack stands at about ride height under the axle.

Having the extra stands was handy. If you don't have a smaller 2 ton pair, get some. If you don't have the 6 ton jacks, get those to get the Jeep higher in the air to give your self room to lower the axles.
07-21-2014 06:25 PM
H3br3whamm3r81 Got it! That's what I was thinking but for some reason, I was doubting myself. So, for suspenion bolts, I could drive her up the ramps. For springs and shocks, I need to jack up the body so the entire axle/ wheel pair is off the ground.

So, how would you do springs/ shocks/ all suspension bolts altogether? You have to unbolt control arms and track bars while doing the spring/shocks, right?

If what I'm thinking is right, then I should be using jack/ jackstands on the body, then replace the suspension bolts and springs/shocks while Jeep is on jackstands, but don't torque suspension bolts to spec until Jeep is on ground. Is that right? If that's right, it would be a waste to get ramps for this install, right?
07-21-2014 05:30 PM
NoGaBiker
Quote:
Originally Posted by H3br3whamm3r81 View Post
Cool, thanks guys. I might just go with the Rhino ramps then.

I've never done suspension work on a Jeep. From my understanding, to install springs, you need to lower the axle with a hydraulic jack underneath. I'm not going to have any problem doing that with the Jeep on ramps, right?
well, yeah, you sure are. The wheel can't lower if it's on a ramp. For springs you'll need to be on jackstands.
07-21-2014 02:25 PM
flyfishnevada Since I happened to see this thread, I thought I'd mention I changed out my bolts, lowers and TB's, when I installed my 2.5 TF lift. 1800 miles and my bushing were already scored. Only a couple of trips off road, maybe 30 miles total out of the 1800 and nothing serious. Just two tracks and dirt roads with a bit of rocks but pretty easy stuff.

Glad I changed them out! It sucked loosening, removing, tightening and re-torquing all those bolts but I had to loosen and re-torque anyway with the lift install. Now, I have some piece of mind that my bushings aren't being torn to shreds.
07-21-2014 02:10 PM
H3br3whamm3r81 Cool, thanks guys. I might just go with the Rhino ramps then.

I've never done suspension work on a Jeep. From my understanding, to install springs, you need to lower the axle with a hydraulic jack underneath. I'm not going to have any problem doing that with the Jeep on ramps, right?
07-21-2014 01:22 PM
NoGaBiker rhino ramps are what I've been using since 1995. Good stuff if you don't need a super high lift.
07-21-2014 11:47 AM
akc1955 I have used jack stands for years, but recently bought two sets of RhinoRamps ($45/set) and really love the convenience. They offer about 7" of lift and they're wide enough for stock Rubicon tires.

I use 4-low to make it easy to drive onto the ramps and they never slip on my driveway.

07-21-2014 07:53 AM
NoGaBiker I wouldn't worry about a Jeep falling off the ramps sideways. Next to impossible. Assuming you can get it to climb up on all four ramps at the same time, without skidding some or all of them across your floor, you will be good.

I had so much trouble with ramps skidding that I drilled two holes in my concrete floor, inserted screw-in anchors, and then used a 2x4 that I would lightly bolt into those anchors any time I wanted to use ramps. I'd just nose the ramps up against the 2x4 and they would finally stay put. Otherwise, I've not had good luck. They do work better on coarse-finish driveway concrete than on slicker garage floors.
07-21-2014 12:18 AM
H3br3whamm3r81 I was thinking about buying two pairs of ramps for the Jeep. Place each ramp in front of each tire, so each axle (pair of tires/wheels) ends up on top of a ramp once I drive up. That would give me more room to work underneath.

Question is, has anyone done this? I'm wondering if it's safe. I was thinking I can buy some 4x4s and stack them on each side of the ramp, in case a tire falls off the ramp, it won't send the entire Jeep down. Also, I could put chocks behind the tires while they're on the ramp.

I need to swap all four springs, all four shocks, and replace all the suspension bolts in a day or two. Just want to make this as easy as possible for me.

Here's what I was thinking of...supposedly adds 10" of space.

Amazon.com: Race Ramps RR-XT-2 67-Inch XT 2-Piece Race Ramp: Race Ramps: Automotive
07-20-2014 04:49 PM
SteedGun
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tnewcomb View Post
Just did this today. I know how to turn wrenches but do not work as a mechanic and I am OLD. Took me 3 hours with basic hand tools and a couple of breaks. All bolts looked good. LCA bushings were scarred from the bolts. 50K on the Jeep and have not had DW. Did not notice any difference after the change.
You will be sore for days. I am very glad mine are all done. I actually did the LCAs, TBs, and UCAs. I bought both bolt kits from Synergy. I did them all just to be sure. I am very glad I have a long breaker bar and torque wrench. This is real work for sure but really worth the time and effort.

If any of you end up doing the UCAs you might want to PM me as there are a few tricks to getting two of the bolts started. I can save you a lot of time.
07-20-2014 04:06 PM
Tnewcomb
She is done.

Just did this today. I know how to turn wrenches but do not work as a mechanic and I am OLD. Took me 3 hours with basic hand tools and a couple of breaks. All bolts looked good. LCA bushings were scarred from the bolts. 50K on the Jeep and have not had DW. Did not notice any difference after the change.
07-06-2014 04:29 PM
Black_and_Tan Read this entire thread over the long weekend. Lots of really good information, and I thank the contributors.

I am seriously thinking about changing tb bolts. I inquired at my dealer, and they refused to install any non-Mopar part.

I am a bit reluctant to tackle this on my own because I am not sure how to remove the stock bolts and then torque the new bolts to spec in the tight confines of the underside of the jeep. Perhaps the jackstand options will allow more leverage, but getting the proper tools into the tight areas looks daunting. Perhaps I am making this harder than it really is considering how many have successfully done this mod.

I think my first step will be to try and torque the stock bolts to spec. I suppose that if I can do that then I can tackle the bolt replacement.
06-27-2014 06:16 AM
TerraSol
Synergy Kit installed

Had the big Synergy Kit installed while doing the lift...

Attachment 1244458

all bolts are in
06-25-2014 07:51 AM
KPM171
Quote:
Originally Posted by bengen1 View Post
Ha...this thread is a sticky
Well color me embarrassed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tink5775 View Post
KPM171 - there has been a change in the Northridge kit since that was posted. They've added 2 14mm bolts and lock nuts to replace the Front Track Bar Frame Side bolt on 11 & 12 JKs.
Thanks for the heads up!
06-24-2014 07:33 AM
Tink5775 KPM171 - there has been a change in the Northridge kit since that was posted. They've added 2 14mm bolts and lock nuts to replace the Front Track Bar Frame Side bolt on 11 & 12 JKs.
06-23-2014 03:52 PM
bengen1
Quote:
Originally Posted by KPM171 View Post
Great write up! This should be a sticky.
Ha...this thread is a sticky
06-23-2014 03:34 PM
KPM171
Quote:
Originally Posted by westgd View Post
Hey all! I just bought my 2012 JKU 2 weeks ago, found this forum, and this was the first thread I read. Initially in this thread there was some confusion as to if the 2012's were affected (I was hoping not) but unfortunately they are. Needless to say it was kind of upsetting that for a first time jeep owner that I had to make a somewhat significant replacement like this. Oh well, as several people have posted, this is a good way to get to learn the underside of your jeep if you've never done something like this before.

Now keep in mind that I'm not much of a wrench turner. I'm more for mods that are easy and normally do not have the ability to really screw things up if I mess up so obviously this was a somewhat daunting task in my mind but I knew was something that I wanted to do. After a long yesterday, I successfully changed out all the bolts with no issues. So I guess what I'm saying is if I can do it then anyone can. Here is some info just to make it easier for anyone planning on doing this as well:

THE PROBLEM:

In a nutshell, the bolts mounting your front and rear track bars are a tiny bit smaller than the track bar holes so with this little movement and over time will basically stretch out the holes in the track bar which could potentially lead to further problems. This issue has been noted for a while and is not a TSB, Recall or a warranty issue with the dealership so this replacement is more of a proactive approach to avoid potential future issues.


BOLTS:

The two available options (That have been posted within this thread) for purchasing the replacement bolts online are:

EADOffroad.com Synergy Suspension Jeep JK F911 Hardware Kit

Included:
(8 each) 9/16-18 UNF x 4.0" long F911 bolts (LCAs)
(4 each) 9/16-18 UNF x 3.0" long F911 bolts (TBs)
(12 each) 9/16-18 UNF G9 Stover top lock nuts
(24 each) 9/16" Extra Thick G9 hardened flat washers

Northridge4x4.com Northridge4x4 Jeep Parts: JK Suspension Components

Included:
Grade 8 Jeep JK Hardware kit
(8 each) 9/16-18 x 4.0" long (LCAs)
(4 each) 9/16-18 x 3.0" long (TBs)
(12 each) 9/16-18 Stover top lock nuts
(24 each) 9/16" Extra Thick hardened flat washers


The difference between the two bolt packages is the EADoffroad package contains a higher grade bolt at a cost of about $20 more but the Northridge kit bolt grade is at recommended spec for this application so really either kit will work (I purchased the EADoffroad kit). You can go the option to purchase these bolts from another online vendor or your local hardware store but just make sure you're getting a minimum of grade 8 bolts. You may notice that you're getting bolts to replace your Lower Control Arms (LCAs) along with your Track bars (TBs), that's because these are actually suspension hardware upgrade kits. If you're really short on dime you could just buy hardware to replace the TB bolts since this is where the problem is but since you're going to be down there, might as well knock them all out. You can also replace your Upper Control Arm (UCA) bolts but I decided to wait on those since they aren't under the same stress as the TBs and LCAs.

Note: The 2012 front TB has a bearing joint on the frame side attachment point (Front Driver Side) that the 9/16-18 bolt, from either kit, will not fit through (I still tried anyway and no luck) so you have three options with this:
1) Buy an aftermarket TB to replace the stock TB which can accommodate the 9/16 bolts at each attachment point.
2) Continue using the stock bolt, just loosen it up and torque it to the proper level.
3) (This is what I did) Go to NAPA or ACE hardware (I found the correct size at both stores) and purchase a 14mm 3.0" Grade 10.9 bolt as a replacement. I purchased the bolt, 2 lock washers, 2 hardened flat washers, and a lock nut which all fit fine. I could have left out the 2 lock washers but figured what the hell.

Note: I don't recommend drilling it out, it kind of defeats the purpose of what you're doing plus it would just be a pain.

TOOLS:

These are the tools I used:

- 1/2" Torque wrench - Able to torque to at least 125 ft-lbs
- 22mm open ended wrench
- 21mm open ended wrench
- 1/2" Breaker Bar
- 21mm Deep socket
- 7/8" socket
- 13/16" socket
- I had a torque wrench but it was too big so I didn't even bother with it.

Some may say that you don't need all of this but I used every piece. When you're lying on your back with crap falling on your face and you don't have anyone helping it's easier to have an abundance of tools. One thing I do recommend is the 1/2" drive size on the torque wrench because with the limited space you have to work with, getting to the proper torque specs is a pain to reach.


INSTALLATION:

I did the bolt install with the Jeep all four wheels on the ground in my garage. Some people have used lifts / ramps but it seems the general consensus is to only replace these bolts with all four tires on the ground so that your vehicle is sitting at the proper ride height.

The first thing I did was remove the plastic covering under the front of the vehicle in order make access to everything underneath easier (Just 6 plastic tabs that you pop out to remove it). After you do this then you can use this photo as a reference for identifying each component: http://project-jk.com/gallery2/main....serialNumber=2

Basically all I did was pop out the old bolt and replaced it with new one; I had no fitting issues, each of the new bolts slid right in. There were a couple instances with the LCAs that I stuck a screwdriver into the mounting hole to align properly for the bolt to go in but that's really it. I installed the new bolts and just tightened them a little (Not all the way) and rocked the Jeep all around (Left-Right / Back- Forward) just to make sure everything settled right then I torqued each bolt to the proper specs:

TBs - 125ft-lbs
LCAs - 125fl-lbs

If you did the UCAs then:

Front UCAs - 75ft-lbs
Rear UCAs - 125ft-lbs

Trust me; doing this on your back with the Jeep on the ground is a pain to get the torque to the proper spec. I had to contort my body into all different positions to get the right leverage on some bolts and now my body is aching so be prepared. Some on this thread have recommended a ratchet strap so this may help you or if you have a buddy who can assist. Again, I did this by myself so it is doable solo.

One issue I did encounter is last night when I took the Jeep out for a test drive, I noticed that my steering wheel was no longer centered. Initial I kind of freaked out and thought that I had bent something while torqueing all the bolts but after some searching found that, short of bending a tie rod, the steering wheel getting knocked out of center is a common thing while messing with suspension components. No worries though, it took me just 5 minutes to fix by following this nice guide: Project-JK.com - Jeep JK Wrangler Resource » Basic Do-it-Yourself Jeep JK Wrangler Front End Alignment

NOTE: Please understand that I'm not a mechanic and I pulled some of info from this thread and throughout other forums so the following may be my or others opinions and please be gentle if I've misspoken. I want to also thank all the people who have contributed to this thread which allowed me to consolidate this info, THANKS!

That's pretty much it. Hope this helps and good luck!
Great write up! This should be a sticky.
06-13-2014 01:24 AM
mooney201
Quote:
Originally Posted by scipio337 View Post
Just wondering, how much did the dealer charge you for the install?
He estimated 1/2 hour, so even though it took them 3.5 hours, he charged me $57.
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