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Topic Review (Newest First)
09-24-2013 09:37 AM
cmaggi2
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03 TJX View Post

That is the party line but it's more about money. Oil vendor pays - car manufacturer recommends. There's no reason for thinking people to pay any attention to it.
Thats like saying I don't have to use BP fuel even though my Ford's gas cap recommends it. Crazy talk!
09-24-2013 09:28 AM
03 TJX
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgsholar View Post
Ok - but I don't get it, is it Chrysler that is certifying the oil, like in their labs? I would have thought Chrysler just published the specs, and an Oil mfg could decide to meet them or not.
That is the party line but it's more about money. Oil vendor pays - car manufacturer recommends. There's no reason for thinking people to pay any attention to it.
09-23-2013 09:52 AM
dgsholar
Quote:
Originally Posted by m998dna View Post
I agree... Chrysler had a falling-out with Exxon/Mobil during the bankruptcy. Then all of a sudden Mobil 1 didn't meet Chrysler's spec after they struck a deal with Pennzoil to supply the fleet. My 2009 SRT8 came with Mobil 1 as the factory fill - the oil fill tube cap said fill with Mobil 1. My 2010 SRT8 came with Pennzoil Platinum as the factory fill - the oil fill tube cap said fill with Mobil 1. Chrysler was so cheap and in dire straights, they wouldn't scrap the old Mobil 1 oil fill tube caps in inventory. I think this was more about bad blood and lack of Chrysler's ability to pay the outstanding payables, than Exxon/Mobil not able to meet some lofty engineering spec. .02
Ok - but I don't get it, is it Chrysler that is certifying the oil, like in their labs? I would have thought Chrysler just published the specs, and an Oil mfg could decide to meet them or not.
09-22-2013 07:21 PM
m998dna
Quote:
Originally Posted by Breitling View Post
Oil should meet SAE specs not Chrysler specs, differences between brands of same oil (5w30 synthetic for example) are very minimal. Otherwise it would be much larger issues for oil makers. Engines working only on specific brand(s) of oil is non-sense, Chrysler will never admit this.
I agree... Chrysler had a falling-out with Exxon/Mobil during the bankruptcy. Then all of a sudden Mobil 1 didn't meet Chrysler's spec after they struck a deal with Pennzoil to supply the fleet. My 2009 SRT8 came with Mobil 1 as the factory fill - the oil fill tube cap said fill with Mobil 1. My 2010 SRT8 came with Pennzoil Platinum as the factory fill - the oil fill tube cap said fill with Mobil 1.

Chrysler was so cheap and in dire straights, they wouldn't scrap the old Mobil 1 oil fill tube caps in inventory.

I think this was more about bad blood and lack of Chrysler's ability to pay the outstanding payables, than Exxon/Mobil not able to meet some lofty engineering spec.

.02
09-22-2013 06:53 PM
Breitling
Quote:
Originally Posted by TOK View Post
Mobil oils not meeting Chrysler specs was because of some kind of legal mumbo jumbo in the certification between the two of them, not any shortcoming with the oil. That may have even been covered elsewhere in this thread.
Oil should meet SAE specs not Chrysler specs, differences between brands of same oil (5w30 synthetic for example) are very minimal. Otherwise it would be much larger issues for oil makers. Engines working only on specific brand(s) of oil is non-sense, Chrysler will never admit this.
09-22-2013 04:43 PM
TOK Mobil oils not meeting Chrysler specs was because of some kind of legal mumbo jumbo in the certification between the two of them, not any shortcoming with the oil. That may have even been covered elsewhere in this thread.
09-22-2013 04:18 PM
dgsholar Recently I was looking at oil for my first oil change, ' 14 JKU Rubicon. With a lifetime warranty, I thought it important to follow Jeep manual on oil. Was amazed to find that the 7.5 gallons of Castrol GTX I had on hand does note meet Chrysler specs (FORD yes, Chrysler no). Castrol Edge does, but not regular 5w20. Also could not find where basic Mobil 1 did either. I keep proof of oil change,use the correct viscosity and want there to be no question on warranty when a claim comes up.

Any way - all oil is not equal and it seems Mercedes....er, Fiat.....ER, Chrysler has some tight standards that many oil producers/refiners don't meet.
09-22-2013 02:36 PM
Breitling
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmr40 View Post
If you are changing synthetic at less than 10,000 miles you are wasting money, and not taking advantage of its main advantage. I buy Mobil 1 in 5 qt. bottles at Walmart for $25. Conventional oil is $16/5 qts. I change filters @ 5000 miles, oil and filter @ 10,000 miles. The synthetic works out cheaper if used the way it is meant to be used. Been doing this for years on multiple vehicles with no issues.


Even changing at 10,000 miles is conservative for synthetic. Lots of guys running 300,000 mile vehicles with 15,000 mile synthetic oil changes out there.

In changing oil most important is filter but not oil, oil could last longer but filter could get clogged causing bigger issues. So, no I wouldn't suggest to go beyond 5K on stock oil filter.
09-22-2013 01:24 PM
ADee1
Quote:
Originally Posted by jmr40 View Post
If you are changing synthetic at less than 10,000 miles you are wasting money, and not taking advantage of its main advantage. I buy Mobil 1 in 5 qt. bottles at Walmart for $25. Conventional oil is $16/5 qts. I change filters @ 5000 miles, oil and filter @ 10,000 miles. The synthetic works out cheaper if used the way it is meant to be used. Been doing this for years on multiple vehicles with no issues.


Even changing at 10,000 miles is conservative for synthetic. Lots of guys running 300,000 mile vehicles with 15,000 mile synthetic oil changes out there.
You are getting value from the oil but a good filter should last 10,000 miles too,. Especially a filter like a Mobil One filter, the gold colored Purolator filters and a several others. Filters do a better job if they have some use to them, a 5000 mile filter change is probably a waste. Lots of talk about it on the Bob is the oil guy site. But if you have a warranty it is a good idea to follow the owners manual for oil and filter changes.
09-22-2013 12:36 PM
jmr40 If you are changing synthetic at less than 10,000 miles you are wasting money, and not taking advantage of its main advantage. I buy Mobil 1 in 5 qt. bottles at Walmart for $25. Conventional oil is $16/5 qts. I change filters @ 5000 miles, oil and filter @ 10,000 miles. The synthetic works out cheaper if used the way it is meant to be used. Been doing this for years on multiple vehicles with no issues.


Even changing at 10,000 miles is conservative for synthetic. Lots of guys running 300,000 mile vehicles with 15,000 mile synthetic oil changes out there.
09-22-2013 08:54 AM
Breitling
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xena1 View Post
I use 5-30 and motor is much quieter!


Same, also not sure why they are using 5w20 on Wrangler while 5w30 suggested on same Pentastar engine installed every other car. My 2011 Grand Cherokee use to have 5w30 in manual.

So, my oil is Mobil 1 synthetic 5w30 from Costco, getting it when on sale.
09-21-2013 05:32 PM
Wranglerjoe79
Quote:
Originally Posted by WXman View Post
At least on the 3.6 JKs you get options. On my 2011 the owners manual specifically said 5W20 only and if you use something else the warranty may be voided. I've got that printed out and saved if somebody wants to see it. So it sounds like Chrysler is at least letting you have some flexibility now.

As far as the synthetic vs. conventional oil debate goes.. I've asked many times for somebody to break open two identical engines at 100,000 miles, one run on syn all it's life and the other run on conventional all it's life, to prove to us that syn does something magical and so far nobody has taken me up on this offer.

I've swapped engines, lots of them torn down to the crank and rebuilt, just lots of engine experience with multiple brands and models my entire life and I have never seen where synthetic oil does anything special. What I have seen is a lot of engines with 250,000 to 500,000 miles on them run on conventional oil the entire time.

You can waste money to "feel better" if you want and buy only synthetic. You can drain the oil at 1,000 miles even though it's still going to look like honey with all it's detergents remaining and throw money away. You can buy only Mobil 1, despite the fact that it meets fewer manufacturer specs than other cheaper oils, just because the forums say to. But please... don't try to convince others that they need to follow suit, because that's how internet B.S. spreads like cancer. The key is this: change the oil on a regular schedule and don't neglect the other fluids from bumper to bumper and you're vehicle will take care of you.
I don't have pics, but have rebuilt big blocks in the 90s for muscle cars and hot rods. I have seen motors torn apart after years and years of use using both conventional and synthetic. The amount of carbon buildup from using conventional oil was tremendous compared to synthetic. Alot more work to clean it up.

I've been using synthetic since.

Unless the quality of conventional oil has changed the last decade. Cause I haven't rebuilt a motor in years.
09-19-2013 08:46 AM
WXman At least on the 3.6 JKs you get options. On my 2011 the owners manual specifically said 5W20 only and if you use something else the warranty may be voided. I've got that printed out and saved if somebody wants to see it. So it sounds like Chrysler is at least letting you have some flexibility now.

As far as the synthetic vs. conventional oil debate goes.. I've asked many times for somebody to break open two identical engines at 100,000 miles, one run on syn all it's life and the other run on conventional all it's life, to prove to us that syn does something magical and so far nobody has taken me up on this offer.

I've swapped engines, lots of them torn down to the crank and rebuilt, just lots of engine experience with multiple brands and models my entire life and I have never seen where synthetic oil does anything special. What I have seen is a lot of engines with 250,000 to 500,000 miles on them run on conventional oil the entire time.

You can waste money to "feel better" if you want and buy only synthetic. You can drain the oil at 1,000 miles even though it's still going to look like honey with all it's detergents remaining and throw money away. You can buy only Mobil 1, despite the fact that it meets fewer manufacturer specs than other cheaper oils, just because the forums say to. But please... don't try to convince others that they need to follow suit, because that's how internet B.S. spreads like cancer. The key is this: change the oil on a regular schedule and don't neglect the other fluids from bumper to bumper and you're vehicle will take care of you.
09-19-2013 07:50 AM
ADee1 I sometimes read the Bob is the oil guy site, this seems like a similar heated threads there. I'd love to know why the 2012 calls for 5W30 and the 2013 and 2014 calls for 5W20. I think it was CAFE. Post #137 here nails it, if Chrysler says 5W30 is OK if 5W20 is not available then at least you can make your own decision of what is better, and not be locked into 5W20 if you don't want to use it. I just wouldn't want to give them an out on a warranty claim, but according to the OM running 5W30 can't give them an out if it meets the Fiat spec. I'd use 5W30 then.
09-19-2013 07:26 AM
WOODIII I have a 2013 JKU and have about 4500 miles on it so far...still no change oil notice on the dash. i have read in the manual that under no circumstances should i let it go over 10k. i have checked the oil three times so far and it seems to be holding at the correct level. I plan on using the same 5/20 Mobil 1 synthetic 15,000 mile oil that i use in my wife's 2012 durango.

The durango has the 5.7 liter motor and has just over 20k miles on it. i have hanges the oil twice with the oil mentioned above. that motor is using a quart of oil per @2500 miles. i have called the dealer and they say it is perfectly normal and that Chrysler has allowed a quart of oil usage per 1500 miles until the motor has about 75k on it and then a quart per 750 miles? is this real?

is anyone else having a condition like this with there penstars or others?
09-19-2013 06:12 AM
m998dna
Quote:
Originally Posted by rick92f View Post
I'm a BITOG guy and yes, I do send my oil out to Blackstone for analysis.
Pretty spot on with your commentary...

Let us know the results on your 2014 and using 0W-40 oil.

.
09-19-2013 01:00 AM
ChopperCharles My dealer gives me the first four oil and filter changes for free. So, it didn't cost me a dime.

Charles.
09-18-2013 05:29 PM
Miser
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopperCharles View Post
Pfft, this whole changing oil thing is new to me. I've been driving a 4-cylinder S-10 for the last 10 years, and I never "changed" the oil in it. I just kept adding more. So technically it's all been changed at some point. 200,000 miles and still running fine, but old and I don't trust it for long distances anymore.

Motorcycles get changed once a season, and they don't get that many miles either.

Charles.
What I would recommend to you is this. Change it know at 1,800 miles and go back with a good quality 5w20 conventional oil, I use Pennzoil, but there are other excellent brands out there. Run it out for 3,000 miles, by then your oil rings should be seated in, and then change over to a synthetic. I use 5w20 Pennzoil Platinum, but there are all kinds to choose from. Run your synthetic oil out too 5,000 mile oil change intervals and you are good to go.
I purchase my Mopar oil filter from my Dealer.
09-18-2013 05:08 PM
ChopperCharles Pfft, this whole changing oil thing is new to me. I've been driving a 4-cylinder S-10 for the last 10 years, and I never "changed" the oil in it. I just kept adding more. So technically it's all been changed at some point. 200,000 miles and still running fine, but old and I don't trust it for long distances anymore.

Motorcycles get changed once a season, and they don't get that many miles either.

Charles.
09-18-2013 04:18 PM
Old Dogger X2 ^^^^^^^^^^, plus if you change it before 5,000 miles and some will say 7,500, then you will be told that you are wasting our natural recourse's..........The world of change is becoming more hilarious all of the time.............
09-18-2013 03:55 PM
overblown
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChopperCharles View Post
So why does the dealer want me to wait until at least 5000 miles before I get my first oil change? I thought I was pushing it with 1800 miles on there. I mean, a new motorcycle is supposed to have the oil and filter changed at 500 and then either 1000 or 1500 depending. I had them do it anyways.

Charles.
Welcome to the new school of engine oil my brother. Are you willing to shed the old rituals of days gone by and embrace modern oil and manufacturing advances? If so, I welcome you to the new school. This won't be an easy journey. It is not for the low willed or faint hearted. This will test every fiber of your being. Your hands will shake as you try to resist reaching for that wrench, must........change........oil will be the mantra said over and over through gritted teeth. Resist my friend, resist!
09-18-2013 02:20 PM
ChopperCharles So why does the dealer want me to wait until at least 5000 miles before I get my first oil change? I thought I was pushing it with 1800 miles on there. I mean, a new motorcycle is supposed to have the oil and filter changed at 500 and then either 1000 or 1500 depending. I had them do it anyways.

Charles.
09-13-2013 05:38 PM
rick92f I'm a BITOG guy and yes, I do send my oil out to Blackstone for analysis.

My 2014 JK recommends 5W-20 but does not require it. Even in the owner's manual it is clearly stated that if 5W-20 is not readily available that an oil weight of 5W-30 meeting FIAT specs 9.55535 S-1 0r 9.55535 S3 may be used. The only fluid required in a JK is the use of ATF+4 in automatic transmissions. All other fluids are a recommendation (even the coolant but never mix different types). The oil filter change for 2014 was made to have one filter common to the Pentastar and VM Motori diesel used in the Grand Cherokee and Ram (go look at Allpar). I like the filter in my 2014 JK and it is as easy to change as the filter in my MINI.

Unrelated to my warranty or Chrysler's recommendation is another factor in my oil choice. VW used the same Pentastar in its version of the Town and Country called the Routan. VW calls for an oil that meets VW specs 502.00 and 505.00. Mobil 1 0W-40 meets the VW specification and if you go to the oil selector on Mobil's web page and ask what is called for in a 2012 Routan see what is recommended. Coincidentally, very few heads were replaced on Routans with Pentastars and reported oil consumption is less on 3.8 models using the VW recommended oil.

I use 0W-40 with a Mopar filter in my 2014 JK, 0W-40 in my Honda Element with a Filtech Honda OEM filter (with UOA showing less wear numbers over the 0W-20 I was using), and 0W-40 in my MINI Cooper (which is BMW approved) with a MINI/Purflux filter. All of them have a change interval of 5000 miles or 1 year, whichever comes first. All of my UOAs in the Honda and MINI showed nice wear numbers and a TBN which indicate that I could keep the oil in longer. The Jeep will be sampled in a few months.

Will 5W-20 kill your JK? No, and there will be no warranty issues. Is 5W-30 allowed? If it was specified for your year then yes, of course. After 2013? Yes. If it meets FIAT 9.55535 S1 or 9.55535 S2, then you are within warranty requirements. Are the clearances so tight that 0W-40 is too thick? No. According to VW and Mobil, 0W-40 is fine. Is 10W-30 okay? If you live where it doesn't freeze, you're fine. 10W-40? Same issue.

Its funny how we all obsess about which oil to run. Chrysler calls for 5W-20 in Hemis except the SRT where 0W-40 Mobil 1 was specified and now 5W-40 Pennzoil is called for with the FIAT regime in place. Chrysler assumes that the SRT models are going to be driven hard so a heavier oil weight with greater resistance to shear is called for.

Use what you want in your JK. If you're worried about what weight to use then you probably check your oil frequently and change it early or according to the OLM. In any case, you should be fine. I like synthetic, you might like dead dino juice. Run whatever you like. Outside of some strange, random anomaly, the only oil related failures I have personally seen have been due to never changing the oil or running out of it.
09-13-2013 02:21 PM
overblown Exactly RoadiJeff, now all we need is a couple more threads of someone asking if their duratracs will rub and we'll be all set for the week!
09-12-2013 09:36 AM
RoadiJeff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Dogger View Post
WOW, a old thread brought back from the grave!
This is great..........carry on..........
It had to be done since the forum was running low on the 2-3 new synthetic vs conventional, what weight oil to use, what brand, etc., oil threads per week that ask the same questions over and over again. Resurrecting an old oil thread counts the same as starting a new one.
09-12-2013 01:41 AM
LMT Rubi 2013 JKR here and whenever I take my JK to the dealer for oil change the work order reads 5-30. My service advisor has told me that they are putting in the correct oil and the work order needs to be updated with a new part number that will reflect the oil change as 5-20 as required for the 2013s.
09-12-2013 12:10 AM
ChopperCharles I read the first two pages. It's my experience that as long as you keep oil in it, and change it regularly, it doesn't matter one iota whether it's synthetic or regular.

In non-catalytic converter vehicles, I use Delvac or Shell Rotella T 15w30 diesel oil, because it provides superior protection against metal-to-metal contact, due to the much higher phosphorous and zinc additives. These two chemicals clog catalytic converters, and if you've got some miles and some blow-by, it'll clog that converter right up. I run this in all my motorcycles, and in my S-10 which has had the cat gutted. (Not on purpose, the insides just rusted out and it's a straight shot through now)

I get my first four oil changes for free, and she's got 1200 miles on her now, so I'm going to get the first oil and filter change done this weekend. Whatever they put in her is fine, but once i have to do my own changes (and she's got a bunch of miles on her), 10w30 is what I'll likely use.

Charles.
09-11-2013 09:49 PM
Old Dogger WOW, a old thread brought back from the grave!
This is great..........carry on..........
09-11-2013 09:41 PM
xxxxxxxxxxxxxzy Most think all 5-20 is thinner than all 5-30 which it is not. Some 5-20 is thicker than some 5-30. You need to look at the technical properties of the oil. Specifically HTHS is considered important. Then there's Kinematic Viscosity @ 40 C and 100 C, flashpoint, pour point, Noack volatility, Viscosity index, and TBN.

So 5-20 and 5-30 are simply rough guidelines. I'm using Amsoil 5-30 SS but have blended it with both Amsoil 0-20 and Amsoil 0-30 at times. If you off road or tow I suggest getting into the 3.2 HTHS @ 150C range ( high temperature high shear ) which a few 5-20's can handle ( Redline comes to mind ) If you're easy on the driving a HTHS between 2.6 and 2.8 should be fine ( think 5-20 ) and will give you slightly better gas mileage, but again you need to determine what the technical properties of the oil are.

I go one step further. I use an oil pan heater in the winter, and run my oil through an old Frantz bypass filter. The filter media is toilet paper, and man does it clean the oil ... and I like it on my bumper...so no advice it's in a bad spot. I know the risks and rewards (!)
09-11-2013 08:54 PM
GIWrangler
Quote:
Originally Posted by legitposter View Post
I use Pennzoil Platinum. Yes, 5w-20 is like water.

For those that hate on synthetic oil.. They're the same people that still watch over-the-air television and have land-line phones in their house. They probably read print media as well.

Newsflash: It's 2013.

Ignore them.
Amen!
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