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Topic Review (Newest First)
11-15-2013 10:31 PM
whitejks great lift, i have same one and it rides on road and offroad great..u get what u pay for and loks amazing no dout
10-07-2013 06:18 AM
03SVT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctorsti View Post

At $1800 dollars for the stage 3 kit that I will install I am literally $1000 dollars away from buying an AEV 3.5" lift and speed bumps.

Front Teraflex adjustable upper control arms are $280 a pair and brackets are $100.

Quite frankly right now if I am going to add $400 to the price of the lift it's going to be to install the rear Teraflex bolt on speed bumps and toss the extended cups and rubber bullet style bumps the kit includes.

I am just trying to think a little outside the box so I can disassemble the front end as few times as possible. Who knows if I would notice if it had drop brackets or not after the install and I'm sure it handles great with the stage 3 kit out of the box.

My first purchase post lift will likely be the Teraflex monster front track bar. I just want to see how far to the left the axle moves once installed to see if I am going to replace the stock bar. I think I've read it moves over like 1/4 inch and so long as the wheels have proper offset the 12.5" wide tires I plan on running should not rub.
Makes sense; I forgot you were getting the kit for such a good price. I would suggest getting the front track bar and putting it on with the lift. I think it will be needed and was on mine. The only thing I added besides the adjustable front track bar was new bolts for the control arms and the front and rear track bars. I installed those myself about a week after I had the lift due to my reading here about death wobble.
10-07-2013 04:41 AM
kjeeper10 I forget, are you having the dealer install this ?
This why you're choosing the Mopar lift ?
10-07-2013 04:37 AM
rdg04578 Looks good but what was the total cost for kit--and installation if you did not do it yourself?
10-06-2013 11:33 PM
MarcelOrtiz How were you able to install a basketball ring on too of your jeep? Nice idea
10-06-2013 10:53 PM
Doctorsti
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03SVT View Post
I get the advantage of the brackets; I don't get buying a stage 3 kit that is expensive as is and then adjusting it. It would be cheaper to price it together if you want to use the brackets so you don't pay for control arms you don't use. Just get the AEV lift and add the front speedbumps and fox shocks perhaps. Either way you can't go wrong.
At $1800 dollars for the stage 3 kit that I will install I am literally $1000 dollars away from buying an AEV 3.5" lift and speed bumps.

Front Teraflex adjustable upper control arms are $280 a pair and brackets are $100.

Quite frankly right now if I am going to add $400 to the price of the lift it's going to be to install the rear Teraflex bolt on speed bumps and toss the extended cups and rubber bullet style bumps the kit includes.

I am just trying to think a little outside the box so I can disassemble the front end as few times as possible. Who knows if I would notice if it had drop brackets or not after the install and I'm sure it handles great with the stage 3 kit out of the box.

My first purchase post lift will likely be the Teraflex monster front track bar. I just want to see how far to the left the axle moves once installed to see if I am going to replace the stock bar. I think I've read it moves over like 1/4 inch and so long as the wheels have proper offset the 12.5" wide tires I plan on running should not rub.
10-06-2013 10:27 PM
03SVT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctorsti View Post
http://www.aev-conversions.com/education/60

The part about control arms explains the effect of control arms that are angled on lifted vehicles changing the "instant centers" bu making the lower control arm push the front wheel away on the outboard side of a turn before that control arm achieves horizontal when weight is transferred forward. Can lead to more oversteer and unstable handling

It seems that both rancho and aev feel that at 3" or so lift the angle of the front control arms even if adjustable benefit from being adjusted to provide better handling and more anti-dive characteristics when braking or braking into a turn

I probably will just run it as mopar released it but I am trying to limit the number of times I buy things to have the best handling setup I can without breaking the bank too bad
I get the advantage of the brackets; I don't get buying a stage 3 kit that is expensive as is and then adjusting it. It would be cheaper to price it together if you want to use the brackets so you don't pay for control arms you don't use. Just get the AEV lift and add the front speedbumps and fox shocks perhaps. Either way you can't go wrong.
10-06-2013 10:03 PM
Doctorsti http://www.aev-conversions.com/education/60

The part about control arms explains the effect of control arms that are angled on lifted vehicles changing the "instant centers" bu making the lower control arm push the front wheel away on the outboard side of a turn before that control arm achieves horizontal when weight is transferred forward. Can lead to more oversteer and unstable handling

It seems that both rancho and aev feel that at 3" or so lift the angle of the front control arms even if adjustable benefit from being adjusted to provide better handling and more anti-dive characteristics when braking or braking into a turn


I probably will just run it as mopar released it but I am trying to limit the number of times I buy things to have the best handling setup I can without breaking the bank too bad
10-06-2013 08:39 PM
03SVT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctorsti View Post

yeah, so if the point of them is to get the control arms more parallel they should work with the fixed arm length lower's in the mopar kit but to keep caster the same I may need some Teraflex adjustable uppers... good excuse to add the last two control arms.
Why not just use the mopar kit as is; ride is great and off road capability is very good. What benefit would you get for the added cost and the lost ground clearance?
10-06-2013 07:24 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctorsti View Post
yeah, so if the point of them is to get the control arms more parallel they should work with the fixed arm length lower's in the mopar kit but to keep caster the same I may need some Teraflex adjustable uppers... good excuse to add the last two control arms.
Actually maybe ... You would have to run the same difference in length you have now between them.
Only concern ...... By doing so you would be pushing the axle forward a bit.
The fixed lowers are around 1/4 +/- longer in length. You want the bump stop to be in line with the coil perch or close to it.
Essentially you would be cheating wheelbase which may or may not be a problem.

Best advice ... Find someone who is running adjustables with drop brackets and see what they're running for lengths. HKrunner I believe is but haven't seen him around in awhile.
10-06-2013 07:12 PM
Doctorsti
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Yes they drop both the upper and lower at the frame, better ? Caster will be about the same but drivability improves because the arms run almost parallel to the ground- directing impact up into the springs and shocks. This is what a long arm does but you do sacrifice ground clearance

You run your stock arms but can run adjustable arms to fine tune and add strength.

Here's a quick video on road with the Rancho brackets. Good thing I did not mount the gopro there off road. I left the mount somewhere on the trail rofl Rancho drop brackets/Gopro - YouTube
yeah, so if the point of them is to get the control arms more parallel they should work with the fixed arm length lower's in the mopar kit but to keep caster the same I may need some Teraflex adjustable uppers... good excuse to add the last two control arms.
10-06-2013 07:08 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctorsti View Post
Geo correction brackets correct both the upper and lower front control arms, right? They are designed to be used with stock length control arms, right? Mopar kit comes with just replacement longer fixed length front lowers so if I just didn't use them and just used the stockers here along with the correction brackets would I be better off?
Yes they drop both the upper and lower at the frame, better ? Caster will be about the same but drivability improves because the arms run almost parallel to the ground- directing impact up into the springs and shocks. This is what a long arm does but you do sacrifice ground clearance

You run your stock arms but can run adjustable arms to fine tune and add strength.

Here's a quick video on road with the Rancho brackets. Good thing I did not mount the gopro there off road. I left the mount somewhere on the trail rofl http://youtu.be/Eb_YPKZAhFY
10-06-2013 07:00 PM
Doctorsti
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post
Roll center is the height of your track bars. The rear should have a axle bracket that addresses roll center,
The front CAN NOT be raised without raising the drag link as well. Not something done at lower lift heights.

The Mopar fixed arms, I am assuming are 23" or so in length, and will put caster in stock range.
The drop brackets work great.. you would have to run one or the other though. W/ the brackets caster is fixed using the upper arms. Installing with fixed longer lowers would screw with geometry.
Geo correction brackets correct both the upper and lower front control arms, right?

They are designed to be used with stock length control arms, right?

Mopar kit comes with just replacement longer fixed length front lowers so if I just didn't use them and just used the stockers here along with the correction brackets would I be better off?
10-06-2013 06:18 PM
Doctorsti
Quote:
Originally Posted by UhOhBadDog View Post
Been trying to figure out what employee pricing on this would be - any insight?
Fairly sure 1800 is the employee price and what I got it for.

For 1800 I feel it blows away the AEV 3.5 RS option and while far more expensive then going with the Rancho 3" sport lift with geo correction brackets and 9000's (~$1100 unless there are any crazy rebates) it includes a great reservoir shock, speedbumps up front and 6 control arms. I see no reason whatsoever for them to be adjustable considering the lift is specifically designed for JKU's. If I was going to be doing full front end or rear end replacements with all kinds of weld on brackets then all 8 adjustable arms would be important. I like the "no need to set it" to forget it option of having all 6 arms fixed length for my specific application.

I really hope this is a great handling suspension both on road (95%) and off road (5%) with the ability to run a nice aggressive 35" AT tire. I am so excited to get this installed and have watched the install video twice through today. I'll probably do that every day until I install it so I am wellllll versed on the procedure.
10-06-2013 02:35 PM
GoBig19
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoBig19 View Post

To do it right, you should run adjustable track bars. I run JKS. Also change out your bolts to 9/16" Grade 8.
Forget what I said, an adjustable track bar does not help with the roll-center.
10-06-2013 01:39 PM
03SVT
Quote:
Originally Posted by kjeeper10 View Post

Roll center is the height of your track bars. The rear should have a axle bracket that addresses roll center,
The front CAN NOT be raised without raising the drag link as well. Not something done at lower lift heights.

The Mopar fixed arms, I am assuming are 23" or so in length, and will put caster in stock range.
The drop brackets work great.. you would have to run one or the other though. W/ the brackets caster is fixed using the upper arms. Installing with fixed longer lowers would screw with geometry.
Agree; if you are going to use the aev brackets don't get this kit with fixed control arms; you don't want both so why pay from them in the mopar kit. With the kit; they are not needed.
10-06-2013 12:32 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctorsti View Post
one other thing. Can I or should I run geometry correction brackets from AEV or Rancho with the Mopar lift. Longer fixed lower control arms on the front but I think that only changes the caster to acceptable ranges and not the roll center. Is that right?
Roll center is the height of your track bars. The rear should have a axle bracket that addresses roll center,
The front CAN NOT be raised without raising the drag link as well. Not something done at lower lift heights.

The Mopar fixed arms, I am assuming are 23" or so in length, and will put caster in stock range.
The drop brackets work great.. you would have to run one or the other though. W/ the brackets caster is fixed using the upper arms. Installing with fixed longer lowers would screw with geometry.
10-06-2013 12:26 PM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctorsti View Post
I just went out and measured mine and even though it's a 10th Anniversary (should be 1/2 or so higher then standard) I only get 24.5 inches from ground to bottom of door. So this would suggest I will get 3.5 inches lift and that most folks get around 4". Does that sound accurate?
Has to do with weight of the jeep. Yes.... you will see less lift with the 10a, but parked next to a similar equipped "regular" rubi, the jeeps will be identical or close to each other in height.

Example

Stock 10a 25"
Reg rubi 24"

With 2.5 lift
Stock 10a 27.5 net 2.5"
Reg rubi 27.5 net 3.5"
10-06-2013 11:16 AM
GoBig19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctorsti View Post
one other thing.
Can I or should I run geometry correction brackets from AEV or Rancho with the Mopar lift. Longer fixed lower control arms on the front but I think that only changes the caster to acceptable ranges and not the roll center. Is that right?
To do it right, you should run adjustable track bars. I run JKS. Also change out your bolts to 9/16" Grade 8.
10-06-2013 11:07 AM
Doctorsti one other thing.
Can I or should I run geometry correction brackets from AEV or Rancho with the Mopar lift. Longer fixed lower control arms on the front but I think that only changes the caster to acceptable ranges and not the roll center. Is that right?
10-06-2013 09:03 AM
Doctorsti
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03SVT View Post
From the ground to the bottom of the door is exactly 28" (front and back door). It is a little high for my wife (5'4") and my kids are still young so I put them in it. Ace rock rails would be a plus but I prefer the look of just the stock rubicon rails. It hasn't been an issue overall.
I just went out and measured mine and even though it's a 10th Anniversary (should be 1/2 or so higher then standard) I only get 24.5 inches from ground to bottom of door. So this would suggest I will get 3.5 inches lift and that most folks get around 4". Does that sound accurate?
10-06-2013 08:54 AM
03SVT
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doctorsti View Post
I placed my order for this lift last night and I am super excited to get this thing bolted up.

Thanks for the ground to door opening step up height. My concern also was for my wife and small children and I am going to look into the MORE hide-a-step. I think the 10A rock rails will get in the way of that step so it's likely not going to work out, guess she will just have to reach a little higher!

Couple questions for the members who already have it installed:

1. How many installed an adjustable front track bar (teraflex monster)?
2. How was cutting the bump stop tube? Any tips/tricks?
3. Anyone have trouble with the passenger side shock bolt and does the Mopar kit come with an extra or should I prepare ahead of time with a new one.
1. Adjustable track bar was installed on mine (purchased separately)
2. Don't know, the dealer installed mine but there are YouTube videos from teraflex available
3. Not sure on this one
10-06-2013 08:34 AM
Doctorsti I placed my order for this lift last night and I am super excited to get this thing bolted up.

Thanks for the ground to door opening step up height. My concern also was for my wife and small children and I am going to look into the MORE hide-a-step. I think the 10A rock rails will get in the way of that step so it's likely not going to work out, guess she will just have to reach a little higher!

Couple questions for the members who already have it installed:

1. How many installed an adjustable front track bar (teraflex monster)?
2. How was cutting the bump stop tube? Any tips/tricks?
3. Anyone have trouble with the passenger side shock bolt and does the Mopar kit come with an extra or should I prepare ahead of time with a new one.
10-06-2013 07:22 AM
GoBig19
Quote:
Originally Posted by frymark View Post

I just went to my local 4x4 shop and asked them for the the same lift that comes in the mopar box. For the price that guy paid for the installation and lift, I got installation, lift, tire carrier, new hood latches, AEV computer to compesate for the larger tires and 35" tires. And yes that included the Fox shocks.
Wow...you got a deal! Do you have any pics of your suspension setup?
10-05-2013 09:53 PM
X_Arrow
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03SVT View Post
From the ground to the bottom of the door is exactly 28" (front and back door). It is a little high for my wife (5'4") and my kids are still young so I put them in it. Ace rock rails would be a plus but I prefer the look of just the stock rubicon rails. It hasn't been an issue overall.
Awesome! Thanks.
10-05-2013 09:16 PM
03SVT
Quote:
Originally Posted by X_Arrow View Post

Do you know what the step in height is? I am still thinking this is the way I want to go but my concern now is if my younger kid and wife will have issues getting in an out. Thanks in advance.
From the ground to the bottom of the door is exactly 28" (front and back door). It is a little high for my wife (5'4") and my kids are still young so I put them in it. Ace rock rails would be a plus but I prefer the look of just the stock rubicon rails. It hasn't been an issue overall.
10-05-2013 09:08 PM
X_Arrow
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03SVT View Post
I doubt much; which is why I got this kit. I don't want it to sag when I get relatively light bumpers like the x package. if I sit on the front bumper it doesn't even more (190 lbs). but either way you should be fine in any normal garage. I only had an inch of clearance between my jeep the the door and have had no issues even with an almost empty tank.
Do you know what the step in height is? I am still thinking this is the way I want to go but my concern now is if my younger kid and wife will have issues getting in an out. Thanks in advance.
09-27-2013 12:46 AM
kjeeper10
Quote:
Originally Posted by 03SVT View Post
debatable; my dealer said no because it is a Mopar kit but only time will tell. I did get it in writing but there is a lot of fine print
"Fine print"
Warranty meaning parts of the lift are covered. No different then installing a aftermarket lift. If something breaks on the jeep. Then proved it was caused by the lift, jeep won't cover it.

Dealers like to tell people their lift won't affect warranty. Reason to sell it to you, and in most cases. at a premium.
09-26-2013 11:32 PM
03SVT
Quote:
Originally Posted by X_Arrow View Post

Thanks. I ordered the x package so maybe the steel bumpers will make it squat down a little too.
I doubt much; which is why I got this kit. I don't want it to sag when I get relatively light bumpers like the x package. if I sit on the front bumper it doesn't even more (190 lbs). but either way you should be fine in any normal garage. I only had an inch of clearance between my jeep the the door and have had no issues even with an almost empty tank.
09-26-2013 11:30 PM
03SVT
Quote:
Originally Posted by moebelikejeep View Post
Does this kit void your warranty.
debatable; my dealer said no because it is a Mopar kit but only time will tell. I did get it in writing but there is a lot of fine print
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