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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-18-2013 04:40 PM
OverkillYJ Also, the 8.8 tubes are 1/4'' thicker. I welded mine to the diff housing for even more strength.
05-18-2013 03:27 PM
2xs
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmeier View Post
I get that the 8.8 is stronger. But of you break a shaft your still screwed unless you add the c clip eliminator kit.
If you get one with disc brakes you can limp it home alot easier then most alternatives....
The rotor/caliper WILL hold the wheel in until you can limp to a repair spot, same method as what happens wit breaking an axle with eliminators, only difference is eliminators will save you some brake wear....

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmeier View Post
Why does everyone recommend an 8.8 over a Dana 44? Calipers or no caliper when that shaft breaks it is coming out. The break caliper will break with it if you try to wheel. The Dana 44 breaks you can still wheel.
Regardless, you dont want to wheel with a broken axle, you will get metal crud in bearings (they never break clenly, and floping around creates carnage) and possibly get stuck in an even worse place, better to limp and repair then wheel and seize up your whole diff....
05-18-2013 01:49 PM
YJ fanatic
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeinajeep View Post
The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
-------------------------------
COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500]
That's the reason. You will be less likely to break it in the first place. And if you are still scared of breaking the 8.8, get a c-clip eliminator/chromoly kit for like $500. It'd be like twice as strong as a D44. Well, that's a little exaggerated, but not much..
05-18-2013 01:47 PM
rmeier I get that the 8.8 is stronger. But of you break a shaft your still screwed unless you add the c clip eliminator kit.
05-18-2013 01:36 PM
joeinajeep The axle shaft strength tested by Warn Ind:
F8.8= 6,500 (lb. ft.)
D44= 4,600-5,000 (lb. ft.)
D35C= 4,000-4,300 (lb. ft.)
-------------------------------
COT: Continuous output torque rating
MOT: Maximum output torque rating

(Numbers from January edition of Fourwheeler, page 60.)
Dana 35 rear axle COT: 870 MOT: 3480
Dana 44 rear axle COT: 1100 MOT: 4460
Ford 8.8 28spline COT: 1250 MOT: 4600
Ford 8.8 31spline COT: 1360 MOT: 5100
Dana60 semifloat COT: 1500 MOT: 5500]
05-18-2013 01:19 PM
rmeier Why does everyone recommend an 8.8 over a Dana 44? Calipers or no caliper when that shaft breaks it is coming out. The break caliper will break with it if you try to wheel. The Dana 44 breaks you can still wheel.
05-17-2013 04:58 PM
AZ WRANGLER I just did a swap using Waggy 44's out of an '84. Simple swap, I have a write up on it here. I did have to regear them though...
05-17-2013 11:41 AM
OverkillYJ No way should you go with the CV shaft unless you have to. They are much weaker and prone to failure. The only way you do with that is if you have no choice because of how high you are lifted, not because the flange is 2" to the side. One thing I have heard of people doing is putting a spacer on one side to center the flange more, but I did not find it necessary for me. If in budget go with a 1350 SYE, driveshaft, and flangeyoke. The 1350 can handle the steeper angles if you are lifted without failure, and you can get rid of the vibes. That is the same setup Ibuildembig likes to use on his SOA's. After I kill my 3rd CV shaft I will be going that route as well. These CV shafts just dont take the abuse and hate water/mud.
05-17-2013 10:53 AM
Siffo3012 Jeep Jedi has a good write up on the 8.8 exchange. I know, because I followed it when I did mine.

You're going to want a constant velocity driveshaft for the SYE and 8.8 especially since the 8.8 is a center pumpkin driveshaft, so the driveshaft line will be offset.

Use two passenger side caliper lines for the rubber hoses from caliper to hard lines. Then you'll need to run your own hard lines from the main. Keep the bleeder valve from your D35 you'll use it on the 8.8.

Most write ups I read before doing my swap said no proportion inch valve necessary... Good luck.

Definitely get an upgraded diff cover. MORE offroad has a great selection of awesome diff covers for the 8.8 and also brand new e-brake lines adapted for the YJ. You'll want that.
05-17-2013 10:39 AM
rykemc 95 First year of disc brakes on the explorer
05-17-2013 08:14 AM
YJ fanatic
Quote:
Originally Posted by OverkillYJ View Post
I think 95+96 were drum brakes though.
When I got my axle, I looked at a 96 and a 97. Both had discs, but the 97 had less miles and was cleaner, so I got that one. So at least some 96's had discs.
05-17-2013 07:03 AM
OverkillYJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by rykemc View Post
It is actually 95 up on the explorer. 95 to 01 on the 4dr sedan. Up to 02 on the two door (these were only offered in 3.73 or 4.10 I believe. Will need to check my interchange at work to varify though)
I think 95+96 were drum brakes though.
05-16-2013 11:17 PM
rykemc It is actually 95 up on the explorer. 95 to 01 on the 4dr sedan. Up to 02 on the two door (these were only offered in 3.73 or 4.10 I believe. Will need to check my interchange at work to varify though)
05-16-2013 10:54 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmeier View Post
What are some other alternative options out there? Like throwing 3/4 ton axles from an old truck with gearing closer to 4:88? I would like better gearing. And I'd rather not spend money on new gears. Other than the 8.8 and Dana 44s what's out there? I'm not opposed to anything just researching.
I believe there are some waggy 44s out there that come with 4.56 gearing from the factory
05-16-2013 09:21 PM
rmeier What are some other alternative options out there? Like throwing 3/4 ton axles from an old truck with gearing closer to 4:88? I would like better gearing. And I'd rather not spend money on new gears. Other than the 8.8 and Dana 44s what's out there? I'm not opposed to anything just researching.
05-16-2013 12:42 PM
OverkillYJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmeier View Post
Now going to disc brakes will I be able to use current brake lines? Or will I have to run a new line from the MC? I have stainless steel brake lines and the rest is stock.
The only place you might need to replace anything is the rubber line between the axle and body if you are lifting it. Other than that all of the brake lines are fine.

Now the proportioning valve should be replaced to one that is setup for front and rear disk brakes. You can run with the stock one, but you will burn up your rear brakes faster since your stock P Valve is used to applying more pressure for drum brakes.
05-16-2013 12:33 PM
joeinajeep Check out eastcoastgearsupply.com in their 'axle swap' section.
05-16-2013 12:25 PM
rmeier Now going to disc brakes will I be able to use current brake lines? Or will I have to run a new line from the MC? I have stainless steel brake lines and the rest is stock.
05-16-2013 12:05 PM
OverkillYJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmeier View Post
So what can I find a 8.8 rear axle with 4:10 gearing in? If I had to pull one from a junk yard what are the best makes models and years to go with? Also will I have to change the rear drive shaft or the u joints? I am going to be installing a SYE kit with a cv style drive shaft.
You want one from a 97 or later explorer since they have disk brakes. For 4.10 gears you will need either a sport, or an Explorer with the Tow Package. You will need a flange yoke for the 8.8. Buy one and send it to whoever is making the shaft for you and they should put that on at no charge. If you dont plan on locking the rear then make sure to get one with limited slip. Do not go through the trouble and drop in an open diff unless you are going to lock it. You should only pay about $200 if you pull the axle yourself.
05-16-2013 12:05 PM
Cons_Table
Quote:
Originally Posted by rmeier View Post
So what can I find a 8.8 rear axle with 4:10 gearing in? If I had to pull one from a junk yard what are the best makes models and years to go with? Also will I have to change the rear drive shaft or the u joints? I am going to be installing a SYE kit with a cv style drive shaft.
97+ Exploder or Mountaineer
05-16-2013 11:58 AM
rmeier So what can I find a 8.8 rear axle with 4:10 gearing in? If I had to pull one from a junk yard what are the best makes models and years to go with? Also will I have to change the rear drive shaft or the u joints? I am going to be installing a SYE kit with a cv style drive shaft.
05-15-2013 07:33 PM
bajonesy77 After a quick google search to comfirm what I was thinking, the chief has wide track axles under it 65" wide(note the fender flares) In 82 it very well could have the axle disconnect on the front just like the yj dana 30. Also it could have a amc20 in the rear and if it had quadratec the rear axle pumpkin will be offset.
05-15-2013 06:58 PM
2xs
Quote:
Originally Posted by bajonesy77 View Post
Those axles are going to be wider than your stock axles. Wagoneer axles are the closest to the same width.
I believe the Cherokee Chief IS a Wagoneer....

05-15-2013 06:39 PM
Cashcrazy I added rear disc on the d44. The 8.8 upgrade had not took off at that point or I would have probably ran the 8.8.
05-15-2013 06:29 PM
upin1212
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95YamJam View Post
A disc brake 8.8 has built in axle keepers. It's called calipers....
True. I have rear disc on mine.
05-15-2013 03:57 PM
OverkillYJ
Quote:
Originally Posted by 95YamJam View Post
A disc brake 8.8 has built in axle keepers. It's called calipers....
And to upgrade to an 8.8 and not have the patience to get one with disk brakes makes no sense.
05-15-2013 03:42 PM
95YamJam A disc brake 8.8 has built in axle keepers. It's called calipers....
05-15-2013 11:05 AM
OverkillYJ an 8.8 is stronger. just get that
05-15-2013 09:11 AM
Cashcrazy I ran a wagoner d44 on the rear of my CJ7. It will fit, but its going to be wider. You need to get the spring perch width correct and welded by someone who knows what they are doing. I have seen the spring perch welds break when the welds were poor. When setting the perches you must also consider the pinion angle. I can't remember the angle where the oil starts to have trouble getting to the pinion bearing, but that should be easy to find on google. You can tilt the pinion up a little so your ujoints are at less of an angle if you are lifted. The only other thing I can think of is to make sure your ujoints are the same size as the d44 yoke. I ran a custom drive shaft so it was not an issue for me. Overall it's an easy swap. I installed a Scout d44 in the front and that was a different story. Good luck and take pictures.
05-15-2013 08:45 AM
rmeier I understand they will be almost 5 inches wider on each side. I can deal with that as I only off road my jeep, so I don't need to worry about being street legal. I just need to know if they will fit with some work. It is hard to find Dana 44s as it is. The ones I fond are already pulled and ready to go. I haven't looked at them and they can be the wrong thing. But I want to know everything before making a trip to look.
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