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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-24-2013 07:05 AM
flynhi4u Don't you just love it when something so simple winds up creating total chaos? U start out painting the frame and body mounts and now you are replacing the radiator and chasing leaks. I thought I was the only one who could have this type of thing happen to them.
A couple of years ago I dropped the rubber magneto drive couplings down inside our plane's motor reinstalling the magneto. I was able to fish one out but wound up pulling the motor so I could lift it up high enough to drop the oil pan. The rubber coupling half was stuck in the accessory case. I was 45 mins from running the plane when it happened. Needless to say it was a 2 day setback. But in the process I found a potentially major problem with the alternator mount and was able to fix it before failed. So hopefully when you find all the issues and fix them you will be better off than you were before. I tell myself crap like that to make myself feel better about being so unlucky at times LOL!
Good luck and please keep us updated on what you find.

Sam in IN
05-23-2013 10:12 PM
MLaborde When you do the rest of this job, please take a BUNCH of pictures of each step & do a complete write up on the H2O pump swap. There are already a couple of DIY's out there but, like any DIY job, there can be differences. The more pictures & the more DIY's, the better.
05-23-2013 03:47 PM
G-LOVE Got the water pump (with gasket), and new fan clutch.





and when I took off the old water pump, I went to remove the hard hose, and found a hole!!!



So, had to order a new metal hose, idler pulleys, and serpentine belt. Everything in tomorrow!

-Jim
05-20-2013 12:35 PM
G-LOVE
Quote:
Originally Posted by flflash View Post
You did'nt mention wether your new radiator came with a new cap or not if it did'nt put a new one one. Your old radiator cap should have vented pressure into the recovery tank long before it could build up enough to blow the top off your radiator tank. Unless you had a previousley cracked or damaged tank to begin with.
I ordered a new cap... just in case. After I removed the old water pump I found a that the metal inlet hose that attaches to the water pump was severely rusted, and had a hole in it (not 100% sure if I caused the hole when I removed the hose).

Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiserJeep View Post
I'm guessing you need a new water pump, gasket, and serpentine belt. The belt would have gotten damaged when it was forced to slide over the unmoving water pump pulley.


I also bought a new serpentine belt and idler pulleys.

Quote:
Originally Posted by flflash View Post
Glad you did'nt get hurt! I saw one of my techs go running across the shop with his skin hanging from his face one time when something very similar happened.
Yeah, I consider myself very lucky to have not been closer to the engine bay when she blew. I was literally walking around to front of the engine, to see what the noise was, when the radiator exploded.

I'll post pictures when I reinstall everything.
05-15-2013 06:58 PM
flflash You did'nt mention wether your new radiator came with a new cap or not if it did'nt put a new one one. Your old radiator cap should have vented pressure into the recovery tank long before it could build up enough to blow the top off your radiator tank. Unless you had a previousley cracked or damaged tank to begin with.
Glad you did'nt get hurt! I saw one of my techs go running across the shop with his skin hanging from his face one time when something very similar happened.
05-15-2013 05:42 PM
crisjacof
Quote:
Originally Posted by jerry bransford View Post
my bet is the water pump is leaking through its weep hole which indicates its seal has gone bad & the bearings aren't far behind.
x2
05-15-2013 04:56 PM
G-LOVE
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
My bet is the water pump is leaking through its weep hole which indicates its seal has gone bad & the bearings aren't far behind.
Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiserJeep View Post
I'm guessing you need a new water pump, gasket, and serpentine belt. The belt would have gotten damaged when it was forced to slide over the unmoving water pump pulley.
I bought a new water pump, and fan clutch (just to be on the safe side). The serpentine belt looks good. I researched water pump replacement, and the videos I watched, make me think it's pretty straight forward. I'll let you know how it goes.

-Jim
05-15-2013 01:15 PM
KaiserJeep When an engine overheats, it squeezes the sh!t out of the gaskets. But cast iron engines are not as bad as aluminum in this regard. I would re-torque the head gasket warm, and then let it cool off, and torque it cold. Anything else you fix if needed.

I'm guessing you need a new water pump, gasket, and serpentine belt. The belt would have gotten damaged when it was forced to slide over the unmoving water pump pulley.
05-15-2013 01:12 PM
Jerry Bransford My bet is the water pump is leaking through its weep hole which indicates its seal has gone bad & the bearings aren't far behind.
05-15-2013 12:35 PM
G-LOVE I started her, let her get hot (8 minutes). She was leaking the whole time. I let her cool down, and the leaking stopped. Without starting the engine, I opened the radiator cap, it started to leak again, so I must have broke the vacuum in the system. I hosed down the engine, and driveway.

When everything was dry I started the engine again to really see what was going on. I got under the engine to observed it. It looks like it's leaking from the front of the oil pan. It is also slowly dripping further back from the oil pan, but I think that's gravity pulling it back.

Could be the water pump (did I toast it when I stopped the fan from moving)

Could it be a freeze plug? ( are there any in the front of the engine?)

Could it be the head? ( could I do engine damage if I shut her down immediately after she over heated?)
05-15-2013 12:16 PM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-LOVE View Post
AND...

Houston, we have a problem!


It doesn't look like I'm leaking from anything I did. All the hoses, and thermostat/radiator look dry. It's leaking from the front of the engine.


Did I fry the water pump?
Any more specifics on where it's leaking from other than the front of the engine? If you could get a pic of exactly where it's leaking from that would help.
05-15-2013 12:01 PM
G-LOVE AND...



Houston, we have a problem!



It doesn't look like I'm leaking from anything I did. All the hoses, and thermostat/radiator look dry. It's leaking from the front of the engine.


Did I fry the water pump?
05-15-2013 08:58 AM
G-LOVE Well, the install went off without a hitch. I replaced one hose clamp (stock), thermostat, and thermostat housing.










Filled her up with fresh 50/50 HOAT Antifreeze/distilled water mix from Napa.
05-01-2013 12:13 PM
REEDracing94
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post

What factory? At $105 and a lifetime warranty, I would have to suspect that "factory" is not synonymous with "Mopar."
Sorry didn't mean factory as in Mopar, I meant factory style. Its a replacement from auto zone, regular $150
05-01-2013 11:58 AM
tangofox007
Quote:
Originally Posted by REEDracing94 View Post
I picked up a factory replacement radiator for $105 with a small discount. My factory one lasted that long so I trust the factory replacement. Plus it had a lifetime warranty if it does fail.
What factory? At $105 and a lifetime warranty, I would have to suspect that "factory" is not synonymous with "Mopar."
05-01-2013 11:46 AM
Jerry Bransford
Quote:
Originally Posted by kyjeep View Post
You drilled a hole in a new thermostat? Never heard of that one. I normally just let mine idle until it warms up enough for the t-stat to open.
Drilling a small hole in the flange of a thermostat is done to allow all the air trapped in the cooling system to escape. Many thermostats already come with a small vent hole for that purpose. The thermostat is installed so the vent hole is positioned at the top.
05-01-2013 11:43 AM
REEDracing94 My factory radiator recently started leaking ( 99 with 195k) . I picked up a factory replacement radiator for $105 with a small discount. My factory one lasted that long so I trust the factory replacement. Plus it had a lifetime warranty if it does fail.
05-01-2013 10:45 AM
Leslee
Griffen

What a Griffen rad is any body running one of these its a sponser of this site right?
04-30-2013 10:32 PM
kyjeep
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-LOVE View Post

Well, as I looked inside all the opening, and she looked very clean, and I saw nothing but shiny aluminum slits that made up the inside core.

I am going to install her this weekend. I have my new 195˚ thermostat (that I drilled a small air hole into to help bleed the system), cleaned up hardware, and two gallons of GO-5 HOAT antifreeze that will be mixed 50/50 with distilled water. I should be good to go! I'll post pictures of the install, and after.

-Jim
You drilled a hole in a new thermostat? Never heard of that one. I normally just let mine idle until it warms up enough for the t-stat to open.
04-30-2013 10:16 PM
iamthewalrus016 I just had this same problem happen to me... My radiator didn't explode quite like yours but it cracked something fierce. I decided to go with an OE radiator mostly because I have seen all aluminum radiators that had bad welds and would start leaking in sometimes months. Even the champion ones from California have been know to fail. My OE one though failed from what I think the previous owner using dexcool or tap water. A lot of brown sludge came out of my system when I pulled the radiator. I figure if the stock one lasted this long from 97 and over a 100k with poor maintenance it had to be the way to go. I am just hoping the updated radiators with the single row are better than the 2 row one that I had.
04-26-2013 01:20 PM
G-LOVE
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Pretty but wow you're right, that welding isn't very impressive. I wonder if they needed to coat the interior with epoxy to prevent leaks which reduces coolant capacity.
Well, as I looked inside all the opening, and she looked very clean, and I saw nothing but shiny aluminum slits that made up the inside core.

I am going to install her this weekend. I have my new 195˚ thermostat (that I drilled a small air hole into to help bleed the system), cleaned up hardware, and two gallons of GO-5 HOAT antifreeze that will be mixed 50/50 with distilled water. I should be good to go! I'll post pictures of the install, and after.

-Jim
04-26-2013 12:28 PM
Jerry Bransford Pretty but wow you're right, that welding isn't very impressive. I wonder if they needed to coat the interior with epoxy to prevent leaks which reduces coolant capacity.
04-26-2013 12:24 PM
G-LOVE Wow, I must say so far I am very impressed with what arrived today. It is a full aluminum radiator, with a 1.25 core, and brass drain.



It's made by SILLA (part# 2102AA)



Nicely packaged. I removed some styrofoam for the picture.



Shiny!



The welds are a little chunky, but as long as she doesn't leak, I'm good with that... and if she does leak, I have the lifetime guarantee!
04-20-2013 06:07 AM
G-LOVE Thanks for the replies, and points for thought. I have done quite a bit of searching, both online, and in person, at 4 automotive parts stores (Pep Boys, Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, and NAPA). The stores, all had shoddy looking thin core replacements.
I have decided to go with an all aluminum replacement from a seller on eBay (RADIATORS4LESS) that looks and sounds like it will the best option in my budget.

NEW 1 ROW ALL ALUMINUM RADIATOR 1987-2006 JEEP WRANGLER.

It's a single core (1.25") similar to stock, and is all aluminum. I have read about the possibility of poor construction (epoxy covering up poor welds), or that the "Lifetime Warranty" is just a marketing ploy. But, I have faith that this will work for me.
I will post pictures when it arrives, and after the install.

-Cheers,

Jim
04-18-2013 06:11 AM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
As it turns out, I had three original radiators fail in the past year. 1982 Mercedes 300D, 1988 Jeep Cherokee, 2003 Jeep Wrangler.

Can you tell which one delivered the least impressive service life? Only the Wrangler failed catastrophically; upper tank cracked.



There have been plenty of reports on this forum about relatively premature radiator failures on TJ's.
Playing devil's advocate for a second, say the stock radiators are as bad as you think they are. What would be a better substitute? I'll fully agree that there are better radiators to install, but for more than you'd pay for an OE one. If the cheap all metal radiators were as great as people think they are, you wouldn't see all of the threads about them only lasting a few years if that.

What amuses me is that people are fine replacing things like PS pump, water pump, suspension components, etc. when they wear out, but for some reason radiators should never fail... I'm very happy getting 13-14 years and over 200K miles out of a stock radiator, and there are many who agree; searching a bit will show that. You see many people who work on Jeeps for a living and claim they fix more cooling problems by replacing cheap after-market stuff with OE cooling equipment.

If you know of a better radiator at a better price point that outshines the OE radiator then please let us know; no one else seems to.
04-17-2013 10:33 PM
tangofox007
Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post
The TJ is an aging platform, so you should expect to see them fail eventually.
As it turns out, I had three original radiators fail in the past year. 1982 Mercedes 300D, 1988 Jeep Cherokee, 2003 Jeep Wrangler.

Can you tell which one delivered the least impressive service life? Only the Wrangler failed catastrophically; upper tank cracked.

Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post
How many OE radiators have you gone through? Or are you just basing this off what you read online?
There have been plenty of reports on this forum about relatively premature radiator failures on TJ's.
04-17-2013 03:05 PM
Redrider94
Quote:
Originally Posted by G-LOVE View Post
Alright, I know that I sometimes do things that aren't that bright. I'm telling the story in hopes that it could help someone else down the road.

I took off all my body mounts, so I could clean up the frame, repair one section of frame, and POR-15 everything before I put her back together. I had jacked up the passenger's side, and slipped a piece of 2x8 between the frame and body, so I didn't have to keep jacking the body up to work on her.

I didn't think to much of it, and when I pulled the Jeep out of the garage, I left her running, so she could heat up, and not rust out the muffler.
I then proceeded to remove the roll bar, so I could make a rust repair. About 5 minutes later the "Check Gauges" light came on... I looked at it, nothing struck my eye, and then I went back to the roll bar. a few minutes later...

BOOM

The radiator blew the hell up! I immediately shut the car off and cleaned up the mess. As the long time Jeep owners already guessed, I stopped the fan from working when I lifted the body off the frame, and then she over heated.

I didn't get hurt, and everything looks fine, I just hope I didn't do any long term damage, except for my wallet.

I removed the old radiator, and cleaned up the fan (painted with POR-15), and engine bay. Now to get another radiator.
Assuming your present radiator is ok other than the tank being broken why not take it to a good radiator shop and have it checked and cleaned and new tanks put on may wind up cheeper in the long run. Just my 2 cents.
04-17-2013 02:32 PM
geiman
Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
If OE radiators were all that good, they would not be cracking tanks left and right.
How many OE radiators have you gone through? Or are you just basing this off what you read online?

In my 98 TJ, I had over 13 years and 200K miles on the original radiator. In my 2004 TJ, I'm still running the original radiator with 131K+ miles on it.

Typically those who have issues are the ones who don't maintain the cooling system. I think over 13 years and 200K miles is doing very good for a radiator; it's certainly not going to last forever.

You'll see plenty of people with problems which makes it seem like an issue, but typically the radiators have served a very good life. The TJ is an aging platform, so you should expect to see them fail eventually. You see many more people running into issues with the cheap all aluminum stuff that is only a few years old if that.

I'll take an OE radiator over the cheapie radiator barn crap any day.
04-17-2013 02:29 PM
tangofox007
Quote:
Originally Posted by geiman View Post

OE seems to be the way to go for longevity.
If OE radiators were all that good, they would not be cracking tanks left and right.
04-17-2013 01:44 PM
Drk5ide
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drk5ide View Post
When my radiator broke I looked at some replacements. I found this one on amazon
I didn't get a chance to order it as I could not wait on it to be shipped.
Link fixed http://http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0073MG11A/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AB69UMROQ UAO8
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