|05-17-2013 08:21 AM|
I torque it hand tight. Its plastic, so basically it should be tightened to where plastic touches plastic but not actually torqued past that.
I think all plastics deteriorate inside vehicles over time so the concern over the oil cap is valid even if you torque it perfectly.
As with all things Chrysler... They just care that it survives warranty period.
|05-17-2013 07:52 AM|
|05-17-2013 07:50 AM|
|05-17-2013 06:28 AM|
|xzy||Just turn the cap until it firmly seats. I see no need to tighten beyond that. I recently bought a new cap to have as a spare. On the packaging it says use before 02/09/16. There must be a redesign coming with the 2017 model year.|
|05-17-2013 06:21 AM|
|05-17-2013 06:17 AM|
|05-17-2013 06:09 AM|
|GoldenSahara00||Quit being a pansy and just turn it on with your hand. It's not gona break.|
|05-17-2013 05:59 AM|
|dieselgiant||Man you really thinking really waaaayyyyy to much. The better questions to ask is will the darn thing even get to 100k without falling apart.|
|05-16-2013 01:35 PM|
|Lefty Diego||I have a similar cap on my 2003 Ford F250 and have not encountered any problems in 155k miles of oil changes.|
|05-16-2013 01:31 PM|
I use what I call "wrist torque". This means I put my hand on the HEAD of the ratchet and twist with my wrist ONLY until it stops.
It's basically "slightly more than hand tight".
Changed my oil in the JK about 6 times so far with no issues at all from doing that.
|05-16-2013 01:19 PM|
I also use torque wrenches, but mine need to be re-calibrated. That is a must for accuracy!
|05-16-2013 01:13 PM|
|05-16-2013 01:11 PM|
|05-16-2013 01:04 PM|
|michiganadam||I have driven over 300,000 miles on big rig trucks with the exact same style filter cap. The plastics hold up well. Dont worry about it.|
|05-16-2013 12:54 PM|
I am so fortunate to have somebody like SilverSport covering my back. It sounds like I owe you some more popcorn and a case of BUD! I OWE EVERYBODY AND JUST KEEP ON DIGGING A DEEPER HOLE OF POVERTY. Digging a hole deeper and deeper takes away what little strength that I have left. Just thinking about it makes my joints and muscles hurt. You all may also be old some day and FEEL THE PAIN!
PLEASE OBAMA, WON'T YOU TAKE CARE OF ME...................
|05-16-2013 12:47 PM|
|05-16-2013 12:19 PM|
|EricM||I actually use a torque wrench on mine. I too was worried about it breaking so I bought a spare cap just in case. I think it was about 20 bucks at the dealer.|
|05-16-2013 11:59 AM|
|05-16-2013 11:44 AM|
|05-16-2013 05:31 AM|
Chrysler should have a decal/sticker on the filter cap stating torque to 18 lbs.!
This is just another example of poor communications to their customers!
It's easy to say, well the Moron over tightened it, but Morons like myself need help with these issues. There maybe many more out there that walk among us..........
I guess if this becomes a ongoing issue, then it will be great for oil sales. After all our Oil Companies need more profits!!!!!!!!!!! This way Obama can say that our economy is growing, YA what a joke!
|05-16-2013 04:58 AM|
|05-16-2013 01:09 AM|
|ohioviper||Yep hand tight and win.|
|05-15-2013 11:20 PM|
|SilverSport||I don't see it as an issue.|
|05-15-2013 10:47 PM|
I don't have the 3.6, so I don't know the wall thickness of the oil canister container, but as far as torquing it down, as long as ppl go hand tight, it shouldn't be too much more than 18. It should stay less than 45 or so.
As far as cracking, if it is thick enough I wouldn't worry about it. On one hand metal seems better, but that can oxidize and make removal tough. A good plastic is what id say is ideal for this container. As I said above, someone will have to chime in on if the thickness is an appropriate one
|05-15-2013 10:39 PM|
3.6 oil filter housing, is it strong enough to survive?
This 3.6 housing is made of plastic, or fiberglass board, or what ever, but not metal. Will it survive?
Let's say hypothetically, that the average user will change their oil every 5000 miles. That equates to twenty (20) times the filter housing is twisted off and on in just 100,000 miles. The housing will experience ongoing expansion and contraction from temperature changes, plus internal oil pressure from the oil pump in high mode of approx. 65 psi.
The recommended torque on the cap is 18 pounds, but in the real world how many are really going to torque it? Is it not more likely that the torque spec will be a unknown to most so a ratchet, extension and socket will tighten it down. It's anybody guess as to how much torque some of these caps will see, 30, pounds maybe. When the factory recommends a torque spec, they normally have a built in safety factor, how much is that, well only they have the answer.
It's easy to say, well the engineering team has designed longevity in this housing. But how well is it designed is the question? I read on one of the other Forums, that a housing has currently split. This hopefully was just a one timer. Will there be more, that's anybody's guess!
What is your thoughts on it? Would you feel more comfortable with it if it was made of metal?
I understand that these engines are under warranty, but what good is the warranty if we are left stranded off road?
I realize with only one known failure, that this does not create a serious concern, but it is something to be aware of!