|09-03-2009 08:58 PM|
Those joints were holding for more than ten years last time I saw them.
My bumper welds were laid in the same way, & I'm not too worried about them failing.
I am however worried that in the event of a rear end collision, the square tube's seam weld might split if it's pressurized. This is why I drain it before hitting the road.
On the trail, I can't imagine that scuffing it on some rocks would cause that to happen, but I might just drain it for rock crawling as well. It only takes a minute or two to drain it from 130 psi.
I thought about mounting it up underneath the bed, but decided to kill two birds with one stone. I was growing tired of the bumperettes.
|09-03-2009 07:19 AM|
|morphious||yeah i suppose i see what u mean|
|09-03-2009 12:52 AM|
|09-03-2009 12:37 AM|
|morphious||yeah but buckshot even said he only uses it when he needs it and never runs around with it under pressure|
|09-03-2009 12:11 AM|
|flattietj||i put a 2 gallon air tank under my hood and run air tools as long as i want off of just my a/c compressor.....u oughta be able to fill a 1 gallon tank and that york will keep up....ther is plenty of space on that jeep to put a tank....under the hood.....in the trunk...up inside the frame.......just think about how many parts you are planning on breaking and then decide on how much volume u need.....im not a big fan of the bumper air tanks b/c mine regularly get beat on rocks and i would hate to see waht happened if it was still under pressure.|
|09-01-2009 10:16 PM|
Brad Kilby's site has a decoder for the York tag. IIRC you would want the 210 model.
It puts out the most volume due to it's greater displacement. The other ones will work well too though.
You will be pleased with it once it's done, I use mine all the time. Nice to fill up tires for six bicycles, without loosing the use of my arms for three days!
|09-01-2009 07:39 PM|
I just bought a york compressor today on my lunch break for $35. I'm not sure which model number it is though. It came with the clutch/pulley but its for the wrong belt (vbelt). I need to buy a replacement clutch/pulley that will work on my serpentine belt with 6 grooves. The only place I've seen those for sale on on kilby's website for $145. Anyway, I'm looking forward to this little project. I'm going to see if my friend can make a bracket. I'll still have to buy fittings and all the other stuff though.
I'll be using a becool radiator with electrical fan for cooling so I should be okay I think.
|07-25-2009 12:07 PM|
|Jerry Bransford||I just want to add one comment about the size of air fittings recommended for a high-volume compressor like the York F210. Stick with 3/8" fittings throughout and you'll be able to take advantage of its high CFM capacity, using 1/4" fittings just bottlenecks its full potential. That's how I made my York OBA system nine years ago and I'm glad I decided to use the bigger fittings and hoses throughout.|
|07-22-2009 06:54 PM|
Yes a Hayden or even cheaper ford Taurus E fan will help. The taurus has a two speed feature.
I grabbed a Sable fan last time I was at the junkyard, but it's too deep & wont fit between the water pump & radiator, so i may try to get the actual Taurus fan.
|07-22-2009 10:21 AM|
|morphious||yeah but its still going to get hot peaty quick but not so fast that its not going to get the job done u just have to keep it in the back of ur mind to keep an eye on it|
|07-21-2009 04:19 PM|
|07-21-2009 01:54 PM|
|YjMopower||ohhhhh o kay iam guessing those hayden electrical fans wont be able to help you out here?|
|07-20-2009 10:44 PM|
With no tank, you run it at whatever rpm the tool requires to function at peak capacity.
In other words, if you have an impact gun that will loosen your lugs at it's #4 setting & it's not loosening them you need to increase engine rpm's so the York can "keep up".
|07-20-2009 09:45 PM|
|07-19-2009 10:54 PM|
|YjMopower||wow 1500 seems like a lot, how would i adjust my idle so it could stay on at that rpm its fuel injected 4.0 .know the bigger the tank the higher the rpm has to be?|
|07-19-2009 10:41 PM|
catsknr all of my airtools have 1/4" airline fittings, & run just fine with them. The York can be throttled up to run my bluepoint 1/2" impact gun with no airtank. It'll do it at 1600 or 1700 engine RPM's.
The only reason I could think to use more airflow is to re-seat a tire bead.
I ended up welding 1/4" bungs into my bumper tank, & haven't tried re-seating a bead yet.
I will say that I have tried re-seating a bead with a ratchet strap around the circumference of the tire. It works like a charm!
I appreciate your advice & concern, but my setup is working pretty good like it is.
You setup looks pretty sweet, with all that yellow hose. I have a very limited budget, & went with mostly stuff I already had. That's not to say & wouldn't spend the $$$ if it made a huge difference though.
|07-19-2009 10:33 PM|
|07-19-2009 09:19 PM|
|YjMopower||wow thats just amazing now my question is do you eventually run out of air even if you have a big tank?like does the compressor acuatlly make air or just compress it. is there anyway you can get a constant air so you dont run out of air nomatter how many times you use it?|
|07-19-2009 12:30 PM|
Buckshot, looking at your pics, might I suggest you go to 1/2 inch line from your compressor to your tanks in order to get the full output of it, as the 1/4" out is only going to choke it down and when you do install a tank, your air tools will still run out of air faster than you would like and take twice as long to refill the tank.
As for using copper for cooling the air, that does work but I use a hydrolic line rated for 500psi ( I know, overkill) but it is also oil resistant, and run it to the other side of the engine bay. ( see pics) As for using an A/C condensor, that works good, except out here in the 100-120 degree heat, and you are sitting still, it blocks more airflow to the engine, and in my opinion, it will heat the airflow even more to the radiator.
Edit: The only Kilby parts I used are the bracket, and the fittings on the compressor. ( could of fabbed a bracket but would of taken to long for trial and error, and the fittings just give it a "professional" look.)
|07-16-2009 07:41 PM|
|05-25-2009 10:00 PM|
I was thinking of putting a 3/4" air hose on the rear tank, to help seat tire beads.
The stored air would flow to the tire faster.
So now, I will connect both tanks with 1/2" lines as well as a 1/2" line to the rear air chuck. I think they will be OK with 1/4" supply, as the amount stored between them should be enough for my needs. If not, I can turn up the hand throttle a little more.
The 1/4" copper line, & it's flare nut fittings were cheap enough.
Thanks for the advice! I have many years of experience with this stuff, but am too old to remember it all at once. I appreciate the memory jog.
|05-25-2009 01:08 PM|
"Air pressure loss in standard power tool hoses"
If you're planning to really use your 1/2" air impact you're wanting at least 8 CFM at 90 psi to let it really work, figuring about 10' of tank plumbing or more, then 10-20' of hose or more and you could be loosing 30psi by time you fire up the tool. Going to 1/2" id plastic and you have no loss for the most part. Just something to think about if you want your OBA to really rock. The second link is about spray guns but the info works for any air tool, quick disconnects can cost allot for their convince and their example lets you see how the losses add up.
Just wanted you to see where I'm coming from, I want to install mine just once and have the full capability that is possible from the system.
|05-25-2009 12:22 PM|
|dooder||another cool thread. better than hoodscoops.|
|05-25-2009 10:55 AM|
I have a couple of those plastic tube connectors, where you shove the end in the fitting, & it automatically locks into place. If I can just remember where I put 'em!
|05-25-2009 10:00 AM|
No problem, I was just thinking of the vibration that coil in the engine compartment is going to see anytime the engine is running, it will last a while, but you know it will break when you can least afford it too. Something I was thinking about for my OBA design as far as cooling out of the compressor is using an air condishioning evaporator coil from a car, they are fairly compact and should handle the pressure no problem.
I would either go with plastic or steel back to the tank, I would think either one would be cheaper and longer lasting than copper. Go with the largest size you can so that you don't impead your flow rate for using the tools, they live on CFM. I don't know if you can get steel tubing larger than 3/8" OD, plastic is easy to get in 1/2" ID, check Mcmaster. com.
|05-25-2009 09:05 AM|
If it does let go, I'll switch to steel.
I was gonna run a copper line to the rear tank, when I get it built.
I think I'll go with your suggestion for that, now that you mention "work hardening". I knew about this phenomenon, but didn't think about the effects of pressure/no-pressure cycling. It will surely fail at some point, though prolly not real soon.
I bet if I replaced the copper once a year, it would be OK.
Thanks for the heads-up!
|05-25-2009 08:41 AM|
|Lancem||Get rid of the copper tubing and go to steel, the copper will work harden from vibration and crack, better yet go to a short length of hydralic hose, 3500 psi burst strenght, flexable and inexpencive, available at TSC in the tractor section.|
|05-24-2009 07:27 AM|
I also bought another steering pump to get the dual pulley for my on-board welder.
Another thing to consider, is I still haven't acquired any air storage tanks & plan to have two. One from a big truck's air brake system, & a rectangular tube rear bumper (I'll build) will be the other.
The York I'm using, was the first one I got from the junkyard, off a Mercedes-Benz. It was $30.00
The other one, with extra steering box & all the brackets from a 1981 Cherokee was $75.00 + $40.00 shipping.
150 psi. safety valve was $20.00.
Although I already had a Square-D adjustable pressure switch, they cost about$50.00.
New gauge was $5.00
Both copper lines, the 5' one pictured, & the 10' one I bought for the rear tank (s) along with their flare nut fittings were about $30.00
Tee's, elbows, nipples, bushings, & couplings prolly ad up to another $30.00
New belt $10.00 I already had a check valve, but they cost about$20.00.
All the figures I listed add up to $260.00. This was my cost (so far), less the stuff I already had.
Yours may be more or less.
Either way, it's way less than the system you can buy that is already complete. That's a $1000.00 plus deal.
If you have the coin, & just hate walking around junkyards with a heavy toolbox, or figuring things out yourself then Brad Kilby offers such a kit.
It's a great kit, & works just as good, if not better (100% new components) than mine.
Good luck, you wont be disappointed when you have it finished!
|05-23-2009 11:47 PM|
|mikes05unlimited||how much do you think that cost you to build?|
|05-23-2009 09:16 PM|
Drunk folks, tend to drive their vehicles into the strangest places!
My heep is well on it's way, to becoming an excellent recovery vehicle!
If I can winch it there, I can get you back in action real quick!
I foresee cases of free beer in my future!!!
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