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Topic Review (Newest First)
10-05-2013 02:26 PM
megamike I should be wrapping it up in the next couple of weeks. I put together a more organized set of pictures when I'm done.
10-05-2013 08:59 AM
RufBoy Great build so far. Can't wait to see more.
10-05-2013 01:55 AM
megamike So after removing the old bedliner I had a bit of an elbow injury, so I took a break. It is a slow project right? Just finishing up by replacing the rot on the "new" tub. Needs reinforcing where the seats bolt on and where the seat belts bolt on. Using 1/4" steel for seat belt mounts to be safe. My buddy gave me floor panels and is welding them in for me, I'm unfortunately inexperienced in that department, but ready to self educate for future maintenance.

I'm currently selling off extra parts on craigslist to fund the new wheels and tires, and we should be painting and bedlining next week, so we're almost to the end

Here's a pic of my buddies handywork.

It's not done yet, still more welding and grinding, then por15 and bedlinng. The rust wasn't that bad but we figured we may as well use as much of the floor panels as we can rather than waste them. Going to use the seam sealer on it too before hand.
09-06-2013 02:31 PM
megamike Back from a long break on this project. All that's really left is body work, and we decided were going to roll on the paint instead, it seems to come out better that way from the forums that I've read.

Anyway, this might be common knowledge, but that aircraft paint remover turns a cheap spray on bedliner into butter.

This stuff is a miracle, aside from the stench. Luckily I'm in a paint room with great ventilation.
07-25-2013 12:57 AM
megamike And I'll update some pics next week, on sunday we're getting the broken bolts out of the new body. It has one spot of rust on the driver side that needs a plate welded in were the seatbelt attaches. Then we sand it down and were going bedliner underneath and interior. And my gf is painting it olive drab, rattle can style. She's good at making spray paint work. She's tried to teach me but I think it aggravates her that I can't do it... so I'm leaving it to her.

I also have both roll bars, what does everyone like better? I have the "family" roll bar, and the other one that doesn't protect the rear passengers. I'm gonna sell off whatever one I don't use, along with axles, body parts, computer, etc. Hoping to get a plow in return.

So which is the preferred roll bar?
07-25-2013 12:25 AM
Originally Posted by livenlearn View Post
Looking good. I grew up in NY and I don't miss the rust at all. It's great when you got the tools and a shop to work in.

This is so true, I get to use his shop for everything, oil changes on my vehicles take 5 minutes... even the little things become nothing when you have a lift.
07-23-2013 09:02 PM
livenlearn Looking good. I grew up in NY and I don't miss the rust at all. It's great when you got the tools and a shop to work in.

07-23-2013 10:39 AM
ChicoJeepy Nice. Keep on keeping on!
07-23-2013 12:13 AM
megamike Also, now that we moved where the engine mounts, I have about 1.25" of play on the front driveshaft, so it's not stuffed anymore. And from the front of the frame to the nut on the radiator fan measures .25" off of my bodies yj, so we are pretty damn close to where we are supposed to be.
07-23-2013 12:11 AM
megamike Well then, relocated the mounts and got a new skid plate. We are still wondering what happened here, but all is well. I measured my buddies' frame and my mounts were indeed about 1.25" too far forward. But they weren't far enough forward to be a 4.0, nobody has any idea what's up with this. The guy that sold me the frame helped me relocate the mounts and felt terrible about it. They don't look like someone else relocated them to fit a different engine at some point... but let's move on.

We got a new skid plate because mine was a little beat. It used to work but since the holes that mount to the frame had some play we couldn't get everything to stay straight to relocate the mounts. Turns out a guy 5 minutes a way had one for $75. I then traded my crappy skid plate for a light bar with lights with a dude on cl who desperately needed a skid plate because his was more rotted than my old floors.

So progress should come along now, I'm going to run break and fuel lines tomorrow, and order new brakes and rotors. After I'm finished I'm going to start a new thread that's less messy.
06-14-2013 02:44 PM
megamike Here is a picture of a piece of the old frame next to the new one. If I am lining it up correctly, it looks like the mounts would have to be moved back just a little bit, right? And is there any way to do this without relocating the mounts? We thought of drilling a hole in the frame so that we could use the "extra" plate that ours came with, rotate everything into position, and then make our own notch so that it would line up right, but I'm not sure if that's going to work. Mostly because the front drive shaft would likely be too long .

And yes, those mounts are on backwards, we thought we would give it a try to see if it would fit...

06-14-2013 02:38 PM
megamike UH OH...

Looks like a problem with the engine mounts on the frame. We new something was up at first but shrugged it off. Our mount had a piece between the mount and the frame. We noticed that the new frame had two bolt holes instead of the one hole that our extra plate had. So we took it off. Then the engine wouldn't line up. So I turned the mounts around 180 degrees and wha-du-ya-know, it fit right in with them backwards. Thought it would work but what do I know? Well the whole thing is crooked.

The only thing I can come up with is that our supposedly 4 cylinder frame is actually a 6 cylinder frame. So from my understanding, the frame is exactly the same but the mounts are in a slightly different location.

So if anyone knows exactly where I am supposed to weld the mounts on with measurements that would be awesome. And if anyone can direct me to a write up on cutting off the frame mounts and relocating them that would be cool, thanks.

Here is the extra piece on the mount that I was talking about, it was on the passenger side. Notice the piece of frame we cut off, it only has one bolt hole and a notch to keep the mount from spinning:

I know a lot of people like to do a 2.5 to 4.0 conversion, so I guess I'm just doing the opposite in this situation.
06-14-2013 10:44 AM
sinbob sweet build
06-13-2013 12:45 AM
megamike I am going to try really hard to remember my real camera tomorrow, I know how everyone loves pics

I hate to be that guy infesting a build with cell phone pics but, here I am.
06-13-2013 12:16 AM
06-12-2013 10:51 PM
megamike Well this feels like progress.

06-10-2013 03:36 PM
megamike And I forgot to mention, after getting the rear and tank on I prepped the engine and trans for removal, hopefully doing that tomorrow. Let me tell you, if you leave the frame and body connected, it is not easy getting the electrical snaked out of there. I'm so lucky I already planned to run new break a fuel lines.
06-10-2013 03:33 PM
megamike I went with the prothane, they look pretty decent. My bolts, bushings, and shackles finally came so I could resume the project. I've spent more time waiting for stuff than working so far...

The tank was hanging off of the jeep when I bought it. The sections that the tank skid plate bolt on were rotted so we had drilled holes in the body and made some homemade straps. In fact, it didn't even have the skid plate when I bought it, someone had used 2 wires and tied it up lol. So seeing it finally on properly is pretty comforting. It's nice to have the extra dead jeep around to pull things off of when I realize I need it, the skid plate being one of them.
05-29-2013 12:02 PM
megamike I'm trying to order new body mounts but I'm stuck between 2 brands, anyone have any advice? Prothane 1-113-BL Black 1" Lift Body Mount for YJ: Automotive


Daystar KJ04505BK Comfort Ride 1" Body Lift Kit : : Automotive

They both seem to be pretty complete, and are the same price. From forum lurking people say the prothane kit is the most complete. I noticed that neither of them state that they use grade 8 bolts...
05-28-2013 11:34 PM
megamike Me too

When we're finished the only spot that will have rust are the corners where the flat part meets the wheel well. It will be sanded and bondo before the paint job. There is a little rust on the floors of the new body as well, but the new floor panels fix that problem.

I will however be driving around in a rust free, green, red, and black jeep until I get around to painting it lol.
05-28-2013 11:22 PM
jk'n I was sitting in the post office parking lot and I saw a red YJ today in the best shape that I have ever seen. It was so nice...all I could do was stare at it until I couldn't see it any more as it drove away. I hope yours comes out as nice as that one!
05-28-2013 10:48 PM
megamike Thanks for the advice jk'n. I think I pretty much got every bolt out that needs to be out though. I'm just waiting on new bolts and bushings for leaf springs, and a set of new body mounts to come in the mail. In the end we'll have a little less than $1000 into this if everything goes back together smoothly. So around $2000 total and a lot of work to have a like new yj, not too bad.
05-26-2013 01:37 PM
Originally Posted by megamike View Post
yea that's what I keep reading, over and over again. How long have you been going with 1.75?
about 4 years......I have bent one of the mounting bolts...but other than that no problems
05-25-2013 10:24 AM
Originally Posted by megamike View Post
And I should also add another piece of advice to those who stumble on this thread. One of the bolts would not loosen up no matter what with the ball joint tool and an impact gun. We had multiple people stand on the springs while I got a breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe on it to get the bolt (with the nut off ofcourse) to turn just a bit. Once it was unfrozen the gun and ball joint tool forced it out, holding the trigger for like 2 minutes. Hope that helps, I don't see how it could have been any worse so it's always possible to get them out I think.
Some things that I have found helpful in this situation. If there are any exposed threads on a nut that I am going to break free from the bolt, before I begin torquing on it I run a thread restorer (looks like a nut) up the threads to clean them out of all rust and any paint that might have gotten on there. Once the threads are clear I'll begin torquing. I'll spray it with some breakaway lube before I get started. I always use six sided sockets when I know that the nut may be seized to the bolt. My dad, who was a master tool maker by trade, (bless his soul) would always tell me not to try and back the nut out all the way on the first attempt to remove it. When you do that, whatever gunk that is in the threads will gather on the side of the nut that faces the direction of travel while turning it. This gunk that gathers will bind the nut to the bolt and cause you to have to apply increasing torque as you continue and usually will result in breaking the bolt. Instead - move the nut until you have a substantial amount of torque to turn it. Spray more breakaway behind the nut and then turn the nut back in the direction of tightening. If you keep moving the nut back and forth a couple of things will happen. You will be breaking up the stuff that is binding the nut and you will also be carrying away the sludge as you spray more lubricant in. Eventually the nut will be almost finger loose where you have run it back and forth and only bind when you approach the threads that have not been cleared out yet. This method requires a certain amount of patience but if practiced, you will rarely break a bolt and you will usually end up with the pieces apart. It applies to bolts that are screwed into a fixed thread as in a tapped hole as well as stud bolts. I am in my fifties now and whenever I am trying to break loose a nut - as soon as I hear that snap as the nut moves for the first time, I know that I will be able to work the nut out from that point. It is getting that snap loose sound that I get anxiety about because in some cases you definitely don't want to break the bolt off especially if it is a stud bolt. Applying the amount of torque necessary to break it loose builds anxiety because in most cases the physical workout you get will cause your blood to get pumping and then anxiety comes into play when you don't know how much torque exactly will break the bolt or stud. You hope never to reach the point of breaking it but sometimes that happens and when it does you move to plan B.

One other thing that I learned just recently when I was trying to break a nut free on a bumper mount is to wear leather gloves when working in this circumstance. Not only does it protect your hands from bad cuts caused when by bashing it against the edge of something as the nut breaks free but, there is another problem that can cause real hurt that I was completely unaware of until this incident. What I wasn't aware of was the amount of potential energy that can be stored up in a torquing tool like a breaker bar. I was putting my whole body into the torque and when the nut let loose....the familiar loud snap....and then all of a sudden major pain....the kind that makes you afraid to look....happened upon my baby finger. I wasn't even gripping the handle tightly with my fingers but when the nut broke free, the energy stored in the metal of the breaker bar caused it to move in the direction of my fingers so swiftly that it split my baby finger open at the end of it. No stitches required and no broken bones but that finger was sore for a couple of weeks after. So be cautious when breaking a nut free about things like kickback of the tool itself as well as where your hand may end up if the nut suddenly breaks free.
05-25-2013 12:05 AM
megamike I should add that I can't say anything good about their service since I just ordered the stuff today. However, the guy I'm getting my parts from (the hobby re-builder), swears by this company and has been using them for a while. At this point I take all of his advice as if it were gold lol.

And I should also add another piece of advice to those who stumble on this thread. One of the bolts would not loosen up no matter what with the ball joint tool and an impact gun. We had multiple people stand on the springs while I got a breaker bar with a 4 foot pipe on it to get the bolt (with the nut off ofcourse) to turn just a bit. Once it was unfrozen the gun and ball joint tool forced it out, holding the trigger for like 2 minutes. Hope that helps, I don't see how it could have been any worse so it's always possible to get them out I think.
05-24-2013 11:54 PM
megamike and I used one of these along with an air impact gun to get the leaf spring bolts out, It takes a lot of patience.

05-24-2013 11:51 PM
megamike Oh I see, I use Jeep Parts & Jeep Accessories From The Jeep Parts Experts - Quadratec
05-24-2013 11:49 PM
Originally Posted by megamike View Post

So anyway, now that the hard part is over, next week we will start putting it back together as soon as the new body mounts, bushings, and bolts come in the mail (broke body mounts and leaf springs bolts, it was expected).
This hardware, not the body parts. I was wondering what your source was in case I start having to deal with suspension issues.
05-24-2013 11:43 PM
megamike If you are near albany county, new york, I can hook you up with the guy, he has soo much stuff. Get back to me quick, he's doing one of his annual scrap runs soon...
05-24-2013 11:27 PM
jk'n Where did you get the new hardware from?
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