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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-04-2013 08:37 AM
RubiGou Pulled the front drive shaft no vibes no more clicking!!
06-01-2013 10:31 AM
RubiGou Just put it in 4H to see if the noise stopped but it got worse. Loud clanking noise when in 4h, def front drive shaft!
05-30-2013 03:42 PM
RubiGou
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMTJEEP View Post
Take your front driveshaft to a shop and have them rebalance it. It shouldn't cost that much if the only thing that needs to be done to it is a rebalance and would be a whole lot cheaper than buying a new one.
Ok so that means I don't have to get the rear drive shaft anymore? I was thinking of taking the front shaft out and driving to see if the vibes still occur.
05-30-2013 02:22 PM
EMTJEEP Take your front driveshaft to a shop and have them rebalance it. It shouldn't cost that much if the only thing that needs to be done to it is a rebalance and would be a whole lot cheaper than buying a new one.
05-29-2013 10:37 PM
RubiGou Got a free diagnosis from Jeep dealer today and they said my front drive shaft isn't balanced and needs to be changed. I still want to get the Tom woods rear CV and uppe CA's but after getting an alignment today I'm hearing clicking noises from the front!!
05-28-2013 03:23 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiGou View Post
Ordering my CV shaft this weekend from Tom Woods. Should I get the 1310 series or the 1350?
Rubicons use 1330s....so as long the correct conversion u-joints are used, 1310 is fine for most people.
05-27-2013 11:07 PM
RubiGou
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
oops, I met Savvy Off-Road. check their prices first.

it'll take a few hours.

see here for setup:
What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - JeepForum.com

Ordering my CV shaft this weekend from Tom Woods. Should I get the 1310 series or the 1350?
05-26-2013 02:33 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiGou View Post
Ok so I'll def get upper and lower CA's and Tom Woods CV. I'll check the prices on Curries. I'm assuming I can remove the T case drop after I change everything? Also aprox how long is the entire job (both CAs, and CV)?
oops, I met Savvy Off-Road. check their prices first.

it'll take a few hours.

see here for setup:
What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - JeepForum.com
05-26-2013 02:26 PM
EMTJEEP
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiGou View Post
Ok so I'll def get upper and lower CA's and Tom Woods CV. I'll check the prices on Curries. I'm assuming I can remove the T case drop after I change everything? Also aprox how long is the entire job (both CAs, and CV)?
Yes, once you get your CV and arms you should be able to remove the TC drop and have no vibes. Swapping the arms and DS are only a couple bolts and take maybe an hour if you don't lube them up good enough. But adjusting the pinion angle and the arms may take a little time.
05-26-2013 01:39 PM
RubiGou Thanks for all the help btw I just want to do everything right
05-26-2013 01:38 PM
RubiGou
Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
Personally, I'd suggest something with Currie Johnny Joints on each end....like those from Savvy Off-Road, Clayton Off-Road or Currie. If you order through Currie, you may be able to get a forum discount...

You can set pinion angle with only the uppers. problem is this pushes the axle backward in the wheelwell, so the tires can rub on the rear fenderwell. Worse yet, this pushes the rear track bar into the gas tank mount on the frame, and pushes the diff into the gas tank itself. So while you can set pinion angle, you end up with major clearance problems. You need adjustable lowers so you can SHORTEN them...this results in rotating the axle about the hub center, instead of about the lower control arm bolts. That way when the axle cycles up, it doesn't hit anything.
Ok so I'll def get upper and lower CA's and Tom Woods CV. I'll check the prices on Curries. I'm assuming I can remove the T case drop after I change everything? Also aprox how long is the entire job (both CAs, and CV)?
05-26-2013 01:28 PM
AOR
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMTJEEP View Post
You need at minimum upper adjustable control arms when getting a CV shaft. I would say go with MC, better joints and have duroflex joints on both ends instead of RK that has one flex and bushing on the other for their lowers. And getting all new control rear/front upper/lowers is the best route to go.
If you ask RK they will sub in Monster joints instead of flex bushings. I have done this on many of my sales. Agree with you on all arms at once.
05-26-2013 01:17 PM
UnlimitedLJ04
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiGou View Post
Since I have the RK Kit should I stick with the RK control arms or is Meatvcloak a better choice?
Personally, I'd suggest something with Currie Johnny Joints on each end....like those from Savvy Off-Road, Clayton Off-Road or Currie. If you order through Currie, you may be able to get a forum discount...

Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiGou View Post
Do I need both upper and lower control arms?
You can set pinion angle with only the uppers. problem is this pushes the axle backward in the wheelwell, so the tires can rub on the rear fenderwell. Worse yet, this pushes the rear track bar into the gas tank mount on the frame, and pushes the diff into the gas tank itself. So while you can set pinion angle, you end up with major clearance problems. You need adjustable lowers so you can SHORTEN them...this results in rotating the axle about the hub center, instead of about the lower control arm bolts. That way when the axle cycles up, it doesn't hit anything.
05-26-2013 12:13 PM
RubiGou
Quote:
Originally Posted by Trendsetter75 View Post
Your Jeep looks great get rid of the TC drop and get a CV DS and rear upper control arms and lower control arms.
Thanks!! When I finally get the CV DS I can remove the TC drop? I was looking at getting Meatcloak upper/lower CA's are those good enough. Keep in mind there's a 3% chance my jeep will be seeing a trail. I do want to be ready just in case.
05-26-2013 12:11 PM
RubiGou
Quote:
Originally Posted by T2000J View Post
I'd pull the rear shaft till you get a cv shaft
By pulling the rear shaft what are the pros and co ns. Do remember I have to pay someone to do all of this. Is it time consuming?
05-26-2013 12:10 PM
RubiGou
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheDesertOutlaw View Post
If it was me, I would lower the Transfer case a little more with some washers just as a fast/cheap temporary fix. Let us know if it works for you.
That's all I can do for now I spent a ton getting tires not to mention paying the dealership for installation. Wish I was able to do it myself not really auto savvy
05-26-2013 10:16 AM
Trendsetter75 Your Jeep looks great get rid of the TC drop and get a CV DS and rear upper control arms and lower control arms.
05-26-2013 09:58 AM
yoopone
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiGou View Post
Do I need both upper and lower control arms?
My RE 3.5" kit came with only upper adjustable control arms. I could not set the thrust angle of the rear axle to spec. So I bought some Currie lower adjustables, put them on and got the thrust angle perfect. So I guess I would never buy another lift that did not have all 4 CA's adjustable.
05-26-2013 08:18 AM
T2000J I'd pull the rear shaft till you get a cv shaft
05-26-2013 02:02 AM
TheDesertOutlaw If it was me, I would lower the Transfer case a little more with some washers just as a fast/cheap temporary fix. Let us know if it works for you.
05-26-2013 01:40 AM
RubiGou
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMTJEEP View Post

That's fine, I was just saying that if you were to planning on just doing the washers and wanting to go off road, it would not be a good idea.
No off roading for me. So all I have to do is put som washers to lower the T case more?
05-26-2013 12:12 AM
EMTJEEP
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiGou View Post
I just don't want to further damage anything because I just changed the u joints a month ago. I can order the control arms by weeks end but the CV will take me about 2 weeks to do.
That's fine, I was just saying that if you were to planning on just doing the washers and wanting to go off road, it would not be a good idea.
05-25-2013 11:39 PM
RubiGou
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMTJEEP View Post

I don't see why not but if you weren't getting the CV and uppers then as a permanent solution, no. It may take a couple trys to get the right number of washers but it could help lessen the u-joint stress until you get your CV.
I just don't want to further damage anything because I just changed the u joints a month ago. I can order the control arms by weeks end but the CV will take me about 2 weeks to do.
05-25-2013 11:27 PM
EMTJEEP
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiGou View Post
Since I'm getting the parts in approx 3 weeks can I use the washers to lessen the damage in the meantime. I'm def doing the CV and control arms but I have to wait a couple weeks for obvious reasons $$$$
I don't see why not but if you weren't getting the CV and uppers then as a permanent solution, no. It may take a couple trys to get the right number of washers but it could help lessen the u-joint stress until you get your CV.
05-25-2013 11:05 PM
RubiGou
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMTJEEP View Post

Why not do it right the first time and so when the near future comes for him to go off roading he doesn't have to redo this all over again?
Since I'm getting the parts in approx 3 weeks can I use the washers to lessen the damage in the meantime. I'm def doing the CV and control arms but I have to wait a couple weeks for obvious reasons $$$$
05-25-2013 06:46 PM
EMTJEEP
Quote:
Originally Posted by larjeep View Post
Wow. If u r not going off road really. Add a couple of washers to the tc drop and it will stop.
Why not do it right the first time and so when the near future comes for him to go off roading he doesn't have to redo this all over again?
05-25-2013 05:40 PM
larjeep Wow. If u r not going off road really. Add a couple of washers to the tc drop and it will stop.
05-25-2013 03:23 PM
RubiGou
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMTJEEP View Post

I believe that is correct that you only need the rear uppers when getting a CV shaft. Someone can correct me if I am wrong though.
I don't know about how much damage it will cause but I would believe that as long as you don't go too hard on it you should be fine. Just keeping checking the U-joints to make sure they haven't busted.

Here is Tom Woods website. Get it off of here and talked to them about the proper one you need for your jeep. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
Thanks a lot. This is a DD so I doubt I will ever see any off road action in the near future.
05-25-2013 02:55 PM
EMTJEEP
Quote:
Originally Posted by RubiGou View Post
Ok so I can get the Rear upper arms and the Tom Woods shaft for now. I have about two weeks before I can get them on will I cause any serious damage in the meantime? And also what site do you recommend the CV shaft I usually go to quadratec?
I believe that is correct that you only need the rear uppers when getting a CV shaft. Someone can correct me if I am wrong though.
I don't know about how much damage it will cause but I would believe that as long as you don't go too hard on it you should be fine. Just keeping checking the U-joints to make sure they haven't busted.

Here is Tom Woods website. Get it off of here and talked to them about the proper one you need for your jeep. Tom Wood's Custom Drive Shafts - Tom Woods Custom Drive Shafts Custom Driveshafts Specialist
05-25-2013 10:15 AM
RubiGou
Quote:
Originally Posted by EMTJEEP View Post
You need at minimum upper adjustable control arms when getting a CV shaft. I would say go with MC, better joints and have duroflex joints on both ends instead of RK that has one flex and bushing on the other for their lowers. And getting all new control rear/front upper/lowers is the best route to go.
Ok so I can get the Rear upper arms and the Tom Woods shaft for now. I have about two weeks before I can get them on will I cause any serious damage in the meantime? And also what site do you recommend the CV shaft I usually go to quadratec?
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