|05-28-2013 01:58 PM|
nuff said. New OEM seal, nut, washer, and CS on the way... with some other goodies.
Hope I can wrap this all up by the end of the week!!!
|05-28-2013 01:37 PM|
|05-28-2013 10:51 AM|
|05-28-2013 10:51 AM|
|Jerry Bransford||Oh geez I just re-read it & discovered the crush sleeve had been over tightened, sorry. Yep I'd install a fresh crush sleeve & start over.|
|05-28-2013 10:43 AM|
Or take the chance, destroy your gears over a 4$ crush sleeve.
|05-28-2013 09:51 AM|
That's kind of what I was hoping for. My line of thinking is that the crush sleeve is only used to set preload initially as the bearings are tapered and the CS provides outward force making "too much" torque a bit harder to achieve; any dual tapered set up is going to need correct preload whether a CS is used or not. And I'm not 100% convinced that my (max) 230 ft-lbs electric cheapo gun crunched down hard enough to do any extreme damage. My real concern was for the bearings seeing that I had heat (obviously overloaded); if the excessive torque applied to the pinion caused raceway damage or not. Hey ya never know.
What's the opinion on the seal? Think I'm fine with the seal being further inward than flush? It's not leaking but I'm really not a fan; plus the design just looks like it's going to be a PIA to get out anyways, so while I'm down there....
Jerry do you have a bar made up to torque with or just have a go with the wheels on the ground? Torqueing through the gearset makes me a little nervous but then again think of the loads applied on-trail.
|05-28-2013 09:30 AM|
|Jerry Bransford||There is no need to install a crush sleeve every time a new seal or yoke is installed. I would torque a new pinion nut down to between 165 & 185 ft-lbs. & be done with it. No, I didn't just pull that out of where the son doesn't shine.|
|05-28-2013 08:37 AM|
|freeskier||You're going to have to rip the whole diff apart and replace the crush sleeve and reset pre load. It's actually not a bad job, you will just need a beam style in/lb torque wrench.|
|05-28-2013 08:26 AM|
Front Pinion Opinions...
Well being rushed has bitten me once again....
Had a good leak going on with the front pinion seal so before yet ANOTHER Memorial Day BBQ I decided to run out to grab a seal and hopefully button up the project in the nick of time to take the jeep...which didn't happen.
Long story short this is going to be a preload issue/question. Not taking my time, I paid absolutely NO attention to my preload on the bearing and took up the yoke with a HF electric impact. Needless to say I needed 2 hands to rotate the yoke (this is after backing the nut and pulling it out a bit as well). Again, in a rush, I connected everything back up and went for a very short and slow ride down the road; when I got back, the housing was PRETTY warm (wouldn't say hot) compared to the 44. No leaks presently.
Here's where I stand and options I think I have at the moment:
1. Go at it again and get everything from Morris to include a new nut/washer, FLANGED seal (hate the Timken 5778v that the store had and raped me on....27 bucks), and new crush sleeve. I say new crush sleeve because I'm thinking I may need that....this is where opinions really are needed.
2. Everything involved in option #1 but without replacing the crush sleeve.
3. Carefully back everything off and go at the preload the right way (keeping the Timken seal). Meaning, everything is fine, I didn't melt or score anything, and the short run didn't tear anything up. The only issue I have with this is the Timken 5778 seal; I didn't like the fitment of it with the seal mounted flush in the housing so I evenly pressed it in fully; I'm not sure if this is a problem as well because the stock seal is a no-brainer with a flange.
I drive my jeep to work fairly frequently when the weather is nice so dependability is a major factor.
Bring on your thoughts and concerns; the jeep is needed for a 100 mile trip this weekend!