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Topic Review (Newest First)
05-30-2013 07:49 PM
BlueRidgeYJ I think it looks better without the grids, too, but you can judge before ya cut:


Attachment 255750

Remember kids, it's hip to be square!
05-30-2013 07:36 PM
BlueRidgeYJ I bought the Baha brand or somesuch, same lights though. I agree; they are the best 20$ lights around, but are still 20$ lights. They come with 55w H4 (iirc), but also have 100w bulbs next to em, at least at the part store.

How to make them awesome:
1. Cut out that silly grid - it only blocks light. Wire snips worked great.
2. Throw away their switch and take their wire to the scrap yard, then go buy a Coke.
3. While enjoying your Coke, go back to the parts store and get 1 or 2 relays and some 12ga wire for a set of 55w, 10 gauge for a set of 100w. Yes, this is overkill, but you need at least 14/12 gauge. You will be happier with the larger option.
4. Hook it all up.
5. Wait till dark and go buy another Coke with your awesome 35$ lights, smiling the whole way.

I would also upgrade my headlights to relay controlled larger wires at the same time if ya haven't, it makes an incredible difference. Mine are wired to an independent switch and my highbeams, either will engage them, and it is awesomely bright. You may still want to add more if you really want daylight, but I drive in dark hollows down mountain roads with animals everywhere and I can see em all from a long way out. Mine are 'Driving Lights', they are not what you want for fog. You need fog lights for that, which similar units are sold but they always seem to be yellow.

Btw, your fuse block melted because the heat caused by the excessive amperage fighting it's way down the tiny wire was greater than the fusebox could withstand. Probably immediately caused by a dead short (water), but possibly just how bad of an idea it is to use 16 or 18ga wire with 55w sets. Fwiw, I have seen several similar things happen by using their stock wiring, and have yet to encounter a problem with upgraded systems. The fact that the wires failed before the fuse or bulb is an indication of a systemic flaw.

55w x 2 = 110w, ÷ 12V = 9.2A draw. 100w x 2 = 200W ÷ 12V = 16.7A draw. 55s need at least a 10A fuse, I use a 15A. For 100w, 20A is needed.
05-28-2013 02:53 PM
RevCo666
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyx28 View Post
Pair, I think the manufacturer is platinum burners or something like that. They have a plastic rock guard molded right into the casing and they also come with solid daytime covers that snap on/off.
Right-i-o... Thanks again! Next time I'm at wally world, I'll have a closer look at them and see if I can jury rig on the back bumper with a switch.
05-28-2013 02:26 PM
jeremyx28 Pair, I think the manufacturer is platinum burners or something like that. They have a plastic rock guard molded right into the casing and they also come with solid daytime covers that snap on/off.
05-28-2013 02:23 PM
RevCo666
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyx28 View Post
They were less then $25....maybe like $23 or so
a pair or each? Thanks
05-28-2013 02:11 PM
jeremyx28 They were less then $25....maybe like $23 or so
05-28-2013 02:08 PM
RevCo666 OP: slightly off topic, how much did those walmart lights cost you? That's something I might be interested in but placing in the back and using a switch when its too dark to when going in reverse... Thanks in advance!
05-28-2013 02:03 PM
jeremyx28 That's how I looked at it....for $25 why not. I would say the lights will serve you well for fog, just make sure you mount/aim them low.
05-28-2013 01:56 PM
wrangleryj90 Awesome I upgraded my headlights but fog is a problem around my house so do you think they would be good for that? And I guess the worst that happens is 25bucks into crap lights lol
05-28-2013 01:56 PM
jeremyx28 They came with a 15 amp. I'm gonna end up switching to a 10 though. I have to run to auto zone and grab some fuses cause right now theres a 20 in there....its all I had to see if they still worked.
05-28-2013 01:53 PM
jeremyx28 Yeah they came with all the wiring and a switch. I didn't use the switch they came with cause I had a different toggle I wanted to use. For <$25 you can't beat them though. I like that they are square, I didn't want to put round lights on my bumper. They arnt crazy bright by any means, but they serve my purpose well enough. Honestly, they are probably as bright as the factory yj headlights.....
05-28-2013 01:48 PM
sevenservices I think the water shorted them. Don't worry about your lights, now that they're dry I'd say that was a faulty fuse. Was it a 10 Amp? Maybe drop to a 5 so it will blow before melt down occurs if there is a short somewhere in the future.
05-28-2013 01:46 PM
wrangleryj90 I don't know your problem but how do you like the lights? Did they come with wiring? I also have a yj
05-28-2013 01:44 PM
jeremyx28
walmart lights

So I bought those cheapo square lights from Walmart for my yj.


Attachment 254746

Well, I've had them installed for over a month or so now. I have them hooked to a very basic toggle switch, no lights on the switch and its not grounded. I was wheelin this weekend and went thru a deep pit that was filled with water. The water came well up over the lights and they were on at the time. Shortly after I was out of the jeep and noticed my lights wernt on. After I got home I did some closer inspection and noticed my inline fuse was melted.


Attachment 254749

I put a new fuse in and the lights turned on, no problem. I'm not sure why this happened though.....both lights are grounded right to the frame with less the 8" of wire. They each have a ring terminal and are held to the frame with self tappers. Now, I do have a heavy coat of paint on my frame and I didn't remove any paint at the grounds. I tapped then in, the lights worked so I figured....done. could the reason my fuse melted after going thru water be due to not having the most ideal grounds? Should I scrape some of the paint under the ring terminals or do I have a different problem all together?

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