|10-22-2013 08:49 AM|
Ok, Chryslers answer for my oil consumption...
Dealer Oil, Filter and Lube. Come back in 500 miles and have Dealership check oil.
Talked to the Mechanic, he said he believed it was rings, but any fix like that would require either an engine replacement or at the least a lower end rebuild.
He said "off the record" that most times Chrysler tries to push the issue off until out of warranty stating within "Tolerances". But I have a really good Dealership here who go that extra mile to fix things to bring back customers.
He also said it depends on where the engine was built as to the issues.
The 3.8 built in Mexico has a lot more issues than the one assembled in Trenton NJ, and all Crate and rebuilds come from the Trenton NJ plant.
On the Axle Seals. They were completely covered by my Drive Train Warranty.
They replaced, both bearings, axle shaft rings, axle shaft seals, inspected the rear diff for contamination damage, and flushed and replaced Gear Oil.
|10-07-2013 01:09 PM|
Throw my hat in here. 2011 JKU Sport (the one in my Profile)
I am using Mobil1 5w20 full synthetic oil in every oil change since new and I change it every 6000 miles.
48k miles on it, and it burns 1 quart every 500 to 1000 miles. Did not start doing this until about 38k miles.
I get lifter knock during hard acceleration now, and have a loss of power (Cannot even use 6th gear on flat land).
Have the 5 Year 70k drivetrain warranty.
Dealer is changing my Rear Axle Seals (in Warranty) and is going to "peruse" my oil consumption issue on Tuesday, 10/15/2013
I am sure he is going to say something to me about running 33 inch tires on 3.21 gears. But will let them sort it out and see what they find.
So far I have read spun bearing (assuming crank shaft bearings??), piston rings, and PCV valve issues.
And that this issue is not just a Wrangler issue but on all Chrysler 3.8l
(Guess that's why they only had a 5 year life span before the 3.6L came out)
I am assuming my situation is a little more dire since I have lifter knock and power loss.
Will update with what they tell me.
Will be back to driving my '83 RamCharger for a few days now.
|10-04-2013 02:47 PM|
|10-04-2013 11:25 AM|
|kimmerz281||I know this post is older but it helped me immensely! Thanks all for your previous posts!|
|05-28-2013 03:26 PM|
|05-28-2013 02:55 PM|
|jk'n||^^ Mine is under warranty and I see no surprise in their response. If mine starts consuming more than a quart in 1000 miles, I will present it to them for consideration of a possible repair to correct it. They will undoubtedly want to do a consumption test on it. They will verify that it is full, put a die in the oil and mark the dipstick and ask me to come back after a certain number of miles has elapsed on the odometer. It is their usual procedure that they have already informed me of. So, no surprise there.|
|05-28-2013 09:38 AM|
Received this from Chrysler Canada...
Dear Mr. XXX:
We are sorry to learn of the problems experienced with the oil
consumption in your 2007 Jeep Wrangler, VIN: XXX, and of
the resulting inconvenience.
Oil consumption can vary in each vehicle due to many different
circumstances. There is no standard amount of oil consumption that is
considered acceptable for all vehicles and conditions.
Some of the following are examples under which oil consumption may
increase on a vehicle:
1. during engine break in (up to about 7500 miles)
2. with vehicle age and mileage due to normal engine wear
3. during severe service use (heavy loading, towing, multiple short
trips, taxi, off-road or law enforcement use)
4. during sustained high speed driving
5. with failure to comply with recommended oil type and viscosity
ratings as outlined in the Owner's Manual.
If you feel that the oil consumption on your vehicle is not normal,
please contact your local dealership. In order for any determination to
be made, a supervised oil consumption test must be performed by the
dealership and an evaluation made.
Please be advised that there is no evidence in Chrysler Canada?s records
indicating there is a known issue with the engines or the installation
of the engines in the 2007 Jeep Wranglers.
We note that Recall Campaign J24, Mopar Tow Bar, is outstanding on your
vehicle. Please contact your dealer to arrange completion of this
service, at no charge to you.
We apologize for the inconvenience you encountered, and we appreciate
the opportunity to review this matter with you.
NOTE: Please do not use the 'Reply' function of your email. If you have
a need to respond to this email, please visit us at our reply form (link
provided below). Our system is NOT able to accept any emails at this
For any future communications related to this email, please refer to the
REFERENCE NUMBER: XXX
K. Owen (Ms.)
Customer Care Manager
Chrysler Canada Customer Care
Original Message Follows:
2007 Wrangler oil burning issue
Hello. I purchased this Jeep in 08/12 privately and know there is no
existing warranty. However after driving 6000 miles (odometer reads
miles) and 2 oil changes I have come to notice that I am burning oil at
the rate of at least 1L/1000 miles. Doing extensive internet research I
see that this is an issue with some Wranglers where the engines were
made in Mexico (rings not installed correctly). I am concerned about
engine repair costs down the road and am wondering what Chrysler Canada
can do for me in this circumstance. Chrysler\'s policy of 1L/1000 miles
being normal makes no sense to me as this excessive burning will clog
the O2 sensors and destroy the catalytic converter in short time. I
appreciate your response to this issue and thank you.
|05-20-2013 04:51 PM|
|MercMan||Just an update. It was suggested by mechanic that maybe add 1/2L of Lucas oil stabilizer and see if it helps. Anyone have experience with this stuff?|
|05-19-2013 03:21 PM|
|05-19-2013 02:31 PM|
|MercMan||Just had a crazy thought. I am thinking next oil change I am going to scrap the synthetic and buy 1 jug each (same brand) of 5W20 and 5W30 and mix equal parts. Kind of a progression upwards in weight. I will see what happens and if little maybe do a full 5W30 on the following oil change and see. Crazy?|
|05-19-2013 01:29 PM|
|Vette man||I changed my oil on 2013 wrangler 2 door at 3500 miles and it didn't use any oil. Anytime a dealer does work you need to double check their work. Who knows how much oil they put in. I think using that much oil needs to be documented I wouldn't be comfortable with that usage|
|05-19-2013 01:26 PM|
I have been using the "Extended Mileage" type motor oils in 10W-30 weight. in my 07 with 41K miles. It has reduced my oil consumption quite a bit .
I don't see any trouble using a 10-30 oil in these engines, designed or not ,the rest of the American engines spec either a 5-30 or a 10-30 oil with no trouble even in winter operation.
Just for giggles I been looking at piston rings on line and gasket sets....
Piston rings are running about $70.00 and the gaskets are around $100.00...
Should be able to do a re-ring job with out pulling the engine in a Jeep. Pull the intake, the heads, Pull the pan off and the rods should be able to push out from the bottom, install the rings and a compressor and push em back in.
You could even remove the front axle for better access as well as the fenders...
I have done lots of engine rebuilds so I have the tools already.... I just hate to get greasy anymore.... "BH"
|05-19-2013 12:26 PM|
|jk'n||I would be careful about putting in heavy oil in the 3.8. I've been hearing on the forum that this engine was designed to run with 5W20. I have run 5W30 but wouldn't run anything heavier than that. I wouldn't want to damage the engine if it runs perfectly well with the intended oil in it but just burns it off at a high rate. Putting in additional quarts between changes is a lot cheaper than replacing the engine.|
|05-18-2013 05:22 PM|
If you have confidence in your local Mechanic, then try the 10w30 first, if it doesn't work then you can always try the 15w40. I do recommend that you flush it with the Marvel oil first. Ask your mechanic if he is familiar with Marvel Mystery oil?
Marvel is not a new product, but has been around for about 70 years!
|05-18-2013 05:11 PM|
|MercMan||15w40? Thats a lot heavier than the 5w20 that they recommend. My mechanic said to maybe go with 10w30 but even at that I am thinking it is quite heavy. Not sure what to do actually.|
|05-18-2013 04:52 PM|
If you don't have a oil consumption issue and it was Dealer caused, well this is still great oil to use!
|05-18-2013 03:46 PM|
|JKASS||Mine was using a quart every 750miles or so. I sucked some seafoam up through a vacuum line and poured the rest into the oil. After 100 miles I changed the oil and went to 10w-30 from the 5w- 20. It's been 1500 miles so far with no noticeable loss of oil. Read up on the sea foam procedure and consider a heavier oil. My $.02.|
|05-18-2013 03:36 PM|
|socal-jk||I've been working ob BMW's since the late 90's andni will echo that you aren't going to harm them at that rate.|
|05-18-2013 03:01 PM|
|MercMan||Talked to my mechanic and he said the real issue was clogging the O2 sensors and the catalytic converter which can be pricey to fix. Then talked to a friend of mine who is the service manager at the local jeep dealership and he said while he is aware of it and with hassle some warrantied engines have been replaced but he has never seen issues with the sensors or converter and said 1L/1000 miles isnt enough to do damage. Any thoughts from the mechanics out there? Thanks for any answers and I will leave it alone now and live with it.|
|05-18-2013 12:52 PM|
|socal-jk||That's fine. I have never seen an issue from oil consumption at that level. Once you get down in the quart every few hundred miles and smoking you have issues. M5's could do a quart in 5-800 miles from 10k miles and after about 90k they would get the secondary air injection passages jn the heads restricted. Some engines use oil, others use none. I had a friend with the same M5 I maintained for years and at 100k it burned a quart in 2500 miles which is unheard of in that car. Unless its smoking which is a lot of oil I wouldn't worry about it.|
|05-18-2013 12:41 PM|
|MercMan||Only 32200 miles on it though...|
|05-18-2013 12:39 PM|
|socal-jk||2L in 2300 miles? I wouldn't worry about that at all. Porsche specd a quart in 600 miles for turbo cars and bmw is a quart in 1k miles as normal which is about right.|
|05-18-2013 12:34 PM|
|MercMan||Ok, so I drained the oil just now and sure enough it was down. After 2300 miles on a change I have added over 2L. I had asked the previous owner about it before and he said that where he got his oil changed no one ever mentioned it to him so he didnt know. While I think he is honest I wonder. Anyway not happy about it but as long as it doesnt cause other problems I guess I will add oil between changes. No warranty and not going to spend $4000 on a new engine at this point. What does everyone else do in this situation?|
|05-17-2013 02:34 AM|
|2five22||A 2013 should not be spitting out white smoke and the exhaust should not smell like burning oil.|
|05-17-2013 01:01 AM|
|reddragons||I've noticed twice recently I go out to start the Jeep and it spits out white smoke for about 10 seconds and smells like burning oil. Then it returns to normal, is this normal? Jeep JKU 2013 with 2,600 miles.|
|05-17-2013 12:38 AM|
|05-16-2013 09:39 AM|
I realize this is more about 2007 or so Jeeps but just to mention, my 2010 uses no oil between change. I added Mobile 1 and drove 5000 miles before I changed it and it stayed on full the whole time. I'm staying with Mobile 1 for the rest of time I own the Jeep.
Sorry you guys are having this problem and that's what it is. A quart in 1000 miles would be depressing.
|05-16-2013 08:11 AM|
|05-16-2013 06:26 AM|
|bluejkx||My 07 was using oil also.4 quarts every 3000 miles. Brought it to dealership had oil consumption test done. Service manager said there is a problem with oil control rings being put in upside down. They swapped out the engine and now everything is fine. No oil loss between oil changes. Total cost for job was $4100. Glad I had extended warranty. Only cost me $100 for deductible.|
|05-16-2013 02:54 AM|
|2five22||Take some of the used oil from a change and submit it to a certified lab for testing. They can tell you in PPM or in a worst case scenario - PPT/T, what metals are in the oil and you can surmise from this whether it is a case of bad rings, bad bearings, a leaking block, etc.|
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