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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-25-2013 05:25 PM
Rusty762 Pushed it out of the shop and put it on the fork lift to check out some flexing.





Chewey always seems to find the unsafe place to be...

06-25-2013 05:24 PM
Rusty762 Got a bunch of stuff done this weekend, first on the list was to notch the rear crossmember to allow the Rock Jock 60 to go up another two inches at full stuff. Dropped the gas tank, going to be doing a lot of cutting and welding and no need to put my fire fighting skills to use.





Crappy picture but once we removed the chunk, we slid a piece of 3/8 stock inside which had to be tapped into place with a hammer and then welded the face. Its stronger then it was before.



Next on the list, get the rear anti rock sway bar mounted. Took some measurements for clearance on the upper control arms, c clamped everything onto the frame and installed the torsion bar with arms to check for clearance in the back with bump stops and shock towers.





Next up, after lots of measuring, trying to establish the correct ride height and triple checking everything then doing it again. We cut the rear frame for out boarding the shock towers, my dad had the great idea of using a skilsaw which went through the frame like butter and allowed us to set the correct depth of the cut so we did not cut through the back of the frame.





I was able to move the shock towers back considerably and still leave the EVAP canister ledge in place, California does visual inspection of this device and even though mine is disconnected I want it there to pass smog.



With the tower clamped in place, we tacked the lower rear shock mounts into place on the axle and I bolted the coilovers in place sans coils to check some clearances. Then we tacked a small piece of angle iron onto the back on the one tower, this gave us the angle of the frame and I transferred this measurement over to the other tower so we knew they were the same on both sides.



Albert likes the progress so far!



Threw the coils on, seeing this got me pretty excited I can almost taste that sierra dirt...





I think the dogs are as excited as me!

06-17-2013 04:19 PM
Rusty762 Only had one day this weekend to work on the heep, finished buttoning up the front end, installed currie trac bar, currie steering, set the toe in, checked clearances on everything and looks good. One item that is a little perplexing is the steering wheel is 180 degrees off from where it was stock. Going to pull it and reinstall it centered, need to first make sure this wont screw something up with the computer?



Couple weekends ago I screwed up and did not set the pinion angle, removed the LCA mounts and tacked them up proper this time with correct pinion angle, also replaced the upper DOM with 2", same as the lowers. Next weekend installing rear coilover mounts, frenching bump stops, trimming the rear crossmember and installing rear AR.



My dads shop doubles as a museum, here is some boom stick porn. Fully functioning MG 34 with anti aircraft sight, also can use belt fed ammo.

06-12-2013 01:08 PM
Walkingstick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty762 View Post

I am not familiar with Global, I have some good friends that work for Oceaneering, my buddy Drew was a Newt Suit pilot for many years and now runs the show. Good luck to you, be safe!
Thanks man! And yeah most certainly. To me nothing beats being sub surface.
06-12-2013 10:23 AM
Rusty762
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkingstick View Post
I'm going for Technical Diving. Thinking about Global Diving and Salvage, heard they are a great group to work for. Going to work my ass off to, hopefully, become SatDiver in several years. I've got time on my side, so anything is possible.
I am not familiar with Global, I have some good friends that work for Oceaneering, my buddy Drew was a Newt Suit pilot for many years and now runs the show. Good luck to you, be safe!
06-11-2013 12:15 PM
Walkingstick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty762 View Post

Not sure of anyone I would absolutely avoid, I have been in the dive industry for the last 10 years and have meet with just about everyone, it is a very small group and even smaller when you get into technical diving. There are several companies that are exceptional, not sure what market you are targeting, are you talking about DEMA?
I'm going for Technical Diving. Thinking about Global Diving and Salvage, heard they are a great group to work for. Going to work my ass off to, hopefully, become SatDiver in several years. I've got time on my side, so anything is possible.
06-11-2013 12:12 PM
Rusty762 Front axle is sleeved, 5:13's are in and ARB with RCV axles is good to go, Synergy HD ball joints check, installed my Barnett diff cover, then wire wheeled the whole thing and wiped it down and painted it.



I was on a mission this weekend to get it done and did not take many pictures, it was 110 degrees at my dads shop in Yosemite! Painted the front shock towers, 4 inch currie coils are in and Fox resy's with Waynes special sauce.







Drilled the drivers side knuckle for the Jeep Co Op tie rod flip, need to install my currie correct lync steering next weekend and finish up the front brakes.
06-11-2013 12:10 PM
Rusty762
Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkingstick View Post
Most certainly will!
Not sure if you're familiar, quality wise, with Dive companies. I'm planning on networking with several dive companies while I attend training for CommDiving. Any companies, you know of, to absolutely avoid?
Not sure of anyone I would absolutely avoid, I have been in the dive industry for the last 10 years and have meet with just about everyone, it is a very small group and even smaller when you get into technical diving. There are several companies that are exceptional, not sure what market you are targeting, are you talking about DEMA?


Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
I haven't been on it yet, but I hear it has some challenging spots. The trail is only about 5-6 miles long but takes a good 4hrs to complete. It would be a cake walk for your rig I'm sure. Here's a link.

4x4TrailMaps - Slick Rock Road
Thanks that looks like a cool trail, I will make it a point to check it out this summer. Let you know when I am headed there.
06-07-2013 03:02 PM
bobthetj03
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty762 View Post
Cool never heard of it, whats the trail like for difficulty?

I haven't been on it yet, but I hear it has some challenging spots. The trail is only about 5-6 miles long but takes a good 4hrs to complete. It would be a cake walk for your rig I'm sure. Here's a link.

4x4TrailMaps - Slick Rock Road
06-07-2013 01:42 PM
Walkingstick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty762

Cool never heard of it, whats the trail like for difficulty?

Thanks, it was a difficult decision to sell the CCR, already have another project started to replace it though!

I have some cool ideas for a custom cage going to start that in a couple weeks when the rig is back on the road, check back to take a peek.
Most certainly will!
Not sure if you're familiar, quality wise, with Dive companies. I'm planning on networking with several dive companies while I attend training for CommDiving. Any companies, you know of, to absolutely avoid?
06-07-2013 01:38 PM
Rusty762
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
Slick Rock isn't very far from you actually. Google Lake Alpine. East on SR-4.
Cool never heard of it, whats the trail like for difficulty?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Walkingstick View Post
That was a nice unit. Im in envy.
Ive got plans for my rig, similar to yours in the sense of overlanding. Just gotta get relocated and what not.
Thanks, it was a difficult decision to sell the CCR, already have another project started to replace it though!

I have some cool ideas for a custom cage going to start that in a couple weeks when the rig is back on the road, check back to take a peek.
06-06-2013 04:13 PM
Walkingstick
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty762
What the hell is this and why is it important to my build?

After much deliberation I decided to sell my MK28 Closed Circuit Rebreather. I am currently not doing a lot of cave/wreck diving and the Meg is at the top of the food chain for CCR's, sold it to someone in Australia for $10,000 and that is going towards my Rig! Ordered 37" tires yesterday, next purchase is metal cloak joints and some DOM.
That was a nice unit. Im in envy.
Ive got plans for my rig, similar to yours in the sense of overlanding. Just gotta get relocated and what not.
06-05-2013 11:53 PM
bobthetj03
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty762 View Post
Thanks for the invite, Slick Rock in Moab? Probably will not have the rig back together until early July. I have not been to High Lakes and will keep email you when its done. Have no plans this summer except work and wheeling.
Slick Rock isn't very far from you actually. Google Lake Alpine. East on SR-4.
06-05-2013 08:28 PM
Rusty762
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
Not yet, but they are on my bucket list. We're running Slick Rock in July, and High Lakes in August if you're interested in joining us.
Thanks for the invite, Slick Rock in Moab? Probably will not have the rig back together until early July. I have not been to High Lakes and will keep email you when its done. Have no plans this summer except work and wheeling.
06-05-2013 04:50 PM
bobthetj03
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty762 View Post
I am planning on running the Rubicon once this summer, you ever run Dusy Ershim or Swamp lake?
Not yet, but they are on my bucket list. We're running Slick Rock in July, and High Lakes in August if you're interested in joining us.
06-05-2013 11:29 AM
Rusty762
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobthetj03 View Post
Cool, the condensed, cliff notes version! I'll follow here too! You'll have to head up north when you get er done and hit some trails with us.
I am planning on running the Rubicon once this summer, you ever run Dusy Ershim or Swamp lake?
06-04-2013 12:54 PM
bobthetj03 Cool, the condensed, cliff notes version! I'll follow here too! You'll have to head up north when you get er done and hit some trails with us.
06-04-2013 12:39 PM
Rusty762 Checked the UCA arms and tub clearance with the Rock Jock at full bump, lots of clearance at the frame so I am going to run the bigger DOM that the lowers use on the uppers.





Next up I tacked the UCA mount to the truss, used the flex joints to get the spacing correct.



Bolted everything up and cycled it



also threw a tire on at my estimated ride height

06-04-2013 12:39 PM
Rusty762 Started on the rear 4 link this last weekend, had to get a little creative to support the rig and have full access to the frame rail to look at some different length arm options and to be able to slide the 4 link mounts back and forth on the frame.



Building the 4 link at full bump, first thing to do was check the UCA mounts on the truss for clearance with the tub. Took some measurements from the nut serts on the frame to check the axle was centered, also took some measurements from the top of the axle to the frame for future reference. I had read that the ideal pinion angle with a double cardan was zero degrees, the pinion should be pointing at the output shaft of the transfer case. There was some difference of opinion on this with my pops and it would cost me a little time later on but more on that later..



Also moved the axle back, roughly 4 inches from the stock rear axle and still have an inch of clearance with the Genright Crawler EXT tank.





Next up was figuring out where to mount the 4 link front mounts, I started off 3 inches forward of the nut serts on the frame. Clamped them in place and held my DOM inline with the mounts to see what my clearance looked like for the lowers by running them over to the centerline of the axle.



Once that looked good I measured out an equal distance on both side of the axle and tacked the LCA mounts into place. I then set the Metalcloak joints into the DOM and slid bolts into place to see how the angles and clearance looked, then tacked the bungs into place on the DOM. I ordered right and left hand threads to make adjustments easier later for dialing in the pinion angle. To determine the DOM length I put one of the durojoints in at the front LCA mount and then ran the pipe back to the LCA mount on the axle where I had the other duroflex joint bolted in and made a mark on the DOM, pretty straightforward.



Rear LCA mounts tacked in



LCA's with bungs tacked

06-04-2013 12:38 PM
Rusty762 These showed up yesterday and were the final parts I was waiting on for my 4 link, Metalcloak joints and Poly budget bumpstops with some old school urethane bump pads. Heading back up tonight after work to start installing the front axle and suspension.



06-04-2013 12:33 PM
Rusty762 Next up was installing the Poly front coilover kit that I bought last year, it requires cutting the stock front shock mount and uses part of that to reinforce the Poly coil over mount. Getting it to fit correctly was a chore and hindsight I would go a different route knowing what I do now. My thought at the time I bought this kit last year was it would allow me to install Fox 12" shocks in the front with my Currie 4" coils and in the future run coil overs if I wanted to. I ended up cutting the front Poly mount quite a bit to get it to fit correctly and even then its not a great fit but will work for now and the last thing I need to do is spend more money right now!

Here is a picture of the front mount cut to accept the Poly tower, I used my plasma for the cuts.



Here the mount is fitting better, test fit it with some clamps. There is an over engine cross bar that ties into the top of both towers, once I had both towers fit to the stock mounts I check fit the cross bar. It was under a little tension when bolted up. I am going to burn in the towers and then will heat the tube slightly to relieve tension.



Cross bar installed

06-04-2013 12:33 PM
Rusty762 Removing the stock mounts takes time, I will be installing coilovers in the rear and was not concerned with reusing the stock coil buckets so I cut them up with the plasma to make removal quicker and finished the frame with a grinder, before I install the Poly 4 link mounts and Gen Right rear sway bar I will remove all of the paint from those areas.



Once all of the mounts on the rear were removed I started to work on the front axle, I had some new shock mounts to weld in place of the stock shock mounting locations that would let me run a 12" Fox reservoir with eyes on both ends. Also had some of Blaines Raised Swaybar links and gussets which a great piece of kit Jeep Co-Op Canada





With my dad helping welding, I am getting twice the amount of work done!



It was not until I finished welding the drivers side that I noticed something not normal, can anyone spot what it is? I am hoping it is not what I think it is but will not know until I remove the axles to check the tubes!

06-04-2013 12:32 PM
Rusty762 Memorial Day weekend I started the install of my suspension, first order was to pull out the front and rear axles. I will be doing a bunch of upgrades to make the front Rubi 44 better able to handle the 37" BFG's I will be running, the rear axle is getting replaced with a RJ 60, The rear Rubi 44 is in mint condition and will be listed for sale shortly let me know if you are interested, I will be selling the factory air compressor for the front and rear lockers also with the rear axle and will have a 4:10 R&P and front air locker for sale also.





With the axles out of the way, I started removing all of the factory suspension mounts from the frame, I used a plasma cutter for most of the mounts and a 4" cutting wheel, the frames are very thin so you need to take care when cutting the mounts off to not gouge the frame.





06-04-2013 12:30 PM
Rusty762 I ended up cutting the hose with white plastic fitting to take up the least amount of space possible and keep all of the hose routing clean.



I then mounted it up in this position, two of my CEL went away. Only code I have left is a PO455 and I think it is the Fuel filler neck, have one on order and will test out my theory friday.



With the EVAP out of the way, installing the lights was a piece of cake. Her *** looks nice and clean with the toasters removed...



06-04-2013 12:29 PM
Rusty762 After chasing around some codes for an EVAP leak I decided to bypass the canister to make room for my stretch and to install the lite dots I have had sitting in the garage. If your not familiar with the location of the EVAP, it is inside the passenger rear wheel well.

First remove the 3 bolts that hold the debris cover, then 2 more bolts for the bracket and the entire assembly will slide out. Before you try to slide it out, make sure to disconnect these two items. There is a white plastic fitting for the EVAP line that comes off the gas tank, if you look closely you will see a pressure spot on the white part, push down on this and the black male fitting will pull out. The electrical connection has a red clip that needs to be pulled out to the side (I use a std screwdriver) and then push in the center and it will come apart. Be careful with both of these parts, it is worth taking your time and not forcing anything. You can see the two connections in the second picture that are in my hands.





Remove these hoses from the top of the charcoal canister, and then the 4 nuts and you can separate the canister from the bracket.





You should then have something that looks like this



Loosen these two bolts and remove the other part of the EVAP system with hoses attached from the bracket.



And you should have this



This is one of the two hoses we disconnected from the canister at the beginning, we are going to plug this back into the other part of the EVAP system and bypass the canister.



It should look like this

06-04-2013 12:28 PM
Rusty762 Picked these goodies up from Gen Right!





06-04-2013 12:28 PM
Rusty762 I feel like sharing and its my friday!



06-04-2013 12:27 PM
Rusty762 Last weekend I worked on the junk yard wheels I picked up. Used a Stainless wire wheel on them and then sanded them down, just need to paint them satin black now. The one in the foreground is done the one behind is in need of TLC...



Some more small parts showed up yesterday, ordered a Diff cover from Barnett Performance, some ORO lite dots for my Genright stretch corners and a Blue Monkey Speedo healer.



Also some of these showed up from Ano, just need to do a couple of operations on them and they will be good to go!!

06-04-2013 12:27 PM
Rusty762 What the hell is this and why is it important to my build?





After much deliberation I decided to sell my MK28 Closed Circuit Rebreather. I am currently not doing a lot of cave/wreck diving and the Meg is at the top of the food chain for CCR's, sold it to someone in Australia for $10,000 and that is going towards my Rig! Ordered 37" tires yesterday, next purchase is metal cloak joints and some DOM.
06-04-2013 12:26 PM
Rusty762 Spent the Easter weekend with my folks at their house in Yosemite. My dad has a couple or ranges on his property, took my Barrett M98 out there to take some shots out to 1200 meters. Other than Cholame which is about 4 hours from where I live it is the only place I can get the distance. My local range (Lagunaseca) only goes out to 500..



My dads business is Buy, Sell, Trade pretty much anything but mostly guns and automobiles. His property is full of parts, I started rummaging through some wheels he had and found a set of four American Racing 17x8 aluminum wheels, 5x5.5 which are perfect for my new axles. The BS is 4.5 but should be fine with the 65" axle Currie is building. Going to wire wheel them and paint em black, cost was free as long as I do not bring them back.



Also these showed up today for my front Rubi D44, 5x4.5 to 5x5.5 spacers and they were blems so got em cheap.

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