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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-20-2013 02:35 PM
Robertsk1
Quote:
Originally Posted by ipleadda2nd View Post
It probably would have worked. I read that using RTV is a bad idea because a small piece could dislodge and plug one of the many small passages in the transmission. Regardless if that's a valid concern, I just didn't want to take the chance.
Ahh that makes sense. I figured if it can seal a diff it can seal a tranny pan
06-20-2013 02:31 PM
ipleadda2nd
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robertsk1 View Post
I'm not very well-versed on this specific subject, but when it comes to making the seal, did you try using RTV blue instead of the gasket that comes with it? The more manipulative nature of the rtv may allow it to make a better seal with the warped pan. I mean, if there's a large enough gap, it won't matter what you do.

Just an idea.

Good luck!
It probably would have worked. I read that using RTV is a bad idea because a small piece could dislodge and plug one of the many small passages in the transmission. Regardless if that's a valid concern, I just didn't want to take the chance.
06-20-2013 02:21 PM
Robertsk1 I'm not very well-versed on this specific subject, but when it comes to making the seal, did you try using RTV blue instead of the gasket that comes with it? The more manipulative nature of the rtv may allow it to make a better seal with the warped pan. I mean, if there's a large enough gap, it won't matter what you do.

Just an idea.

Good luck!
06-20-2013 02:10 PM
ipleadda2nd
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Did the pan warp while being welded? If you go aluminum are you installing a pan with a built-in bung with the required 1/8" NPT thread for the sensor?

Back to the steel pan, what kind of gasket did you use? A rigid gasket like from Lubelocker might be the key to getting it leak-free.

Edit: Never mind, I just read your later thread that says you're already well past this.
No, they were warped out of the packaging. I was able to get them more straight, but just not enough. Maybe a bad batch? They were both purchased from JEGS, but 6 months apart.

I wasn't able to find an aluminum pan other than the TCI or Summit. Both do not have bungs built-in.

I used the gaskets that came with the pans. They are a black rubbery material.

If you want to, you could read my recent aluminum pan post and let me know what you think.
06-20-2013 12:49 PM
Jerry Bransford Did the pan warp while being welded? If you go aluminum are you installing a pan with a built-in bung with the required 1/8" NPT thread for the sensor?

Back to the steel pan, what kind of gasket did you use? A rigid gasket like from Lubelocker might be the key to getting it leak-free.

Edit: Never mind, I just read your later thread that says you're already well past this.
06-20-2013 12:34 PM
ipleadda2nd After all that work it leaked. I just couldn't get the pan to lay flat enough. I decided to go the aluminum route.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/alum...ct-250609.html
06-06-2013 11:43 AM
ipleadda2nd I have another pan and bung. I would weld it in and paint it for someone if they were interested. I would only charge for the parts and shipping.
06-05-2013 02:53 PM
Jerry Bransford No sealant or teflon tape should be applied to the sensor threads, it won't leak and it needs a good electrical connection. Though if you really want to apply some type of sealant, one layer of teflon tape is fine since the sensor threads will cut through it well enough to make a good ground connection. To make sure the pan is well grounded, I removed the paint from around one of the bolt holes on the pan.
06-05-2013 02:27 PM
ipleadda2nd
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Nice job, that is the same location I ended up installing my 32RH's temp sensor bung into as well. The more tempting driver's side is where I first mounted the bung but it placed the sensor too close to the driveshaft.
Do you think I should be putting some kind of sealant on the threads of the temp sensor? If so, would that prevent it from grounding through the pan correctly?

Also, did you remove the coating from any of the pan bolts to make sure there is a good electrical connection between the pan and transmission?
06-05-2013 12:55 PM
ipleadda2nd Thanks Jerry!
06-05-2013 12:12 PM
Jerry Bransford Nice job, that is the same location I ended up installing my 32RH's temp sensor bung into as well. The more tempting driver's side is where I first mounted the bung but it placed the sensor too close to the driveshaft.
06-05-2013 11:50 AM
ipleadda2nd Finishing Up Pan

After painting I ran the tap through the bung threads again. I don't want any phosphate wash getting in the way of the temp sensor grounding through the pan. I also cleaned the inside of the pan just in case.

I had to buy a 1/2-20 tap because the fluid drain plug was going in hard.

Here it is completed.

Attachment 257981

Attachment 257976

Here you can see how far the temp sensor sticks out. There will be plenty of room between it and the drive shaft.

Attachment 257977

I will install pan this weekend and finish this thread.
06-05-2013 11:45 AM
ipleadda2nd Bung Installation

Here's the bung I used.

Attachment 257971

You need to find a place on the pan to mount the sensor that will not get in the way of anything under the tranny or around it. After reading a few posts I new where to mount it.

32rh tranny deep oil pan - JeepForum.com
32RH/TF999 Temp Sensor Bung Location - JeepForum.com

I chose the forward half of the 45 degree angled side on the driver's side of pan. See below pics. This is where Jerry recommends and after looking at it, I agree. Just make sure you don't mount it inline with a bolt hole. Otherwise you would need to remove the sensor to remove the pan. Also, I mounted it slightly lower than halfway on the pan side.

The bung needs an 11/16" hole. I drilled a 5/8" hole and enlarged it with a Dremel.

I chose a series of overlapping spot welds. I would start at the base of the previous spot weld and push the puddle back onto it like BlackMagicBrakes talks about in this post.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/curr...ml#post3809556

I have a Hobart 187 welder using: heat 4, wire speed 30, gas C25 @ 20psi, wire 0.350". Since your welders probably different, this is for me to reference later.

Attachment 257972

Here's the inside of the pan. Notice how the weld penetrated all the way through the pan. I'm not sure if this is kosher or not.

Attachment 257973

The threads in the bung didn't warp due to the heat, but some spatter got in them. I used a tap and cleaned it up.

I wanted to test for leaks before installing the pan. I happened to have some used motor oil. The driveway concrete is not the best place for this. It didn't leak!

Attachment 257974


Paint

I'm only painting the outside of pan. I will not paint the mounting flange.

1. Cleaned with Acetone.
2. Scuffed with a Scotch‑Brite Roloc disc.
3. Cleaned with Acetone.
3. Applied Phosphate/Zinc wash. Avoided inside of pan, mounting flange, and threads. Wiped dry and let air dry for a bit.
4. Cleaned with Acetone.
5. Masked
6. Painted

Attachment 257975
06-05-2013 11:41 AM
ipleadda2nd
Deep Transmission Pan and Temp Sensor Project

Intro

I have a 2001 Wrangler Sport with the 32rh auto tranny.

I want a temp sensor for my trans fluid. The best idea I heard was getting the Mopar deep transmission pan and mounting a temp sensor in the side. The deep pan is a little taller and holds more fluid than the factory pan. The extra fluid is nice when climbing a steep hill.

Parts

Transmission Pan
Bung - JEGS
Bung - Auto Meter
Temp Gauge
Misc
  • 1/8-27 Pipe tap (I believe this means 1/8" NPT)
  • 1/2-20 tap (drain plug thread damage)
  • Welder
  • Eastwood After Blast Metal Prep Zinc Phosphate wash
  • Semi-gloss black Dupli-Color Engine Enamel with Ceramic paint

Here's the pan.

Attachment 257963

Attachment 257964


Warped Pan

The tranny pan mounting flange doesn't lay perfectly flat. I compared to another identical pan and it had the same issue. I needed to finesse it flat, only about 1/8" off.

I used a piece of 1x4 board and a hammer. I took my time and got it flat.

Attachment 257965

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