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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-10-2013 09:04 PM
petercass88 Good to know! I will look into it
06-10-2013 08:36 PM
Defcon 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by petercass88 View Post
im not sure where the vacuum line is located that you are referring to, do you have a picture you could share? I just did an oil change so i will have to let that one wait a bit
I dont have a pic currently, but on your brake booster on the drivers side firewall, ( the big black circular thing ), there is a 1/2" diameter black rubber hose that's coming out of the 10 o'clock position, ( there's only one hose actually ). That's the vacuum hose I used to suck up the Seafoam, it's real easy to access and since it's 1/2" diameter you can suck up a lot of volume without hesistating the engine.
06-09-2013 08:34 PM
petercass88 im not sure where the vacuum line is located that you are referring to, do you have a picture you could share? I just did an oil change so i will have to let that one wait a bit
06-09-2013 07:40 PM
Defcon 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by petercass88 View Post
oo nice i didnt think of running any through the oil/crank case. how did you feed it in there? Through the valve cover? I would be nervous of getting too much seafoam running through and not enough oil.
Right before you do an oil change, just add the Seafoam to the oil quantity. It'll mix up real good while your driving around for the intake cleansing you'd normally do after adding Seafoam through the vacuum. I drove mine for 100 miles, because I thought it needed more lovin' than most Jeeps lol. Then I just dumped the oil for the oil change I did this weekend. Lifters are a lot quieter now so that crap really works.

I added the Seafoam to the oil and fuel tank after I did the intake cleaning at idle. Like, I added it to the tanks during the 25 minutes it was sitting with the engine off.
06-09-2013 06:53 PM
petercass88 oo nice i didnt think of running any through the oil/crank case. how did you feed it in there? Through the valve cover? I would be nervous of getting too much seafoam running through and not enough oil.

They sell a kit with a little breather line that you feed right into the intake system right after the filter. The line curves right around and through the hose that connects to the airbox and you just keep the engine at approx. 2200-2500 RPM and slowly feed the seafoam in. If you see smoke coming out of your tailpipe, you are doing it right

That option requires more than 1 person to do it right, a few of us want to have a "seafoam" party and do it on all our vehicles and get any and all carbon build up gone
06-09-2013 03:55 PM
Defcon 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by petercass88 View Post
Sweet did you do the seafoam kit that you run through the gas tank or the spray that you run through the intake? Im thinking about doing both and trying to get everything carbon free from end to end!

I got the regular liquid stuff in the can. I didn't know they made a spray kind that's awesome. But I split up the can into thirds, put 1/3 in the gas tank, 1/3 in the oil / crankcase, and the last 1/3 I ran through my brake booster vacuum line as it was idling.

Then I let it sit for about 25 minutes and then started it back up. I think I killed all the mosquitos on my street lol, so something definitely got cleaned.
06-09-2013 12:48 PM
petercass88 Sweet did you do the seafoam kit that you run through the gas tank or the spray that you run through the intake? Im thinking about doing both and trying to get everything carbon free from end to end!
06-09-2013 11:58 AM
Defcon 1 Cool beans man sounds good. The Seafoam should help a bunch I just did mine last week, that stuff is awesome.
06-09-2013 10:55 AM
petercass88 I was thinking of running seafoam through the intake to clean it up. Im sure I have carbon build up everywhere
06-09-2013 10:54 AM
petercass88 Well hey, they are side by side ans have similar looking housings :-P the gasket was cracked, gonna take them both into autozone for replacements.
06-09-2013 09:54 AM
Defcon 1 You removed the IAC lol. Before you put it back check the o-ring on the shaft. If its cracked or dried out it could leak and you should replace it. It looks really dirty too so maybe you can spray some carb cleaner in the IAC Throttle Body Housing and clean it up a bit, it's not supposed to be that gunked up lol. Don't spray the o-ring though it'll dry it out.
06-08-2013 10:22 PM
petercass88 nevermind... im an idiot and removed the wrong sensor lol!! Still is not the right sensor though, i will take them both in to autozone and tell em to get me the right one and update their stupid database... bleh.
06-08-2013 01:11 PM
petercass88
Quote:
Originally Posted by Defcon 1 View Post
I went with Duralast for my sensors when I replaced them, they seemed pretty comparable to the OEM ones and were almost identical in weight and "feel", I'm not sure how different it is across other brands though.

The TPS is a really simple sensor though, it's job is basically to relay resistance back to the EEC and tell it "hey I'm at 0 degrees now" or "now I'm starting to open greater than 0 degrees". The TPS and IAC work together, once the TPS and the butterfly valve begin to open, the message relayed from the EEC tells the IAC to begin to close.

The TPS is really easy to take out, just make sure you have good Torx bits and some PB-blaster. If it gets too tight and you think you'll snap the bolts, remove the TB and do it on the bench, don't risk shearing the bolt inside the housing otherwise you'll have to remove the TB anyway to tap-drill it out.

Also before you start it up after the sensor change, it's usually common practice to discharge the capacitors in the electrical system. This will not only clear the code from the computer for a "fresh-slate", but it will give your computer a chance to re-learn the new sensors in the system for the first 50 start cycles. You can do this by disconnecting the battery and letting it sit over night, or taking off both + and - terminals and touching them together. This is optional however of you think you need it. I had to do this when I changed out the IAC, TPS, CPS, MAP, and 02 sensor to pass NJ emissions last year lol.

Help please!! These sensors line up to mount and everything.. but they look nothing alike... do i have the right sensor? Is the duralast sensor missing a part?

(Duralast on the right)



(Duralast on the left)
05-27-2013 10:00 PM
petercass88
Quote:
Originally Posted by Defcon 1 View Post
Yeah man and if it doesn't fix it, AutoZone is real good about returning stuff lol
Also very good to know!
05-27-2013 05:14 PM
Defcon 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by petercass88 View Post
Thank you for the info! I was roaming through rock auto but im not sure if I wanna go cheap on sensors. I will give duralast a try and do it right
Yeah man and if it doesn't fix it, AutoZone is real good about returning stuff lol
05-27-2013 02:58 PM
petercass88 Thank you for the info! I was roaming through rock auto but im not sure if I wanna go cheap on sensors. I will give duralast a try and do it right
05-27-2013 01:31 PM
Defcon 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by petercass88 View Post
Any advice on which brands to get for the TPS and O2 sensor?
I went with Duralast for my sensors when I replaced them, they seemed pretty comparable to the OEM ones and were almost identical in weight and "feel", I'm not sure how different it is across other brands though.

The TPS is a really simple sensor though, it's job is basically to relay resistance back to the EEC and tell it "hey I'm at 0 degrees now" or "now I'm starting to open greater than 0 degrees". The TPS and IAC work together, once the TPS and the butterfly valve begin to open, the message relayed from the EEC tells the IAC to begin to close.

The TPS is really easy to take out, just make sure you have good Torx bits and some PB-blaster. If it gets too tight and you think you'll snap the bolts, remove the TB and do it on the bench, don't risk shearing the bolt inside the housing otherwise you'll have to remove the TB anyway to tap-drill it out.

Also before you start it up after the sensor change, it's usually common practice to discharge the capacitors in the electrical system. This will not only clear the code from the computer for a "fresh-slate", but it will give your computer a chance to re-learn the new sensors in the system for the first 50 start cycles. You can do this by disconnecting the battery and letting it sit over night, or taking off both + and - terminals and touching them together. This is optional however of you think you need it. I had to do this when I changed out the IAC, TPS, CPS, MAP, and 02 sensor to pass NJ emissions last year lol.
05-27-2013 12:25 PM
petercass88 Any advice on which brands to get for the TPS and O2 sensor?
05-27-2013 02:39 AM
Defcon 1
Quote:
Originally Posted by petercass88 View Post
Any advice on where to start to correct the throttle position sensor code? The O2 sensor is an easy swap. I will try to find my exhaust leak while im at it.
The best way is to swap it out with a new one and see if that problem goes away. Other than that, if you have an ohm-meter you could test the wiring, but that's a lot of work compared to removing and replacing it.
05-26-2013 07:08 PM
petercass88 Any advice on where to start to correct the throttle position sensor code? The O2 sensor is an easy swap. I will try to find my exhaust leak while im at it.
05-25-2013 02:17 PM
AllMudd
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyx28 View Post

OK, so spacer is a waste of money but bigger throttle body is beneficial? I was gonna go to the junk yard and see if I can find one. Cherokee or 6 cylinder jeep will work as long as its the 4 bolt pattern, right?
The TB spacer helps with air starting to spin as it enters the intake manifold and down to the valve. Yes they help just they are not that noticeable on a 4cyl. The TB from a 4.0 will work you just have to swap over the sensors from your 2.5 TB.
05-25-2013 02:03 PM
jeremyx28
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllMudd View Post

No just the TB spacer
OK, so spacer is a waste of money but bigger throttle body is beneficial? I was gonna go to the junk yard and see if I can find one. Cherokee or 6 cylinder jeep will work as long as its the 4 bolt pattern, right?
05-25-2013 12:38 PM
petercass88 Sounds like 24 and 51 are the ones I have to dig into?
05-25-2013 12:13 PM
AllMudd
Quote:
Originally Posted by petercass88 View Post
it pulled 4 codes... yikes:
12
33
24
51
55

12 Battery disconnect

24 Throttle position sensor voltage too high or too low

33 Air conditioning clutch relay circuit

51 O2S signal stays below center (lean)

55 Completion of diagnostic code display
05-25-2013 12:06 PM
AllMudd
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeremyx28 View Post
Not trying to hijack this thread but I have a related question that dosent warrant starting a new one. I was going to, eventually looking into upgrading to a bigger throttle body myself.....now people are taking them off? Should I just save my money?
No just the TB spacer
05-25-2013 11:53 AM
jeremyx28 Not trying to hijack this thread but I have a related question that dosent warrant starting a new one. I was going to, eventually looking into upgrading to a bigger throttle body myself.....now people are taking them off? Should I just save my money?
05-25-2013 11:39 AM
petercass88 it pulled 4 codes... yikes:
12
33
24
51
55
05-25-2013 11:02 AM
AllMudd
Quote:
Originally Posted by petercass88 View Post

The issue that I have is when you put your foot to the floor it stumbles for a second and then the check engine light comes on and it carries on the way it was. The people at Jeepers Den said to pull it off because it does more harm than good and is worthless. It isn't meant to be there in other words... Maybe I have a different issue (possibly a bad O2 sensor?) They said only change I should make is put headers on it if I decide to go about fixing my exhaust leak (which i do plan on doing)
I had an issue close to this years ago. I replaced my plugs, wires, cap and rotor with not change. Then I looked into it further and replaced the stock coil with a MSD coil and it went away. For the codes tho I'm not sure, I'm waiting to see what you post.
05-25-2013 10:09 AM
petercass88 Let me see if i can pull the codes. As far as power goes I love the 4 banger! I yanked a big ram charger mud truck out of the mud in 4-low (has terralow 4 to 1 gears... not exactly sure what that means but in 3rd gear at idle someone can lightly jog next to me lol)

I have no problems with idle, once it warms up it idles around 500 RPM and EXTREMELY smooth for what i would expect out of a 4 banger idling so low. It is only when you pedal to the metal that i has a hiccup. I will pull the codes and list them here.

I know I wont be taking it back there again, they seemed knowledgeable and had nothing but aftermarket rigs out front but DANG they were expensive!!! Replacing the seals on the front D60 cost me 315 bucks... Besides, I bought this jeep because I absolutely love Jeeps and wanted an older one that I can try to do MOST of the work myself on.

If the header would mess with my exhaust note... screw that! I love the sound of the 4 banger, it sounds really throaty and mean. (aside from my exhaust leak)

Unless the engine goes completely, I have no plans on swapping it out. It supposedly has 4.88 gears in the D60s but I still cant make use of 5th gear and struggle to break 65 MPH in 4th. Should I look at higher gears or is my 4 banger having issues? (i am running 33 x 12.5 BFG ATs
05-25-2013 07:22 AM
0III0forlife The stumbling isnt coming from the throttle body spacer. You have some other issue that is causing it.

Taking the spacer off just because it isnt supposed to be there? What about the Dana 60 front end? It definately isnt supposed to be there. If thats what you really have, running 1-ton running gear (Dana 60) is an excellent mod, but almost unheard of when the powerhouse is a 4 popper.

And a header for a 4cyl? Seriously, thats almost like an insult to the jeep community. Stick with a stock style manifold, no sense in getting your entire neighborhood laughing at you since the big jeep on tons will sound like you farting in a tin can, if you put a header on it...lol
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