|01-18-2015 10:44 PM|
Got the oil pan back in place tonight. When I was going to refill the oil I noticed that the valve covers were on the wrong sides so I got them swapped around.
A little sneak peak at my custom pitman arm project.
|01-12-2015 03:15 PM|
|daddyjeep||Not a problem. You just might get more responses if you start a new thread.|
|01-12-2015 01:31 PM|
was reading yours and hit hit "post new reply" and thought it was "new post" as in the main thread... sorry!
|01-12-2015 01:02 PM|
Um, Schwag....Not sure what this has to do with my build.
Since you asked though, does your light say "4wd" or "4lo". I can't remember, but I believe there is only 1 light and it is turned on by the CAD. Also not sure if there would be separate vacuum lines for 4-high and 4-low, but worth looking in to.
|01-12-2015 11:39 AM|
ok - so my 4wd light is kicking on when i am in 4lo. its not going on when i am on 4hi (i am 99% sure high is still engaging)
i believe it is the same bulb, how do i figure out what's going on?
|01-12-2015 10:31 AM|
|01-12-2015 12:40 AM|
|charleybrwn13||I have to re-organize every so often when I get to the point that I'm searching for wrenches more than I'm wrenching.|
|01-11-2015 06:48 PM|
Spent a couple hours in the shop tonight. Didn't get anything done on the Jeep, but am working on getting better organized. Got my new work bench built finally.
Definitely need to start spending more time down there.
|12-28-2014 03:04 PM|
I was cleaning up pictures on my phone and found this one and thought it was cool.
|12-23-2014 03:24 PM|
Oh, sweet. Good news.
Sorry if I missed that.
|12-23-2014 01:14 PM|
I appreciate the comments Whisky, but she is running fine now. The issue was the computer.
I did not the know the injectors were failure prone, but I did know that the 5.0 injectors were a common upgrade and may go that route at some point for a little more power.
|12-18-2014 10:12 AM|
|whiskeywiz||Wait a second, you put a Cherokee engine in there. Bro, those injectors are failure prone. You drive them for a little bit, shut it down and it won't restart. The injectors overheat or something. I'm not the expert, my buddy has one. He will drive it 10min to the store and it won't start back up when he comes out. He said it's the injectors and it's a known issue. The 5.0 injectors are one option for a common fix.|
|12-17-2014 11:29 PM|
Relating a couple of your issues to similar ones that I had:
On my 4.2L engine a couple of the head bolts need thread sealant on them because the bottom on the bolt cavity is hollow. In my case, I originally read "thread sealant" to mean thread locker. Well that didn't work and I wound up getting coolant in places it wasn't supposed to be and had to redo the job with thread sealant. A simple fix if it is the issue. You can pull one head bolt out at a time, just one though.
With the running for a minute then dying - when I did my fuel injection conversion I had the wiring laying all over the engine just to see if it would fire before I tailored the harness to exact length. Well the injector wires were laying near the sparkplug wires and they were picking up the interference and voltage spiking the injectors. Your engine bay looks clean and organized, but maybe some wiring needs to be isolated.
Does your system have an ICM? Mounted inside the distributor on a heat sink? That can be taken to Autozone for multiple bench tests. A single test will not indicate accurately. That wiring is also very sensitive, (should be twisted together and isolated). I was actually measuring the distance in inches that the ICM wires were away from the plug wires. Went from 4" to 9" to 12" before my issues cleared out!
For a while my system would run, shutdown and not restart. The plugs were fouled. At one point it was oil on the plugs and the valve seals were replaced. Then it was fuel on the plugs and the mixture was leaned out in the chip. Check out your plugs when it dies. A leaking valve cover, non-functioning PCV, wrong plugs, etc...
Also, I realize that your EFI is native to the engine that it is on, but I had to check voltages on each pin out of the ECM with key on before going to start position - make sure all the voltages were correct.
Just some suggestions that I learned the hard way. Probably just issues that I had, but hopefully the brainstorming sparks the answer.
Are you taking that Jeep to the monster truck jam? That thing is insane! Nice job.
I see you had/have the same orange plastic airline that I have. I HATE that thing in the cold! Can't wait to get rid of it. Lol.
Coolant temperature sensor. Check that too. After running for 10 minutes it should be near op. temp. If the CTS is faulty its going to tell the ECM that the engine is cold and dump too much fuel - fouling the plugs - no fire.
Fresh gas in the tank?
|11-27-2014 09:10 PM|
|YJMike92||I guess now would be the time to replace the tube if you had to. Probably easier to get it out with the pan off.|
|11-26-2014 11:57 PM|
|daddyjeep||The problem is definitely in the tube itself. I'm going to try and smooth the end of the stick a little more. I probably pushed a burr in the side of the tube and it is now causing the stick to hang up.|
|11-26-2014 11:45 PM|
|YJMike92||Could the dipstick tube be bent or kinked some how causing a problem? I guess even with the pan off it is still not going in?|
|11-26-2014 11:35 PM|
|daddyjeep||That's a good thought with the pressure tester. The dip stick is out of a different 5.2 out of a 96 GC. I also compared it to a couple of dodge 5.2's and they were all the same.|
|11-26-2014 10:44 PM|
|YJMike92||Could it be possible that is not your original dip stick?|
|11-26-2014 10:41 PM|
|YJMike92||If you have access to a radiator pressure tester, you could pressurize the system while the pan is off and see if any water shows up internally.|
|11-26-2014 12:14 PM|
|11-26-2014 08:53 AM|
If it is condensation it will be clear water. Assuming you have antifreeze in the cooling system you should be able to tell from the color.
Sorry, I didn't go back to read the full thread, which engine are you using and having the dipstick issue with? I know on my SBC there was a tube pressed into the block that I originally forgot about and my dipstick did the same thing as you are describing.
|11-25-2014 10:46 PM|
Well I dropped the oil pan tonight and there is very little sign of water in there. See attached pic. I think I need to run it some more and see what I have.
Thoughts? Could this be condensation?
Still cant figure out why I am having so much trouble with the dipstick. Can't see any obstruction from either end.
|11-24-2014 10:09 PM|
|daddyjeep||Yea...I should have known when they lost two head bolts and just put grade 5 bolts in their place. The freeze plug on the back of the block was leaking slightly too, but seems to have stopped.|
|11-24-2014 08:56 PM|
|YJMike92||Bummer about coolant in the oil. I hope it's not serious. I will admit I cringed at the thought of the Vo-Tech rebuilding your motor. Thought to myself you might be better off with out a rebuild. I have enjoyed your build, and again I hope it's not serious.|
|11-23-2014 10:26 PM|
I've been slowly working away at my list. I suppose I should post my list. Anyway, tranny lines repaired, power steering line replaced, electric fan temporarily wired, and new computer installed. It finally starts and runs.
I'm going to wire the fan into one of the unused relays in the PDC instead of the extra relay.
Now with the bad news. The power steering reservoir in leaking horribly. It gets worse...I have coolant in the oil. My dipstick isn't going all the way into the pan so it is possible that I have a little condensation in the tube, but it really doesn't look like i'll be that lucky. I need to drain the oil and see what I have going on. Then pull the pan to figure out my dipstick issue.
I thought I was almost there, but looks like a bit of a set back instead.
|11-06-2014 08:01 PM|
|Wombat Ranger||Hmm okay thank you. I will have to be careful with my wheel choice if mine end up under my rig, I can't be any wider than about 79", 76-7 would be better.|
|11-06-2014 07:13 PM|
|daddyjeep||It is right about 80", as best I can measure by myself. 35 x 12.50 on 10" wheel with 3.5" backspacing.|
|11-05-2014 08:05 PM|
|Wombat Ranger||You are running 1/2 ton ford hp44/9" axles right? I saw you mention that in another thread. What is your overal width with your wheels/tires on it?|
|10-27-2014 07:42 PM|
Some little updates over the weekend.
After some gussets
Some brake line brackets i'm too cheap to buy them so I threw these together.
A little cardboard teaser of my new upper front shock mounts. I need a little more than 3" of up travel.
|10-27-2014 12:58 AM|
|Tx 91 YJ||
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