|06-09-2013 01:15 PM|
|06-09-2013 01:08 PM|
OP - You said u r getting some QDs - If u plan on ever running with then disco'd on the trails, then I'm almost positive you'll need longer brake lines.
The big question is - What's ur budget??? If money is a lil tighter try and do some research so u get something u can b happy with now but also build on in the future when u get more cash.
Good luck in your search. There are some knowledgeable experts on this forum but I think sometimes they get tired of answering the usual "lift advice" question. So get on a real computer and try searching this forum and you'll find a lot of asked and answered lift questions. The phone app sucks for searching.
|06-09-2013 12:52 PM|
|Gary2||Problem with most kits are you will pay for some parts twice . Ya pay once when you buy the kit and then when you buy better parts to upgrade a lot of the parts that came with the kit as you get more experience. Buy the parts you see people upgrading to from the get go and save money .|
|06-09-2013 09:10 AM|
As you can see you have plenty of options when it comes to lifting your Jeep and their are plenty of opinions to go along with it. What really matters is your goals, budget and sense of urgency.
I just did a 3" Zone lift--
It comes with shocks, coils, links, and transfer case drop.
My steering stabilizer was shot and I opted for the adjustable front track bar by Rubicon Express to avoid drilling.
I would suggest you start very similar to this. You will learn a ton about your Jeep and the install is bolt on and straight forward.
Than drive it for a 100 miles and so and make adjustments.
All the advice above is valid and you may opt to change the control arms, install SYE, etc but this will get you started.
Zone sells a kit that is 3 inches of suspension lift and 1.25 of body lift.
I started with just the suspension but will soon add the body.
|06-08-2013 10:03 PM|
|Renagade119||So what you're saying is get a 2.5" suspension lift and a 1.25" body lift and lower front control arms?|
|06-08-2013 09:58 PM|
|Gary2||what I said still applies as in reality you are only talking a half inch difference . Just buy a set of 2.5" springs which is about all Rough Country makes that I would recommend buying " just " their springs. good prices on them on Ebay . You can do a2" spring and a 1.25 Body lift and be ahead of the game in a number of ways . the BL can be installed in less than an hour and has NO draw backs and opens the door for many other options in the future and you have effected your steering and driveline even less with a 2" suspension.The lower front control arms are something I would recommend if you were not even lifting it .|
|06-08-2013 09:32 PM|
|Renagade119||Hahaha Ive now decided I can get a 2.5" at a lower price and without a headache. Does this stuff still apply?|
|06-08-2013 09:28 PM|
The control arms are not a have to have item BUT , My first set were adjustable lower fronts and the difference they made just in steering alone on the highway was worth the price . I did not buy any second rate arms but you do get what you pay for in control arms so think Metalcloak or Savvy arms. Don't base what you buy on theory that you don't off road that hard . The good parts also make a noticeable difference on the road also plus in longevity . lower fronts will also allow you to set your caster perfectly and correct caster which makes for a better driving rig on the road.
3" BDS springs are very good. The problem seems to be the rear give you quite a bit more than 3" so some have been requesting 2" rear springs (at no additional cost ) and it comes out level . Being a little lower in the rear helps your rear driveshaft out also . I can almost guarantee with that combo you can install a 1" JKS budget Motor mount lift to help rear driveline. If it don't completely eliminate and driveline vibes adding a couple washers to lower your transfer case skid to lower it slightly will. Make sure to use a good rear track bar mount extension the run from the bottom of the existing mount not the cheap little OME one that cracks , get the full length one made by many manufacturers. Front track bars are important . Not many will clear an aftermarket diff cover other than the OE bar . Currie makes an HD model that has good clearance but still not as good as the oe clearance wise . I use a stock cover and a JKS with a different Johnny Joint installed on the frame end and a poly bushing on the axle end to make sure I have no movement. For me its Bilstein 5100 shock but their are a number of good choices .I would not buy a kit from any one brand as no one brand makes the best of each component . Buy the parts you want individually and get all good parts the first time
|06-08-2013 09:26 PM|
|Los57||If you crawl under the front of your Jeep you'll see the track bar right in front of the axle. It connects to a bracket (mounted on the axle) on the left side and to the frame body on the right side. A lift increases the distance between the axle & frame, thus increasing the distance between these two connection points. So, you either drill a new hole in the bracket that's mounted to the axle, or you buy a track bar that's adjustable in length.|
|06-08-2013 09:24 PM|
|Renagade119||Oh dear Jesus. I'm starting to think I'm over my head. I don't want to have to remove my transfer case and drive shaft in my driveway.|
|06-08-2013 09:20 PM|
For a 3" lift, I would recommend a CV drive shaft and if you don't have a Rubi, the SYE that will be needed too. I know first time lifters hate hearing that one. You can get by with a 1" mml and a slight drop of the TC with washers, but it won't be as smooth as the SYE/CV. I drove for almost 2 years with a 3" suspension, 1" mml and a 3/8" drop of the TC thinking I was good. I didn't realize that I still had vibes until I installed the SYE/CV. Of course, with the SYE/CV, you'll also need adjustable uppers and the only ones I'd ever recommend would be those that use JJs or the MC DuroFlex joints. I never did anything with my trackbars front or rear. My axles shift enough for me to worry about until I went to a 4" lift.
With stock arms up front, your brake lines should be fine. If not, you can relocate the bolt hole about an inch lower.
|06-08-2013 09:13 PM|
|Renagade119||Would you explain to me what purpose "adjustable" track bars would serve? And if it would be worth me purchasing please?|
|06-08-2013 09:07 PM|
|Los57||I don't believe the control arms are necessary for a modest lift nor are new brake lines. My Zone kit came with a bracket for relocating the rear track bar connection, so I didn't have to get a new one. In order to avoid drilling the front bracket for relocating the front track bar connection I opted to get an adjustable one from Metalcloak. I don't know how much BDS is charging for the front but there are lots of options to choose from if you shop around. Good luck.|
|06-08-2013 08:37 PM|
3" Suspension Lift Necessities
So Im looking into getting a 3" BDS suspenion lift for my 06 TJ. The difference in part options available between the 2" and 3" I find kind of troubling so Im looking for a little guidance. I obviously need the springs and shocks, for shocks Im planning on Fox Shocks 2.0 Series shocks and Im getting quick disco sbl's. They list options for control arms, which I dont think I need (please correct me if Im wrong) brake lines, which I dont think I need (again, please correct me if Im wrong) and front and rear track bar, which Im considering getting, please give me a little guidance. So please give me your feedback on each of these items as this will effect my decision in purchasing this kit